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Need help battling mildew in headliner
Keith wrote:
You need to figure out where the moisture is coming from that allows the mold to grow. Probably lack of ventilation, or condensation if you're in a cold climate. I would guess is it a leak around the rub rail due to the location of the mold. If it is Black Mold per Tom's post, it has to be due to a long period of dampness. Black Mold is toxic and needs to be handled with care, weat a mask, ventilate the area with a fan, and after cleaning the mold, wipe down the rest of the inside of the cabin. |
Need help battling mildew in headliner
On Thu, 15 Mar 2007 07:13:35 -0400, RJSmithers
wrote: Short Wave Sportfishing wrote: On Thu, 15 Mar 2007 06:41:39 -0400, RJSmithers wrote: Kirk wrote: On Mar 14, 8:20 pm, RJSmithers wrote: DO NOT use bleach, use oxyclean. I've tried Oxyclean. It didn't cut it. Spray it with a stronger concentrate of Oxyclean and keep it wet for a longer period, rubbing it with a cloth, then spraying it with the Oxyclean. Bleach will "bleach" it white. I have used this to get rid of mildew on the headliner and the canvas cover. If it's black mold, it ain't going away period other than removing it and then using a mold killer. Mold Killers: 1. Alcohols (ethanol, isopropanol): Bactericidal, Virucidal, Fungicidal. Use a diluted concentration of 60 to 90%. Advantages - nonstaining and nonirritating Disadvantages - inactivated by organic matter, highly flammable 2. Quarternary Ammonium Compounds: Bactericidal and Virucidal with limited effectiveness, Fungicidal. Use a diluted concentration of 0.4 to 1.6%. Advantages - inexpensive Disadvantages - inactivated by organic matter, limited efficacy 3. Phenolics: Bactericidal, Virucidal, Fungicidal. Use a diluted concentration of 0.4 to 0.5%. Advantages - inexpensive, residual Disadvantages - toxic, irritating, and corrosive 4. Iodophors: Bactericidal, Virucidal, Fungicidal, Sporicidal and Tuberculocidal if contact time is for a prolonged period of time. Use a concentration of 75 ppm. Advantages - stable, residual action Disadvantages - inactivated by organic matter, expensive 5. Glutaraldehydes: Bactericidal, Virucidal, Fungicidal, Sporicidal (prolonged contact time required), and Tuberculocidal. Use a diluted concentration of 2%. Advantages - unaffected by organics, noncorrosive Disadvantages - irritating/damaging vapors, highly toxic, expensive 6. Hypochlorites (Chlorox Bleach): Bactericidal, Virucidal, Fungicidal, Sporicidal (prolonged contact time required), and Tuberculocidal. Use a diluted concentartion of 1:10 . Advantages - inexpensive Disadvantages - bleaching agent, toxic, corrosive, inactivated by organic matter; removes color from many interior fabrics; dissolves protein fibers (i.e. wool, silk); has not shown to be effective against stachybotrys spores. 7. Hydrogen Peroxide: Bactericidal, Virucidal, Fungicidal, Sporicidal (prolonged contact time required), and Tuberculocidal. Use a diluted concentration of 3% or greater. Advantages - Relatively stable Disadvantages - corrosive, expensive, degrades in heat or UV light 8 - Pizza. |
Need help battling mildew in headliner
You'd have to try it in an inconspicuous place and see. Bleach has got it
all over everything else for killing and removing mold but you are right it will change the color of things. Your location is just going to always be a problem for mold. I have no idea what your boat looks like but perhaps a snap in white fabric or vinyl replacement would be the bext long term solution. "Kirk" wrote in message oups.com... On Mar 14, 6:36 pm, "James" wrote: Bleach. Rinse well after. Spray with Lysol when dry. what if the liner isn't pure white? Mine is sort of off-white color. Will the bleach cause discoloration, or just remove the black stuff? |
Need help battling mildew in headliner
Short Wave Sportfishing wrote:
Mold Killers: 8 - Pizza. Is that taken internally or just rubbed on the headliner? |
Need help battling mildew in headliner
On Thu, 15 Mar 2007 08:32:50 -0400, RJSmithers
wrote: Short Wave Sportfishing wrote: Mold Killers: 8 - Pizza. Is that taken internally or just rubbed on the headliner? Neither. You store the pizza behind the headliner. |
Need help battling mildew in headliner
On Mar 14, 6:24?pm, "Kirk" wrote:
My boat has this fuzzy (aka crappy) headliner material that is showing blackness in corners, etc. Does anyone have a good cleaner or tips \tricks for tackling this stuff? A stiff scrub brush won't work as it will just chew up the material. I've tried canned carpet cleaners, but they don't make a dent. Help!! Signed, Soggy in Seattle Sounds like "bunny fur" material. Might as well pull it down, find and fix whatever leak is creating the moisture. You can spend all summer scrubbing that thing, but everytime it rains (what? in Seattle?) or you wash the boat the mold problem will kick in again. My advice would be to eliminate the source of the mold, and then replace the material. A lot less frustrating than trying to keep up with a bottle of bleach and a brush. The bunny fur is probably glued directly to the laminate. Look for a good spot to make a straight cut when you're removing the old stuff. When you replace the bunny fur, you can add a teak or even a platic batten to cover the seam between the new and the old material. You can add a second batten on the opposite side and the whole works will look like it was built that way, rather than patched. |
Need help battling mildew in headliner
Tilex works well for me. Be careful as it will bleach some material
dyes. Test on a small area first. Ventilation is the key for keeping the mildew down. Anything you can do to assure airflow through the cabin during storage will help. JR Kirk wrote: My boat has this fuzzy (aka crappy) headliner material that is showing blackness in corners, etc. Does anyone have a good cleaner or tips \tricks for tackling this stuff? A stiff scrub brush won't work as it will just chew up the material. I've tried canned carpet cleaners, but they don't make a dent. Help!! Signed, Soggy in Seattle -- -------------------------------------------------------------- Home Page: http://www.seanet.com/~jasonrnorth |
Need help battling mildew in headliner
On Mar 16, 8:27�am, JR North wrote:
Tilex works well for me. Be careful as it will bleach some material dyes. Test on a small area first. Ventilation is the key for keeping the mildew down. Anything you can do to assure airflow through the cabin during storage will help. JR Kirk wrote: My boat has this fuzzy (aka crappy) headliner material that is showing blackness in corners, etc. Does anyone have a good cleaner or tips \tricks for tackling this stuff? A stiff scrub brush won't work as it will just chew up the material. I've tried canned carpet cleaners, but they don't make a dent. Help!! Signed, Soggy in Seattle -- -------------------------------------------------------------- * * * * Home Page:http://www.seanet.com/~jasonrnorth Do you think its more likely to be a general dampness condition vs. a leak? I was taking clues from this comment that the mildew was in a corner, typically a point where there is going to be a joint nearby. I suppose that by the same token the air circulation might be worse in the corner than across the broad section of the headliner.... I would agree that ventilation is the main key to general moisture control. |
Need help battling mildew in headliner
On Wed, 14 Mar 2007 18:24:03 -0700, Kirk wrote:
My boat has this fuzzy (aka crappy) headliner material that is showing blackness in corners, etc. Does anyone have a good cleaner or tips \tricks for tackling this stuff? A stiff scrub brush won't work as it will just chew up the material. I've tried canned carpet cleaners, but they don't make a dent. Help!! Signed, Soggy in Seattle Bleach. Diluted into a spray-bottle. The Oxy-stuff works just about as well as the Chlorine stuff, and may be kinder to your material. druid - knows his mildew! http://www.bcboatnet.org |
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