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[email protected] gfretwell@aol.com is offline
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First recorded activity by BoatBanter: Jul 2007
Posts: 36,387
Default YouTube - Building the Workboat Skiff - Episode 36

On Sat, 15 Apr 2017 08:28:47 -0400,
wrote:

On Sat, 15 Apr 2017 07:33:18 -0400, "Mr. Luddite"
wrote:

On 4/14/2017 9:55 PM, True North wrote:
Y'all sure are a weak wristed bunch.
I only use half inch drills but drill smaller holes and then enlarge, especially when using spade bits.
When drilling holes through framing lumber I use my long auger type bits...like the electricians do.



In my case with the Milwaukee drill, that's exactly what I was doing
except it had a 1/2 inch chuck. I was using an auger bit. It just
jammed in one of the holes and the drill spun around and nearly broke my
wrist.


===

I have one of those half inch Milwaukee hammer drills also. Great
tool but an awesome amount of torque transmitted back when, not if, it
jams up. I had it happen recently when drilling my concrete pool deck
with a 1 1/8 masonary bit. My problem was not fully tightening the
forward handle, allowing the whole tool to totate inside the
attachment ring. I was lucky not to get banged up worse than I did.


I have an assortment of 1/2" drills I have accumulated over the years.
Some, like the hammer drills go pretty fast. I also have two that go
slow but will not stall. Those are the ones I use with ship augers.
Wrists have little to do with it. If that drill jams, it will lift me
off the ground. You really have to stand in a way that you can absorb
a half revolution or more that it turns after you get off the trigger.