Prop clearance specs?
 

I have a alpha1 gen II outdrive.
As some of you know; I'm trying to reprop -- found a shop nearby that
rents demo props. They gave mea 15" prop (diameter) but I didn't try it as the
clearance between the prop blade edge and the cavetation plate was less than a
wire-coat hanger.

They said "it improves performance, use it anyway" My gut says that the
clearance is so small that it's begging for damage from a twig in the water.

Two people (one I consider knowledgeable and one from a shop I use regularly)
said "that's not enough clearance, should be about 10% of the prop diameter"

To me - -this sounds reasonable.

So; since the shop with the demo props doesn't want (for unknown reasons) to
give me a 14 or 14.5 diameter prop, I'm stuck with buying a new one; for that
reason; I'm looking to the NG for people that have "almost no clearance" between
the blade & the cavetation plate to see real-world experiences.

We're talking a SS prop. If I guy a prop; I'll probably go with aluminum 1st
(cheaper) while I experiement and then go SS once I settle on size & pitch &
blade count.

Thanks
-j

Prop clearance specs?
 

On Sat, 12 May 2007 11:47:05 -0700, Josh Assing
wrote:

Two people (one I consider knowledgeable and one from a shop I use regularly)
said "that's not enough clearance, should be about 10% of the prop diameter"

And ten percent of a 15 inch diameter prop would be what?

That is way to close for a number of reasons including cavitation.

What you are looking for is a 14.5/21p or thereabouts - might need a
19p - doubt if you will need a 23.

Prop clearance specs?
 

And ten percent of a 15 inch diameter prop would be what?

exactly - -it's not 3 mm


That is way to close for a number of reasons including cavitation.

that's what I thought -- the demo-prop-shop said "it will increase performance
by directing more water aft rather than up" seemed snake-oilish to me.


What you are looking for is a 14.5/21p or thereabouts - might need a
19p - doubt if you will need a 23.
well; wrong way -- I have 19pitch now; need to go down in pitch to 17 or 16.
(wot now = 4100, need to get it to 4400-4600)

Thanks
-j

Prop clearance specs?
 

"Josh Assing" wrote
My gut says that the clearance is so small that it's
begging for damage from a twig in the water.

Twigs care not for clearance. I have about an inch between my prop and
cavitation plate (which, I must point out is technically an anti-ventilation
plate). I hit a small twig a couple years ago and took a big chunk out of
said plate. http://users.adelphia.net/~blizzard3...ges/break2.jpg

Prop clearance specs?
 

On Sat, 12 May 2007 17:08:02 -0400, Gene Kearns
wrote:

On Sat, 12 May 2007 19:44:03 GMT, Short Wave Sportfishing penned the
following well considered thoughts to the readers of rec.boats:

On Sat, 12 May 2007 11:47:05 -0700, Josh Assing
wrote:

Two people (one I consider knowledgeable and one from a shop I use regularly)
said "that's not enough clearance, should be about 10% of the prop diameter"

And ten percent of a 15 inch diameter prop would be what?

That is way to close for a number of reasons including cavitation.

What you are looking for is a 14.5/21p or thereabouts - might need a
19p - doubt if you will need a 23.

1.5 inches? Mine is 1 inch with a 13.25 inch prop.

Suzuki puts a 14 inch prop on the same engine.... so, I'm figuring
that they are OK with 5/8 of an inch....

Yeah - I didn't quite say that correctly. In fact, I thought 1.5
inches was a little much - as in 10% seemed like a lot.

On the ETEC, it's a half inch.

Prop clearance specs?
 

On Sat, 12 May 2007 13:40:08 -0700, Josh Assing
wrote:

And ten percent of a 15 inch diameter prop would be what?

exactly - -it's not 3 mm


That is way to close for a number of reasons including cavitation.

that's what I thought -- the demo-prop-shop said "it will increase performance
by directing more water aft rather than up" seemed snake-oilish to me.


What you are looking for is a 14.5/21p or thereabouts - might need a
19p - doubt if you will need a 23.
well; wrong way -- I have 19pitch now; need to go down in pitch to 17 or 16.
(wot now = 4100, need to get it to 4400-4600)

Whoops - sorry - read that wrong. My bad.

I think you are probably close on that, but you might want to consider
having the rpm checked using a meter directly off the engine. I know
when I swapped engines on the Ranger, we couldn't get 5400 top end out
of the gage on the dash, but when we looked at the EMM, it was 5400 on
the nose. It was about the same RPM range you noted.

Threw a new RPM gage in the dash - presto.

Just something to think about.

Prop clearance specs?
 

I've never had a tach go bad -- but I'll check it out with my old analog meter
and see what it ways...

On Sun, 13 May 2007 11:00:35 GMT, Short Wave Sportfishing
wrote:

On Sat, 12 May 2007 13:40:08 -0700, Josh Assing
wrote:

And ten percent of a 15 inch diameter prop would be what?

exactly - -it's not 3 mm


That is way to close for a number of reasons including cavitation.

that's what I thought -- the demo-prop-shop said "it will increase performance
by directing more water aft rather than up" seemed snake-oilish to me.


What you are looking for is a 14.5/21p or thereabouts - might need a
19p - doubt if you will need a 23.
well; wrong way -- I have 19pitch now; need to go down in pitch to 17 or 16.
(wot now = 4100, need to get it to 4400-4600)

Whoops - sorry - read that wrong. My bad.

I think you are probably close on that, but you might want to consider
having the rpm checked using a meter directly off the engine. I know
when I swapped engines on the Ranger, we couldn't get 5400 top end out
of the gage on the dash, but when we looked at the EMM, it was 5400 on
the nose. It was about the same RPM range you noted.

Threw a new RPM gage in the dash - presto.

Just something to think about.

Prop clearance specs?
 

Yikes; well; I still have my plate complete, save for a crack...
Still a coat hanger is what, a few mm's at most? heat up a prop and get it
spinning -- seems that space would be taken up in no time.

On Sat, 12 May 2007 23:15:46 -0400, "Ernest Scribbler"
wrote:

"Josh Assing" wrote
My gut says that the clearance is so small that it's
begging for damage from a twig in the water.

Twigs care not for clearance. I have about an inch between my prop and
cavitation plate (which, I must point out is technically an anti-ventilation
plate). I hit a small twig a couple years ago and took a big chunk out of
said plate. http://users.adelphia.net/~blizzard3...ges/break2.jpg

Prop clearance specs?
 

Are you completely sure the motor is running at it's best? You didn't give
much info but I'm thinking at one time the prop you have on it may have been
correct. I agree about the size, you want something between 14 and 14.5. I
think the 15s were common on the bravos. If you want to experiment buy used
props off ebay. You can resell them for about what you paid for them.

"Josh Assing" wrote in message
...
I've never had a tach go bad -- but I'll check it out with my old analog
meter
and see what it ways...

On Sun, 13 May 2007 11:00:35 GMT, Short Wave Sportfishing

wrote:

On Sat, 12 May 2007 13:40:08 -0700, Josh Assing
wrote:

And ten percent of a 15 inch diameter prop would be what?

exactly - -it's not 3 mm


That is way to close for a number of reasons including cavitation.

that's what I thought -- the demo-prop-shop said "it will increase
performance
by directing more water aft rather than up" seemed snake-oilish to me.


What you are looking for is a 14.5/21p or thereabouts - might need a
19p - doubt if you will need a 23.
well; wrong way -- I have 19pitch now; need to go down in pitch to 17 or
16.
(wot now = 4100, need to get it to 4400-4600)

Whoops - sorry - read that wrong. My bad.

I think you are probably close on that, but you might want to consider
having the rpm checked using a meter directly off the engine. I know
when I swapped engines on the Ranger, we couldn't get 5400 top end out
of the gage on the dash, but when we looked at the EMM, it was 5400 on
the nose. It was about the same RPM range you noted.

Threw a new RPM gage in the dash - presto.

Just something to think about.

Prop clearance specs?
 

On Mon, 14 May 2007 12:02:21 GMT, "jamesgangnc"
wrote:

Are you completely sure the motor is running at it's best? You didn't give
much info but I'm thinking at one time the prop you have on it may have been
correct. I agree about the size, you want something between 14 and 14.5. I
think the 15s were common on the bravos. If you want to experiment buy used
props off ebay. You can resell them for about what you paid for them.

That was my thought - something ain't right there.

Good idea on that eBay thing - although I'm not much of a eBay type.

Anybody know how selling on eBay works - per chance?

I've never done it, but I've got some motorcycle parts from my
youngest's GSX R600 - stock parts - that I want to get rid of, sell,
swap - whatever.

Prop clearance specs?
 

"Short Wave Sportfishing" wrote in message
...
On Mon, 14 May 2007 12:02:21 GMT, "jamesgangnc"
wrote:

Are you completely sure the motor is running at it's best? You didn't
give
much info but I'm thinking at one time the prop you have on it may have
been
correct. I agree about the size, you want something between 14 and 14.5.
I
think the 15s were common on the bravos. If you want to experiment buy
used
props off ebay. You can resell them for about what you paid for them.

That was my thought - something ain't right there.

Good idea on that eBay thing - although I'm not much of a eBay type.

Anybody know how selling on eBay works - per chance?

I've never done it, but I've got some motorcycle parts from my
youngest's GSX R600 - stock parts - that I want to get rid of, sell,
swap - whatever.

I can walk you through it if you still need help. Let me know and I will
email you my phone number.

Prop clearance specs?
 

On May 12, 11:47 am, Josh Assing wrote:
I have a alpha1 gen II outdrive.
As some of you know; I'm trying to reprop -- found a shop nearby that
rents demo props. They gave mea 15" prop (diameter) but I didn't try it as the
clearance between the prop blade edge and the cavetation plate was less than a
wire-coat hanger.

They said "it improves performance, use it anyway" My gut says that the
clearance is so small that it's begging for damage from a twig in the water.

Two people (one I consider knowledgeable and one from a shop I use regularly)
said "that's not enough clearance, should be about 10% of the prop diameter"

To me - -this sounds reasonable.

So; since the shop with the demo props doesn't want (for unknown reasons) to
give me a 14 or 14.5 diameter prop, I'm stuck with buying a new one; for that
reason; I'm looking to the NG for people that have "almost no clearance" between
the blade & the cavetation plate to see real-world experiences.

We're talking a SS prop. If I guy a prop; I'll probably go with aluminum 1st
(cheaper) while I experiement and then go SS once I settle on size & pitch &
blade count.

Thanks
-j

You might want to consider reducing your trial and error process time
by visiting the Michigan Wheel site and supplying the particulars of
your specific boat. That will let you know what Michigan Wheel would
recommend, and they likely know more about what prop is ideal for your
specific setup than even most knowledgeable prop shops.

http://www.miwheel.com/MIWheel/propit/main.htm

Prop clearance specs?
 

Are you completely sure the motor is running at it's best? You didn't give

Considering it has 420 hours on it -- it's definately NOT running at it's best.
it is, however, running as best as it can w/o a full rebuild.

much info but I'm thinking at one time the prop you have on it may have been
correct. I agree about the size, you want something between 14 and 14.5. I

I'm assuming the boat came from the factory with the correct prop. Since I
doubt it came from the factory with a SS prop, we can assume one of the previous
owners changed it to this one -- which is incorrect.

a 14.5 would fit, the 15 just seems way too close to the plate.

thanks
-josh


think the 15s were common on the bravos. If you want to experiment buy used
props off ebay. You can resell them for about what you paid for them.

"Josh Assing" wrote in message
.. .
I've never had a tach go bad -- but I'll check it out with my old analog
meter
and see what it ways...

On Sun, 13 May 2007 11:00:35 GMT, Short Wave Sportfishing

wrote:

On Sat, 12 May 2007 13:40:08 -0700, Josh Assing
wrote:

And ten percent of a 15 inch diameter prop would be what?

exactly - -it's not 3 mm


That is way to close for a number of reasons including cavitation.

that's what I thought -- the demo-prop-shop said "it will increase
performance
by directing more water aft rather than up" seemed snake-oilish to me.


What you are looking for is a 14.5/21p or thereabouts - might need a
19p - doubt if you will need a 23.
well; wrong way -- I have 19pitch now; need to go down in pitch to 17 or
16.
(wot now = 4100, need to get it to 4400-4600)

Whoops - sorry - read that wrong. My bad.

I think you are probably close on that, but you might want to consider
having the rpm checked using a meter directly off the engine. I know
when I swapped engines on the Ranger, we couldn't get 5400 top end out
of the gage on the dash, but when we looked at the EMM, it was 5400 on
the nose. It was about the same RPM range you noted.

Threw a new RPM gage in the dash - presto.

Just something to think about.

Prop clearance specs?
 

On 14 May 2007 08:18:41 -0700, Chuck Gould wrote:


You might want to consider reducing your trial and error process time
by visiting the Michigan Wheel site and supplying the particulars of
your specific boat. That will let you know what Michigan Wheel would
recommend, and they likely know more about what prop is ideal for your
specific setup than even most knowledgeable prop shops.



I *have* used that -- it says a 14.5x21 is what I need - however, it doesn't ask
me anything about my current performance, unlike the mercury prop site.

Anyway; -- I can't find a 14.5" x 17 prop that is a good performer -- I'm
getting ready to buy a 15x17 prop and have the blades shaved down a 1/4 inch...

Prop clearance specs?
 

On May 12, 3:44 pm, Short Wave Sportfishing wrote:
On Sat, 12 May 2007 11:47:05 -0700, Josh Assing
wrote:

Two people (one I consider knowledgeable and one from a shop I use regularly)
said "that's not enough clearance, should be about 10% of the prop diameter"

And ten percent of a 15 inch diameter prop would be what?

1.5"

Prop clearance specs?
 

Rebuild after 420 hours? What is this a cast aluminum Briggs and
Stratton?

I didn't say it NEEDED a rebuild; I'm saying the only way to get it to run
better would be for a full rebuild....

The boat runs fine -- doesn't leak or burn oil.
It has good even compression.

the engine isn't the issue.

Prop clearance specs?
 

On May 15, 9:04 am, Josh Assing wrote:
On 14 May 2007 08:18:41 -0700, Chuck Gould wrote:

You might want to consider reducing your trial and error process time
by visiting the Michigan Wheel site and supplying the particulars of
your specific boat. That will let you know what Michigan Wheel would
recommend, and they likely know more about what prop is ideal for your
specific setup than even most knowledgeable prop shops.

I *have* used that -- it says a 14.5x21 is what I need - however, it doesn't ask
me anything about my current performance, unlike the mercury prop site.

Anyway; -- I can't find a 14.5" x 17 prop that is a good performer -- I'm
getting ready to buy a 15x17 prop and have the blades shaved down a 1/4 inch...

You can't find a 14 or 14.5 by 17 prop???? That's a little hard to
believe.

Doing anything to an ss prop with be about $150. I think you ought to
look a little harder for the right prop to start with.

Prop clearance specs?
 

On May 16, 7:55 am, jamesgangnc wrote:
On May 15, 9:04 am, Josh Assing wrote:

On 14 May 2007 08:18:41 -0700, Chuck Gould wrote:

You might want to consider reducing your trial and error process time
by visiting the Michigan Wheel site and supplying the particulars of
your specific boat. That will let you know what Michigan Wheel would
recommend, and they likely know more about what prop is ideal for your
specific setup than even most knowledgeable prop shops.

I *have* used that -- it says a 14.5x21 is what I need - however, it doesn't ask
me anything about my current performance, unlike the mercury prop site.

Anyway; -- I can't find a 14.5" x 17 prop that is a good performer -- I'm
getting ready to buy a 15x17 prop and have the blades shaved down a 1/4 inch...

You can't find a 14 or 14.5 by 17 prop???? That's a little hard to
believe.

Doing anything to an ss prop with be about $150. I think you ought to
look a little harder for the right prop to start with.

Just out of curiosity. What rpm are you turning at wot with the prop
you have? And what engine do you have?

Prop clearance specs?
 

Just out of curiosity. What rpm are you turning at wot with the prop
you have? And what engine do you have?

4100 RPM -- should be 4400-4600
That's in a PERFECT day.. flat water, no weight, etc etc etc.
Hole shot sucks.

5.7 gm based mercruiser (350ci) Alpha1 1.47ratio, 19" pitch 3 blade

Regarding the prop -- yes; I can find a 14" 17pitch prop; but they're on the
cheaper side of performance... When I get into 4 blades, they seem to get bigger
as the pitch is decreased.

I'm sure I'll find it.. the prop shop said they wouldn't charge me much to take
some off the edge if I need them to; so I'll probably go with an aluminum and
have them shave it if needed.

-j

Prop clearance specs?
 

Josh Assing wrote:
Just out of curiosity. What rpm are you turning at wot with the prop
you have? And what engine do you have?


4100 RPM -- should be 4400-4600
That's in a PERFECT day.. flat water, no weight, etc etc etc.
Hole shot sucks.

5.7 gm based mercruiser (350ci) Alpha1 1.47ratio, 19" pitch 3 blade

Regarding the prop -- yes; I can find a 14" 17pitch prop; but they're on the
cheaper side of performance... When I get into 4 blades, they seem to get bigger
as the pitch is decreased.

I'm sure I'll find it.. the prop shop said they wouldn't charge me much to take
some off the edge if I need them to; so I'll probably go with an aluminum and
have them shave it if needed.

-j


I am running props from these guys.

http://www.propcopropellers.com/information.htm

Since you have a merc

http://www.propcopropellers.com/mercruiser_Props.htm

they use a traditional rubber hub.

Good Luck

Capt Jack R..

Prop clearance specs?
 

And you like it? How does it compare with a regular prop?
they do have a 17 in 3 & 4 blades that'd fit / work for me.

-josh


On Thu, 17 May 2007 02:32:35 GMT, Jack Redington
wrote:

Josh Assing wrote:
Just out of curiosity. What rpm are you turning at wot with the prop
you have? And what engine do you have?


4100 RPM -- should be 4400-4600
That's in a PERFECT day.. flat water, no weight, etc etc etc.
Hole shot sucks.

5.7 gm based mercruiser (350ci) Alpha1 1.47ratio, 19" pitch 3 blade

Regarding the prop -- yes; I can find a 14" 17pitch prop; but they're on the
cheaper side of performance... When I get into 4 blades, they seem to get bigger
as the pitch is decreased.

I'm sure I'll find it.. the prop shop said they wouldn't charge me much to take
some off the edge if I need them to; so I'll probably go with an aluminum and
have them shave it if needed.

-j


I am running props from these guys.

http://www.propcopropellers.com/information.htm

Since you have a merc

http://www.propcopropellers.com/mercruiser_Props.htm

they use a traditional rubber hub.

Good Luck

Capt Jack R..

Prop clearance specs?
 

On Wed, 16 May 2007 20:35:58 -0700, Josh Assing
wrote:

And you like it? How does it compare with a regular prop?
they do have a 17 in 3 & 4 blades that'd fit / work for me.

Not sure if I mentioned this before but my old 24 footer with a 5.7L
was very similar to yours. It was fine with either a 3 bladed 15 x 17
or a 14 1/2 x 17. On balance I liked the 14 1/2 slightly better.

Prop clearance specs?
 

capt_jack wrote:
I am running props from these guys.
http://www.propcopropellers.com/information.htm

What do they mean by their web page statement "you also get virtually
unbreakable cushion hubs and the strongest in the industry" ???

I think that would worry me a little.

(I've always counted on my hub, since the days of shear pins, to
sacrifice themselves for the protection of my drive train parts &
pieces)

Rick

Prop clearance specs?
 

Josh Assing wrote:
And you like it? How does it compare with a regular prop?
they do have a 17 in 3 & 4 blades that'd fit / work for me.

-josh


I had been running the traditional merc props before I went with these
guys. So that is the only type I can really compair them against. Finish
is excellent and they are very smooth running. On my current bowrider I
have used their 19 inch 14.5 aluminum and currently have a stainless of
the same size.

The boat is a Crownline 225 w/5.7 efi rated at 280hp w/a Alpha genII
leg. This give the boat good hole shot for skiiers and the boat tops out
in the 50's on the speedo. That is alot faster then I care to run it. To
me the hole shot is more important.

They are made locally in Georgia, thus they are not cheep a imported
type. I will switch back to the aluminum if we have a dry summer as
predicted and the lake get as low as it did last year.

I like the traditional rubber hub over the merc plastic core type. But
that I guess is just a personal preference. I really can't think of why
I would try anything else.

I hope this helps, good luck on your search. Oh the local Bass pro Shop
carries them. But I have always purchased mine direct at the boat show
and saved a few bucks.

On another note, When I had a Crownline 210ccr w/5.0LX merc I had tried
a four blade as well. It was a 16 as that was the smallest diameter that
merc carried at the time. All boats are different so it is hard to say
if the results would be even close. But it tended to made the stern run
higher resluting in a rather flat running angle on this boat. So I went
back to a three blade. since the boat had tabs It was easy to bring the
back up if the cod=nditions made it desireable.

Capt Jack R..


On Thu, 17 May 2007 02:32:35 GMT, Jack Redington
wrote:


Josh Assing wrote:

Just out of curiosity. What rpm are you turning at wot with the prop
you have? And what engine do you have?


4100 RPM -- should be 4400-4600
That's in a PERFECT day.. flat water, no weight, etc etc etc.
Hole shot sucks.

5.7 gm based mercruiser (350ci) Alpha1 1.47ratio, 19" pitch 3 blade

Regarding the prop -- yes; I can find a 14" 17pitch prop; but they're on the
cheaper side of performance... When I get into 4 blades, they seem to get bigger
as the pitch is decreased.

I'm sure I'll find it.. the prop shop said they wouldn't charge me much to take
some off the edge if I need them to; so I'll probably go with an aluminum and
have them shave it if needed.

-j



I am running props from these guys.

http://www.propcopropellers.com/information.htm

Since you have a merc

http://www.propcopropellers.com/mercruiser_Props.htm

they use a traditional rubber hub.

Good Luck

Capt Jack R..

Prop clearance specs?
 

lid wrote:
capt_jack wrote:

I am running props from these guys.
http://www.propcopropellers.com/information.htm


What do they mean by their web page statement "you also get virtually
unbreakable cushion hubs and the strongest in the industry" ???

I think that would worry me a little.

(I've always counted on my hub, since the days of shear pins, to
sacrifice themselves for the protection of my drive train parts &
pieces)

Rick

They use a traditional rubber hub. I would guess they are compareing
them to the plastic core types. They are suppose to break free on a hard
strike. Last year I "tapped" one on the top of a submerged tree - on my
part of lake Hartwell there are alot of and bent one of the blades on a
aluminum wheel. Not hard enough to spin the hub. It just folded the
lower edge.

Capt Jack R..

Prop clearance specs?
 

On Fri, 18 May 07, gfretwell wrote:
I am not sure I have ever seen a rubber hub really save anything by
spinning loose.

In all my years or running outboards and I/Os, I've spun one hub
(stainless). Other hits have resulted in bent blades (bents were
aluminum). Never had drive train damage of which I'm aware. But I've
had hits that, surprisingly, didn't cause any damage even to the prop.
I don't know if I should thank the flex of the hub for that or not
but it seems so.

Whether a hub actually prevents damage or not, it's *supposed* to. And
that's why I was surprised at the wording (the meaning) on the web
page.

Rick

Prop clearance specs?
 

Thanks for the info -- I contacted them & had an almost immedeate response --
good customer service there... I was a bit hesitant as there website looks a
bit cheesy and I don't (personally) know anyone running one.
I'll probably end up buying one of there's, if, for nothing else, to try
something "different".

Good point about the tabs & a 4 blade -- I have tabs too. The BlueWater is a a
really stern heavy boat, so I think any stern lift would be good, but it does
plane out and I only use the tabs to level the ride (side to side) or tuck the
bow down when going slow (it falls of a plane easily at lower speeds)

I've decided to go aluminum over SS because of the weight & I'd rather loose a
prop than bearings or something (not to mention the price). I figure at the
price of aluminum's (even the propco one) I can buy a 3 and 4 blade cheaper than
a SS and compare the two; and keep one for a 'backup' prop.

I contacted the previous owner and he had found the "original prop" I picked it
up -- hugely beat up 3 blade 17" pitch... He went with the 19" SS "becuase they
don't flex at high speeds" and "I wanted to go faster". He clearly didn't
understand how things work -- especialy since the prop only pushed the boat 40
mph or so -- I don't think the flex/performance issue of a ss over alum. is that
great.

Thanks again
-josh

On Fri, 18 May 2007 02:55:11 GMT, Jack Redington
wrote:

Josh Assing wrote:
And you like it? How does it compare with a regular prop?
they do have a 17 in 3 & 4 blades that'd fit / work for me.

-josh


I had been running the traditional merc props before I went with these
guys. So that is the only type I can really compair them against. Finish
is excellent and they are very smooth running. On my current bowrider I
have used their 19 inch 14.5 aluminum and currently have a stainless of
the same size.

The boat is a Crownline 225 w/5.7 efi rated at 280hp w/a Alpha genII
leg. This give the boat good hole shot for skiiers and the boat tops out
in the 50's on the speedo. That is alot faster then I care to run it. To
me the hole shot is more important.

They are made locally in Georgia, thus they are not cheep a imported
type. I will switch back to the aluminum if we have a dry summer as
predicted and the lake get as low as it did last year.

I like the traditional rubber hub over the merc plastic core type. But
that I guess is just a personal preference. I really can't think of why
I would try anything else.

I hope this helps, good luck on your search. Oh the local Bass pro Shop
carries them. But I have always purchased mine direct at the boat show
and saved a few bucks.

On another note, When I had a Crownline 210ccr w/5.0LX merc I had tried
a four blade as well. It was a 16 as that was the smallest diameter that
merc carried at the time. All boats are different so it is hard to say
if the results would be even close. But it tended to made the stern run
higher resluting in a rather flat running angle on this boat. So I went
back to a three blade. since the boat had tabs It was easy to bring the
back up if the cod=nditions made it desireable.

Capt Jack R..


On Thu, 17 May 2007 02:32:35 GMT, Jack Redington
wrote:


Josh Assing wrote:

Just out of curiosity. What rpm are you turning at wot with the prop
you have? And what engine do you have?


4100 RPM -- should be 4400-4600
That's in a PERFECT day.. flat water, no weight, etc etc etc.
Hole shot sucks.

5.7 gm based mercruiser (350ci) Alpha1 1.47ratio, 19" pitch 3 blade

Regarding the prop -- yes; I can find a 14" 17pitch prop; but they're on the
cheaper side of performance... When I get into 4 blades, they seem to get bigger
as the pitch is decreased.

I'm sure I'll find it.. the prop shop said they wouldn't charge me much to take
some off the edge if I need them to; so I'll probably go with an aluminum and
have them shave it if needed.

-j



I am running props from these guys.

http://www.propcopropellers.com/information.htm

Since you have a merc

http://www.propcopropellers.com/mercruiser_Props.htm

they use a traditional rubber hub.

Good Luck

Capt Jack R..

Prop clearance specs?
 

If you are really worried buy one of those disposable plastic props
and plenty of extra blades

I've not run aground but I did hit something submerged (didn't notice it until I
tried to reprop) and it broke the anti-ventilation plate.

Because of this, I looked at the plastic/composite props (piranha etc) -- while
the idea is appealing, even the piranha site's reviews made me decide to go with
aluminum over there's for performance reasons.

-j