newby question
 

What happens if the trim fails in the water. You couldn't pull the
boat out of the water without hitting the prop, right? How would you
get it out of the water?

-Robert

newby question
 

On Wed, 2 Apr 2008 15:52:51 -0700 (PDT), "Robert M. Gary"
wrote:

What happens if the trim fails in the water. You couldn't pull the
boat out of the water without hitting the prop, right? How would you
get it out of the water?

Marina - forklift or travel lift.

newby question
 

On Wed, 2 Apr 2008 15:52:51 -0700 (PDT), "Robert M. Gary"
wrote:

What happens if the trim fails in the water. You couldn't pull the
boat out of the water without hitting the prop, right? How would you
get it out of the water?

That's a good question.

The best way is to disconnect the trim ram and lift the outdrive up.
I've done this on outboard units when I've had trim motor problems.

You might have enough clearance with the boat on the trailer to pull
it up without having to disconnect the trim hydraulic ram - that might
be something to check next time you are at the ramp - that way you
would know.

However, other than disconnecting the ram, I can't think of a way to
do it if the drive is going to bump along the ramp.

newby question
 

"Robert M. Gary" wrote
What happens if the trim fails in the water. You couldn't pull the
boat out of the water without hitting the prop, right? How would you
get it out of the water?

That happened to me once. I found out after I got home that the problem was
a sticky reverse lockout switch which cleared up the next time I operated
the shift lever, but all I knew at the ramp was that I had no hydraulics.
Fortunately my trailer was such that the skeg was an inch or two off the
ground when fully lowered, so I pulled it up onto the ramp with the drive
still down, then disconnected the aft end of the cylinders and tied the
drive up with rope for the drive home. In a case where the drive has no
clearance, I suppose you could disconnect the trim cylinders in the water,
obviously with greater difficulty.

newby question
 

On Apr 2, 11:57*pm, wrote:
On Thu, 03 Apr 2008 00:15:26 GMT, Short Wave Sportfishing

wrote:
The best way is to disconnect the trim ram and lift the outdrive up.
I've done this on outboard units when I've had trim motor problems.

You carry the tools to do that on the boat?

I do. in either boat the 18' or the 23', is a fairly well supply of
tools, electrical wire, tape wire connectors, etc. in the big boat, I
have a spare alternator, too!

Not saying it's all necessary, but 'tis best to have and not need,
than to need and not have.

newby question
 

On Wed, 02 Apr 2008 23:57:53 -0500, wrote:

On Thu, 03 Apr 2008 00:15:26 GMT, Short Wave Sportfishing
wrote:

The best way is to disconnect the trim ram and lift the outdrive up.
I've done this on outboard units when I've had trim motor problems.

You carry the tools to do that on the boat?

All boaters should carry a basic set of tools and some electrical
tape.

Just in case 'ya know?

newby question
 

"Short Wave Sportfishing" wrote in message
...
On Wed, 02 Apr 2008 23:57:53 -0500, wrote:

On Thu, 03 Apr 2008 00:15:26 GMT, Short Wave Sportfishing
wrote:

The best way is to disconnect the trim ram and lift the outdrive up.
I've done this on outboard units when I've had trim motor problems.

You carry the tools to do that on the boat?

All boaters should carry a basic set of tools and some electrical
tape.

Just in case 'ya know?

You are assuming all boaters are familiar with tools.

newby question
 

On Thu, 3 Apr 2008 06:21:47 -0400, "Jim" wrote:


"Short Wave Sportfishing" wrote in message
.. .
On Wed, 02 Apr 2008 23:57:53 -0500, wrote:

On Thu, 03 Apr 2008 00:15:26 GMT, Short Wave Sportfishing
wrote:

The best way is to disconnect the trim ram and lift the outdrive up.
I've done this on outboard units when I've had trim motor problems.

You carry the tools to do that on the boat?

All boaters should carry a basic set of tools and some electrical
tape.

Just in case 'ya know?

You are assuming all boaters are familiar with tools.

You know, that is a good point.

Hadn't thought of that.

newby question
 

"Short Wave Sportfishing" wrote in message
...
On Wed, 02 Apr 2008 23:57:53 -0500, wrote:

On Thu, 03 Apr 2008 00:15:26 GMT, Short Wave Sportfishing
wrote:

The best way is to disconnect the trim ram and lift the outdrive up.
I've done this on outboard units when I've had trim motor problems.

You carry the tools to do that on the boat?

All boaters should carry a basic set of tools and some electrical
tape.

Just in case 'ya know?

No duct tape? Oh, I bet that's included in the "basic set of tools". 8-)

newby question
 

On Thu, 3 Apr 2008 07:18:04 -0400, "D.Duck" wrote:


"Short Wave Sportfishing" wrote in message
.. .
On Wed, 02 Apr 2008 23:57:53 -0500, wrote:

On Thu, 03 Apr 2008 00:15:26 GMT, Short Wave Sportfishing
wrote:

The best way is to disconnect the trim ram and lift the outdrive up.
I've done this on outboard units when I've had trim motor problems.

You carry the tools to do that on the boat?

All boaters should carry a basic set of tools and some electrical
tape.

Just in case 'ya know?

No duct tape? Oh, I bet that's included in the "basic set of tools". 8-)

Goes without saying - duct tape, 200 mph tape, gaffer's tape -
whatever, it's an essential part of any tool kit. :)

newby question
 

On Apr 2, 6:52*pm, "Robert M. Gary" wrote:
What happens if the trim fails in the water. You couldn't pull the
boat out of the water without hitting the prop, right? How would you
get it out of the water?

-Robert

Most have a pressure release valve you can open with a screwdriver,
raise the motor (or drive if an I/O) turn the screw back in and the
motor will stay up.

newby question
 

On Apr 3, 4:54*am, Short Wave Sportfishing
wrote:

Goes without saying - duct tape, 200 mph tape, gaffer's tape -
whatever, it's an essential part of any tool kit. *:)

And WD-40. If it's not moving it gets WD-40, if its moving and it
shouldn't it gets duck tape.

newby question
 

wrote in message
...
On Wed, 2 Apr 2008 21:03:30 -0700 (PDT), Tim
wrote:

You carry the tools to do that on the boat?

I do. in either boat the 18' or the 23', is a fairly well supply of
tools, electrical wire, tape wire connectors, etc. in the big boat, I
have a spare alternator, too!

Not saying it's all necessary, but 'tis best to have and not need,
than to need and not have.

The reason I ask is because I actually needed to make a tool to get
the lock pin out of the tilt/trim on my Merc and it was in the
driveway. I can't imagine doing this in the water. You better be able
to stand up and you are probably going to loser something

Unless I have something different in mind, all you need is a screwdriver.
Pop the black cap with a screw driver. Remove the E clip with the
screwdriver. Drive the shaft out with the screw driver hitting it with the
palm of your hand. If that doesn't make sense we are thinking of different
attachment methods.

newby question
 

On Thu, 03 Apr 2008 11:41:43 -0500, wrote:

On Wed, 2 Apr 2008 21:03:30 -0700 (PDT), Tim
wrote:

You carry the tools to do that on the boat?

I do. in either boat the 18' or the 23', is a fairly well supply of
tools, electrical wire, tape wire connectors, etc. in the big boat, I
have a spare alternator, too!

Not saying it's all necessary, but 'tis best to have and not need,
than to need and not have.

The reason I ask is because I actually needed to make a tool to get
the lock pin out of the tilt/trim on my Merc and it was in the
driveway. I can't imagine doing this in the water. You better be able
to stand up and you are probably going to loser something

Ok, I've got to ask.

Why the special tool and on what kind of engine?

newby question
 

On Thu, 3 Apr 2008 08:31:48 -0700 (PDT), "Robert M. Gary"
wrote:

And WD-40. If it's not moving it gets WD-40, if its moving and it
shouldn't it gets duck tape.

Although I always carry a can of WD40 it is highly overrated. PB
Blaster or AeroKroil are much better penetrating fluids, and
Corrosion-X or Boesheild T-9 are much better protectants.

newby question
 

On Apr 3, 4:32*am, Short Wave Sportfishing
wrote:
On Thu, 3 Apr 2008 06:21:47 -0400, "Jim" wrote:

"Short Wave Sportfishing" wrote in message
.. .
On Wed, 02 Apr 2008 23:57:53 -0500, wrote:

On Thu, 03 Apr 2008 00:15:26 GMT, Short Wave Sportfishing
wrote:

The best way is to disconnect the trim ram and lift the outdrive up.
I've done this on outboard units when I've had trim motor problems.

You carry the tools to do that on the boat?

All boaters should carry a basic set of tools and some electrical
tape.

Just in case 'ya know?

You are assuming all boaters are familiar with tools.

You know, that is a good point.

Hadn't thought of that.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

I'm with Tom. Good point!

newby question
 

On Apr 3, 6:35*am, wrote:
On Apr 2, 6:52*pm, "Robert M. Gary" wrote:

What happens if the trim fails in the water. You couldn't pull the
boat out of the water without hitting the prop, right? How would you
get it out of the water?

-Robert

Most have a pressure release valve you can open with a screwdriver,
raise the motor (or drive if an I/O) turn the screw back in and the
motor will stay up.

And that's great, that is, if you can get to it. Some boat mfj's love
to hide the pump in the most inconvenient places.

Been there, done that.

newby question
 

"Tim" wrote in message
...
On Apr 3, 4:32 am, Short Wave Sportfishing
wrote:
On Thu, 3 Apr 2008 06:21:47 -0400, "Jim" wrote:

"Short Wave Sportfishing" wrote in message
.. .
On Wed, 02 Apr 2008 23:57:53 -0500, wrote:

On Thu, 03 Apr 2008 00:15:26 GMT, Short Wave Sportfishing
wrote:

The best way is to disconnect the trim ram and lift the outdrive up.
I've done this on outboard units when I've had trim motor problems.

You carry the tools to do that on the boat?

All boaters should carry a basic set of tools and some electrical
tape.

Just in case 'ya know?

You are assuming all boaters are familiar with tools.

You know, that is a good point.

Hadn't thought of that.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

I'm with Tom. Good point!

But you may have a passenger and or a passerby who is familiar with the use
of tools. Also a voltmeter should be in that tool kit. I bought the one in
the boat at the 99 cent store. Works fine.

newby question
 

On Apr 3, 6:23*pm, wrote:
On Thu, 03 Apr 2008 16:03:01 GMT, Short Wave Sportfishing

wrote:
Ok, I've got to ask.

Why the special tool and on what kind of engine?

Merc outboards use a taper pin with a big flat head like a nail. You
are supposed to be able to knock it loose with a screwdriver and a
hammer but all that did was bend the pin. I ended up grinding
something like a little tie rod sepataror to break it loose.
Before that design (late 80s) you had to drive it out with a drift
punch. When you get the lock pin out you have to drive out the
(corroded in there) pin.
I certaily like loosening up the bleed screw a lot better.

It was tricky, but in the middle of the wabash river, years ago, I
changed out a prop and key on a Johnson while floating down stream.
wearing a ski jacket and being held close to the motor with a rope, I
made very sure nothing was dropped, and thank goodness, because we
didn't have any spare washers or jam nuts.

newby question
 

wrote in message
...
On Thu, 03 Apr 2008 16:03:01 GMT, Short Wave Sportfishing
wrote:

Ok, I've got to ask.

Why the special tool and on what kind of engine?

Merc outboards use a taper pin with a big flat head like a nail. You
are supposed to be able to knock it loose with a screwdriver and a
hammer but all that did was bend the pin.


Speaking of old Mercs ...... I wonder what happened to "Clams" somebody who
used to post here. He rebuilt old Mercs and had an inventory of old "Tower
of Power" parts. I used to enjoy his posts.

Eisboch

newby question
 

On Thu, 3 Apr 2008 20:57:22 -0400, "Eisboch" wrote:

Speaking of old Mercs ...... I wonder what happened to "Clams" somebody who
used to post here. He rebuilt old Mercs and had an inventory of old "Tower
of Power" parts. I used to enjoy his posts.

Wayne "Clams" Canino.

He moved from New England to the Carolinas a few years ago and has
made only a few guest appearances here since then. He was running a
small business and probably didn't have time for the BS here.

newby question
 

Wayne.B wrote:
On Thu, 3 Apr 2008 20:57:22 -0400, "Eisboch" wrote:

Speaking of old Mercs ...... I wonder what happened to "Clams" somebody who
used to post here. He rebuilt old Mercs and had an inventory of old "Tower
of Power" parts. I used to enjoy his posts.

Wayne "Clams" Canino.

He moved from New England to the Carolinas a few years ago and has
made only a few guest appearances here since then. He was running a
small business and probably didn't have time for the BS here.


He purchased a very success marina on Lake Hartwell.

newby question
 

Wayne.B wrote:
On Thu, 3 Apr 2008 08:31:48 -0700 (PDT), "Robert M. Gary"
wrote:

And WD-40. If it's not moving it gets WD-40, if its moving and it
shouldn't it gets duck tape.

Although I always carry a can of WD40 it is highly overrated. PB
Blaster or AeroKroil are much better penetrating fluids, and
Corrosion-X or Boesheild T-9 are much better protectants.


Steelhead seem to like like the aroma of WD40. I spray my
home-made spinners with it. Maybe it just helps dissipate
the human smell...?

newby question
 

On Apr 3, 9:19*pm, Wayne.B wrote:
On Thu, 3 Apr200820:57:22 -0400, "Eisboch" wrote:
Speaking of old Mercs ...... *I wonder what happened to "Clams" somebody who
used to post here. * He rebuilt old Mercs and had an inventory of old "Tower
of Power" parts. * I used to enjoy his posts.

Wayne"Clams"Canino.

He moved from New England to the Carolinas a few years ago and has
made only a few guest appearances here since then. *He was running a
small business and probably didn't have time for the BS here.

But he posts a lot on Aus. Politics (?)

http://groups.google.com/groups/prof...nzSqd23nbA3VVO

newby question
 

On Fri, 04 Apr 2008 21:45:45 -0700, -rick- wrote:

Wayne.B wrote:
On Thu, 3 Apr 2008 08:31:48 -0700 (PDT), "Robert M. Gary"
wrote:

And WD-40. If it's not moving it gets WD-40, if its moving and it
shouldn't it gets duck tape.

Although I always carry a can of WD40 it is highly overrated. PB
Blaster or AeroKroil are much better penetrating fluids, and
Corrosion-X or Boesheild T-9 are much better protectants.


Steelhead seem to like like the aroma of WD40. I spray my
home-made spinners with it. Maybe it just helps dissipate
the human smell...?

I've heard that from a number of people and in theory, it works on
everything from pan fish to tuna.

Frankly, it's never worked for me.

newby question
 

On Fri, 04 Apr 2008 21:45:45 -0700, -rick- wrote:

Wayne.B wrote:
On Thu, 3 Apr 2008 08:31:48 -0700 (PDT), "Robert M. Gary"
wrote:

And WD-40. If it's not moving it gets WD-40, if its moving and it
shouldn't it gets duck tape.
Although I always carry a can of WD40 it is highly overrated. PB
Blaster or AeroKroil are much better penetrating fluids, and
Corrosion-X or Boesheild T-9 are much better protectants.

Steelhead seem to like like the aroma of WD40. I spray my
home-made spinners with it. Maybe it just helps dissipate
the human smell...?


Diet Pepsi. Soak your baits in Diet Pepsi.