pack harness
 

I have a large sports bag that I would like to use as a canoe pack,
but it doesn't have shoulder straps so it would be hard to carry on a
long portage. I have considered using a packframe, but externals are
awkward in canoes.

I would like to make a harness with shoulder straps and a waist belt,
maybe even a tumpline to make it easier to carry. I'm thinking of
using webbing and ladder locks, and rivetting the straps wherever the
pieces join (I'm not very expert at sewing).

Has anyone made something like this before? Even if you haven't, I
would love to get some advice from do-it-yourself types about the
following:

type of webbing - nylon? canvas?

width of webbing - 1"? 1.5"

type of rivets - aluminum? brass? blind/pop type?

would it be better to sew?

Any advice is most welcome, and thanks.

Tedr

Take a good look at the NRS Paragon Pack
http://www.nrsweb.com/shop/product.a...33&deptid=1630
which is designed to do exactly what you want.

Having made several packs, i can saw that you can carry the weight
with 1" webbing. Sewing, even with multiple passes of carpet thread
will eventually work loose, so sew first, then rivet in the center,
and lock the thread with some glue. A tump is a good idea, but I
have had some trouble getting the length of the straps right, and
also, even with a pad, I have trouble keeping it in the right
location. Next time I'm going to sew in something like a beanie cap
into the tump that cannot easily slip off the forehead while packing.
Tom McCloud

On 12 Dec 2004 17:58:40 -0800, (Tedr)
wrote:

I have a large sports bag that I would like to use as a canoe pack,
but it doesn't have shoulder straps so it would be hard to carry on a
long portage. I have considered using a packframe, but externals are
awkward in canoes.

I would like to make a harness with shoulder straps and a waist belt,
maybe even a tumpline to make it easier to carry. I'm thinking of
using webbing and ladder locks, and rivetting the straps wherever the
pieces join (I'm not very expert at sewing).

Has anyone made something like this before? Even if you haven't, I
would love to get some advice from do-it-yourself types about the
following:

type of webbing - nylon? canvas?

width of webbing - 1"? 1.5"

type of rivets - aluminum? brass? blind/pop type?

would it be better to sew?

Any advice is most welcome, and thanks.

Tedr

On 12-Dec-2004, Tom McCloud wrote:

Sewing, even with multiple passes of carpet thread
will eventually work loose, so sew first, then rivet in the center,
and lock the thread with some glue.

Carpet thread is too heavy. Use a good quality polyester thread and
use a short stitch. A bar tack does wonders. No rivets required.
If you use carpet thread, you'll never get the seam tight and it
will work loose (unless you have an industrial machine made for that
thread weight and have it set for a lot of tension).


On 12 Dec 2004 17:58:40 -0800, (Tedr)
wrote:

type of webbing - nylon? canvas?

Nylon or polyester - the former is the most common. Canvas rots.

width of webbing - 1"? 1.5"

1" for most webbing. 1.5" to 2" if you want unpadded shoulder
straps. 1.5" for a tump.

type of rivets - aluminum? brass? blind/pop type?

would it be better to sew?

Sew it right and you won't need rivets - see above.

Buy the shoulder straps if you want padding. It's too much
work and too tough to sew if you want a really professional
looking padded strap. There are lots of replacement shoulder
straps sold and they aren't any pricier than doing it yourself
for the same quality materials.

Mike

Both padded shoulder straps and waist (hip) belts are available individually. I used to backpack with a friend who liked to unhook his waist belt occasionally and carry all the weight on his shoulders. I was just the opposite, I set up the shoulder straps on my pack so as to maximize the load on my hips. I was more comfortable and more stable over rough terrain that way. I suppose it depends on how much weight you are going to carry over what distances, as well as your personal preferences and budget, but a trio of padded straps might be worth considering.
"Michael Daly" wrote in message ...
On 12-Dec-2004, Tom McCloud wrote:

Sewing, even with multiple passes of carpet thread
will eventually work loose, so sew first, then rivet in the center,
and lock the thread with some glue.

Carpet thread is too heavy. Use a good quality polyester thread and
use a short stitch. A bar tack does wonders. No rivets required.
If you use carpet thread, you'll never get the seam tight and it
will work loose (unless you have an industrial machine made for that
thread weight and have it set for a lot of tension).


On 12 Dec 2004 17:58:40 -0800, (Tedr)
wrote:

type of webbing - nylon? canvas?

Nylon or polyester - the former is the most common. Canvas rots.

width of webbing - 1"? 1.5"

1" for most webbing. 1.5" to 2" if you want unpadded shoulder
straps. 1.5" for a tump.

type of rivets - aluminum? brass? blind/pop type?

would it be better to sew?

Sew it right and you won't need rivets - see above.

Buy the shoulder straps if you want padding. It's too much
work and too tough to sew if you want a really professional
looking padded strap. There are lots of replacement shoulder
straps sold and they aren't any pricier than doing it yourself
for the same quality materials.

Mike

On 13-Dec-2004, "Jim" wrote:

I suppose it depends on how much weight you are going to carry over
what distances, as well as your personal preferences and
budget, but a trio of padded straps might be worth considering.

For backpacks, I definitely agree that a waist belt is crucial.
However, for a big canoe pack, I find them next to useless.
When portaging with such a big pack, I can't stand straight anyway,
so the weight isn't transfered to the belt. A tump is more
useful in these conditions.

I'd agree it's worth considering depending on the size of the pack.

Mike

Thanks for the informed opinions. They are all very helpful.

That NRS harness is really cool. Mine will be pretty basic, but much
cheaper.

My pack bag is about 70 litres with a double-pull zipper from one end to
the other. (It's really just an old hockey equipment bag, but I think
it will work very well for this purpose.) The harness will be
completely removable, but I should be able to access the contents with
the harness on if necessary. I hope to be able to pack everything I
need for a weekend solo trip in that one bag. I'll still need to do the
portage twice, once for the canoe and paddles, once for the pack.

Tedr