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What is the right way to refinish Teak?
I am refininshing a teak wood swim platform on an older boat. It is
the first time I have done this. I read that I should strip the old varnish, sand down the gray wood, and refinish, basically. But should I oil the teak or put more varnish on it? It is out of the water except for a few hours a week when I am actually on the water. Thanks for the benefit of anyone's experience. |
What is the right way to refinish Teak?
wrote in message ups.com... I am refininshing a teak wood swim platform on an older boat. It is the first time I have done this. I read that I should strip the old varnish, sand down the gray wood, and refinish, basically. But should I oil the teak or put more varnish on it? It is out of the water except for a few hours a week when I am actually on the water. Thanks for the benefit of anyone's experience. Several good links on this subject with great advice: http://www.boatdocs1.com/Articles_Teak.html http://www.sailnet.com/forums/gear-m...stol-teak.html |
What is the right way to refinish Teak?
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What is the right way to refinish Teak?
"Chuck Gould" wrote in message oups.com... wrote: I am refininshing a teak wood swim platform on an older boat. It is the first time I have done this. I read that I should strip the old varnish, sand down the gray wood, and refinish, basically. But should I oil the teak or put more varnish on it? It is out of the water except for a few hours a week when I am actually on the water. Thanks for the benefit of anyone's experience. Boaters will disagree on many aspects of refinishing brightwork. Some swear by oil and others by varnish. I've yet to see a varnish on teak that holds up long term other than on brightwork that is not constantly exposed to salt water. The popular Sikkens Cetol produces a phony orange color that takes away from the natural beauty of teak. I'd go with the oil. Eisboch |
What is the right way to refinish Teak?
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What is the right way to refinish Teak?
JimH wrote: Sikkens Cetol (marine) is the way to go after stripping, cleaning and sanding. Orange paint will give you the same appearance, and with less hassle than Cetol. :-) My friend has been using it on all his exposed teak for as long as I can remember, including the swim platform, with excellent results. Conversely, I had poor results with oil on the exposed teak when I had my 270 Dancer, including on the swim platform inserts. ;-) |
What is the right way to refinish Teak?
"Chuck Gould" wrote in message oups.com... JimH wrote: Sikkens Cetol (marine) is the way to go after stripping, cleaning and sanding. My friend has been using it on all his exposed teak for as long as I can remember, including the swim platform, with excellent results. Conversely, I had poor results with oil on the exposed teak when I had my 270 Dancer, including on the swim platform inserts. ;-) Orange paint will give you the same appearance, and with less hassle than Cetol. :-) Different strokes.................it is pretty popular up here where performance is perhaps more important than mild color distortions to the teak. :-) |
What is the right way to refinish Teak?
Charlie Morgan wrote: Orange paint will give you the same appearance, and with less hassle than Cetol. :-) You obviously don't know much about various finishes and how they work, Chuck. That was a very ignorant post. CWM Do make sure you offer the same persoanl observation to Eisboch, who made an identical observation about Cetol and its orange coloration further along in the thread. I've spent more time sanding, varnishing, and refinishing over the years than a lot of people have spent on the water. If you like orange decks, you'll love Cetol. Unless of course you thought that I seriously recommended orange paint (!)......in which case I'm not sure which of us would be the more ignorant. |
What is the right way to refinish Teak?
Chuck Gould wrote: Charlie Morgan wrote: Orange paint will give you the same appearance, and with less hassle than Cetol. :-) You obviously don't know much about various finishes and how they work, Chuck. That was a very ignorant post. CWM Do make sure you offer the same persoanl observation to Eisboch, who made an identical observation about Cetol and its orange coloration further along in the thread. I've spent more time sanding, varnishing, and refinishing over the years than a lot of people have spent on the water. If you like orange decks, you'll love Cetol. Unless of course you thought that I seriously recommended orange paint (!)......in which case I'm not sure which of us would be the more ignorant. PS, if you feel compelled to call everybody "ignorant" who feels that Cetol looks orange, Google up "Orange appearance Cetol". You'll get five pages of hits, I don't think any of them are me, and so you'll be busy all night. :-) |
What is the right way to refinish Teak?
"Chuck Gould" wrote in message oups.com... JimH wrote: Sikkens Cetol (marine) is the way to go after stripping, cleaning and sanding. Orange paint will give you the same appearance, and with less hassle than Cetol. :-) Some people think "Cetol Orange" *is* the natural color of teak. :-) Eisboch |
What is the right way to refinish Teak?
"Chuck Gould" wrote in message ups.com... Charlie Morgan wrote: Orange paint will give you the same appearance, and with less hassle than Cetol. :-) You obviously don't know much about various finishes and how they work, Chuck. That was a very ignorant post. CWM Do make sure you offer the same persoanl observation to Eisboch, who made an identical observation about Cetol and its orange coloration further along in the thread. I've spent more time sanding, varnishing, and refinishing over the years than a lot of people have spent on the water. If you like orange decks, you'll love Cetol. Unless of course you thought that I seriously recommended orange paint (!)......in which case I'm not sure which of us would be the more ignorant. I'll chip in my two cents worth. Some people go to a great deal of effort doing the Cetol thing that sticks to naturally oily woods like teak and mahogany better than varnish. Unfortunately, Cetol gives teak an unnatural orange color than many, including me, simply don't like. Even Cetol on teak won't last long, even in fresh water before starting to look ragged and requires periodic stripping and maintenance. The exterior of our house was built with some fairly large wood panel (mahogany) surfaces and finished in Cetol. Somewhat darker than teak with Cetol, it still has an orange hue to it and needs to be refinished every 2-3 years. My preference for teak swim platforms is to sand or power wash (if required), clean and rinse, then apply quite a bit of teak oil. Maintenance after that is simple .... wash, rinse and wipe down with oil once every month or two. Best of all, it keeps teak looking like .... teak. We recently had the exterior teak decking on the Grand Banks sanded, oiled and then top treated with a product that does not cover up the natural color or look of teak. It looks spectacular. I don't know what the top treatment is (I'll find out) but I've noticed that even a couple of months later the deck has a slight "tacky" feel to it, but does not retain marks of any kind when walking on it., We have some 6 year old outdoor furniture (chairs, tables) made of teak and they become dirty and grey over time. Once a year I blast them with a power washer and they look brand new. I don't even bother to add extra oil to them. Refinishing or completely removing Cetol is a major project when compared to the minor maintenance of natural, oiled teak. And the natural teak looks a hell of a lot better. Eisboch |
What is the right way to refinish Teak?
"Charlie Morgan" wrote in message ... On 19 Sep 2006 18:41:36 -0700, "Chuck Gould" wrote: Cetol is not just orange. It has other distinctive properties. You seem VERY ignorant on this subject. You're right Charlie. It's not orange. Sikkons prefers to refer to it as having an "attractive golden tint". CWM |
What is the right way to refinish Teak?
On Tue, 19 Sep 2006 22:10:19 -0400, Charlie Morgan wrote:
Cetol is not just orange. It has other distinctive properties. That's true, it does have other distictive properties: 1. It is *very* slippery when wet. 2. If not meticulously kept up, it looks like faded barn paint. 3. If it *is* meticulously kept up, it looks orange. How's that for keen observation ? |
What is the right way to refinish Teak?
Bert Robbins wrote: wrote: I am refininshing a teak wood swim platform on an older boat. It is the first time I have done this. I read that I should strip the old varnish, sand down the gray wood, and refinish, basically. But should I oil the teak or put more varnish on it? It is out of the water except for a few hours a week when I am actually on the water. Thanks for the benefit of anyone's experience. Often. Well I sure don't want to have to retreat it frequently. I have been sanding, on and off, for 8 days, and I am tired of it. I looked into the many options everyone mentioned and also found some others: Cetol light, Teaqua oil, and TeakCare. The manufacturer says Cetol light has the durability without the color of cetol. They say two coats of cetol light and a coat of cetol finish stuff is supposed to be good and without orange color.... |
What is the right way to refinish Teak?
wrote in message oups.com... Well I sure don't want to have to retreat it frequently. I have been sanding, on and off, for 8 days, and I am tired of it. I looked into the many options everyone mentioned and also found some others: Cetol light, Teaqua oil, and TeakCare. The manufacturer says Cetol light has the durability without the color of cetol. They say two coats of cetol light and a coat of cetol finish stuff is supposed to be good and without orange color.... Remove the swim platform and forget about it. Seriously .... if you don't care if it is not natural looking and don't care if it is slippery ... Cetol it. But ... one other issue that has not been discussed. Naturally oily woods like teak wear well in wet environments and are not prone to rot when left in their natural state and exposed to air where it can breathe. Look around where you go boating at some of the older boats with teak swim platforms. Betcha you will find that the ones that are rotting had been sealed with varnish or Cetol at some point. Eisboch |
What is the right way to refinish Teak?
"Charlie Morgan" wrote in message ... On Wed, 20 Sep 2006 00:28:58 -0400, Wayne.B wrote: At least you attempted to think about it. Cetol lasts a lot longer than varnish because it does not trap moisture. It breathes. Varnish peels because it does not breathe. Moisture gets behind it and breaks the bond. As far as "meticulous maintenance of Cetol? About once a year you wipe it down with a kitchen scrub pad and water. Then recoat. No sanding required. Cetol is a stain. The pigment makes it look orange. Varnish is obviously not a stain and has less UV protection. The Cetol gloss coat typically used is claimed to be "water resistant". How does that allow the wood to breathe? Teak is used in marine applications because of it's natural, oily composition and resistance to rot. Yes, the surface will oxidize and turn grey if not oiled every month or two, but the structure of the wood is fine. Why would you want to screw around with Mother Nature's design with a fugly looking coating? Eisboch |
What is the right way to refinish Teak?
Charlie Morgan wrote:
Cetol lasts a lot longer than varnish because it does not trap moisture. Cetol doesn't last a lot longer than varnish. It might last about 10% longer, tops. b.... As far as "meticulous maintenance of Cetol? About once a year you wipe it down with a kitchen scrub pad and water. Then recoat. No sanding required. If you keep your boat further south, the UV will rip both Cetol & varnish off in a matter of weeks. In fact Cetol may suffer more because of the darker & less reflective surface. Oh yeah... If your varnish does not contain pigment, it does nothing to protect itself OR THE WOOD from UV degradation. Does wood "degrade" from UV? Maybe that's why trees don't grow in tropical latitudes? Anyway, there are lots of varanishes with high UV protection that are relatively clear. None look like barn paint AFAIK. .... That's why varnish needs to be stripped so often. If it's properly taken care of, varnish doesn't need to be stripped. DSK |
What is the right way to refinish Teak?
Cetol is not just orange. It has other distinctive properties.
"Cetol... it's not just for breakfast any more!" Frankly I have lost faith in various marine brands of miracle glop intended to make boating less time consuming and more skill-free .. Wayne.B wrote: That's true, it does have other distictive properties: 1. It is *very* slippery when wet. 2. If not meticulously kept up, it looks like faded barn paint. 3. If it *is* meticulously kept up, it looks orange. How's that for keen observation ? If the wood on your boat has pretty grain and is well fit, in other words, an aesthetic plus; why would you slather some kind of miracle glop that hides the grain all over it? Just to save some time (which it doesn't in the long run) and to avoid learning the skill of varnishing? OTOH if the wood on your boat is not an aesthetic plus, then why bother with the time & effort of varnishing? For that matter, why bother with miracle glop that is 90% of the time & effort of varnishing? Just ****in' paint it and be done. Fresh Breezes- Doug King |
What is the right way to refinish Teak?
Eisboch wrote:
I'll chip in my two cents worth. Some people go to a great deal of effort doing the Cetol thing that sticks to naturally oily woods like teak and mahogany better than varnish. Unfortunately, Cetol gives teak an unnatural orange color than many, including me, simply don't like. Even Cetol on teak won't last long, even in fresh water before starting to look ragged and requires periodic stripping and maintenance. The exterior of our house was built with some fairly large wood panel (mahogany) surfaces and finished in Cetol. Somewhat darker than teak with Cetol, it still has an orange hue to it and needs to be refinished every 2-3 years. My preference for teak swim platforms is to sand or power wash (if required), clean and rinse, then apply quite a bit of teak oil. Maintenance after that is simple .... wash, rinse and wipe down with oil once every month or two. Best of all, it keeps teak looking like .... teak. We recently had the exterior teak decking on the Grand Banks sanded, oiled and then top treated with a product that does not cover up the natural color or look of teak. It looks spectacular. I don't know what the top treatment is (I'll find out) but I've noticed that even a couple of months later the deck has a slight "tacky" feel to it, but does not retain marks of any kind when walking on it., We have some 6 year old outdoor furniture (chairs, tables) made of teak and they become dirty and grey over time. Once a year I blast them with a power washer and they look brand new. I don't even bother to add extra oil to them. Refinishing or completely removing Cetol is a major project when compared to the minor maintenance of natural, oiled teak. And the natural teak looks a hell of a lot better. Eisboch On my last daysailer, I had a teak thwart.have to admit, I liked oiling it. It always looked great for a month or two. With our short seasons up here... it would be no big deal to wipe down a bit of teak three or four times the entire season. Now if I can just remove the $%^% black paint the PO used to cover up my current sailboat's teak rubrails, hand holds and casing around companionway I'd gladly rub a little oil on. |
What is the right way to refinish Teak?
"Charlie Morgan" wrote in message ... On Wed, 20 Sep 2006 07:51:53 -0400, "Eisboch" wrote: Many full time cruisers in the tropics apply a coat of clear to all exterior brightwork to seal the grain, and then paint over all of it with beige Sears weatherbeater house paint. Lasts for many years with no attention, and it can be removed when the boat gets sold. CWM Heh. I remember the first new car that my father bought back in the '60s. In the fall he'd wash it, heavily wax it and leave it like that for the winter, without buffing the wax out. BTW ... one of our boats has no teak at all on it. We installed "Flexiteek" in the cockpit and on the cockpit gunnels a couple of years ago, just to break up the "whiteness" and sun glare. So far, it's held up well and is very authentic looking. http://www.flexiteak.com/ Eisboch |
What is the right way to refinish Teak?
Bert Robbins wrote:
wrote: I am refininshing a teak wood swim platform on an older boat. It is the first time I have done this. I read that I should strip the old varnish, sand down the gray wood, and refinish, basically. But should I oil the teak or put more varnish on it? It is out of the water except for a few hours a week when I am actually on the water. Thanks for the benefit of anyone's experience. Often. How about something like spar urethane? I was just up to the Port Townsend Wooden Boat Show and was looking at System 3's Spar Urethane. They were claiming it would last about 5yrs. It's damned expensive. I refinished the swim platform on our 28' Irwin with spar varnish (Behr, pre Home Depot). It held up pretty well except I made the mistake of not refinishing it immediatly after sanding so it bled oil. Now I have to redo some spots. Jim -- |
What is the right way to refinish Teak?
"James" wrote in message ink.net... How about something like spar urethane? I was just up to the Port Townsend Wooden Boat Show and was looking at System 3's Spar Urethane. They were claiming it would last about 5yrs. It's damned expensive. I refinished the swim platform on our 28' Irwin with spar varnish (Behr, pre Home Depot). It held up pretty well except I made the mistake of not refinishing it immediatly after sanding so it bled oil. Now I have to redo some spots. Jim There's a website done by a guy that tested various varnishes, urethanes, spar varnish and acrylics for durability and UV protection. For UV, he determined that there was basically no difference in any of them. The worst for durability was a varnish purchased at the Home Depot, but I've forgotten the brand. I looked quickly for the website but couldn't find it right away. Right now I am shutting this 'puter down and heading for the boat. Eisboch |
What is the right way to refinish Teak?
Charlie Morgan wrote: Cetol is not just orange. It has other distinctive properties. You seem VERY ignorant on this subject. CWM Better by far than what you seem to be. If you're a big Cetol fan, great. The "right way" to refinish teak has been a subject for debate among mariners since forever- something most boaters would know and appreciate- and adults discussing various points of view don't call one another "ignorant" based on a difference of preferences. If you order steak and I ordr seafood at the same restaurant, is one of us "ignorant"? I dislike Cetol immensely because of the orange cast it imparts to wood. That's a subjective opinion, not a scientific treatise on the chemical properties of the product. One is neither ignorant nor informed based upon a personal like or dislike. I dislike you immensely, without knowing anything else at all about you, because you initiate dialogue with a personal attack. That's also a subjective opinion, as well as an objective statement of an observed fact. |
What is the right way to refinish Teak?
Charlie Morgan wrote: Cetol gloss is an entirely different product than Cetol Marine. Cetol Marine breathes and is very durable. I would not characterize Cetol Marine as a "stain", either. You may want to take that up with Sikkens. They describe Cetol Marine as containing "pigments". How would you characterize a non-opaque application of pigment via an oil or water base if not as a "stain"? Cetol Gloss is a different product than Cetol Marine, but according to Sikkens can only be applied over Cetol Marine. It's the optional gloss finish for the funky orange Cetol. Regardless, the OP was wondering about refinishing a swimstep and most people would not recommend a glossy finish (via Cetol Gloss or varnish) on a deck or a swim step. To each his own. I'm willing to adust to the color and spend more time sailing than constantly touching up varnish. Many people get fanatical about varnish and brightwork because they don't actually like going out and sailing as much as they would want you to believe. Many full time cruisers in the tropics apply a coat of clear to all exterior brightwork to seal the grain, and then paint over all of it with beige Sears weatherbeater house paint. Lasts for many years with no attention, and it can be removed when the boat gets sold. ROTFLMAO Now there's some sage advice. "Cover the teak with Sears housepaint and remove it just prior to selling the boat." (Cruise around looking like schidt in the meantime). Guess that gets us right back to the original comment you thought was so ignorant, doesn't it? "You can get the same effect from orange paint as from Cetol" |
What is the right way to refinish Teak?
"Charlie Morgan" wrote in message ... On 20 Sep 2006 07:59:01 -0700, "Chuck Gould" wrote: Charlie Morgan wrote: Cetol is not just orange. It has other distinctive properties. You seem VERY ignorant on this subject. CWM Better by far than what you seem to be. If you're a big Cetol fan, great. The "right way" to refinish teak has been a subject for debate among mariners since forever- something most boaters would know and appreciate- and adults discussing various points of view don't call one another "ignorant" based on a difference of preferences. If you order steak and I ordr seafood at the same restaurant, is one of us "ignorant"? I dislike Cetol immensely because of the orange cast it imparts to wood. That's a subjective opinion, not a scientific treatise on the chemical properties of the product. One is neither ignorant nor informed based upon a personal like or dislike. I dislike you immensely, without knowing anything else at all about you, because you initiate dialogue with a personal attack. That's also a subjective opinion, as well as an objective statement of an observed fact. No, Chuck, you made incorrect statements about Cetol and presented them as if they were facts. If you believed what you said, then there is no other way to describe you than as being ignorant. If you eventually learn the truth about Cetol, then you won't be ignorant any longer. CWM Ah, I see Chuck made another friend here on rec.boats. Perhaps he's due for another self-imposed sabbatical. |
What is the right way to refinish Teak?
NOYB wrote:
Ah, I see Chuck made another friend here on rec.boats. Perhaps he's due for another self-imposed sabbatical. Maybe. This time it was religion, not politics. Plus "Charlie Morgan" (the former "Binary Bill" plus a number of other aliases) is not really anybody's friend, anyway. DSK |
What is the right way to refinish Teak?
Charlie Morgan wrote: No, Chuck, you made incorrect statements about Cetol and presented them as if they were facts. If you believed what you said, then there is no other way to describe you than as being ignorant. If you eventually learn the truth about Cetol, then you won't be ignorant any longer. CWM I said that Cetol looks like orange paint. Sorry, Charlie, but that remains my opinion and it is shared by a large number of other people. You are entitled to paint your butt, belt, or bicycle with Cetol if you so desire. Doesn't make me ignorant if I don't paint mine as well. |
What is the right way to refinish Teak?
Charlie Morgan wrote: On 20 Sep 2006 08:20:40 -0700, "Chuck Gould" wrote: Charlie Morgan wrote: Cetol gloss is an entirely different product than Cetol Marine. Cetol Marine breathes and is very durable. I would not characterize Cetol Marine as a "stain", either. You may want to take that up with Sikkens. They describe Cetol Marine as containing "pigments". How would you characterize a non-opaque application of pigment via an oil or water base if not as a "stain"? Okay, now we've established that you don't even know the difference between paint and stain. CWM Sorry, a renewed personal attack doesn't get you off the hook here. Does your answer indicate that you feel Cetol is a "paint"? If not, please reply directly and without digressing to personal remarks to: "How would you characterize a non-opaque applicatin of pigment via an oil or water base if not as a 'stain'"? (An additional personal remark or failure to respond at all will be accepted as an indicator that you feel Cetol is a paint). |
What is the right way to refinish Teak?
NOYB wrote: Ah, I see Chuck made another friend here on rec.boats. Perhaps he's due for another self-imposed sabbatical. NOYB? What the heck are you doing here? This is a boating discussion that has nothing to do with politics at all. Are you trying to develop an interest in the subject? If so, great! |
What is the right way to refinish Teak?
"Charlie Morgan" wrote in message ... On 20 Sep 2006 09:04:43 -0700, "Chuck Gould" wrote: Charlie Morgan wrote: No, Chuck, you made incorrect statements about Cetol and presented them as if they were facts. If you believed what you said, then there is no other way to describe you than as being ignorant. If you eventually learn the truth about Cetol, then you won't be ignorant any longer. CWM I said that Cetol looks like orange paint. Nope, that's not what you said. CWM Charlie, is your middle name "Weathered"? (just kidding) Eisboch (on da boat) |
What is the right way to refinish Teak?
Charlie Morgan wrote: On 20 Sep 2006 09:12:12 -0700, "Chuck Gould" wrote: Charlie Morgan wrote: On 20 Sep 2006 08:20:40 -0700, "Chuck Gould" wrote: Charlie Morgan wrote: Cetol gloss is an entirely different product than Cetol Marine. Cetol Marine breathes and is very durable. I would not characterize Cetol Marine as a "stain", either. You may want to take that up with Sikkens. They describe Cetol Marine as containing "pigments". How would you characterize a non-opaque application of pigment via an oil or water base if not as a "stain"? Okay, now we've established that you don't even know the difference between paint and stain. CWM Sorry, a renewed personal attack doesn't get you off the hook here. Does your answer indicate that you feel Cetol is a "paint"? If not, please reply directly and without digressing to personal remarks to: "How would you characterize a non-opaque applicatin of pigment via an oil or water base if not as a 'stain'"? (An additional personal remark or failure to respond at all will be accepted as an indicator that you feel Cetol is a paint). Accept whatever you want, buttplug. You'll just be wrong about a longer list of things. CWM OK. So we now at least know where you stand. You believe that Cetol is a paint. Wouldn't it be just as easy to express your opinion without resorting to name calling and personal remarks? Did you know that one reliable way to evalaute a debate is to note which party is resorting to personal remarks and insult? The common name for that party is "the loser". Do come back when you can speak to the actual merits of an issue, won't you? |
What is the right way to refinish Teak?
Charlie Morgan wrote:
On 20 Sep 2006 09:12:12 -0700, "Chuck Gould" wrote: Charlie Morgan wrote: On 20 Sep 2006 08:20:40 -0700, "Chuck Gould" wrote: Charlie Morgan wrote: Cetol gloss is an entirely different product than Cetol Marine. Cetol Marine breathes and is very durable. I would not characterize Cetol Marine as a "stain", either. You may want to take that up with Sikkens. They describe Cetol Marine as containing "pigments". How would you characterize a non-opaque application of pigment via an oil or water base if not as a "stain"? Okay, now we've established that you don't even know the difference between paint and stain. CWM Sorry, a renewed personal attack doesn't get you off the hook here. Does your answer indicate that you feel Cetol is a "paint"? If not, please reply directly and without digressing to personal remarks to: "How would you characterize a non-opaque applicatin of pigment via an oil or water base if not as a 'stain'"? (An additional personal remark or failure to respond at all will be accepted as an indicator that you feel Cetol is a paint). Accept whatever you want, buttplug. You'll just be wrong about a longer list of things. CWM Charlie, What is the reason for working yourself into a tizzy over Cetol? There are people who think the orange tint looks crappy. Heck, even Cetol sells a "light" that they proudly say is not as orange as their regular. Your opinion that Cetol is the best thing for teak is your opinion. There are many who agree and many that disagree. Do you normally get so ****y every time someone disagrees with you? |
What is the right way to refinish Teak?
"Chuck Gould" wrote in message ups.com... NOYB wrote: Ah, I see Chuck made another friend here on rec.boats. Perhaps he's due for another self-imposed sabbatical. NOYB? What the heck are you doing here? This is a boating discussion that has nothing to do with politics at all. Are you trying to develop an interest in the subject? If so, great! Are these rhetorical questions, are are you trying to start a conversation again that you will deny starting once I reply? |
What is the right way to refinish Teak?
"Chuck Gould" wrote in message ups.com... NOYB wrote: Ah, I see Chuck made another friend here on rec.boats. Perhaps he's due for another self-imposed sabbatical. NOYB? What the heck are you doing here? This is a boating discussion that has nothing to do with politics at all. Are you trying to develop an interest in the subject? If so, great! LOL! |
What is the right way to refinish Teak?
" JimH" not telling you @ pffftt.com wrote in message . .. wrote in message ups.com... I am refininshing a teak wood swim platform on an older boat. It is the first time I have done this. I read that I should strip the old varnish, sand down the gray wood, and refinish, basically. But should I oil the teak or put more varnish on it? It is out of the water except for a few hours a week when I am actually on the water. Thanks for the benefit of anyone's experience. Several good links on this subject with great advice: http://www.boatdocs1.com/Articles_Teak.html http://www.sailnet.com/forums/gear-m...stol-teak.html Sorry jerriko....you asked a solid question yet the thread turned into a ****ing match. Yet another solid boating thread down the tubes........... |
What is the right way to refinish Teak?
"DSK" wrote in message
... Cetol is not just orange. It has other distinctive properties. "Cetol... it's not just for breakfast any more!" Frankly I have lost faith in various marine brands of miracle glop intended to make boating less time consuming and more skill-free . Wayne.B wrote: That's true, it does have other distictive properties: 1. It is *very* slippery when wet. 2. If not meticulously kept up, it looks like faded barn paint. 3. If it *is* meticulously kept up, it looks orange. How's that for keen observation ? If the wood on your boat has pretty grain and is well fit, in other words, an aesthetic plus; why would you slather some kind of miracle glop that hides the grain all over it? Just to save some time (which it doesn't in the long run) and to avoid learning the skill of varnishing? OTOH if the wood on your boat is not an aesthetic plus, then why bother with the time & effort of varnishing? For that matter, why bother with miracle glop that is 90% of the time & effort of varnishing? Just ****in' paint it and be done. Fresh Breezes- Doug King I don't know what's considered the modern way to handle teak. But, between 1967 and 1970, on my dad's Concorde, it was my job to maintain the teak. I used a powder called Teak Bright and a deck brush to clean it. It was followed by an oil that soaked into the wood, but no other varnish coating of any kind. It worked beautifully. |
What is the right way to refinish Teak?
Right now I am shutting this 'puter down and heading for the boat. Eisboch I think Oil sounds the best after reading all the posts. I have almost finished sanding and the grain is beautiful. I would like it to show and certainly don't want to hide it with orange paint. Varnish is a close second as I think it can look great but probably wouldn't be as good on a swim platform as on a hand rail. I am worried that the oil will discolor but it sounds like it will be easier to clean and redo than varnish. I am at least grateful that I can refinish the teak. I also have a Mirage that has a gel coat swim platform and it already looks brown discolored and dull after only a few years and I gather there is very little I can do about this (short of painting it orange). |
What is the right way to refinish Teak?
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