trailer setup
 

Need help with the proper procedure for adjusting a trailer to a
boat. Thinking:
1. Adjust boat height (raise / lower bunk boards until winch cable is
parallel to trailer frame)
2. Adjust tongue weight (boat position front to rear... careful that
no more than eight inches of boat is extending beyond the rear of the
bunks)
3. Adjust 'bow guide' or 'keel support' to 'fit'
4. Adjust 'bow stop' or 'V block' or 'Y stop' to 'fit'

As you can see I'm struggling a little with terminology for the
components.

I've searched for procedures with no luck.. please pass on comments.

trailer setup
 

tapenick wrote:
Need help with the proper procedure for adjusting a trailer to a
boat. Thinking:
1. Adjust boat height (raise / lower bunk boards until winch cable is
parallel to trailer frame)
-snip-
please pass on comments.

Skip the bunk boards. Lower/lower the winch.

Rick

trailer setup
 

PhantMan wrote:
Lower/lower the winch.

ooops... Raise/lower the winch.

trailer setup
 

trailer setup
 

On Jul 13, 10:44 am, wrote:
PhantMan wrote:
Lower/lower the winch.

ooops... Raise/lower the winch.


Was leaning toward the bunk boards because raising / lowering the
winch will require cutting / welding. Thoughts?

trailer setup
 

tapenick wrote:
Was leaning toward the bunk boards because raising / lowering the
winch will require cutting / welding. Thoughts?

Generally, a winch is easily raised/lowered on its stand by
loosening/tightening a few bolts. The need for Cutting/welding
certainly complicates matters. Depending on the value of the trailer,
I might consider buying a new (adjustable) winch stand.

Me, I prefer to keep my boat as low as possible for stability
purposes. But that;s just me.

Rick

trailer setup
 

wrote in message
...
tapenick wrote:
Was leaning toward the bunk boards because raising / lowering the
winch will require cutting / welding. Thoughts?

Generally, a winch is easily raised/lowered on its stand by
loosening/tightening a few bolts. The need for Cutting/welding
certainly complicates matters. Depending on the value of the trailer,
I might consider buying a new (adjustable) winch stand.

Me, I prefer to keep my boat as low as possible for stability
purposes. But that;s just me.

Rick

Although I do not trailer during the season the boat is on trailer over the
winter. Our SUV sits very low in the back when pulling the boat, indicating
a heavy tongue weight.

I would like to correct this before the boat goes back on the trailer at the
end of this season.

The original poster indicated that it is OK to have the transom/stern
unsupported up to 8 inches. Right now our bunks end at the transom. How
much of the transom/ transom can be *safely* unsupported by the bunks for
winter (long term) storage?

trailer setup
 

JimH wrote:
wrote in message
...
tapenick wrote:
Was leaning toward the bunk boards because raising / lowering the
winch will require cutting / welding. Thoughts?
Generally, a winch is easily raised/lowered on its stand by
loosening/tightening a few bolts. The need for Cutting/welding
certainly complicates matters. Depending on the value of the trailer,
I might consider buying a new (adjustable) winch stand.

Me, I prefer to keep my boat as low as possible for stability
purposes. But that;s just me.

Rick

Although I do not trailer during the season the boat is on trailer over the
winter. Our SUV sits very low in the back when pulling the boat, indicating
a heavy tongue weight.

I would like to correct this before the boat goes back on the trailer at the
end of this season.

The original poster indicated that it is OK to have the transom/stern
unsupported up to 8 inches. Right now our bunks end at the transom. How
much of the transom/ transom can be *safely* unsupported by the bunks for
winter (long term) storage?



For storage? I have no idea but my guess is it probably doesn't matter.
I've seen bigger boats in dry rack storage with the transoms unsupported.

For trailering, I wouldn't have an inch of transom unsupported. I use a
transom save as added insurance. There is just too much stress on the
transom while trailering.

Dan

trailer setup
 

"JimH" wrote:
The original poster indicated that it is OK to have the transom/stern
unsupported up to 8 inches. Right now our bunks end at the transom. How
much of the transom/ transom can be *safely* unsupported by the bunks for
winter (long term) storage?

I'm assuming your boat is an outboard, right? I wouldn't leave even 8
inches unsupported. In fact, I'd go even further and say don't let the
bunks stick out any further than necessary past the trailer frame.

I'd move the axle forward.

On the other hand, since you're only storing it, you might get away
with blocking under the transom (or engine bracket) and cranking up on
the tongue jack thus supporting much transom weight with the ground.
That arrangement might be a pain in the butt if you used the boat
often but if it just sits there all winter, what the hey.

Just a thought.

Rick

trailer setup
 

wrote in message
...
"JimH" wrote:
The original poster indicated that it is OK to have the transom/stern
unsupported up to 8 inches. Right now our bunks end at the transom. How
much of the transom/ transom can be *safely* unsupported by the bunks for
winter (long term) storage?

I'm assuming your boat is an outboard, right?


No. It is an I/O.



I wouldn't leave even 8
inches unsupported. In fact, I'd go even further and say don't let the
bunks stick out any further than necessary past the trailer frame.

I'd move the axle forward.

On the other hand, since you're only storing it, you might get away
with blocking under the transom (or engine bracket) and cranking up on
the tongue jack thus supporting much transom weight with the ground.
That arrangement might be a pain in the butt if you used the boat
often but if it just sits there all winter, what the hey.


Please explain.



Just a thought.

Rick

trailer setup
 

PhantMan:
I'm assuming your boat is an outboard, right?

"JimH" wrote:
No. It is an I/O.

Then you don't have as much weight bearing directly on the transom and
can get away with hanging a little more transom out there unsupported.
A straight inboard might get away with even less transom support.
Don't get me wrong, I'm not advocating removing any available support.
Just pointing out that one requires more support than another.

On the other hand, since you're only storing it, you might get away
with blocking under the transom (or engine bracket) and cranking up on
the tongue jack thus supporting much transom weight with the ground.

Please explain.

A boat can develop a "hook" in its bottom after years of storage with
unsupported weight on its transom. Yes, outboard boats are commonly
stored in racks like that but that doesn't make it a good idea
especially when there's a simple alternative.

What I'm talking about is putting a concrete block with a few wood
blocks stacked directly under the transom, before you disconnect the
trailer tongue from the hitch. Then disconnect and crank up the jack.
The transom will lower itself onto the blocks and you've just
supported the transom weight with the ground instead of leaving it
hanging. - pretty simple-

Is that what you meant by "please explain"?

Rick

trailer setup
 

wrote in message
...
PhantMan:
I'm assuming your boat is an outboard, right?

"JimH" wrote:
No. It is an I/O.

Then you don't have as much weight bearing directly on the transom and
can get away with hanging a little more transom out there unsupported.
A straight inboard might get away with even less transom support.
Don't get me wrong, I'm not advocating removing any available support.
Just pointing out that one requires more support than another.

On the other hand, since you're only storing it, you might get away
with blocking under the transom (or engine bracket) and cranking up on
the tongue jack thus supporting much transom weight with the ground.

Please explain.

A boat can develop a "hook" in its bottom after years of storage with
unsupported weight on its transom. Yes, outboard boats are commonly
stored in racks like that but that doesn't make it a good idea
especially when there's a simple alternative.

What I'm talking about is putting a concrete block with a few wood
blocks stacked directly under the transom, before you disconnect the
trailer tongue from the hitch. Then disconnect and crank up the jack.
The transom will lower itself onto the blocks and you've just
supported the transom weight with the ground instead of leaving it
hanging. - pretty simple-

Is that what you meant by "please explain"?

Yes. But how does that solve my overweight at the tongue with the boat on
the trailer?

My goal is to take weight off the tongue while providing good bunk support
to the stern/transom.

trailer setup
 

PhantMan:
you've just
supported the transom weight with the ground instead of leaving it
hanging. - pretty simple-
Is that what you meant by "please explain"?

"JimH" wrote:
Yes. But how does that solve my overweight at the tongue with the boat on
the trailer?
My goal is to take weight off the tongue while providing good bunk support
to the stern/transom.

The best solution is to move the trailer axle forward on the frame.
Normally, I'd say that's the only solution.
But since you only use the trailer for storage, and if you don't want
to go to any trouble or expense, a second choice could be to scoot the
boat back a little on its bunks (thus taking weight off the tongue)
and support the overhanging transom with blocks while stored. It's
cheap and easy to do, Granted, that alternative won't do any good
while trailering but with no outboard hanging off the transom, and if
you trailer the boat only twice a year (to/from storage) it may be
enough. That'd be your call.

Rick ----- if it were me though, I'd move the axle forward

trailer setup
 

"JimH" ask wrote in message
...


Yes. But how does that solve my overweight at the tongue with the
boat on the trailer?

My goal is to take weight off the tongue while providing good bunk
support to the stern/transom.


And that's the opposite problem my trailer has. I need tongue weight.
The weight of my boat is all at the rear. I have a twin axle set up and
still can't get enough tongue weight to keep the trailer from jerking me
around.

Since it's an old trailer I'm waiting to return to work then buy a new
trailer that will handle the weight distribution better. The other
option is to lengthen the trailer tongue which it needs badly to start
with and to remove the present axle and install a new single axle
further back on the frame. That's a lot cheaper than a new salt water
trailer but at 40 plus years old this painted steal trailer probably
won't last long. It had been used in fresh water only as a storage
trailer.


John

trailer setup
 

"Midlant" wrote:
I need tongue weight.
The weight of my boat is all at the rear. I have a twin axle set up and
still can't get enough tongue weight

Is the winch stand as far forward as it will go?

option is to lengthen the trailer tongue which it needs badly to start
with and to remove the present axle and install a new single axle
further back on the frame.

A longer tongue is a fairly cheap and easy fix. If that's what you
need to be able to move your winch stand forward, I'd try that first.
You may not need to move or replace your axles.

at 40 plus years old this painted steal trailer probably
won't last long. It had been used in fresh water only as a storage
trailer.

Yep, well.... all things come to an end. That'd be a judgment call on
your part. When I replace an older trailer with a new one, I hang onto
to the old one and just stick it under a smaller boat lol!

Rick

trailer setup
 

wrote in message
...

Is the winch stand as far forward as it will go?

Yes. I can't have the tailgate down and turn the trailer its so close.


A longer tongue is a fairly cheap and easy fix. If that's what you
need to be able to move your winch stand forward, I'd try that first.
You may not need to move or replace your axles.

I need to extend teh tongue. My neighbor has the exact length channel I
need but still want a smaller tubing to place inside at each end to weld
to for strength. With the tongue extended I could slide the winch
forward, but I only have about a 3" over hang of transom now. As soon
as I come across a good pice of metal to use as an underlying piece for
adding in the tongue, I'll be cutting and welding.


at 40 plus years old this painted steal trailer probably
won't last long. It had been used in fresh water only as a storage
trailer.

Yep, well.... all things come to an end. That'd be a judgment call on
your part. When I replace an older trailer with a new one, I hang onto
to the old one and just stick it under a smaller boat lol!

Rick

trailer setup
 

Midlant wrote:
wrote in message
...
Is the winch stand as far forward as it will go?

Yes. I can't have the tailgate down and turn the trailer its so close.


A longer tongue is a fairly cheap and easy fix. If that's what you
need to be able to move your winch stand forward, I'd try that first.
You may not need to move or replace your axles.

I need to extend teh tongue. My neighbor has the exact length channel I
need but still want a smaller tubing to place inside at each end to weld
to for strength. With the tongue extended I could slide the winch
forward, but I only have about a 3" over hang of transom now. As soon
as I come across a good pice of metal to use as an underlying piece for
adding in the tongue, I'll be cutting and welding.


at 40 plus years old this painted steal trailer probably
won't last long. It had been used in fresh water only as a storage
trailer.
Yep, well.... all things come to an end. That'd be a judgment call on
your part. When I replace an older trailer with a new one, I hang onto
to the old one and just stick it under a smaller boat lol!

Rick



You said extending the tongue was an alternative to a new trailer. A
painted steel trailer that old will have other problems sooner than
later. The springs and hubs are usually the first to go. If the
extension is a temporary fix that's one thing but a new trailer is still
in your future. If you are boating in sal****er now (it sounded like
you are) then you should also consider aluminum trailers. They still
have galvanized parts and the springs, axles, and hubs will to be
thoroughly rinsed with fresh water after every trip.

Personally, I would replace it and spare the time and expense of a
temporary repair.

Dan

trailer setup
 

I plan on buying a new trailer but I need to return to work to have
income to do that. In the mean time I'm enjoying my time off and using
what I have.
It only takes me 4 gallons of gas to go out fishing and back.
John


"Dan" wrote in message
ink.net...
Midlant wrote:
wrote in message
...
Is the winch stand as far forward as it will go?

Yes. I can't have the tailgate down and turn the trailer its so
close.


A longer tongue is a fairly cheap and easy fix. If that's what you
need to be able to move your winch stand forward, I'd try that
first.
You may not need to move or replace your axles.

I need to extend teh tongue. My neighbor has the exact length channel
I need but still want a smaller tubing to place inside at each end to
weld to for strength. With the tongue extended I could slide the
winch forward, but I only have about a 3" over hang of transom now.
As soon as I come across a good pice of metal to use as an underlying
piece for adding in the tongue, I'll be cutting and welding.


at 40 plus years old this painted steal trailer probably
won't last long. It had been used in fresh water only as a storage
trailer.
Yep, well.... all things come to an end. That'd be a judgment call
on
your part. When I replace an older trailer with a new one, I hang
onto
to the old one and just stick it under a smaller boat lol!

Rick



You said extending the tongue was an alternative to a new trailer. A
painted steel trailer that old will have other problems sooner than
later. The springs and hubs are usually the first to go. If the
extension is a temporary fix that's one thing but a new trailer is
still in your future. If you are boating in sal****er now (it sounded
like you are) then you should also consider aluminum trailers. They
still have galvanized parts and the springs, axles, and hubs will to
be thoroughly rinsed with fresh water after every trip.

Personally, I would replace it and spare the time and expense of a
temporary repair.

Dan

trailer setup
 

Midlant wrote:
I plan on buying a new trailer but I need to return to work to have
income to do that. In the mean time I'm enjoying my time off and using
what I have.
It only takes me 4 gallons of gas to go out fishing and back.
John





Check the champion trailer site. They have the steel you probably need
in different sizes, including pieces that will nest inside one another.

trailer setup
 

"JimH" ask wrote in message
...

wrote in message
...
tapenick wrote:
Was leaning toward the bunk boards because raising / lowering the
winch will require cutting / welding. Thoughts?

Generally, a winch is easily raised/lowered on its stand by
loosening/tightening a few bolts. The need for Cutting/welding
certainly complicates matters. Depending on the value of the trailer,
I might consider buying a new (adjustable) winch stand.

Me, I prefer to keep my boat as low as possible for stability
purposes. But that;s just me.

Rick

Although I do not trailer during the season the boat is on trailer over
the winter. Our SUV sits very low in the back when pulling the boat,
indicating a heavy tongue weight.

I would like to correct this before the boat goes back on the trailer at
the end of this season.

The original poster indicated that it is OK to have the transom/stern
unsupported up to 8 inches. Right now our bunks end at the transom. How
much of the transom/ transom can be *safely* unsupported by the bunks for
winter (long term) storage?


Move the axles. Just measure from the back and make sure both sides are the
same. IF the boat is at the back of the bunks, that part is OK and you do
not need to move a winch stand.

trailer setup
 

"Calif Bill" wrote in message
ink.net...


Move the axles. Just measure from the back and make sure both sides
are the same. IF the boat is at the back of the bunks, that part is
OK and you do not need to move a winch stand.

Easier said than done. That involved cutting off the tabs and welding on
new ones.

trailer setup
 

"Midlant" wrote in message
...

"Calif Bill" wrote in message
ink.net...


Move the axles. Just measure from the back and make sure both sides are
the same. IF the boat is at the back of the bunks, that part is OK and
you do not need to move a winch stand.

Easier said than done. That involved cutting off the tabs and welding on
new ones.



My spring hangers are attached with U bolts. Just loosen the U bolts and
slide the axles.

trailer setup
 

"Calif Bill" wrote:
Move the axles. Just measure from the back and make sure both sides are
the same. IF the boat is at the back of the bunks, that part is OK and
you do not need to move a winch stand.

"Midlant" wrote
Easier said than done. That involved cutting off the tabs and welding on
new ones.

"Calif Bill":
My spring hangers are attached with U bolts. Just loosen the U bolts and
slide the axles.

Not all trailers have adjustable axles.
I don't know why, but some just don't.

Rick