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kayak air bags & kit
This is a fairly obvious question, but I could not find much info on
the subject. I have a dagger RPM, and I want to get air bags for it. However, I'd like to keep room to put a dry bag (in the stern, because the bow is inaccessible due to bulkhead footrests). My plan was to put 1 bow and 1 stern air bags (on opposite sides, to keep it flat), leaving 1 stern "bay" for kit. Does that seem a resaonable ? or do you really need to go for 2 font / 2 back air bags ? Cheers, MB |
kayak air bags & kit
It doesn't matter where you put the air bags in your boat, it will sit level
in the water untill you swim and it fills with water. I have an I:3 221 and only have 1 stern air bag as it has very little room and when carrying a drink, splits and a throw line it gets a bit cramped, there is a solution, just fit stern air bags and deflate them when you want to put kit in, then blow them back up again. Not sure on the foot plate situ with the RPM as I haven't paddled one for ages but if you wanted you could put a small one infront of it if you so wish. Hope this helps! Mike "MB" wrote in message oups.com... This is a fairly obvious question, but I could not find much info on the subject. I have a dagger RPM, and I want to get air bags for it. However, I'd like to keep room to put a dry bag (in the stern, because the bow is inaccessible due to bulkhead footrests). My plan was to put 1 bow and 1 stern air bags (on opposite sides, to keep it flat), leaving 1 stern "bay" for kit. Does that seem a resaonable ? or do you really need to go for 2 font / 2 back air bags ? Cheers, MB |
kayak air bags & kit
"MB" wrote in message oups.com... This is a fairly obvious question, but I could not find much info on the subject. I have a dagger RPM, and I want to get air bags for it. However, I'd like to keep room to put a dry bag (in the stern, because the bow is inaccessible due to bulkhead footrests). My plan was to put 1 bow and 1 stern air bags (on opposite sides, to keep it flat), leaving 1 stern "bay" for kit. Does that seem a resaonable ? or do you really need to go for 2 font / 2 back air bags ? We fit two rear and deflate them to store kit. Kit is also carried in airtight bags so acts as bouyancy too. You only need airbags when you get swamped/ go for a swim. Until then all they doo is take up space. Once you go for a swim air bags make recovery of the boat easier (generally) - esp in X rescues, particularly if the rescuer is small, or the rescuer's boat is small. Having one airbag at one side at the rear may complicate things - I must try this next time we are messing about and see if it makes any difference. I suppose, like most things, there will be many different options :-) Ewan Scott |
kayak air bags & kit
Ewan Scott wrote: You only need airbags when you get swamped/ go for a swim. Until then all they doo is take up space. True. That's all they do when you swim, too, of course. Steve |
kayak air bags & kit
Thanks for the input.
Yes I realise that the bags are only any use when you go swimming, but surely having a sensible distribution of bouyancy is helpful for recovery. If you put 2 bags front and back on the same side (the RPM has split front and back), the boat would float go on it's side when full of water, which would be a pain to recover... same goes for all-at-the-front or all-at-the-back options (although inherent buoyancy should prevent the nose or stern (whichever doesn't have the bags) sinking altogether) ? if it wasn't December, I'd go out and try it ! Given the cost of air bags, I'm going to investigate recycling plastic milk bottles for the back. A combination of 2, 4 and 6 pint sizes should fill the space quite nicely at the back... might rattle though. The front will be more tricky, cause it needs to go past the foot rests flat. MB |
kayak air bags & kit
"cramersec" wrote in message oups.com... Ewan Scott wrote: You only need airbags when you get swamped/ go for a swim. Until then all they doo is take up space. True. That's all they do when you swim, too, of course. I've heard folks claim that having airbags helps them in white water by giving added bouyancy. I don't try to explain that they don't make any difference because it is too counter such myths. Physics should really be manadatory at school :-) Ewan Scott |
kayak air bags & kit
"MB" wrote in message oups.com... Thanks for the input. Yes I realise that the bags are only any use when you go swimming, but surely having a sensible distribution of bouyancy is helpful for recovery. If you put 2 bags front and back on the same side (the RPM has split front and back), the boat would float go on it's side when full of water, which would be a pain to recover... same goes for all-at-the-front or all-at-the-back options (although inherent buoyancy should prevent the nose or stern (whichever doesn't have the bags) sinking altogether) ? if it wasn't December, I'd go out and try it ! Given the cost of air bags, I'm going to investigate recycling plastic milk bottles for the back. A combination of 2, 4 and 6 pint sizes should fill the space quite nicely at the back... might rattle though. The front will be more tricky, cause it needs to go past the foot rests flat. Milk bottles might be cheaper but they are less flexible. Don't know what sort of kayak you have, or where you paddle, but let's say you have £500 worth of kit in your boat. You are paddling down a river, you are somewhere where egress from the river is difficult, you go for a swim, your boat swamps, your milk bottles dislodge (even if tied in) and you then have a great struggle to recover self and boat. Or, fit £50 quid worth of heavy duty airbags and at least your boat will be a/ more visible when swamped, b/ easier to empty/ rescue, and your kit will still usually be secure in your boat. BTW, I'd also add that it false economy to buy cheap poly airbags. Better to spend a little and get heavy duty ones that are tear resistant. OTOH, milk bottles may be an excellent solution :-) Ewan Scott |
kayak air bags & kit
point taken.
It costs nothing to try, and it will be pretty obvious whether it is secure or not. If they can be secured, they will certainly provide a robust/heavy duty solution. |
kayak air bags & kit
"MB" wrote in message ups.com... point taken. It costs nothing to try, and it will be pretty obvious whether it is secure or not. If they can be secured, they will certainly provide a robust/heavy duty solution. I don't mean to sound dismissive. I'm involved with Scouts and as long as I've been involved I've come across adults who think that we can get away with second-hand wolly jumpers, welly boots, tin cans and string and my experience says that kids won't go with shoddy ideas any more. So when we kitted out we went for the best we could get money for. That included poly airbags all round. However, we are gradually changing to heavy duty bags as the poly ones get punctured. I've got nothing against folks who try "Heath Robinson" solutions, just that I'm not keen on them myself. Ewan Scott |
kayak air bags & kit
I've heard folks claim that having airbags helps them in white water by
giving added bouyancy. I don't try to explain that they don't make any difference because it is too counter such myths. Physics should really be manadatory at school :-) Ewan Scott I'll second the physics at school motion, if this was true I'd be paddling quite funny, what with my single sided air bag and splits in the other. I paid £13 for my motion research airbag and it's fine, taken a beating this season since sept (...ahem) and still isn't punctured. As for Milk cartons, they work till the boat fills with water, then they give up on life and either pop the lids off or go wondering down stream. The air bags on the same side sounds as if it might work, if it fills with a large quantity of water it's easier to pull it up from the side to let some water out, then lift it on it's end (the one with the airbags in so they displace the water) and drag it onto your deck to empty. If it's just displace water while it's being towed to the side then I'd place two at the rear as this is the most common place to put them (unless it's a creeker then I'd also have some infront of the foot plate. Maybe this will help with re-surfacing...... *cough*) Mike |
kayak air bags & kit
In message
"RuFf!!" wrote: I've heard folks claim that having airbags helps them in white water by giving added bouyancy. I don't try to explain that they don't make any difference because it is too counter such myths. Physics should really be manadatory at school :-) Ewan Scott I'll second the physics at school motion, if this was true I'd be paddling quite funny, what with my single sided air bag and splits in the other. I paid £13 for my motion research airbag and it's fine, taken a beating this season since sept (...ahem) and still isn't punctured. As for Milk cartons, they work till the boat fills with water, then they give up on life and either pop the lids off or go wondering down stream. The air bags on the same side sounds as if it might work, if it fills with a large quantity of water it's easier to pull it up from the side to let some water out, then lift it on it's end (the one with the airbags in so they displace the water) and drag it onto your deck to empty. If it's just displace water while it's being towed to the side then I'd place two at the rear as this is the most common place to put them (unless it's a creeker then I'd also have some infront of the foot plate. Maybe this will help with re-surfacing...... *cough*) And this might be a suitable point to repeat advice I've seen elsewhere - when rescuing a boat, i.e. deep water rescue, lift the heavier end first. By heavier in this context I mean the end which floats lowest. It's harder to do initially, but as it usually results from one end of the boat having airbags, then the water will run from the end being lifted, and cannot run into the other end. Thus the second part of the lift, onto your boat, becomes much easier. If you lift the airbagged end first, you then end up with the far end of the boat full of water, and it's very hard to get it past the balance point. Of course, drybags with kit in work as airbags too, just not so well. I find a good system is to put the airbags in the back, uninflated. The drybags go on top, then the airbags are inflated. This locks the drybags in, and holds them out of any water in the boat, so they are less likely to leak. It doesn't keep them dry when you're swimming of course, but that shouldn't last as long. Alan -- Alan Adams, from Northamptonshire http://www.nckc.org.uk/ |
kayak air bags & kit
And this might be a suitable point to repeat advice I've seen elsewhere - when rescuing a boat, i.e. deep water rescue, lift the heavier end first. By heavier in this context I mean the end which floats lowest. It's harder to do initially, but as it usually results from one end of the boat having airbags, then the water will run from the end being lifted, and cannot run into the other end. Thus the second part of the lift, onto your boat, becomes much easier. If you lift the airbagged end first, you then end up with the far end of the boat full of water, and it's very hard to get it past the balance point. On my CST (and subsequent rivers I've had to pull boats filled with water) It's easier to empty by lifting the side first then swing it over your deck. this reduces the lever effect the submerged boat has or yours and reduces the amount of stress you put your body under. alternatively if it's difficult to get the boat and swimmer out of the water on the bank then get them to drag their boat across your deck for you by using their legs on the hull of your boat then get them to hang on the end of the boat which will begin to empty, making it easy for you to finish it off and the swimmer has started to be warmed up again, takes their mind off of swimming. Mike |
kayak air bags & kit
"kids won't go with shoddy ideas any more"
True, and a bit sad also. You need stuff which is fit for purpose (which milk cartons may not be...different debate !!!), but I think it's sad that the only worthy option is "buy it fom the shop". Making your own solutions can be good fun, and just as effective (and testing the effectivness is important... but that's the same for bought goods, as highlighted by so many regarding the thin poly airbags). I'm also involved in scouting, and always impressed at how skilled some of these kids can get, and yet how little creativity many of them have. There _was_ life before GPS, Gore-Tex and cell phones, and it was just as (if not more) fun. My opinion anyway ! MB |
kayak air bags & kit
"As for Milk cartons, they work till the boat fills with water, then
they give up on life and either pop the lids off or go wondering down stream." Is that from experience Mike ??? I've tried popping the top off an empty milk carton by applying sudden pressure, and they don't fly off. + placed all together in a net, there's no way they'll ever get out, as they are larger than the gap when my back rest is in place (again the old physics thing kicks in !!!). I'm interested if you've tried this and it's been unsuccessfull. MB |
kayak air bags & kit
"MB" wrote in message oups.com... "As for Milk cartons, they work till the boat fills with water, then they give up on life and either pop the lids off or go wondering down stream." Is that from experience Mike ??? I've tried popping the top off an empty milk carton by applying sudden pressure, and they don't fly off. + placed all together in a net, there's no way they'll ever get out, as they are larger than the gap when my back rest is in place (again the old physics thing kicks in !!!). I'm interested if you've tried this and it's been unsuccessfull. MB I was unsuccessfull with the milk cartons in my I:3, got a tiny bit of a working in a hole, i swam out and the boat stayed in for a few seconds, some of the lids had popped off which allowed them to go off down stream at their own pace. That was in my earlier days of paddling so it'd work for me now as I don't swim (or at least not untill I really really have to) and I have to carry kit, which milk cartons will hinder I think. Mike |
kayak air bags & kit
MB wrote:
True, and a bit sad also. You need stuff which is fit for purpose (which milk cartons may not be...different debate !!!), but I think it's sad that the only worthy option is "buy it fom the shop". Making your own solutions can be good fun, and just as effective (and testing the effectivness is important... but that's the same for bought goods, as highlighted by so many regarding the thin poly airbags). A pal of mine who has /lots/ of Stars (up to 5 depending on discipline, and several disciplines) for both coaching and attainment, has been known to use Lilos from Lidls as effective canoe aitbags. And tested them thoroughly, before full on action and subsequently in anger. It's usually not that difficult to come up with quite acceptable home made options for all sorts of things. Including the boats themselves. Where home production generally fails to compete is turning out lots of identical things to a predicted standard, but that'snot generally necessary if it's just for your own use. Pete. -- Peter Clinch Medical Physics IT Officer Tel 44 1382 660111 ext. 33637 Univ. of Dundee, Ninewells Hospital Fax 44 1382 640177 Dundee DD1 9SY Scotland UK net http://www.dundee.ac.uk/~pjclinch/ |
kayak air bags & kit
thanks. useful input.
MB |
kayak air bags & kit
On e-bay at the moment there's a guy selling some airbags which double
as drysacks. I don't know how good they are, but it's an interesting idea. I've seenold lorry tyre inner-tubes used fairly successfully as diy airbags in the past. The difficulty is coping with the funny looks you get whilst standing with a kayak at the petrol station air hose! |
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