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Charge Batteries with 16-ampere Alternator
My boat has an alternator that has a 16-ampere stator (and voltage
regulator). Is there a formula to calculate the number of batteries that the alternator can charge? Can it charge two or four batteries all at the same time? I am asking this because my boat already has two dual purpose group-24 batteries (for starting battery and house battery), and I will add two deep-cycle batteries for trolling motor. I think this will be nice if I can use the outboard motor to recharge all four batteries when I am done with fishing and heading home. And all four batteries will be ready for next day boating/fishing trip without worrying about recharging them at night. Can this alternator handle AGM batteries instead of flood batteries? I am under the impression that AGM batteries may be accepting charge too fast that they may over-stress the alternator and overheat it (or something like that if I understand this correctly). I am wondering if this is relevant to my alternator. I am asking this because the batteries-storage area in my boat is very difficult to reach (tiny room with a tiny access door). Seem like AGM batteries will be suitable for me because they don't need as much maintenance as flood batteries - at least I don't need to physically pull them out to add water. But if they could overheat the alternator in my outboard, I would have to pass on them and choose flood batteries instead (and relocate the batteries to some place more accessible). Thanks in advance for any info on this issue. Jay Chan |
Charge Batteries with 16-ampere Alternator
That's really a very small alternator. I would suspect that while running
you don't have much more that 8 to 10 amps available for charging. The alternator has to supply the power to operate the boat as well as to charge. I would not plan on being able to bring two trolling batteries up very far at the end of the day with that configuration. I suggest you mount a good electornic charger capable of charging your both your trollling batteries at the same time you install them. Then simply plug it in when you get home. If you are going to have 2 dedicate trolling batteries you really don't need to have two additional batteries for the regular operation. One regular battery will suffice to operate the boat. You can add a simple switch to use the trolling batteries for starting in an emergency. wrote in message ups.com... My boat has an alternator that has a 16-ampere stator (and voltage regulator). Is there a formula to calculate the number of batteries that the alternator can charge? Can it charge two or four batteries all at the same time? I am asking this because my boat already has two dual purpose group-24 batteries (for starting battery and house battery), and I will add two deep-cycle batteries for trolling motor. I think this will be nice if I can use the outboard motor to recharge all four batteries when I am done with fishing and heading home. And all four batteries will be ready for next day boating/fishing trip without worrying about recharging them at night. Can this alternator handle AGM batteries instead of flood batteries? I am under the impression that AGM batteries may be accepting charge too fast that they may over-stress the alternator and overheat it (or something like that if I understand this correctly). I am wondering if this is relevant to my alternator. I am asking this because the batteries-storage area in my boat is very difficult to reach (tiny room with a tiny access door). Seem like AGM batteries will be suitable for me because they don't need as much maintenance as flood batteries - at least I don't need to physically pull them out to add water. But if they could overheat the alternator in my outboard, I would have to pass on them and choose flood batteries instead (and relocate the batteries to some place more accessible). Thanks in advance for any info on this issue. Jay Chan |
Charge Batteries with 16-ampere Alternator
On 21 Mar 2007 18:34:42 -0700, "
wrote: My boat has an alternator that has a 16-ampere stator (and voltage regulator). Is there a formula to calculate the number of batteries that the alternator can charge? Can it charge two or four batteries all at the same time? No. You will have to either up the amperage (which may not be possible) or charge the trolling batteries onshore with an external charger. As to the dual boat battery system, it won't charge both of them simultaneously - you will probably have to install an A/B switch and use one as a spare using the other as the boat battery. The start/run battery will probably draw at least 8/10 amps for the equipment on the boat plus the engine. That's doesn't give you a lot of amperage to work with for battery charging - one is about the limit. Trolling motor batteries are pretty stable over time and unless you are looking to use the trolling motor on constant duty, they will last you a good time on the water - 8 hours or so. I have a 24 Vdc system on the Ranger and the shortest I've ever had on constant duty was about six hours and that was right before I changed them. |
Charge Batteries with 16-ampere Alternator
Jay, If I remember correctly, your boat has a Mercury outboard[?]
16a. is about all you're going to get out of it total. and as far as I know,t here isn't any performance stator to give you more power. In a nutshell, the outboards charging system will charge all your batteries, but it will take quite a while. You can't expect automotive performance with that small of output. A basic rule of thumb is that if you take a 650 CCA battery that is flat dead (or almost), it will take a 10 a battery charger a good 6 hr.s to recharge it. That rule is a bit inefficient, but gives you an idea on how battery charge rates work. Of course you're not taling charging 4 dead batteries on 16a either. Another thing to consider, is that the stator builds up a lot of heat under the enclosed flywheel, and doesn't have any fan cooling. It will usually handle what it's intended for, but under extended hard loads, the Stator gets really hot, and burns off the enamel insulation on the stator wires, and shorts them out, then it doesn't charge at all untill you get the Stator replaced. Not handy, and not cheap. But if you really feel you need to go this rout, instead of going with a battery isolator I'd go with a battery switch where you can pick and choose which set of batteries you need to charge . the problem with battery isolators, is that because they use heavy diodes, is that you have a voltage drop due to the power absorbtion of the diodes themselves. and with only 16a (possibly 20a peak) you need all the help you can get. Honestly, I think you are going a bit of over kill by adding the extra batteries, but then again, it's your boat. Good Luck. wrote: My boat has an alternator that has a 16-ampere stator (and voltage regulator). Is there a formula to calculate the number of batteries that the alternator can charge? Can it charge two or four batteries all at the same time? I am asking this because my boat already has two dual purpose group-24 batteries (for starting battery and house battery), and I will add two deep-cycle batteries for trolling motor. I think this will be nice if I can use the outboard motor to recharge all four batteries when I am done with fishing and heading home. And all four batteries will be ready for next day boating/fishing trip without worrying about recharging them at night. Can this alternator handle AGM batteries instead of flood batteries? I am under the impression that AGM batteries may be accepting charge too fast that they may over-stress the alternator and overheat it (or something like that if I understand this correctly). I am wondering if this is relevant to my alternator. I am asking this because the batteries-storage area in my boat is very difficult to reach (tiny room with a tiny access door). Seem like AGM batteries will be suitable for me because they don't need as much maintenance as flood batteries - at least I don't need to physically pull them out to add water. But if they could overheat the alternator in my outboard, I would have to pass on them and choose flood batteries instead (and relocate the batteries to some place more accessible). Thanks in advance for any info on this issue. Jay Chan |
Charge Batteries with 16-ampere Alternator
Thanks for the many good information that I have received so far.
Sound like the 16-amp stator is just enough to charge one battery, two is pushing it, and four is not practical. Good to know this "rule of thumb" guide line. This means I will have to recharge at least three if not all four batteries when I get back home if a boating / fishing trip. I will know whether I need to recharge 3 or all 4 batteries when I start getting real experience in using my boat. This also means I really don't need to worry about the issue related to using the alternator to charge the pair of AGM trolling motor batteries; I will not be able to use the alternator to charge the AGM trolling motor batteries anyway. I will have to recharge them at home using a 3-stage charger. With this understanding, I am certain that I will buy AGM batteries (instead of flood batteries) to take advantage of the fact that I will not need to pull them out from the boat every winter to refill water (like what we need to do for flood batteries). Thanks again. Jay Chan On Mar 22, 10:44 am, "Tim" wrote: Jay, If I remember correctly, your boat has a Mercury outboard[?] 16a. is about all you're going to get out of it total. and as far as I know,t here isn't any performance stator to give you more power. In a nutshell, the outboards charging system will charge all your batteries, but it will take quite a while. You can't expect automotive performance with that small of output. A basic rule of thumb is that if you take a 650 CCA battery that is flat dead (or almost), it will take a 10 a battery charger a good 6 hr.s to recharge it. That rule is a bit inefficient, but gives you an idea on how battery charge rates work. Of course you're not taling charging 4 dead batteries on 16a either. Another thing to consider, is that the stator builds up a lot of heat under the enclosed flywheel, and doesn't have any fan cooling. It will usually handle what it's intended for, but under extended hard loads, the Stator gets really hot, and burns off the enamel insulation on the stator wires, and shorts them out, then it doesn't charge at all untill you get the Stator replaced. Not handy, and not cheap. But if you really feel you need to go this rout, instead of going with a battery isolator I'd go with a battery switch where you can pick and choose which set of batteries you need to charge . the problem with battery isolators, is that because they use heavy diodes, is that you have a voltage drop due to the power absorbtion of the diodes themselves. and with only 16a (possibly 20a peak) you need all the help you can get. Honestly, I think you are going a bit of over kill by adding the extra batteries, but then again, it's your boat. Good Luck. wrote: My boat has an alternator that has a 16-ampere stator (and voltage regulator). Is there a formula to calculate the number of batteries that the alternator can charge? Can it charge two or four batteries all at the same time? I am asking this because my boat already has two dual purpose group-24 batteries (for starting battery and house battery), and I will add two deep-cycle batteries for trolling motor. I think this will be nice if I can use the outboard motor to recharge all four batteries when I am done with fishing and heading home. And all four batteries will be ready for next day boating/fishing trip without worrying about recharging them at night. Can this alternator handle AGM batteries instead of flood batteries? I am under the impression that AGM batteries may be accepting charge too fast that they may over-stress the alternator and overheat it (or something like that if I understand this correctly). I am wondering if this is relevant to my alternator. I am asking this because the batteries-storage area in my boat is very difficult to reach (tiny room with a tiny access door). Seem like AGM batteries will be suitable for me because they don't need as much maintenance as flood batteries - at least I don't need to physically pull them out to add water. But if they could overheat the alternator in my outboard, I would have to pass on them and choose flood batteries instead (and relocate the batteries to some place more accessible). Thanks in advance for any info on this issue. Jay Chan- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - |
Charge Batteries with 16-ampere Alternator
Sorry, I missed one point that you had mentioned in your post. You
are saying that I really don't need the extra two batteries. I would like to learn more. If I really don't need them, I will be able to cut down at least one hundred pounds from the load, and this would be a very good thing. In order not to get the extra two batteries, I will need to use the current two dual purpose batteries to do the following things: o First dual purpose battery: I will need to use it to crank the outboard and use it to power fishfinder, GPS, VHF radio, livewell for baits, and _may_be_ a pair of trim tabs. I have a feeling that one battery cannot handle that many tasks, and I may need to split the tasks into two batteries. o Second dual purpose battery: I will need to use it strictly for trolling motor. This also means that I will need to pair it with a 12-volt trolling motor, and this is limited to no more than 55-lb thrust. Based on West Marine recommendation, 55-lb thrust should be enough for a 18-ft 2000-lb fiberglass boat. But based on tech support in a trolling motor company, they recommend 70-lb thrust for that size of boat, and that will require a 24-volt system and two 12-volt batteries. This makes me a bit confused. If I interpret this correctly, this means more is better, and less is OK if I am not using it in strong current or high wind situation. If I understand this correctly, 55-lb thrust probably is OK for me, and this also means that I probably only need one battery for the trolling motor. In summary, I may only need totally 3 batteries instead of 4 batteries as what I originally thought. This is good because I can cut down at least 50-lb to 60-lb from the boat load. Thanks for getting me thinking along that line. Jay Chan On Mar 22, 10:44 am, "Tim" wrote: Jay, If I remember correctly, your boat has a Mercury outboard[?] 16a. is about all you're going to get out of it total. and as far as I know,t here isn't any performance stator to give you more power. In a nutshell, the outboards charging system will charge all your batteries, but it will take quite a while. You can't expect automotive performance with that small of output. A basic rule of thumb is that if you take a 650 CCA battery that is flat dead (or almost), it will take a 10 a battery charger a good 6 hr.s to recharge it. That rule is a bit inefficient, but gives you an idea on how battery charge rates work. Of course you're not taling charging 4 dead batteries on 16a either. Another thing to consider, is that the stator builds up a lot of heat under the enclosed flywheel, and doesn't have any fan cooling. It will usually handle what it's intended for, but under extended hard loads, the Stator gets really hot, and burns off the enamel insulation on the stator wires, and shorts them out, then it doesn't charge at all untill you get the Stator replaced. Not handy, and not cheap. But if you really feel you need to go this rout, instead of going with a battery isolator I'd go with a battery switch where you can pick and choose which set of batteries you need to charge . the problem with battery isolators, is that because they use heavy diodes, is that you have a voltage drop due to the power absorbtion of the diodes themselves. and with only 16a (possibly 20a peak) you need all the help you can get. Honestly, I think you are going a bit of over kill by adding the extra batteries, but then again, it's your boat. Good Luck. wrote: My boat has an alternator that has a 16-ampere stator (and voltage regulator). Is there a formula to calculate the number of batteries that the alternator can charge? Can it charge two or four batteries all at the same time? I am asking this because my boat already has two dual purpose group-24 batteries (for starting battery and house battery), and I will add two deep-cycle batteries for trolling motor. I think this will be nice if I can use the outboard motor to recharge all four batteries when I am done with fishing and heading home. And all four batteries will be ready for next day boating/fishing trip without worrying about recharging them at night. Can this alternator handle AGM batteries instead of flood batteries? I am under the impression that AGM batteries may be accepting charge too fast that they may over-stress the alternator and overheat it (or something like that if I understand this correctly). I am wondering if this is relevant to my alternator. I am asking this because the batteries-storage area in my boat is very difficult to reach (tiny room with a tiny access door). Seem like AGM batteries will be suitable for me because they don't need as much maintenance as flood batteries - at least I don't need to physically pull them out to add water. But if they could overheat the alternator in my outboard, I would have to pass on them and choose flood batteries instead (and relocate the batteries to some place more accessible). Thanks in advance for any info on this issue. Jay Chan- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - |
Charge Batteries with 16-ampere Alternator
On 22 Mar 2007 09:50:20 -0700, "
wrote: With this understanding, I am certain that I will buy AGM batteries (instead of flood batteries) to take advantage of the fact that I will not need to pull them out from the boat every winter to refill water (like what we need to do for flood batteries). Batteries that are kept fully charged will not freeze so there is no need to pull them from the boat. AGMs and gel cells require special charging precautions that I prefer not to deal with, not to mention the additional expense. The best $$$ value for trolling batteries (or any other deep discharge application) is 6 volt golf cart batteries wired in series to yield the proper voltage. Approximately $50 each at Sam's club, years of reliable service. |
Charge Batteries with 16-ampere Alternator
On 22 Mar 2007 10:21:07 -0700, "
wrote: Sorry, I missed one point that you had mentioned in your post. You are saying that I really don't need the extra two batteries. I would like to learn more. If I really don't need them, I will be able to cut down at least one hundred pounds from the load, and this would be a very good thing. In order not to get the extra two batteries, I will need to use the current two dual purpose batteries to do the following things: o First dual purpose battery: I will need to use it to crank the outboard and use it to power fishfinder, GPS, VHF radio, livewell for baits, and _may_be_ a pair of trim tabs. I have a feeling that one battery cannot handle that many tasks, and I may need to split the tasks into two batteries. o Second dual purpose battery: I will need to use it strictly for trolling motor. This also means that I will need to pair it with a 12-volt trolling motor, and this is limited to no more than 55-lb thrust. Based on West Marine recommendation, 55-lb thrust should be enough for a 18-ft 2000-lb fiberglass boat. But based on tech support in a trolling motor company, they recommend 70-lb thrust for that size of boat, and that will require a 24-volt system and two 12-volt batteries. This makes me a bit confused. If I interpret this correctly, this means more is better, and less is OK if I am not using it in strong current or high wind situation. If I understand this correctly, 55-lb thrust probably is OK for me, and this also means that I probably only need one battery for the trolling motor. In summary, I may only need totally 3 batteries instead of 4 batteries as what I originally thought. This is good because I can cut down at least 50-lb to 60-lb from the boat load. Thanks for getting me thinking along that line. The difference is 12 Vdc and 24 Vdc. 12 Vdc systems have reduced run times as they will draw more current doing any task. With 24 Vdc systems, that current draw is spread across two batteries increasing efficiency and run times. Put another way, the higher the voltage the less current draw. For example, on my Princecraft, a 14 foot aluminum boat, I have a single 12 Vdc battery to power the 45 lb. thrust trolling motor. It does quite nicely in a wind situation and moves the boat along quickly, but it will only last a half day's fishing is I'm on a small pond and has zero power for cutting weeds. The 24 Vdc system (67 lb thrust) on the Ranger runs all day pushing a boat 4 times the weight of the Princecraft and I have reserve power up the ying yang. Holding a boat against a wind or wave action with a 12 Vdc trolling motor is going to tax your patience because you will not have the power necessary to properly move the boat. I would definetly opt for the higher thrust and 24 Vdc system. |
Charge Batteries with 16-ampere Alternator
Fwiw, I'd be tempted to move the items that I will use when trolling over to
the trolling batteries along with the trolling motor. The fishfinder and livewell. That way your primary run battery is not in use much while the outboard is not running. You can pull 12v off the first of the two trolling batteries for accessories even though you have them wired in series for a 24v trollling motor. An a-b switch correctly added would also give you the ability to start from the first trolling battery in case your primary run battery goes down. There are some really nice electronic chargers that can be mounted with your agm batteries. You'll be able to simply plug them in when you get home. Pricey though. Unless there is a big price difference I'd go for the 70lb motor. The battery draw is more a function of how the actual load on the motor than it is on the motor's maximum thrust. wrote in message oups.com... Sorry, I missed one point that you had mentioned in your post. You are saying that I really don't need the extra two batteries. I would like to learn more. If I really don't need them, I will be able to cut down at least one hundred pounds from the load, and this would be a very good thing. In order not to get the extra two batteries, I will need to use the current two dual purpose batteries to do the following things: o First dual purpose battery: I will need to use it to crank the outboard and use it to power fishfinder, GPS, VHF radio, livewell for baits, and _may_be_ a pair of trim tabs. I have a feeling that one battery cannot handle that many tasks, and I may need to split the tasks into two batteries. o Second dual purpose battery: I will need to use it strictly for trolling motor. This also means that I will need to pair it with a 12-volt trolling motor, and this is limited to no more than 55-lb thrust. Based on West Marine recommendation, 55-lb thrust should be enough for a 18-ft 2000-lb fiberglass boat. But based on tech support in a trolling motor company, they recommend 70-lb thrust for that size of boat, and that will require a 24-volt system and two 12-volt batteries. This makes me a bit confused. If I interpret this correctly, this means more is better, and less is OK if I am not using it in strong current or high wind situation. If I understand this correctly, 55-lb thrust probably is OK for me, and this also means that I probably only need one battery for the trolling motor. In summary, I may only need totally 3 batteries instead of 4 batteries as what I originally thought. This is good because I can cut down at least 50-lb to 60-lb from the boat load. Thanks for getting me thinking along that line. Jay Chan On Mar 22, 10:44 am, "Tim" wrote: Jay, If I remember correctly, your boat has a Mercury outboard[?] 16a. is about all you're going to get out of it total. and as far as I know,t here isn't any performance stator to give you more power. In a nutshell, the outboards charging system will charge all your batteries, but it will take quite a while. You can't expect automotive performance with that small of output. A basic rule of thumb is that if you take a 650 CCA battery that is flat dead (or almost), it will take a 10 a battery charger a good 6 hr.s to recharge it. That rule is a bit inefficient, but gives you an idea on how battery charge rates work. Of course you're not taling charging 4 dead batteries on 16a either. Another thing to consider, is that the stator builds up a lot of heat under the enclosed flywheel, and doesn't have any fan cooling. It will usually handle what it's intended for, but under extended hard loads, the Stator gets really hot, and burns off the enamel insulation on the stator wires, and shorts them out, then it doesn't charge at all untill you get the Stator replaced. Not handy, and not cheap. But if you really feel you need to go this rout, instead of going with a battery isolator I'd go with a battery switch where you can pick and choose which set of batteries you need to charge . the problem with battery isolators, is that because they use heavy diodes, is that you have a voltage drop due to the power absorbtion of the diodes themselves. and with only 16a (possibly 20a peak) you need all the help you can get. Honestly, I think you are going a bit of over kill by adding the extra batteries, but then again, it's your boat. Good Luck. wrote: My boat has an alternator that has a 16-ampere stator (and voltage regulator). Is there a formula to calculate the number of batteries that the alternator can charge? Can it charge two or four batteries all at the same time? I am asking this because my boat already has two dual purpose group-24 batteries (for starting battery and house battery), and I will add two deep-cycle batteries for trolling motor. I think this will be nice if I can use the outboard motor to recharge all four batteries when I am done with fishing and heading home. And all four batteries will be ready for next day boating/fishing trip without worrying about recharging them at night. Can this alternator handle AGM batteries instead of flood batteries? I am under the impression that AGM batteries may be accepting charge too fast that they may over-stress the alternator and overheat it (or something like that if I understand this correctly). I am wondering if this is relevant to my alternator. I am asking this because the batteries-storage area in my boat is very difficult to reach (tiny room with a tiny access door). Seem like AGM batteries will be suitable for me because they don't need as much maintenance as flood batteries - at least I don't need to physically pull them out to add water. But if they could overheat the alternator in my outboard, I would have to pass on them and choose flood batteries instead (and relocate the batteries to some place more accessible). Thanks in advance for any info on this issue. Jay Chan- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - |
Charge Batteries with 16-ampere Alternator
On Mar 22, 1:27 pm, Wayne.B wrote:
On 22 Mar 2007 09:50:20 -0700, " wrote: With this understanding, I am certain that I will buy AGM batteries (instead of flood batteries) to take advantage of the fact that I will not need to pull them out from the boat every winter to refill water (like what we need to do for flood batteries). Batteries that are kept fully charged will not freeze so there is no need to pull them from the boat. AGMs and gel cells require special charging precautions that I prefer not to deal with, not to mention the additional expense. The best $$$ value for trolling batteries (or any other deep discharge application) is 6 volt golf cart batteries wired in series to yield the proper voltage. Approximately $50 each at Sam's club, years of reliable service. Actually, I was referring to pulling out the flood batteries in order to examine the water level, and also for refilling the water. In my boat, the batteries compactment has a tiny access door. If I need to check the water level of the batteries without pulling out the batteries, I will have to have half of my body inside the battery compactment, and my face will be dangerously close to the acidic water in the batteries. I really don't want to do this. But pulling the batteries from that tiny battery compactment is really a struggle. That is the reason why I am looking for AGM batteries that I don't need to check the water level, and I can leave them inside the battery compactment without doing that annual exercise of pulling them out and putting them back. I have another alternative to the use of AGM batteries to solve this problem. I can relocate the batteries to under the deck with a large access door right on top of the batteries. But I don't want to greatly change the boat layout just yet. If charging AGM batteries is really difficult, I may have to stick with flood batteries, and I will have to relocate the batteries. The idea of using 6-volt batteries is interesting. But I am afraid that the total weight of batteries will be much higher than using 12- volt batteries, and I really want to keep the weight down. If I had a bigger boat, I probably would take your advice. Jay Chan |
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