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Mercruiser 6.2L engine alarm problem
Very nice work James. Kudos to you. I just had a couple of thoughts though.
My recollector is getting pretty rusty, but something tells me that once the fuel line reaches the engine, it should convert to double flared steel. I also am wondering if it is OK to use a non metallic fuel filter inside an enclosed engine space. I like to see rubber fuel lines double clamped, but maybe that's just because I'm a belt/suspenders kind of person. Jim "James" wrote in message k.net... I'm pretty surprised that in 2002 merc is feeding the other sending units to the computer. For quite a while they simply controlled fuel with it. Does sound like that might have changed. The similarity between a couple outboards and a chevy big block i/o is still almost non-existent. By way of credentials I built the engine in my boat. Just finished a valve adjustment after a cam change this spring in this picture. Block is a 40 over 350 from a 3/4 ton panel truck with aluminum heads and intake. Roller cam, lifters, and rockers. Stainless marine exhaust with Corsa cutouts. Plus custom cooling and lowered alternator and power steering pump. http://home.earthlink.net/~jamesgangnc/ebay/boateng.jpg "Jim" wrote in message nk.net... Seems that James is clueless also. "James" wrote in message link.net... I don't think so. The similarity between a 2002 merc i/o and your outboards ends somewhere around the fact that they both use gas. My first guess would be that he has the same alarm setup merc used for years. A collection of sensors is tied to an alarm. Nothing to do with the fuel control computer. If that is the case then he needs to determine is an alarm sensor is malfunctioning or if one of his gauges is not working. Probably safe to say he has oil pressure or he would have had some other nasty symptoms by now. Overheating is the other possibility. The correct test is to remove the sensor, hang it in a pot of water with a continuity or ohm meter on it and a thermometer it and raise the temp until it trips. Of course the shop would simply stick another sensor in and if that didn't work you'd get charged for it anyway. "Short Wave Sportfishing" wrote in message ... On Sun, 11 Mar 2007 18:50:57 -0400, Wayne.B wrote: On Sun, 11 Mar 2007 22:33:57 GMT, "James" wrote: Have you looked at the owner's manual? Sometimes a tone code is generated to indicate the trouble area. Jim Yes, I've been through the owners manual *very* carefully, and no, there are no tone codes. It would be nice if they'd give you some indication but that doesn't seem to be the case. Apparently factory service technicians can tap into the ECM (Engine Control Module) and get more data. My ETECS have a system which indicates a "code" - this light blinks so many times it means this, etc. Sadly, you still have to get to the ECM to find out which sensor or thingymajigger is FUBAR. I wonder if those ecm readers that NAPA and Auto Zone sells might tell you what's what. |
Mercruiser 6.2L engine alarm problem
"Jim" wrote in message link.net... Very nice work James. Kudos to you. I just had a couple of thoughts though. My recollector is getting pretty rusty, but something tells me that once the fuel line reaches the engine, it should convert to double flared steel. I also am wondering if it is OK to use a non metallic fuel filter inside an enclosed engine space. I like to see rubber fuel lines double clamped, but maybe that's just because I'm a belt/suspenders kind of person. Jim "James" wrote in message k.net... By way of credentials I built the engine in my boat. Just finished a valve adjustment after a cam change this spring in this picture. Block is a 40 over 350 from a 3/4 ton panel truck with aluminum heads and intake. Roller cam, lifters, and rockers. Stainless marine exhaust with Corsa cutouts. Plus custom cooling and lowered alternator and power steering pump. http://home.earthlink.net/~jamesgangnc/ebay/boateng.jpg I am also curious about something. What's that yellow colored (appears to be plastic) tubing that runs from the carb, down below the fuel filter and down someplace for? Is that the float overflow? Eisboch |
Mercruiser 6.2L engine alarm problem
"Eisboch" wrote in message . .. "Jim" wrote in message link.net... Very nice work James. Kudos to you. I just had a couple of thoughts though. My recollector is getting pretty rusty, but something tells me that once the fuel line reaches the engine, it should convert to double flared steel. I also am wondering if it is OK to use a non metallic fuel filter inside an enclosed engine space. I like to see rubber fuel lines double clamped, but maybe that's just because I'm a belt/suspenders kind of person. Jim "James" wrote in message k.net... By way of credentials I built the engine in my boat. Just finished a valve adjustment after a cam change this spring in this picture. Block is a 40 over 350 from a 3/4 ton panel truck with aluminum heads and intake. Roller cam, lifters, and rockers. Stainless marine exhaust with Corsa cutouts. Plus custom cooling and lowered alternator and power steering pump. http://home.earthlink.net/~jamesgangnc/ebay/boateng.jpg I am also curious about something. What's that yellow colored (appears to be plastic) tubing that runs from the carb, down below the fuel filter and down someplace for? Is that the float overflow? Eisboch I'm guessing that it is there to contain the fuel if one of the fuel pump diaphragms rupture. Jim |
Mercruiser 6.2L engine alarm problem
You're right, that is a vent tube from the back side of the fuel pump
to a vacuum port on the carb. If the fuel pump broke the gas would go up that tube to the carb instead of leaking into the bilge. If you look close you can see the fuel pump below the spin on fuel filter. That's actually the original merc setup even though the fuel pump and carb are both holley now. You're also right about the fuel line, it is all rubber, I don't have any metal line. But it is double walled marine line and I could not find that any code that said it had to be metal somewhere, just that it either had to be metal or it had to be double walled rubber. I can't argue that metal would be safer. The non-metal filter is also marine but I agree it doesn't seem like it should be. I had some water in the fuel tank troubles some years back and I put that in to keep an eye on it but I probably should take it out now. On the other hand I'm always tinkering so I can keep a pretty good eye out for any signs of impending trouble. And it's just a bowrider lake boat so we're not really "serious" boaters ;-) On Mar 13, 6:33 pm, "Eisboch" wrote: "Jim" wrote in message link.net... Very nice work James. Kudos to you. I just had a couple of thoughts though. My recollector is getting pretty rusty, but something tells me that once the fuel line reaches the engine, it should convert to double flared steel. I also am wondering if it is OK to use a non metallic fuel filter inside an enclosed engine space. I like to see rubber fuel lines double clamped, but maybe that's just because I'm a belt/suspenders kind of person. Jim "James" wrote in message nk.net... By way of credentials I built the engine in my boat. Just finished a valve adjustment after a cam change this spring in this picture. Block is a 40 over 350 from a 3/4 ton panel truck with aluminum heads and intake. Roller cam, lifters, and rockers. Stainless marine exhaust with Corsa cutouts. Plus custom cooling and lowered alternator and power steering pump. http://home.earthlink.net/~jamesgangnc/ebay/boateng.jpg I am also curious about something. What's that yellow colored (appears to be plastic) tubing that runs from the carb, down below the fuel filter and down someplace for? Is that the float overflow? Eisboch- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - |
Mercruiser 6.2L engine alarm problem
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Mercruiser 6.2L engine alarm problem
"Wayne.B" wrote in message ... On Wed, 14 Mar 2007 11:50:49 -0400, wrote: Possibility of bits of rubber from failed old pump in the cooling system.... Possible if the previous owner had an impeller give out, or this one is getting ready to go. At this point I may go ahead and replace the impeller on general principles. All of the other easy stuff has already been checked as far as I can tell. But if the engine checked out with a heat gun as you say, confirming a normal reading on the helm temp gauge, it wouldn't seem to be an overheat problem caused by impeller bits or any other cooling system malfunction. |
Mercruiser 6.2L engine alarm problem
On Mar 14, 4:58 pm, Wayne.B wrote:
On Wed, 14 Mar 2007 11:50:49 -0400, wrote: Possibility of bits of rubber from failed old pump in the cooling system.... Possible if the previous owner had an impeller give out, or this one is getting ready to go. At this point I may go ahead and replace the impeller on general principles. All of the other easy stuff has already been checked as far as I can tell. wayne, Here's a situation I was talking with a guy jsut today. And even though a Mercury outboard it still makes sense. right after he got his bass boat with the 200 hp outboard, the first thing he did was pull the lower and inspect the impeller. Yeah, he said, " it was starting to crack" So he got an aftermarket impeller kit, and installed it. fine. He took it out, and all was well till he nailed it, and in just a few secondes an alarm was going off. he killed the engine, and looked stuff over. didn't see any problems, and fired ti back up and took off at slow speed all was well, till he nailed it again, in about the same amount of time, the alarm went off. he idled it back down, the alarm went silent and he cruised easy back to the dock. He thought there might have been something really freaky, so he took it to a Merc. dealer and told them the situation. The mechanic asked him to repeat the story. about changing the impeller. Then the mechanic said "Where'd you get the impeller?" the guy told him, and the mechanic said, "thats your problem." They split the lower again and took the impeller back out and it looked fine. just like new. which it was. BUT! the mechanic told him that the aftermarket impellers arn't the same composite of rubber and are softer, so that at high RPM's, the vanes were actually folding back and not brushing the pump housing, thus the water flow dropped like a rock. The mechanic installed an OE impeller, and told him to take it back out. The guy took it back out and nailed it, and all was fine since. I don't knwo if this is fit for your application, but I thought I'd pass it along, seeing you just got the boat. |
Mercruiser 6.2L engine alarm problem
On Wed, 14 Mar 2007 22:31:17 GMT, "RG" wrote:
But if the engine checked out with a heat gun as you say, confirming a normal reading on the helm temp gauge, it wouldn't seem to be an overheat problem caused by impeller bits or any other cooling system malfunction. Yes. Changing the impeller is probably a good thing to do but I'm going to be surprised if it actually fixes the problem. I had the boat out for an hour at lunch time today, never running over 1400 RPM or so since I was in the local canals. No alarms of course. The closest Mercruiser mechanic has a new ECM cable on order, should be in next week. Hopefully there is a record of the alarm trips in there. |
Mercruiser 6.2L engine alarm problem
On Sun, 11 Mar 2007 15:34:44 -0400, Wayne.B
wrote: On Sun, 11 Mar 2007 15:08:26 -0400, Gene Kearns wrote: Is there any diagnostic equipment or process available to find out exactly which sensor is being tripped ? Have you had to replace an impeller? No, not yet. Why do you ask? Wayne, be sure and open the outdrive lube bottle and look in. The stuff will stick to the insides of the bottle and appear to be up to level when it's not. This happened to me and had me going crazy wondering where the alarm was coming from. -- ***** Hope your day is better than decent! ***** John H |
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