On Aug 19, 11:14 pm, "RDF" wrote:
Bob,
Just make sure to check the block and the heads separate of eachother.
It's very common for an iron block to be mated with aluminum heads.

Respects,

Rob Fraser

Fraser Competition Engines
Chicago, IL.

"Bob" wrote in message

oups.com...



On Aug 19, 8:54 pm, "42etus" wrote:
What are you asking here? How to tell if the block is aluminum or not?
Try a
magnet.
42

"Bob" wrote in message

roups.com...

I'm looking at a nice little fishing boat/cruiser with a Detroit 353,
only about 1000 hours on it, runs great. I know this is one of the
more reliable diesels ever made, but I have heard some not-so-good
things about the ones that came with aluminum blocks. The boat was
built in 1987, so the engine is at least that old. The owner doesn't
know much about it.

Is there a way to tell which version it is?

Thanks,

Bob

--
Posted via a free Usenet account fromhttp://www.teranews.com

Uh, duh --- I plead brain fart! Sometime the obvious solution just
ain't so obvious. Of course...

Anybody know what the problems with the AL block versions might be?
Haven't heard any specifics, just "don't get one with an aluminum
block".- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

I'm not sure if detroit had any engines with aluminum heads, and I'm
amazed to know they did produce a diesel with an aluminum block.
I would say that the majority of problems would be electrolisis (sp)
eating away the block especially if raw water cooling in salt water.
also the problem with mis matching materials (AL block, copper gasket,
and cast iron head) would be the expansion and contraction issue witht
he aluminum eventually wearing the head gaskets out. But don't know
that for a fact.

Wow, a 3-53 in a boat"? 159 cubic inches!

is this for a gen set? or the main engine?