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Need Info on Yamaha 8hp Outboard When It is Fully Tilted Up - Follow Up
I have finally found the dimension of the Yamaha 8hp outboard when it
is fully titled up. It takes close to 11" from the edge of the transom inward toward the bow. This means I must remove those two boxy structures at the stern of my boat; otherwise, the outboard would not have room to tilt up, or I would have to mount it higher than where I want it to be. I found the info in www.shipyardisland.com -- not through their home page, but from a search engine (Yahoo). Hope this info is useful to someone. Jay Chan |
Need Info on Yamaha 8hp Outboard When It is Fully Tilted Up - Follow Up
On Oct 25, 10:52 pm, "
wrote: I have finally found the dimension of the Yamaha 8hp outboard when it is fully titled up. It takes close to 11" from the edge of the transom inward toward the bow. This means I must remove those two boxy structures at the stern of my boat; otherwise, the outboard would not have room to tilt up, or I would have to mount it higher than where I want it to be. I found the info inwww.shipyardisland.com-- not through their home page, but from a search engine (Yahoo). Hope this info is useful to someone. Jay Chan http://www.discountmarinesupplies.co...&product=92827 |
Need Info on Yamaha 8hp Outboard When It is Fully Tilted Up - Follow Up
On Oct 26, 10:11 am, wrote:
On Oct 25, 10:52 pm, " wrote: I have finally found the dimension of the Yamaha 8hp outboard when it is fully titled up. It takes close to 11" from the edge of the transom inward toward the bow. This means I must remove those two boxy structures at the stern of my boat; otherwise, the outboard would not have room to tilt up, or I would have to mount it higher than where I want it to be. I found the info inwww.shipyardisland.com--not through their home page, but from a search engine (Yahoo). Hope this info is useful to someone. Jay Chan http://www.discountmarinesupplies.co...=71388&product... Thanks for the suggestion of a retractable outboard motor bracket. But I have decided to get rid of the boxy structures from the stern of the boat for an unrelated reason anyway (to add livewells and storage space). And I also feel that mounting the kicker directly onto the transom probably is a better idea anyway -- at least this is easier and cheaper to make the kicker power-tilt. Jay Chan |
Need Info on Yamaha 8hp Outboard When It is Fully Tilted Up - Follow Up
"jaykchan wrote:
I have decided to get rid of the boxy structures from the stern of the boat I've been wondering about your "boxy structures". I can't quite picture them. Are they additions, or were they part of the original boat design? They're not water tight and foam filled are they? Rick |
Need Info on Yamaha 8hp Outboard When It is Fully Tilted Up - Follow Up
On Fri, 26 Oct '07, -rick- wrote:
I found this in my sent folder from about a year ago. Sorry if you didn't see it then. If Jay is still reading... Fully tilted up I measure about 12" clearance required forward from the back surface of the T8 mounting clamp (equivalent to the back of your mounting bracket). Yep, he saw it and replied on 11/19/06. Rick ---- another one |
Need Info on Yamaha 8hp Outboard When It is Fully Tilted Up - Follow Up
On Oct 26, 10:36 pm, -rick- wrote:
wrote: On Oct 26, 10:11 am, wrote: On Oct 25, 10:52 pm, " wrote: I have finally found the dimension of the Yamaha 8hp outboard when it is fully titled up. It takes close to 11" from the edge of the transom inward toward the bow. This means I must remove those two boxy structures at the stern of my boat; otherwise, the outboard would not have room to tilt up, or I would have to mount it higher than where I want it to be. I found the info inwww.shipyardisland.com--notthrough their home page, but from a search engine (Yahoo). Hope this info is useful to someone. Jay Chan http://www.discountmarinesupplies.co...=71388&product... Thanks for the suggestion of a retractable outboard motor bracket. But I have decided to get rid of the boxy structures from the stern of the boat for an unrelated reason anyway (to add livewells and storage space). And I also feel that mounting the kicker directly onto the transom probably is a better idea anyway -- at least this is easier and cheaper to make the kicker power-tilt. Jay Chan I found this in my sent folder from about a year ago. Sorry if you didn't see it then. --- If Jay is still reading... Fully tilted up I measure about 12" clearance required forward from the back surface of the T8 mounting clamp (equivalent to the back of your mounting bracket).- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - Thanks for reminding me. Somehow, I forgot about this. Sorry about this. Jay Chan |
Need Info on Yamaha 8hp Outboard When It is Fully Tilted Up - Follow Up
On Oct 27, 8:37 am, wrote:
"jaykchan wrote: I have decided to get rid of the boxy structures from the stern of the boat I've been wondering about your "boxy structures". I can't quite picture them. Are they additions, or were they part of the original boat design? They're not water tight and foam filled are they? Rick You can find these boxy structures in many small center consoles -- one in each side of the outboard. They are right on top of the transom. I believe the optional seats are supposed to be placed on top of these boxy structures. In other words, this boxy structure is a way to mount the seat. The manufacturer also stores the optional external oil reservior inside the boxy structure. My boat doesn't come with those optional seats, and I don't intend to put any seat at the stern of the boat. This just doesn't make any sense putting seats there because I cannot imagine anyone would want to sit just one feet away from a noisy 2-stroke outboard. My outboard doesn't need any external oil reservior because it uses internal oil reservior. And I cannot use that boxy structure to store anything else either because that box doesn't have a "real" bottom -- small items will fall through to the bigle. And it is very low profile -- meaning that I cannot stuff a lot of thing there. In other words, those boxy structures are totally useless to me -- just taking up space. Moreover, they are taking up space at the transom that I cannot mount a kicker directly on the transom. These are two reasons why I want to remove them and replace them with live wells and some storage room and that will be 12" away from the transom (to leave enough clearance for the kicker). Jay Chan |
Need Info on Yamaha 8hp Outboard When It is Fully Tilted Up - Follow Up
jaykchan wrote:
those boxy structures are totally useless If they're not water tight and foam filled, their purpose may still be to add strength to the hull and, in particular, the transom. I know several boat models that have designed in stength with similar means. Never having seen yours, I of couse have no clue. But you might find a boat builder to take a look at them and get an opinion. Anyhow, that's just my 2 cents. Be careful. Rick |
Need Info on Yamaha 8hp Outboard When It is Fully Tilted Up - Follow Up
On Oct 28, 8:18 pm, wrote:
jaykchan wrote: those boxy structures are totally useless If they're not water tight and foam filled, their purpose may still be to add strength to the hull and, in particular, the transom. I know several boat models that have designed in stength with similar means. Never having seen yours, I of couse have no clue. But you might find a boat builder to take a look at them and get an opinion. Anyhow, that's just my 2 cents. Be careful. Rick What you say is possible. They "may" be used to add rigidity to the corners of the stern to make the corner square. But I really doubt this. The reason is that the fiberglass boxy structures seem to be too thin to have any structural value, and this is one of the reason why I don't want to mount a kicker bracket on that boxy structure. They look too weak for providing any structural support. If you are interested, you can view my web page that has the pictures of the boat in it: http://www.geocities.com/jaykchan/Se...a_18ft_CC.html Thanks. Jay Chan |
Need Info on Yamaha 8hp Outboard When It is Fully Tilted Up - Follow Up
On Mon, 29 Oct 07 jaykchan wrote:
If you are interested, you can view my web page that has the pictures of the boat in it: http://www.geocities.com/jaykchan/Se...a_18ft_CC.html I dunno Jay. If the "boxy structures" are the sections above the hull/deck joint (the part marked as 6" high), I'd leave them alone until you have a builder/designer take a look first and give an opinion. Otherwise, I'd go back to the motor bracket idea. Your transom should be more than strong enough to handle 8hp & 116 lbs, on a bracket that sticks out 12". That stress would be miniscule compared to the stress of a 115hp when you shower down on it. I can see your tilt problem though, when the bracket is lifted. It can be done though it might take shims. You're right in doing a lot of measuring. Granted it's your boat and your call, but that'd be my opinion. Rick |
Need Info on Yamaha 8hp Outboard When It is Fully Tilted Up - Follow Up
On Oct 29, 12:31 pm, "
wrote: On Oct 28, 8:18 pm, wrote: jaykchan wrote: those boxy structures are totally useless If they're not water tight and foam filled, their purpose may still be to add strength to the hull and, in particular, the transom. I know several boat models that have designed in stength with similar means. Never having seen yours, I of couse have no clue. But you might find a boat builder to take a look at them and get an opinion. Anyhow, that's just my 2 cents. Be careful. Rick What you say is possible. They "may" be used to add rigidity to the corners of the stern to make the corner square. But I really doubt this. The reason is that the fiberglass boxy structures seem to be too thin to have any structural value, and this is one of the reason why I don't want to mount a kicker bracket on that boxy structure. They look too weak for providing any structural support. If you are interested, you can view my web page that has the pictures of the boat in it: http://www.geocities.com/jaykchan/Se...a_18ft_CC.html Thanks. Jay Chan Jay, if the boxy structures you are talking about is where you have the 6" dimension shown on the second picture on your site, I'd agree with Rick. That certainly looks like it would stiffen up the back of the boat, and I'd be very, very leery of removing them. |
Need Info on Yamaha 8hp Outboard When It is Fully Tilted Up - Follow Up
On Oct 29, 1:41 pm, wrote:
On Mon, 29 Oct 07 jaykchan wrote: If you are interested, you can view my web page that has the pictures of the boat in it: http://www.geocities.com/jaykchan/Se...a_18ft_CC.html I dunno Jay. If the "boxy structures" are the sections above the hull/deck joint (the part marked as 6" high), I'd leave them alone until you have a builder/designer take a look first and give an opinion. Otherwise, I'd go back to the motor bracket idea. Your transom should be more than strong enough to handle 8hp & 116 lbs, on a bracket that sticks out 12". That stress would be miniscule compared to the stress of a 115hp when you shower down on it. I can see your tilt problem though, when the bracket is lifted. It can be done though it might take shims. You're right in doing a lot of measuring. Granted it's your boat and your call, but that'd be my opinion. Rick Thanks for telling me your assessment. This is what I count on from posting in this newsgroup -- nothing less. At this point, my head is still spinning because my original plan was depending on getting rid of that boxy structures. Oh well. I think I will have to change my plan. Seem like the safest option is to ask a welder to fabricate a aluminum kicker bracket that is pointing upward by 6" and rearward by 8" (or something like that). There will be many compound angles involved. I will definitely need to make a full size model before asking the welder to fabricate it. As for the livewells and additional storage room that I want, I don't know now. I will have to take a good look on my boat to see if I can re-arrange anything else to make them happen. Thanks again for your advice before I make a mistake. Jay Chan |
Need Info on Yamaha 8hp Outboard When It is Fully Tilted Up - Follow Up
jaykchan wrote:
Seem like the safest option is to ask a welder to fabricate a aluminum kicker bracket that is pointing upward by 6" and rearward by 8" (or something like that). There will be many compound angles involved. Just for giggles, I measured an older version I have of this bracket. http://www.garelick.com/product.php?pnumber=71091 Mine, in it's fully "Up" position, points upward about 11" (from the top of its mounting plate) and back about 9". Not much diff from what you need. And it has adjustments for compound angles. With it, you can lower it to any one of several levels and run it from there. The new ones have two different "vertical travel distance" models to choose from. Might be worth a second look. Rick |
Need Info on Yamaha 8hp Outboard When It is Fully Tilted Up - Follow Up
On Oct 29, 4:25 pm, wrote:
jaykchan wrote: Seem like the safest option is to ask a welder to fabricate a aluminum kicker bracket that is pointing upward by 6" and rearward by 8" (or something like that). There will be many compound angles involved. Just for giggles, I measured an older version I have of this bracket. http://www.garelick.com/product.php?pnumber=71091 Mine, in it's fully "Up" position, points upward about 11" (from the top of its mounting plate) and back about 9". Not much diff from what you need. And it has adjustments for compound angles. With it, you can lower it to any one of several levels and run it from there. The new ones have two different "vertical travel distance" models to choose from. Might be worth a second look. Rick I know... I know... But the retractable version of motor bracket that you have mentioned is either solidly-built-but-expensive or cheap-but- looks-flimsy. I cannot have it both cheap and solidly built. The one that I have in mind is going to be welded and is not retractable -- meaning no moving parts. This means it will be very solid. And I have connection at work to have it welded (I will need to get the material and cut it myself); therefore, I am sure I can get it done at a reasonable cost. Moreover, I intend to get the kicker that has the power tilt option, and that function will be overlapping with the "retractable" function of the retractable motor bracket. Therefore, I think a non-retractable version is probably a better choice for me. Thanks for the suggestion though. Jay Chan |
Need Info on Yamaha 8hp Outboard When It is Fully Tilted Up - Follow Up
"jaykchan wrote:
I think a non-retractable version is probably a better choice for me. You da man ;-) Let us know how it works out. With maybe a photo or two on your web page. I'm thinkin' it should work fine, especially with an extra long shaft. Rick |
Need Info on Yamaha 8hp Outboard When It is Fully Tilted Up - Follow Up
wrote in message ... "jaykchan wrote: I think a non-retractable version is probably a better choice for me. You da man ;-) Let us know how it works out. With maybe a photo or two on your web page. I'm thinkin' it should work fine, especially with an extra long shaft. Rick Basically what I have on my boat. May have some pics around. If I find them I will post overthere. |
Need Info on Yamaha 8hp Outboard When It is Fully Tilted Up - Follow Up
"Calif Bill" wrote:
May have some pics around. If I find them I will post overthere. Great. I'd like to see but............... over where? |
Need Info on Yamaha 8hp Outboard When It is Fully Tilted Up - Follow Up
wrote in message oups.com... On Oct 28, 8:18 pm, wrote: jaykchan wrote: those boxy structures are totally useless If they're not water tight and foam filled, their purpose may still be to add strength to the hull and, in particular, the transom. I know several boat models that have designed in stength with similar means. Never having seen yours, I of couse have no clue. But you might find a boat builder to take a look at them and get an opinion. Anyhow, that's just my 2 cents. Be careful. Rick What you say is possible. They "may" be used to add rigidity to the corners of the stern to make the corner square. But I really doubt this. The reason is that the fiberglass boxy structures seem to be too thin to have any structural value, and this is one of the reason why I don't want to mount a kicker bracket on that boxy structure. They look too weak for providing any structural support. If you are interested, you can view my web page that has the pictures of the boat in it: http://www.geocities.com/jaykchan/Se...a_18ft_CC.html Thanks. Jay Chan Picture in alt.binaries.pictures.sports.ocean of T-8 bracket |
Need Info on Yamaha 8hp Outboard When It is Fully Tilted Up - Follow Up
On Tue, 30 Oct 07, "Calif Bill" wrote:
Picture in alt.binaries.pictures.sports.ocean of T-8 bracket Nice. If I understand Jay correctly, that's what he wants except taller, due to his transom configuration. Rick |
Need Info on Yamaha 8hp Outboard When It is Fully Tilted Up -Follow Up
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Need Info on Yamaha 8hp Outboard When It is Fully Tilted Up - Follow Up
wrote in message ... On Tue, 30 Oct 07, "Calif Bill" wrote: Picture in alt.binaries.pictures.sports.ocean of T-8 bracket Nice. If I understand Jay correctly, that's what he wants except taller, due to his transom configuration. Rick I do not know about the taller, as my motor has to set back far enough to clear the transom with the power head. The tiller handle does rub on the top of the transom. But my transom is over 35" tall. The sides are 35" from the chine. |
Need Info on Yamaha 8hp Outboard When It is Fully Tilted Up - Follow Up
On Tue, 30 Oct 07, "Calif Bill" wrote:
Picture in alt.binaries.pictures.sports.ocean of T-8 bracket Phantman: Nice. If I understand Jay correctly, that's what he wants except taller, due to his transom configuration. "Calif Bill" wrote: I do not know about the taller, You're right. I was thinking you had a 20" shaft and Jay wanted 25", but I see now I had it backasswards. http://www.geocities.com/jaykchan/Ma...o_Transom.html Rick |
Need Info on Yamaha 8hp Outboard When It is Fully Tilted Up - Follow Up
wrote in message ... On Tue, 30 Oct 07, "Calif Bill" wrote: Picture in alt.binaries.pictures.sports.ocean of T-8 bracket Phantman: Nice. If I understand Jay correctly, that's what he wants except taller, due to his transom configuration. "Calif Bill" wrote: I do not know about the taller, You're right. I was thinking you had a 20" shaft and Jay wanted 25", but I see now I had it backasswards. http://www.geocities.com/jaykchan/Ma...o_Transom.html Rick Mine is the 25" shaft. The extra long shaft. |
Need Info on Yamaha 8hp Outboard When It is Fully Tilted Up - Follow Up
On Oct 30, 12:02 pm, wrote:
"jaykchan wrote: I think a non-retractable version is probably a better choice for me. You da man ;-) Let us know how it works out. With maybe a photo or two on your web page. I'm thinkin' it should work fine, especially with an extra long shaft. Rick What I have in mind is something like the one described in this web page by a guy called John Anderson: http://continuouswave.com/whaler/ref...5AuxMotor.html His bracket needs to point to the side. Mine will need to not only point to the side, but also point up -- compounded angle. I definitely need to make a full scale model before I will cut any metal. Jay Chan |
Need Info on Yamaha 8hp Outboard When It is Fully Tilted Up - Follow Up
On Wed, 31 Oct '07, 8:22pm CST, jaykchan wrote:
What I have in mind is something like the one described in this web page by a guy called John Anderson: http://continuouswave.com/whaler/ref...5AuxMotor.html His bracket needs to point to the side. Mine will need to not only point to the side, but also point up -- compounded angle. Why do you need to angle it to the side? From your photo, it appears you can locate it up close to the hull/deck joint, anywhere you want on the port half of the transom. http://www.geocities.com/jaykchan/Ma...o_Transom.html ...... and by the way, are you still planning on a 20" shaft? If so, as Calif Bill pointed out, you may not need to angle it up very much if at all. And I wouldn't worry about having your prop too deep. The deeper your prop, the less likely it'll come out of the water due to wave action. Rick |
Need Info on Yamaha 8hp Outboard When It is Fully Tilted Up - Follow Up
On Oct 31, 10:49 pm, wrote:
On Wed, 31 Oct '07, 8:22pm CST, jaykchan wrote: What I have in mind is something like the one described in this web page by a guy called John Anderson: http://continuouswave.com/whaler/ref...5AuxMotor.html His bracket needs to point to the side. Mine will need to not only point to the side, but also point up -- compounded angle. Why do you need to angle it to the side? From your photo, it appears you can locate it up close to the hull/deck joint, anywhere you want on the port half of the transom.http://www.geocities.com/jaykchan/Ma...o_Transom.html ..... and by the way, are you still planning on a 20" shaft? If so, as Calif Bill pointed out, you may not need to angle it up very much if at all. And I wouldn't worry about having your prop too deep. The deeper your prop, the less likely it'll come out of the water due to wave action. Rick I was saying that because I don't have a chance to examine the thickness of the transom on either side of the main outboard. I didn't examine that area because I thought I would examine that area after I had removed the boxy structures. Now that I am not going to remove the boxy structures, I will have to find a different way to examine the thickness of that area. If that area is thinner than the rest, the kicker bracket will have to put close to the main outboard, and will have to angle to the side. Now I think of this, I might have worried too much. What's the chance that the transom will have variable thickness anyway. I probably will still take a look on that area to double check. But the chance is good that the bracket will be positioned away from the main outboard, and the bracket will only need to point upward instead of pointing to the side. Jay Chan |
Need Info on Yamaha 8hp Outboard When It is Fully Tilted Up - Follow Up
On Thu, 01 Nov 07, 9:33am CST, jaykchan wrote:
What's the chance that the transom will have variable thickness anyway. Slim to none. A transom on your type boat would normally be built with plenty of strength all the way across. Not your "boxy structure", but the transom.... below the hull/deck joint. The only fly in the ointment I can see is access to the transom from inside the boat. You'll need to reach the mounting bolts there with washers and nuts. That might be a pain in the butt but should be do-able somehow. One other consideration, what about mounting it on the Starboard side? That would put the tiller closer to the center line so might be more convenient to reach/steer. Just a thought. Rick |
Need Info on Yamaha 8hp Outboard When It is Fully Tilted Up - Follow Up
On Nov 1, 1:03 pm, wrote:
On Thu, 01 Nov 07, 9:33am CST, jaykchan wrote: What's the chance that the transom will have variable thickness anyway. Slim to none. A transom on your type boat would normally be built with plenty of strength all the way across. Not your "boxy structure", but the transom.... below the hull/deck joint. The only fly in the ointment I can see is access to the transom from inside the boat. You'll need to reach the mounting bolts there with washers and nuts. That might be a pain in the butt but should be do-able somehow. One other consideration, what about mounting it on the Starboard side? That would put the tiller closer to the center line so might be more convenient to reach/steer. Just a thought. Rick Actually, I am going to mount the kicker on the starboard side. The picture in my web site is showing the port side because there was no room for me to stand back far enough to take a picture on the starboard side. Either side looks the same anyway. I intend to put it in the starboard side for the following reasons: (1) I believe the turning of the propeller may tend to cause the boat to tilt to the port side; therefore, putting the kicker in the starboard may help counter balance this situation. (2) Because of the location of the steering wheel, I will be standing close to the port side; the weight of the kicker in the starboard side will also help counter balance of my weight. Actually, I have no idea if this will help or not. I just need to find some ways to rationalize my decision. Getting access to the back of the transom is going to be a problem. Currently, there are only one small round inspection hole that is kind of near that area. I may need to enlarge the small inspection hole to get access to that area, or I need to open another small hole in the bottom of the boxy structure to gain direct access to the exact area in the back of the transom. Or I can open a large hole in the rear deck where I can squeeze under the deck (when I am done, I will convert the hole into a storage space). Jay Chan |
Need Info on Yamaha 8hp Outboard When It is Fully Tilted Up - Follow Up
On Fri, 02 Nov 07, jaykchan wrote:
I intend to put it in the starboard side for the following reasons: (1) I believe the turning of the propeller may tend to cause the boat to tilt to the port side; Nice theory but in practice, the torque won't cause enough list to measure much less notice. (2) Because of the location of the steering wheel, I will be standing close to the port side; the weight of the kicker in the starboard side will also help counter balance of my weight. Actually, I have no idea if this will help or not. I like that :-) Actually, #2 is very valid. However, if you're ticky about trim, you'll still end up shuffling things & passengers around to get it just right. I just need to find some ways to rationalize my decision. I think you're good to go :-) Rick |
Need Info on Yamaha 8hp Outboard When It is Fully Tilted Up - Follow Up
On Fri, 02 Nov 2007 09:42:24 -0700, "
wrote: Jay, you sure are "into" your boat. I'm jealous. Did you ever settle on a hand washer? --Vic |
Need Info on Yamaha 8hp Outboard When It is Fully Tilted Up - Follow Up
On Nov 3, 12:51 am, Vic Smith wrote:
On Fri, 02 Nov 2007 09:42:24 -0700, " wrote: Jay, you sure are "into" your boat. I'm jealous. Did you ever settle on a hand washer? --Vic No, I was spending the entire 2007 replacing the T-top with a wooden structure; then I can continue working under the boat cover. This is a problem with trying to fix the boat without a proper facility to house the boat. Summer was so nice that I spent all the time with my kids instead of fixing the boat, and that didn't help either. Quite likely, I will need to continue working on the boat during the cold winter just to make up the losed time. The handwash station is totally depending on where I will position the livewell (after touching a bait fish, I will need to wash my hand). I have not finalized the exact location of the livewell yet. Therefore, the handwash station will have to wait. Quite likely, it will be electric powered instead of using a hand pump. Jay Chan |
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