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Chuck Gould July 15th 07 09:34 AM

A timely self-reminder about ground tackle, eel grass
 
Prepping for our long cruise of 2007, and one of the itmes on the "to
do" list has been renewing the ground tackle.

We have been using a mixed rode, with about 40-feet of chain and 200
feet of nylon rope. This is something like our 14th summer with this
particular boat, and we have never changed the rode. It wasn't
probably brand new when we bought the boat, so I was becoming nervous
about the nylon rope.

I think my concern was well-founded. The leading 50-feet or so of the
rope was beginning to fray and was showing some obvious
chafing scars. I've probably been luckier than I deserve the last
couple of times we have anchored out.

So far, I have replaced our 24 pound Danforth anchor with a 28-pound.
I always thought that 24-pounder was just slightly undersized, and I
like the larger flukes on the 28. We most ordinarily anchor in mud, so
Danforth is a good choice for us and the wider flukes will grab a
wider chunk of the bottom and better resist pulling out.

The old chain never really fit the gypsy very well. I think it was
proof coil instead of BBB, as even though the individual links would
nestle between the cogs on the gypsy the links were too long. When
under tension the spacing between links wasn't exactly proper. Proof
coil is fine for a rode that will be wound up on a large drum on the
foredeck, (often seen on commercial vessels), but most gypsies are
designed for BBB links.
I've found 85-feet of BBB chain at the local 2nd-hand marine supply
store, but I'm hoping to come up with 100-150 feet instead. A lot of
our anchorages are crowded and the reduced scope required when
anchoring with chain helps control swing.
I'll splurge for a brand new length of nylon rope- used chain is OK,
but not used rope.

It's also time to replace the deck switch for the windlass.

And as I'm getting prepared to anchor more securely, I need to
remember that it's best not to anchor at all if there are mooring
buoys or a float nearby. Most of the depths that are suitable for
anchoring in this region are covered with eel-grass- a very important
environment in the eco system. Eel grass is where herring spawn, so
plowing up the seabed with a dragging anchor or chain mows down a lot
of the eel grass and reduces the number of herring. Fewer herring
means less food for salmon, and fewer salmon means less food for
humans and orcas. Funny how a decision whether to drop an anchor or
spend $10 to tie up to a mooring buoy can actually have long range
environmental impacts, isn't it?


[email protected] July 16th 07 03:33 AM

A timely self-reminder about ground tackle, eel grass
 
On Jul 15, 8:34 pm, Chuck Gould wrote:
Prepping for our long cruise of 2007, and one of the itmes on the "to
do" list has been renewing the ground tackle.

We have been using a mixed rode, with about 40-feet ofchainand 200
feet of nylon rope. This is something like our 14th summer with this
particularboat, and we have never changed the rode. It wasn't
probably brand new when we bought theboat, so I was becoming nervous
about the nylon rope.

I think my concern was well-founded. The leading 50-feet or so of the
rope was beginning to fray and was showing some obvious
chafing scars. I've probably been luckier than I deserve the last
couple of times we have anchored out.

So far, I have replaced our 24 pound Danforthanchorwith a 28-pound.
I always thought that 24-pounder was just slightly undersized, and I
like the larger flukes on the 28. We most ordinarilyanchorin mud, so
Danforth is a good choice for us and the wider flukes will grab a
wider chunk of the bottom and better resist pulling out.

The oldchainnever really fit the gypsy very well. I think it was
proof coil instead of BBB, as even though the individual links would
nestle between the cogs on the gypsy the links were too long. When
under tension the spacing between links wasn't exactly proper. Proof
coil is fine for a rode that will be wound up on a large drum on the
foredeck, (often seen on commercial vessels), but most gypsies are
designed for BBB links.
I've found 85-feet of BBBchainat the local 2nd-handmarinesupply
store, but I'm hoping to come up with 100-150 feet instead. A lot of
our anchorages are crowded and the reduced scope required when
anchoring withchainhelps control swing.
I'll splurge for a brand new length of nylon rope- usedchainis OK,
but not used rope.

It's also time to replace the deck switch for the windlass.

And as I'm getting prepared toanchormore securely, I need to
remember that it's best not toanchorat all if there are mooring
buoys or a float nearby. Most of the depths that are suitable for
anchoring in this region are covered with eel-grass- a very important
environment in the eco system. Eel grass is where herring spawn, so
plowing up the seabed with a dragginganchororchainmows down a lot
of the eel grass and reduces the number of herring. Fewer herring
means less food for salmon, and fewer salmon means less food for
humans and orcas. Funny how a decision whether to drop ananchoror
spend $10 to tie up to a mooring buoy can actually have long range
environmental impacts, isn't it?


Try looking at other anchors... a Danforth type is no general purpose
anchor, it is very specialist and intended for straight line pulls
only. It also has drag characteristics that make it, along with most
older anchors, quite eco-unfriendly.

http://www.sailboatowners.com/forums...053.34&fno=122
http://www.sailnet.com/forums/cruisi...tml#post166644
http://www.rocna.com/main.php?sectio...testing&page=0

"I was in Atlantic Highlands this week when a nasty frontal
thunderstorm hit. The wind reversed direction and the first blasts
were probably 35 to 40 knots. The boat next to us was on a rope-chain
rode with a danforth type anchor, and was unattended. It immediately
started dragging, fortunately away from us and out of the harbor.
Amazingly the anchor reset, even though the boat was doing about 4
knots, and when the rain let up, it was sitting about 200 yards
further away, and about a boatlength in front of a power boat."
- A seriously experienced long distance cruiser


Chuck Gould July 16th 07 04:41 AM

A timely self-reminder about ground tackle, eel grass
 
On Jul 15, 7:33?pm, " wrote:
On Jul 15, 8:34 pm, Chuck Gould wrote:





Prepping for our long cruise of 2007, and one of the itmes on the "to
do" list has been renewing the ground tackle.


We have been using a mixed rode, with about 40-feet ofchainand 200
feet of nylon rope. This is something like our 14th summer with this
particularboat, and we have never changed the rode. It wasn't
probably brand new when we bought theboat, so I was becoming nervous
about the nylon rope.


I think my concern was well-founded. The leading 50-feet or so of the
rope was beginning to fray and was showing some obvious
chafing scars. I've probably been luckier than I deserve the last
couple of times we have anchored out.


So far, I have replaced our 24 pound Danforthanchorwith a 28-pound.
I always thought that 24-pounder was just slightly undersized, and I
like the larger flukes on the 28. We most ordinarilyanchorin mud, so
Danforth is a good choice for us and the wider flukes will grab a
wider chunk of the bottom and better resist pulling out.


The oldchainnever really fit the gypsy very well. I think it was
proof coil instead of BBB, as even though the individual links would
nestle between the cogs on the gypsy the links were too long. When
under tension the spacing between links wasn't exactly proper. Proof
coil is fine for a rode that will be wound up on a large drum on the
foredeck, (often seen on commercial vessels), but most gypsies are
designed for BBB links.
I've found 85-feet of BBBchainat the local 2nd-handmarinesupply
store, but I'm hoping to come up with 100-150 feet instead. A lot of
our anchorages are crowded and the reduced scope required when
anchoring withchainhelps control swing.
I'll splurge for a brand new length of nylon rope- usedchainis OK,
but not used rope.


It's also time to replace the deck switch for the windlass.


And as I'm getting prepared toanchormore securely, I need to
remember that it's best not toanchorat all if there are mooring
buoys or a float nearby. Most of the depths that are suitable for
anchoring in this region are covered with eel-grass- a very important
environment in the eco system. Eel grass is where herring spawn, so
plowing up the seabed with a dragginganchororchainmows down a lot
of the eel grass and reduces the number of herring. Fewer herring
means less food for salmon, and fewer salmon means less food for
humans and orcas. Funny how a decision whether to drop ananchoror
spend $10 to tie up to a mooring buoy can actually have long range
environmental impacts, isn't it?


Try looking at other anchors... a Danforth type is no general purpose
anchor, it is very specialist and intended for straight line pulls
only. It also has drag characteristics that make it, along with most
older anchors, quite eco-unfriendly.

http://www.sailboatowners.com/forums...testing&page=0

"I was in Atlantic Highlands this week when a nasty frontal
thunderstorm hit. The wind reversed direction and the first blasts
were probably 35 to 40 knots. The boat next to us was on a rope-chain
rode with a danforth type anchor, and was unattended. It immediately
started dragging, fortunately away from us and out of the harbor.
Amazingly the anchor reset, even though the boat was doing about 4
knots, and when the rain let up, it was sitting about 200 yards
further away, and about a boatlength in front of a power boat."
- A seriously experienced long distance cruiser- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -


I have used a Danforth on three different boats over a period of about
25 years with nary an instance of breaking loose. It has proven to be
a very good choice in my cruising area- where we nearly always have a
mud bottom.

Note that in your example quoted above the Danforth reset itself even
in 40-knot winds and with the boat traveling as fast as 4 knots.

I am sensitive to the ecological issues involved with anchors all
types. (The circling chain tends to mow down a lot of vegetation,
regardless of the type of anchor attached to the end). To that end, I
usually anchor only as a last resort. Mooring buoys or permanent
floats are far less destructive on the seafloor than a non-stop
"plowing" by a series of pleasure boats every summer. I often wonder
why some boaters who would be among the quickest to self identify as
"green" are among those who will pass up an available mooring buoy and
drag 50 feet of chain across the bottom in the interest of saving $10
or so.

By the way, thanks for the links. :-)



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