And the wood is free
 

I'm going to remove and replace the floors and supprting structure in
"Old Maude" this winter, and scored a bonus. A regular at our weekly
dances owns a Stair and Railing business. When I asked him about the
possibility of scrap oak for the project, he said to drop by the shop
and show him the size I was looking for. He told me it would be
cheaper for him (a little anyway) to have me take the scrap, instead
of paying tipping charges to someone else. It looks as though I may
score some white oak for the floor support structure. What say ye' ?
Think its a good idea? I've been told that White Oak CAN mould
though....
This brought the idea to seal it with Marine Resin before
installation... Sound good?

S.

And the wood is free
 

On Oct 30, 11:37 pm, Sunk wrote:
I'm going to remove and replace the floors and supprting structure in
"Old Maude" this winter, and scored a bonus. A regular at our weekly
dances owns a Stair and Railing business. When I asked him about the
possibility of scrap oak for the project, he said to drop by the shop
and show him the size I was looking for. He told me it would be
cheaper for him (a little anyway) to have me take the scrap, instead
of paying tipping charges to someone else. It looks as though I may
score some white oak for the floor support structure. What say ye' ?
Think its a good idea? I've been told that White Oak CAN mould
though....
This brought the idea to seal it with Marine Resin before
installation... Sound good?

S.

Go over to rec.boats.building and ask there,... and then come back
to my post;) First off let me note that encapsulation is my pet peeve,
it just makes no sense for wood. Encapsulation in Epoxy resin can lead
to fast failure, it does not breathe and once moisture gets in, (which
it eventually will), it can't get out. White oak is good for boats in
that it is strong and holds fasteners well, but on the bad side it
turns black when wet, has a oily texture that makes it hard to paint
or seal, and it is pretty heavy. White oak has been used for boat
framing and hulls for a long time, good and strong. Anyway, use good
paint and ventilations to maintain your wood and you will do much
better than encapsulation. I should note that I believe epoxy is or
filling glass, and in certain cases an adhesive, still better with
glass. My negative opinion of encapsulation is not supported by many
builders, even "some" with more experience than I. I have built close
to 60 small stitch and tape, and wood/epoxy boats, that is where I
base my opinions so take it for what it's worth.

And the wood is free
 

On Tue, 30 Oct 2007 20:37:26 -0700, Sunk wrote:

I'm going to remove and replace the floors and supprting structure in
"Old Maude" this winter, and scored a bonus. A regular at our weekly
dances owns a Stair and Railing business. When I asked him about the
possibility of scrap oak for the project, he said to drop by the shop
and show him the size I was looking for. He told me it would be
cheaper for him (a little anyway) to have me take the scrap, instead
of paying tipping charges to someone else. It looks as though I may
score some white oak for the floor support structure. What say ye' ?
Think its a good idea? I've been told that White Oak CAN mould
though....
This brought the idea to seal it with Marine Resin before
installation... Sound good?


Oak is heavy, and not quite as rot resistant as you might like but it
certainly is strong enough. Be careful not to increase "Old Maude's"
weight too much.

And the wood is free
 

Oak is heavy, and not quite as rot resistant as you might like but it
certainly is strong enough. Be careful not to increase "Old Maude's"
weight too much.

Good points, and taken.I'm going to take a piece of whats in there to
him, to see just what IS in there.I'm NOT a wood identifier.
Old Maude..as I call her (not the boats name) is a 67 CC Corsair, 20
footer. It probably weighs a ton already, but the floor support
structure is wet and punky in spots, and needs to go. I'll install new
3/4 inch Marine plywood floor after this is done.
Whats a good wood to use? Ideas?????

S.

And the wood is free
 

On Wed, 31 Oct 2007 10:00:31 -0700, Sunk wrote:

Whats a good wood to use? Ideas?????

Cedar is light and rot resistant.

3/4 inch ply is on the heavy side for flooring in a 20 footer in my
opinion. It depends on how well it's supported of course. If you
want the boat to last, spend the extra money for marine plywood. It
has fewer voids and is stronger.

And the wood is free
 

3/4 inch ply is on the heavy side for flooring in a 20 footer in my
opinion.

I stated that thickness, cause thats what I think (probably wrong)is
in there. I dont know for sure, yet. I'm gonna start tomorrow.
I suggested Cedar to friends, and they poo-pooed the idea, thinking
Cedar wasnt strong enough.I thought Cedar would make the boat smell
good, too.Its gonna get a bilge wash when opened up, as well. I just
gotta rent a good sewage pump whilst in there with the Power Washer to
keep up the outflow.I've had the side panel on the Port side out and
in already, and there was an incredible amount of dirt and dust in
there.It wouldnt hurt to re-paint parts of the bilge where the
original paint has peeled off.
It may sound to some like I'm doing a hell of a lot of work,
but thats the way I operate.I figure the boat will hold some value,
and to me a lot of value.Its in good shape for a 40 year old.

S.

And the wood is free
 

On Oct 31, 6:59 pm, Sunk wrote:
3/4 inch ply is on the heavy side for flooring in a 20 footer in my
opinion.

I stated that thickness, cause thats what I think (probably wrong)is
in there. I dont know for sure, yet. I'm gonna start tomorrow.
I suggested Cedar to friends, and they poo-pooed the idea, thinking
Cedar wasnt strong enough.I thought Cedar would make the boat smell
good, too.Its gonna get a bilge wash when opened up, as well. I just
gotta rent a good sewage pump whilst in there with the Power Washer to
keep up the outflow.I've had the side panel on the Port side out and
in already, and there was an incredible amount of dirt and dust in
there.It wouldnt hurt to re-paint parts of the bilge where the
original paint has peeled off.
It may sound to some like I'm doing a hell of a lot of work,
but thats the way I operate.I figure the boat will hold some value,
and to me a lot of value.Its in good shape for a 40 year old.

S.

Well, I went at it last night and gutted the boat. It turns out there
is a mixture of 1 inch and 3/4 inch in other spots. To my best guess,
its strait grade Pine and Mahogany that were used for ther support
structure.Cockpit lifts out in 1 section, and there is another frame
structure aft of the fuel tank.
What I did notice was the manufacturers lack of fabric and
glass in some spots. It had torn due to the fact they only gave it 1
wrap of cloth, and a light skim of Resin. Cheapskates.....
The area mentioned covers the foam cells (expandible, didnt know they
had that in 67) in the port and starboard sides in the aft of the
boat. This ripping does not affect the strength of the boat, and the
glassing in this area is only used as a water shield.After tying down
the wood again, I'm laying a skim of glass over these spots to seal up
the tears. This'll keep water from getting further into the chines in
the bottom.It'll go strait down to the Bilge.
A friend (we all have knowledgeable friends, dont we?...)
thinks I should install 1 inch throughout, but this would mean having
to trim the side panels shorter when re-installing. I dont want the
hassle, and will install the same thicknesses that were there.
It also looks like all the interior trim is Mahogany, which
will be re-finished.

More later.... S.