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#1
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Well with temps starting to plummet, I thought I'd best put the babes
to bed. both m boats, I took them out of my warehouse, and ran them home and hooked them up to the hose. Threw in a container of sta-bil, ran the 3.0 up to operating tempfor about 15 minutes, then took it down to the gas station and filled th tank., then took it back and commensed to drain the water. no problem. winderizing a 3.0 is a snap. very easy, but when I went to clean out the drain plug on the exhaust manifold. I ran a nail up in there, and out came great flakes of rust! lots of flaky rust. could this mean a new manifold is in my future? Now on the 23' Marquis, same procedure. dump in sta-bil run for 15 min. fill tank. But while I was letting it run, I shifted the gears, and this has a Morse type shifter. Big chrome device, long lever an while shifting into forward or reverse, the gears caught but it seemed like tey wernt fully engaged. and at about 1500 rpm, there was a deep rattle coming from the lower end. Engine runs great and smooth (350 GM Alpha 228) and I noticed that the throttle was a bit stiff, could this be a cable needing adjusted or replaced? The rumble, Gimbal bering going out? *ugh!* With engine shut off and gears enguaged it all feels tight at the prop, but when running and shifting it seems like there's some type of gear noise. It's really hard for me to describe. Bow, I DID have it slip out on me a couple times this summer when under a hard throttle. fearing a runaway, I immediatly pulled back on the throttle,a nd the gears caught. If I took it easy on acceleration, it would hold, but when nailing it, it would kick out about 2600 rpm. My chiltons manual doesn't say much on trouble shooting, so that's why I'm asking. The boat is a 23' marquis cuddie, and I guestimate theres at least 18 of throttle/shift cable considering the turns and bends. What do you think? Thanks! Tim |
#2
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think part of your description mentions worn or misadjusted dog
clutch. Does it sound the same in forward and reverse? yes it does, Gene. |
#3
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posted to rec.boats
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On Nov 24, 8:18 am, Gene Kearns
wrote: On Sat, 24 Nov 2007 05:47:05 -0800 (PST), Tim penned the following well considered thoughts to the readers of rec.boats: think part of your description mentions worn or misadjusted dog clutch. Does it sound the same in forward and reverse? yes it does, Gene. Hmmm..... probably people here with more experience on this, but I would guess at worn parts in the dog clutch.... although one could make a good case for just mis-adjustment. Sounds like time to pull out the factory manual and do some careful and thought provoking inspection...... I was kind of thinking the same thing, but also wondering what that low pitch rumble is at just about 1000rpm. it viberates, rumbles, and just gives you a feeling that something could fly apart. and be really expensive! |
#4
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On Nov 24, 8:32�am, Gene Kearns
wrote: On Sat, 24 Nov 2007 06:22:11 -0800 (PST), Tim penned the following well considered thoughts to the readers of rec.boats: On Nov 24, 8:18 am, Gene Kearns wrote: On Sat, 24 Nov 2007 05:47:05 -0800 (PST), Tim penned the following well considered thoughts to the readers of rec.boats: think part of your description mentions worn or misadjusted dog clutch. Does it sound the same in forward and reverse? yes it does, Gene. Hmmm..... probably people here with more experience on this, but I would guess at worn parts in the dog clutch.... although one could make a good case for just mis-adjustment. Sounds like time to pull out the factory manual and do some careful and thought provoking inspection...... I was kind of thinking the same thing, but also wondering what that low pitch rumble is at just about 1000rpm. �it viberates, rumbles, and just gives you a feeling that something could fly apart. and be really expensive! Contemplating from afar....... � I'm guessing there are worn parts, assuming one of those is the clutch, there may be pieces of metal washing around in the gear lube and doing naughty things to the bearings. I'm going to be draining the gear case today, Gene, and loook for little slivers and filings. I'm actually thinking of pulling the whole lower and looking at U-joints too. Hmmmm strange creatures, the lower ends.. |
#5
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posted to rec.boats
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"Tim" wrote
I'm actually thinking of pulling the whole lower and looking at U-joints too. That would also give you access to the gimbal bearing so you could check for rumbulation there. Hmmmm strange creatures, the lower ends.. Actually they're dirt-simple compared to, say, a modern automobile transmission. |
#6
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posted to rec.boats
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The 'slip' at 2600 on the Marquis sounds like prop hub to me. It's hard
to eval the manifolds from just finding some rust flakes. As the engine runs up to op temp, feel the risers and the manifold sides. They should be close to similar in temp, both sides. On my MC, the left riser is always cooler than the right at idle( not by a whole lot), even after I replaced the manifolds. A cool riser top with a very warm manifold during run-up will indicate flow probs. So will burned out exhaust boots, but you will have no doubt about the diagnosis when that happens. JR Tim wrote: Well with temps starting to plummet, I thought I'd best put the babes to bed. both m boats, I took them out of my warehouse, and ran them home and hooked them up to the hose. Threw in a container of sta-bil, ran the 3.0 up to operating tempfor about 15 minutes, then took it down to the gas station and filled th tank., then took it back and commensed to drain the water. no problem. winderizing a 3.0 is a snap. very easy, but when I went to clean out the drain plug on the exhaust manifold. I ran a nail up in there, and out came great flakes of rust! lots of flaky rust. could this mean a new manifold is in my future? Now on the 23' Marquis, same procedure. dump in sta-bil run for 15 min. fill tank. But while I was letting it run, I shifted the gears, and this has a Morse type shifter. Big chrome device, long lever an while shifting into forward or reverse, the gears caught but it seemed like tey wernt fully engaged. and at about 1500 rpm, there was a deep rattle coming from the lower end. Engine runs great and smooth (350 GM Alpha 228) and I noticed that the throttle was a bit stiff, could this be a cable needing adjusted or replaced? The rumble, Gimbal bering going out? *ugh!* With engine shut off and gears enguaged it all feels tight at the prop, but when running and shifting it seems like there's some type of gear noise. It's really hard for me to describe. Bow, I DID have it slip out on me a couple times this summer when under a hard throttle. fearing a runaway, I immediatly pulled back on the throttle,a nd the gears caught. If I took it easy on acceleration, it would hold, but when nailing it, it would kick out about 2600 rpm. My chiltons manual doesn't say much on trouble shooting, so that's why I'm asking. The boat is a 23' marquis cuddie, and I guestimate theres at least 18 of throttle/shift cable considering the turns and bends. What do you think? Thanks! Tim -- -------------------------------------------------------------- Home Page: http://www.seanet.com/~jasonrnorth |
#7
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posted to rec.boats
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On Nov 24, 10:22�am, JR North wrote:
The 'slip' at 2600 on the Marquis sounds like prop hub to me. I wish it was, and would agree, IF it was a gradual slippage, but this isn't it's like it's kicking out of gear, then when I back off the throttle, it will sort of "clunk" and grab again. |
#8
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posted to rec.boats
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On Nov 24, 9:43�am, "Ernest Scribbler"
wrote: Actually they're dirt-simple compared to, say, a modern automobile transmission. This is true, however, I'm used to a modern automobile transmission. LOL! Besides, this shifting relay arms etc. are a real PITA to get to on this cuddie. |
#9
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posted to rec.boats
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On Sat, 24 Nov 2007 09:15:37 -0800 (PST), Tim wrote:
On Nov 24, 10:22?am, JR North wrote: The 'slip' at 2600 on the Marquis sounds like prop hub to me. I wish it was, and would agree, IF it was a gradual slippage, but this isn't it's like it's kicking out of gear, then when I back off the throttle, it will sort of "clunk" and grab again. Tim, I missed your initial post, but saw it in JR's reply. How old are the manifolds in question. Mine lasted nine years, running in Chesapeake Bay. But, they should have been replaced at eight, thus saving me an embarrassing tow when one clogged up out in the middle of the bay. I had removed them a few years earlier to check them out. They both had a lot of flaky rust in them then. I had them magnafluxed (?) and cleaned then. -- John H |
#10
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posted to rec.boats
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Manifolds can shed a fair bit of material before they become a problem.
Usually the risers go first. If both are the same age I would be more worried about the risers. Jumping out of gear is not common on alphas. The design is such that the torque of the engine wants to force the lower unit further into engagement rather than out. That's why they have a shift interrupt switch. If you have ever had the switch go bad you know how hard it is to get an alpha out of gear. I would check the cables before the drive. You can disconnect the primary cable at the shift plate and then see how smoothly it operates alone. There is also a short cable from the plate to the outdrive. There have been a number of bulletins about the routing of the short cable. You should also check for excessive slack in the cable With the long cable you will always have some slack. The short cable should have little slack. Wear in the housing will cause a cable to have a lot of slack. Make sure that both cables operate freely and have the minimum number of turns in the routing. As well as make sure that turns have as big a radius as possible. Do not fix the long cable firmly to anything at the engine end except the shift plate. It is the cable housing movement that activates the shift interrupt switch. Make sure the shift plate lever is not twisting or binding. When you reassemble follow the adjustment procedure in the manual. There is no better check of the gimbal bearing than to pull the outdrive. Once it's out you can reach in there and check it with your hand for play or roughness when you try to spin it. Also check the u-joints as they can become noisy too. With the outdrive off you can check the upper input for play as well. The top plate on the upper half is also easy to remove and will allow you to inspect that area as well. "Tim" wrote in message ... Well with temps starting to plummet, I thought I'd best put the babes to bed. both m boats, I took them out of my warehouse, and ran them home and hooked them up to the hose. Threw in a container of sta-bil, ran the 3.0 up to operating tempfor about 15 minutes, then took it down to the gas station and filled th tank., then took it back and commensed to drain the water. no problem. winderizing a 3.0 is a snap. very easy, but when I went to clean out the drain plug on the exhaust manifold. I ran a nail up in there, and out came great flakes of rust! lots of flaky rust. could this mean a new manifold is in my future? Now on the 23' Marquis, same procedure. dump in sta-bil run for 15 min. fill tank. But while I was letting it run, I shifted the gears, and this has a Morse type shifter. Big chrome device, long lever an while shifting into forward or reverse, the gears caught but it seemed like tey wernt fully engaged. and at about 1500 rpm, there was a deep rattle coming from the lower end. Engine runs great and smooth (350 GM Alpha 228) and I noticed that the throttle was a bit stiff, could this be a cable needing adjusted or replaced? The rumble, Gimbal bering going out? *ugh!* With engine shut off and gears enguaged it all feels tight at the prop, but when running and shifting it seems like there's some type of gear noise. It's really hard for me to describe. Bow, I DID have it slip out on me a couple times this summer when under a hard throttle. fearing a runaway, I immediatly pulled back on the throttle,a nd the gears caught. If I took it easy on acceleration, it would hold, but when nailing it, it would kick out about 2600 rpm. My chiltons manual doesn't say much on trouble shooting, so that's why I'm asking. The boat is a 23' marquis cuddie, and I guestimate theres at least 18 of throttle/shift cable considering the turns and bends. What do you think? Thanks! Tim |
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