Electronic ignition conversion kit
 

I have a 1988 Sting Ray with a Mercruiser 3.0 liter. Lately I have
been having some trouble with the timing. I will set the timing and
it will start right up and idle well, but then after I speed up and
slow back down it will stall and be very hard to start, I was almost
stranded the last time I went out. Then if I adjust the timing again
I can get it running again. I am no expert on the ignition system but
I know that the timing is supposed to advance itself as the rpms go up
and then retard when they drop back down. Right now I have the points
style distributor in the boat and I think that whatever changes the
timing with the rpms is malfunctioning because when I adjust the
timing again it will start. So I have decided that in order to
eliminate this problem I am going to switch over to electronic
ignition. My question is do you think just using the conversion kit
which just converts the current distributor to an electronic one would
work? Has anyone used these kits? I am looking to do this as cheap
as possible. But since I am already having trouble with the ignition
I am unsure that the conversion kit will fix it and I will have to buy
the whole electronic distributor instead. I would like to buy just
the conversion kit unless you guys think that that won't help because
I am already having problems. So do you think that the conversion kit
will do or should I buy the whole electronic distributor? Thanks,
James.

Electronic ignition conversion kit
 

On Aug 14, 1:25 pm, Gene Kearns
wrote:
On Tue, 14 Aug 2007 10:00:35 -0700, JamesE
wrote:





I have a 1988 Sting Ray with a Mercruiser 3.0 liter. Lately I have
been having some trouble with the timing. I will set the timing and
it will start right up and idle well, but then after I speed up and
slow back down it will stall and be very hard to start, I was almost
stranded the last time I went out. Then if I adjust the timing again
I can get it running again. I am no expert on the ignition system but
I know that the timing is supposed to advance itself as the rpms go up
and then retard when they drop back down. Right now I have the points
style distributor in the boat and I think that whatever changes the
timing with the rpms is malfunctioning because when I adjust the
timing again it will start. So I have decided that in order to
eliminate this problem I am going to switch over to electronic
ignition. My question is do you think just using the conversion kit
which just converts the current distributor to an electronic one would
work? Has anyone used these kits? I am looking to do this as cheap
as possible. But since I am already having trouble with the ignition
I am unsure that the conversion kit will fix it and I will have to buy
the whole electronic distributor instead. I would like to buy just
the conversion kit unless you guys think that that won't help because
I am already having problems. So do you think that the conversion kit
will do or should I buy the whole electronic distributor? Thanks,
James.

What strikes me, here, is that you haven't diagnosed the problem.

What is causing the timing to change? Is the points wear block
wearing? Are the points burning out or welding? Is the advance
mechanism hanging? Are you getting ready to lose the timing chain or
gears?

If you want to do this with the last amount of cost, don't start
swapping parts..... properly diagnose the problem and fix only what is
wrong......
--

Grady-White Gulfstream, out of Oak Island, NC.

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I think that the mechanism which advances the timing is hanging up.
The last time I went out I marked where the distributor was when the
boat was in good running and starting condition. Then I went out for
a ride and played around with the timing until it felt like it was
running the best. I went fast for a while and the boat ran great.
Then when I slowed down it ran rough and then died. I could not get
it started again so I adjusted timing back to the mark that I had
previously made but the boat still would not start so I played around
with it until I got it running again and went straight in. So I think
that it is the mechanism that advances the timing causing the problems
because even when I put it back to the mark it would not start. That
leads me to believe that even though the distributor was in the same
place the timing was different because of something internal being
stuck. I was looking at the conversion kits and it says that the kits
use the old distributor cap, coil, and rotor. So I was wondering if
you know if the rotor is what controls advancing the timing? Because
if it does then I would have to replace that too because that would be
what is causing the problems. Thanks, James.

Electronic ignition conversion kit
 

There are 2 flyweights and 2 springs under the base plate. Either a spring
is broken or the weight is sticking. You need to fix this or buy a new
distributer. You will need a timing light and a dwell meter to set things up
properly.
Jim
"JamesE" wrote in message
oups.com...
On Aug 14, 1:25 pm, Gene Kearns
wrote:
On Tue, 14 Aug 2007 10:00:35 -0700, JamesE
wrote:





I have a 1988 Sting Ray with a Mercruiser 3.0 liter. Lately I have
been having some trouble with the timing. I will set the timing and
it will start right up and idle well, but then after I speed up and
slow back down it will stall and be very hard to start, I was almost
stranded the last time I went out. Then if I adjust the timing again
I can get it running again. I am no expert on the ignition system but
I know that the timing is supposed to advance itself as the rpms go up
and then retard when they drop back down. Right now I have the points
style distributor in the boat and I think that whatever changes the
timing with the rpms is malfunctioning because when I adjust the
timing again it will start. So I have decided that in order to
eliminate this problem I am going to switch over to electronic
ignition. My question is do you think just using the conversion kit
which just converts the current distributor to an electronic one would
work? Has anyone used these kits? I am looking to do this as cheap
as possible. But since I am already having trouble with the ignition
I am unsure that the conversion kit will fix it and I will have to buy
the whole electronic distributor instead. I would like to buy just
the conversion kit unless you guys think that that won't help because
I am already having problems. So do you think that the conversion kit
will do or should I buy the whole electronic distributor? Thanks,
James.

What strikes me, here, is that you haven't diagnosed the problem.

What is causing the timing to change? Is the points wear block
wearing? Are the points burning out or welding? Is the advance
mechanism hanging? Are you getting ready to lose the timing chain or
gears?

If you want to do this with the last amount of cost, don't start
swapping parts..... properly diagnose the problem and fix only what is
wrong......
--

Grady-White Gulfstream, out of Oak Island, NC.

eMail


Homepagehttp://pamandgene.idleplay.net/

Rec.boats at Lee Yeaton's Bayguidehttp://www.thebayguide.com/rec.boats
-----------------www.Newsgroup-Binaries.com- *Completion*Retention*Speed*
Access your favorite newsgroups from home or on the road
------------------ Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

I think that the mechanism which advances the timing is hanging up.
The last time I went out I marked where the distributor was when the
boat was in good running and starting condition. Then I went out for
a ride and played around with the timing until it felt like it was
running the best. I went fast for a while and the boat ran great.
Then when I slowed down it ran rough and then died. I could not get
it started again so I adjusted timing back to the mark that I had
previously made but the boat still would not start so I played around
with it until I got it running again and went straight in. So I think
that it is the mechanism that advances the timing causing the problems
because even when I put it back to the mark it would not start. That
leads me to believe that even though the distributor was in the same
place the timing was different because of something internal being
stuck. I was looking at the conversion kits and it says that the kits
use the old distributor cap, coil, and rotor. So I was wondering if
you know if the rotor is what controls advancing the timing? Because
if it does then I would have to replace that too because that would be
what is causing the problems. Thanks, James.



--
Posted via a free Usenet account from http://www.teranews.com

Electronic ignition conversion kit
 

On Tue, 14 Aug 2007 14:50:24 -0700, JamesE
wrote:

On Aug 14, 1:25 pm, Gene Kearns
wrote:

What strikes me, here, is that you haven't diagnosed the problem.


I think that the mechanism which advances the timing is hanging up.
The last time I went out I marked where the distributor was when the
boat was in good running and starting condition. Then I went out for
a ride and played around with the timing until it felt like it was
running the best. I went fast for a while and the boat ran great.
Then when I slowed down it ran rough and then died. I could not get
it started again so I adjusted timing back to the mark that I had
previously made but the boat still would not start so I played around
with it until I got it running again and went straight in. So I think
that it is the mechanism that advances the timing causing the problems
because even when I put it back to the mark it would not start. That
leads me to believe that even though the distributor was in the same
place the timing was different because of something internal being
stuck. I was looking at the conversion kits and it says that the kits
use the old distributor cap, coil, and rotor. So I was wondering if
you know if the rotor is what controls advancing the timing? Because
if it does then I would have to replace that too because that would be
what is causing the problems. Thanks, James.

Like Gene said. It could even be a fuel issue. Before you throw
money at it you might buy/borrow a dwell meter to check the advance.
I would *give* you mine if I could find it. Might just toss a new
condenser and point set in too.
The advance is vacuum if you have a diaphragm fitting on the dist and
a tube running to a vacuum source. Otherwise it's mechanical and
works with centrifugal weights in the dist. I think you can test the
mechanism by hand to make sure it's advancing and returning, but I'm a
bit cloudy on it now. It just might be worth paying a mech to
diagnose it if you're not comfortable doing it.

--Vic

Electronic ignition conversion kit
 

The mechanism that advances the timing is a pair of weights and springs.
It's been a while but if I remember they are under the plate that the points
are mounted on in chevy distributors. The mechanical advance works by
twisting the top of the distributor shaft as the weights sling out when the
rpm increases. You can usually feel it by grabbing the rotor and attempting
to twist it. Another problem that can cause timing changes is a worn out
upper bushing in the distributor. When the bushing is worn it allow sthe
shaft to move side to side which can change the gap and that changes the
timing. You check the upper bushing by trying to move the shaft from side
to side. Turn it so the points are open and then you can watch the points
to see how much of an effect you are having on them.

On the off chance you have a vacuum advance it is a vacuum diaphram on the
side of the distributor with an arm that turns the points plate. Vacuum
advances are not common on boats.

If the advance is having problems then just converting to electronic may not
be the answer. Some conversions still rely on the mechanical advance. They
just replace the points with a trigger and a cd module. Unless you replace
the distributor with an electronic one such as the thunderbolt setup. Then
the advance is electronically controlled in the cd module.

Distibutors are repairable. It's easier out of the engine. Set it on tdc
with the rotor pointed to the #1 plug wire before you remove it.


"JamesE" wrote in message
oups.com...
I have a 1988 Sting Ray with a Mercruiser 3.0 liter. Lately I have
been having some trouble with the timing. I will set the timing and
it will start right up and idle well, but then after I speed up and
slow back down it will stall and be very hard to start, I was almost
stranded the last time I went out. Then if I adjust the timing again
I can get it running again. I am no expert on the ignition system but
I know that the timing is supposed to advance itself as the rpms go up
and then retard when they drop back down. Right now I have the points
style distributor in the boat and I think that whatever changes the
timing with the rpms is malfunctioning because when I adjust the
timing again it will start. So I have decided that in order to
eliminate this problem I am going to switch over to electronic
ignition. My question is do you think just using the conversion kit
which just converts the current distributor to an electronic one would
work? Has anyone used these kits? I am looking to do this as cheap
as possible. But since I am already having trouble with the ignition
I am unsure that the conversion kit will fix it and I will have to buy
the whole electronic distributor instead. I would like to buy just
the conversion kit unless you guys think that that won't help because
I am already having problems. So do you think that the conversion kit
will do or should I buy the whole electronic distributor? Thanks,
James.

Electronic ignition conversion kit
 

JamesE wrote:
I have a 1988 Sting Ray with a Mercruiser 3.0 liter. Lately I have
been having some trouble with the timing. I will set the timing and
it will start right up and idle well, but then after I speed up and
slow back down it will stall and be very hard to start, I was almost
stranded the last time I went out. Then if I adjust the timing again
I can get it running again. I am no expert on the ignition system but
I know that the timing is supposed to advance itself as the rpms go up
and then retard when they drop back down. Right now I have the points
style distributor in the boat and I think that whatever changes the
timing with the rpms is malfunctioning because when I adjust the
timing again it will start. So I have decided that in order to
eliminate this problem I am going to switch over to electronic
ignition. My question is do you think just using the conversion kit
which just converts the current distributor to an electronic one would
work? Has anyone used these kits? I am looking to do this as cheap
as possible. But since I am already having trouble with the ignition
I am unsure that the conversion kit will fix it and I will have to buy
the whole electronic distributor instead. I would like to buy just
the conversion kit unless you guys think that that won't help because
I am already having problems. So do you think that the conversion kit
will do or should I buy the whole electronic distributor? Thanks,
James.


I've used the Pertronix Ignitor from

http://www.vintageperformance.com/re...s/mercruis.htm

in Mercruisers without any problems at all. Huge improvement - holds
the dwell steady so the base timing can be set accurately.

Rob

Electronic ignition conversion kit
 

Thanks for the responses guys. I have decided that before I buy
anything I am going to try to figure out what is wrong. Also I didn't
realize that the conversion kits use the mechanical advance.
Therefore I am considering spending the extra money to buy a
completely electronic distributor because I want to get rid of that
system. James

Electronic ignition conversion kit
 

Okay I was planning on buying a new electronic distributor, but those
have really gone up in price. Since I don't want to spend that much
money so I will repair this one. But the problem is that today I
looked at the mechanical advance in the distributor and everything was
intact and appeared to be moving fine. Therefore I don't think that
this is the problem like I originally did. The points did have slight
pitting but nothing severe. Tomorrow I am going to order the
electronic conversion kit because I want to get rid of the points.
However I don't think that the distributor is the problem, so this
won't fix it. Does anyone have any other suggestions on what could be
wrong? I want to fix this myself because I am pretty mechanically
inclined and don't want to pay a mechanic. I was thinking maybe the
coil is bad because there is slight pitting in the distributor cap.
Also I don't think it is the timing chain causing the problem because
this boat was not used very often. The previous owner had the boat
for five years and never once used it. So this problem may have been
caused because the boat sat for five years, although it was properly
winterized. This may be a carburetor problem, although I am leaning
towards an ignition problem. I have already sprayed the carburetor
with carburetor cleaner but if I can't fix this problem my next step
will be to try rebuilding the carburetor.

Electronic ignition conversion kit
 

JamesE wrote:
Okay I was planning on buying a new electronic distributor, but those
have really gone up in price. Since I don't want to spend that much
money so I will repair this one. But the problem is that today I
looked at the mechanical advance in the distributor and everything was
intact and appeared to be moving fine. Therefore I don't think that
this is the problem like I originally did. The points did have slight
pitting but nothing severe. Tomorrow I am going to order the
electronic conversion kit because I want to get rid of the points.
However I don't think that the distributor is the problem, so this
won't fix it. Does anyone have any other suggestions on what could be
wrong? I want to fix this myself because I am pretty mechanically
inclined and don't want to pay a mechanic. I was thinking maybe the
coil is bad because there is slight pitting in the distributor cap.
Also I don't think it is the timing chain causing the problem because
this boat was not used very often. The previous owner had the boat
for five years and never once used it. So this problem may have been
caused because the boat sat for five years, although it was properly
winterized. This may be a carburetor problem, although I am leaning
towards an ignition problem. I have already sprayed the carburetor
with carburetor cleaner but if I can't fix this problem my next step
will be to try rebuilding the carburetor.


It sounds like you have to pin down the timing issue first. I doubt it
would be the mechanical advance unless a spring has broken.

I've used the Pertronix Ignitor from

http://www.vintageperformance.com/re...s/mercruis.htm

in Mercruisers without any problems at all. Huge improvement - holds
the dwell steady so the base timing can be set accurately. The 3.0 is a
durable engine, I've not heard much about timing chain failures on them.

Rob

Electronic ignition conversion kit
 

On Mon, 20 Aug 2007 17:18:59 -0700, JamesE
wrote:

Okay I was planning on buying a new electronic distributor, but those
have really gone up in price. Since I don't want to spend that much
money so I will repair this one. But the problem is that today I
looked at the mechanical advance in the distributor and everything was
intact and appeared to be moving fine. Therefore I don't think that
this is the problem like I originally did. The points did have slight
pitting but nothing severe. Tomorrow I am going to order the
electronic conversion kit because I want to get rid of the points.
However I don't think that the distributor is the problem, so this
won't fix it. Does anyone have any other suggestions on what could be
wrong? I want to fix this myself because I am pretty mechanically
inclined and don't want to pay a mechanic. I was thinking maybe the
coil is bad because there is slight pitting in the distributor cap.
Also I don't think it is the timing chain causing the problem because
this boat was not used very often. The previous owner had the boat
for five years and never once used it. So this problem may have been
caused because the boat sat for five years, although it was properly
winterized. This may be a carburetor problem, although I am leaning
towards an ignition problem. I have already sprayed the carburetor
with carburetor cleaner but if I can't fix this problem my next step
will be to try rebuilding the carburetor.

If I recall correctly, the thing would run well, then die.
You would tinker with the points and it would be okay for awhile.
While you were tinkering, things were cooling off.
Look for something heat related in the fuel/ignition.
I think you said there was no fuel venting problem.
Don't waste time rebuilding the carb if you're not sure that's the
problem, and it probably isn't, given your symptoms.
It won't hurt to replace the coil, points and condenser.
Coils can cause intermittent problems.
I would do this before doing the electronic conversion, because the
conversion itself will introduce new doubts.
But even before that, if it runs well for a while now, I would hook up
ignition meters and fuel gages, reproduce the problem while monitoring
the gages, before I did *anything* else.. Be careful not to short
anything or leak any gas while running.
Note, I don't have experience with marine engines, but plenty with
automotive, and your problem is an engine problem.

--Vic

Electronic ignition conversion kit
 

Thanks for the responses, I will replace the coil and points and see
if that makes a difference. As well as continue to look for other
things that might be the problem. If that doesn't work I will see if
I can borrow some ignition and fuel gauges. Also the timing gauge
that you use to adjust the timing with a timing light is completely
unreadable on my engine. It is there but is too rusty to read. So if
anyone can post a picture of this gauge or can explain what it reads
on the gauge I would appreciate it. I would then use the gauge to at
least get an estimate of where the timing should be. I can't replace
this because it would require replacing the whole timing cover.
Thanks, James.

Electronic ignition conversion kit
 

On Mon, 20 Aug 2007 18:02:02 -0700, JamesE
wrote:

Thanks for the responses, I will replace the coil and points and see
if that makes a difference. As well as continue to look for other
things that might be the problem. If that doesn't work I will see if
I can borrow some ignition and fuel gauges. Also the timing gauge
that you use to adjust the timing with a timing light is completely
unreadable on my engine. It is there but is too rusty to read. So if
anyone can post a picture of this gauge or can explain what it reads
on the gauge I would appreciate it. I would then use the gauge to at
least get an estimate of where the timing should be. I can't replace
this because it would require replacing the whole timing cover.
Thanks, James.

Not familiar with the timing marks on yours, but a wire brush might
make it all readable. Paint the fixed and movable marks with white
or yellow nail polish when you find them.
Look on the net for a picture to help you out, or find somebody who
knows where the marks are.

--Vic

Electronic ignition conversion kit
 

Vic Smith wrote:
On Mon, 20 Aug 2007 18:02:02 -0700, JamesE
wrote:

Thanks for the responses, I will replace the coil and points and see
if that makes a difference. As well as continue to look for other
things that might be the problem. If that doesn't work I will see if
I can borrow some ignition and fuel gauges. Also the timing gauge
that you use to adjust the timing with a timing light is completely
unreadable on my engine. It is there but is too rusty to read. So if
anyone can post a picture of this gauge or can explain what it reads
on the gauge I would appreciate it. I would then use the gauge to at
least get an estimate of where the timing should be. I can't replace
this because it would require replacing the whole timing cover.
Thanks, James.

Not familiar with the timing marks on yours, but a wire brush might
make it all readable. Paint the fixed and movable marks with white
or yellow nail polish when you find them.
Look on the net for a picture to help you out, or find somebody who
knows where the marks are.

--Vic

Bingo.

And then you just have to be close.

Then time it by ear & tach on the water in real running conditions.
Once you have it set with the Pertronix module, you'll never have to
change it again unless your fuel or altitude changes drastically.

Rob

Electronic ignition conversion kit
 

I would try using a wire brush to clean the gauge but it is rusted so
thin I am positive that it would then break off completely. I tried
using contact cleaner but that didn't help. I will look on the
Internet for pictures, but the timing is in a spot right now where it
will run so maybe I will just try and adjust it by ear on the water.
Also while I have the distributor apart what kind of chemicals can I
use to clean the mechanical advance? I was thinking contact cleaner
to get the dirt out because that evaporates quickly. Also should I
put grease or anything on it? I didn't want to use Wd-40 because I
was afraid that it would interfere with the points. But if I put on
the conversion kit that shouldn't be a problem. Thanks, James.

Electronic ignition conversion kit
 

On Aug 21, 1:35 pm, JamesE wrote:
I would try using a wire brush to clean the gauge but it is rusted so
thin I am positive that it would then break off completely. I tried
using contact cleaner but that didn't help. I will look on the
Internet for pictures, but the timing is in a spot right now where it
will run so maybe I will just try and adjust it by ear on the water.
Also while I have the distributor apart what kind of chemicals can I
use to clean the mechanical advance? I was thinking contact cleaner
to get the dirt out because that evaporates quickly. Also should I
put grease or anything on it? I didn't want to use Wd-40 because I
was afraid that it would interfere with the points. But if I put on
the conversion kit that shouldn't be a problem. Thanks, James.

Wd40 is good for cleaning and freeing up things but it's not a long
lasting lubricant. Use an oil or light grease on the advance pivots
after cleaning.

Heat related starting issues is almost always either vapor lock or the
coil. Vapor lock can just be the symptom of a cooling problem as
well.

I recomend you clean the timing marks or get a new one. Setting
timing by ear is a good way to end up with detonation and that's bad
for your engine. A stock engine should have the timing set to the
manufacturers recomended setting. A lot of those degree markers are
just bolted under a couple of the timing cover bolts. They are cheap.

Electronic ignition conversion kit
 

On Aug 21, 3:09 pm, jamesgangnc wrote:
On Aug 21, 1:35 pm, JamesE wrote:

I would try using a wire brush to clean the gauge but it is rusted so
thin I am positive that it would then break off completely. I tried
using contact cleaner but that didn't help. I will look on the
Internet for pictures, but the timing is in a spot right now where it
will run so maybe I will just try and adjust it by ear on the water.
Also while I have the distributor apart what kind of chemicals can I
use to clean the mechanical advance? I was thinking contact cleaner
to get the dirt out because that evaporates quickly. Also should I
put grease or anything on it? I didn't want to use Wd-40 because I
was afraid that it would interfere with the points. But if I put on
the conversion kit that shouldn't be a problem. Thanks, James.

Wd40 is good for cleaning and freeing up things but it's not a long
lasting lubricant. Use an oil or light grease on the advance pivots
after cleaning.

Heat related starting issues is almost always either vapor lock or the
coil. Vapor lock can just be the symptom of a cooling problem as
well.

I recomend you clean the timing marks or get a new one. Setting
timing by ear is a good way to end up with detonation and that's bad
for your engine. A stock engine should have the timing set to the
manufacturers recomended setting. A lot of those degree markers are
just bolted under a couple of the timing cover bolts. They are cheap.

Thanks, I would replace the timing marks but I have already looked
into replacing them and it is welded on and the only way to replace it
would require replacing the entire timing cover. I don't think that
the problem is vapor lock because the engine doesn't run hot, only
about 165 to 170 degrees. Also even if I let the boat cool down after
it dies it won't start unless I adjust the timing. Therefore I think
that it is the coil causing the problems, and I went out and bought
that today so I am hoping that replacing it will fix the problem.
James

Electronic ignition conversion kit
 

"JamesE" wrote in message
oups.com...
On Aug 21, 3:09 pm, jamesgangnc wrote:
On Aug 21, 1:35 pm, JamesE wrote:

I would try using a wire brush to clean the gauge but it is rusted so
thin I am positive that it would then break off completely. I tried
using contact cleaner but that didn't help. I will look on the
Internet for pictures, but the timing is in a spot right now where it
will run so maybe I will just try and adjust it by ear on the water.
Also while I have the distributor apart what kind of chemicals can I
use to clean the mechanical advance? I was thinking contact cleaner
to get the dirt out because that evaporates quickly. Also should I
put grease or anything on it? I didn't want to use Wd-40 because I
was afraid that it would interfere with the points. But if I put on
the conversion kit that shouldn't be a problem. Thanks, James.

Wd40 is good for cleaning and freeing up things but it's not a long
lasting lubricant. Use an oil or light grease on the advance pivots
after cleaning.

Heat related starting issues is almost always either vapor lock or the
coil. Vapor lock can just be the symptom of a cooling problem as
well.

I recomend you clean the timing marks or get a new one. Setting
timing by ear is a good way to end up with detonation and that's bad
for your engine. A stock engine should have the timing set to the
manufacturers recomended setting. A lot of those degree markers are
just bolted under a couple of the timing cover bolts. They are cheap.

Thanks, I would replace the timing marks but I have already looked
into replacing them and it is welded on and the only way to replace it
would require replacing the entire timing cover. I don't think that
the problem is vapor lock because the engine doesn't run hot, only
about 165 to 170 degrees. Also even if I let the boat cool down after
it dies it won't start unless I adjust the timing. Therefore I think
that it is the coil causing the problems, and I went out and bought
that today so I am hoping that replacing it will fix the problem.
James


Summit Racing and probably Jags has stick on timing tapes. Sticks on the
harmonic balancer. Or just find the timing marks and use some contrasting
paint to fill them in.

Electronic ignition conversion kit
 

Regarding the timing guage I went and looked at a new one so I now
know where the timing should be. I also replaced all of those parts
like the coil but that didn't make a difference so I kept looking for
the problem. I then rebuilt the carburetor which made it run much
better but didn't fix the problem. Then I cleaned the engine grounds
and that fixed the problem. I guess the heat was affecting the ground
which is why it would die and not start, then start up fine in the
morning. Also I guess the reason changing the timing helped to get it
started was because it was making a better ground with the
distributor. Thanks everyone for helping me.

Electronic ignition conversion kit
 

On Thu, 06 Sep 2007 12:26:01 -0700, JamesE
wrote:

Regarding the timing guage I went and looked at a new one so I now
know where the timing should be. I also replaced all of those parts
like the coil but that didn't make a difference so I kept looking for
the problem. I then rebuilt the carburetor which made it run much
better but didn't fix the problem. Then I cleaned the engine grounds
and that fixed the problem. I guess the heat was affecting the ground
which is why it would die and not start, then start up fine in the
morning. Also I guess the reason changing the timing helped to get it
started was because it was making a better ground with the
distributor. Thanks everyone for helping me.

Thanks for the results. Might help somebody else down the line.
Not sure what grounds you cleaned up, but it might just have been heat
upping the resistance a bit, and while you played with the distributor
it cooled off enough. Just guessing.
But I had a similar problem with a primary ignition wire laying
against a head and when it reached a certain temp it would kill the
engine. Let it cool off and it was fine.
Fuel pressure/volume was good, so I wasted a new control module trying
to fix it to no avail. I hung my head in defeat over the engine, the
sun came through the clouds at the correct angle, and my eye caught
a glint in the wire on the head near the firewall.
An inch of electrical tape fixed it and my 3 month nightmare was over.
Of course I had failed to the wire in its loop when I changed the
valve cover gasket the previous year, so had nobody to blame but
myself. But I still don't like Chrysler.

--Vic