wrote:
On Thu, 15 May 2014 05:00:06 -0700 (PDT), True North
wrote:

My new boat started to develop blisters under the gunnel paint where the cover snaps are attached.
After the 2nd season of use, I brought this to the attention of the dealer and Legend boats up in Ontario.
This was last October and the manufacturer still hasn't come up with a plan to remedy the problem.
I did the usual Google research and sent the links to the service manager at my dealer.

Guy at Legend said he didn't want to talk directly with me and problem should be handled through dealer.
They also wanted me to tow the boat back to the dealer ( 180 miles round trip ) so techs could check for stray current, which I did while down anyway for winter servicing. No stray current from my motor.
They also suggested that it could be a stray current problem at the docks I frequent or stray current at local, marinas.
I explained that most of the small boat launches I use have no electrical services and anyway, I'm only there long enough to get my trailer and retrieve the boat.
Anyway I just contacted the General Manager of the dealership (member of family who owns the business) who acted as my salesman two years ago when I showed up while the sales staff were away at a boat show.
He says he will look into problem.

From what I read, we have to remove the snaps that screw directly into the painted aluminum gunnel, sand, prime and paint affected areas.
Then we have to find a suitable gasket or washer to isolate the snap and the aluminum and even coat the shafts of the attaching screw with liquid electrical tape or silicone to isolate them as possible.

My question is, can those self tapping screws be backed out of the aluminum and then be re-installed?
I broke two bits trying with a hand screwdriver last fall, so I google up higher rated impact type bits like the Makita Gold
That should hold up in my corded drill/driver.
Anyone ever attempt this.
Are these stainless or are they chrome over brass?
(scratch one and see)

Brass and aluminum are a battery and they will blow holes in the
aluminum in the presence of an electrolyte like salt water
http://gfretwell.com/ftp/aluminum%20corrosion.jpg
Manufacturers do seem to get away with it on a fresh water only boat.

Stainless is better but still not totally immune.
If you use stainless, put some TefGel between them and use only 316
stainless parts.
Here's one chart. The closer there are, the better they work with each
other:

http://www.corrosionist.com/galvanic...sion_chart.htm