On Tuesday, January 2, 2018 at 4:28:44 PM UTC-5, John H wrote:
On Tue, 02 Jan 2018 16:07:13 -0500, wrote:

On Tue, 02 Jan 2018 12:47:56 -0500, John H
wrote:

On Tue, 2 Jan 2018 09:45:49 -0500, "Mr. Luddite" wrote:

On 1/2/2018 8:31 AM, John H wrote:

A friend reported it was so cold this morning that he actually saw a liberal with his hands in his
own pockets!

Pushing 12F right now.


A regular heat wave. I'll take it.

Eyeing this potential coastal storm for Thurs - Fri.
Might luck out and have it go too far out to sea. Otherwise ...

Only problem is that after it passes, the cold returns with overnight
lows predicted to be minus 8 or so. That's temp, not wind chill.

This has been one of the coldest December/January months I can remember
having for a long time. Soon will break a 100 year record for temps
remaining below 20 (F). For the past week the daytime temps haven't
even got close to 20, staying in the low to mid teens at best. 0
degrees yesterday morning. This morning it actually warmed up to 3 degrees.

Remote starter getting a workout! :-)


My remote starter, which has been working just fine for years, decided to go haywire. The truck
starts, runs about three seconds and dies. A 'check engine' light showed up about two weeks ago, and
I've not yet run the diagnostics. Maybe they are related.

That could be a bad sensor. It runs in "open cycle" when it first
starts then switches to "closed cycle" where the ECU controls the
emissions and a bad O2 sensor or MAF sensor can screw up the mix
enough so it stalls at idle.

If I start it with the key in the ignition, there's no problem at all. I've had an MAF sensor go
bad. That affects the running of the truck. Don't think that's the problem, or at least I hope not.
Those damn sensors are not cheap.

If you think about it, the remote starter has to tell the vehicle that your foot is on the brake with the "key" in the ignition and in the "start" position, then the "run" position to start it and keep it running. I would think it's done with software control and data these days, but if it's still done with relays simulating sensor activation, I could see the "run" relay being bad.

Be aware that your code scanner does engine codes, but there's a more advanced scanner that the dealership (and some indies) have that can also scan chassis codes. They are not standard codes but are specific to each manufacturer.

When the Corvette's braking ECM died, my scanner told me almost nothing (the dash info center told me more!). The indie shop had the GM scanner, and in less than two minutes told me exactly what was wrong.