prop refinishing
 

I had thought about powder coating the prop from my '69 Johnson V-115
but then I found it contains a rubber insert where it fits on the shaft
and I'm thinking the 400 degree curing bake would probably damage the
rubber. Is it possible to non-destructively remove that or is it bonded
in place?

Are any of the off the shelf aerosol paints durable enough to hold up
reasonably on a prop? I know some are readily dissolved by gas and oil.

prop refinishing
 

I think most automotive spray paint usually holds up ok. That black
they sell to touch up merc outdrives lasts a while.

I was surprised to find out that anodizing at home was not all that
difficult. You can even color with ritz dye!

James Sweet wrote:
I had thought about powder coating the prop from my '69 Johnson V-115
but then I found it contains a rubber insert where it fits on the shaft
and I'm thinking the 400 degree curing bake would probably damage the
rubber. Is it possible to non-destructively remove that or is it bonded
in place?

Are any of the off the shelf aerosol paints durable enough to hold up
reasonably on a prop? I know some are readily dissolved by gas and oil.

prop refinishing
 

jamesgangnc wrote:
I think most automotive spray paint usually holds up ok. That black
they sell to touch up merc outdrives lasts a while.

I was surprised to find out that anodizing at home was not all that
difficult. You can even color with ritz dye!

Do you have any links for that process? I'd like to check that out!!

prop refinishing
 

James Sweet wrote:
I had thought about powder coating the prop from my '69 Johnson V-115
but then I found it contains a rubber insert where it fits on the shaft
and I'm thinking the 400 degree curing bake would probably damage the
rubber. Is it possible to non-destructively remove that or is it bonded
in place?

It is pressed in only! A shop with a good sized arbor press could do it
for you, but I would replace the rubber if it is disassembled.

Are any of the off the shelf aerosol paints durable enough to hold up
reasonably on a prop?

No. Unless you move into a 2-part urethane or epoxy finish. Then it
still will wear off eventually.

I know some are readily dissolved by gas and oil.

The least of your worries. The action of the prop will take the paint
off faster than solvents it might encounter.

Rob

prop refinishing
 

It is pressed in only! A shop with a good sized arbor press could do it
for you, but I would replace the rubber if it is disassembled.


I have a press, I wasn't sure if that's all it was though. Can
replacement rubber pieces be purchased still? I do like the ease and
effectiveness of powder coating.


No. Unless you move into a 2-part urethane or epoxy finish. Then it
still will wear off eventually.



Well any finish will wear off eventually, oddly the existing finish is
not worn the way I usually see, instead it has thousands of pock marks
all the way down to the aluminum.




The least of your worries. The action of the prop will take the paint
off faster than solvents it might encounter.



I painted a lawnmower once years ago and the first time I slopped some
gasoline on it the paint washed off like mud.

prop refinishing
 

I was reading about the powder coat process at the following site and
wondered if I could actually do it myself. Anybody ever done any? If
so, how did it turn out?

http://www.gogocycles.com/powder-coat-paint.html

prop refinishing
 

wrote:
I was reading about the powder coat process at the following site and
wondered if I could actually do it myself. Anybody ever done any? If
so, how did it turn out?

http://www.gogocycles.com/powder-coat-paint.html



I do it regularly, I bought a cheap system from Columbia Coatings a few
years ago and use my kitchen oven to cure the powder. It would be
advisable to use a dedicated oven for it but my volume is small enough
(and I'm not married) so for now the regular oven has been an option.
The process is more complex, but in my experience easier to get right
than spray painting. The fact that it "dries" in only the time it takes
for the part to cool is a huge bonus, if you screw it up you can just
sandblast it off and start over with very little time hit.