Convert from carb to EFI?
 

I store my boat in Washington state, and only get up there
occasionally to use it. That won't change for another year. The boat
is stored outside, and I have had numerous water/corrosion related
problems.

Much of the problems probably occur from lack of use. The last
problem was that the needle and seat seemed to be sticking. The
engine would run fine, then run rich after a while. Now it seems to
be stuck running way too rich. I am looking for a used carb to
rebuild, and will take up there which should reduce the downtime.

---Steve


On Mon, 07 Jul 2003 14:28:22 GMT, "Tony Thomas"
wrote:

Given the cost of well over $1000 to convert, I would suggest the following.
1. Install electric fuel pump. - Helps w/ cold starts and fuel vapor lock
issues.
2. Use as a minimum 89 octane fuel to prevent diesel. (I personally like 93
octane for the little extra cost it makes a world of difference).
3. Get your carb setup right and idle set right.

Tony

"Steve" wrote in message
.. .
I own a 23' sportfisherman and am getting a little tired of carburetor
problems. I was wondering if anyone knew mutch about switching over
to fuel injection.

Are the aftermarket kits good? Some better than others?
Are the OEM products better? What is involved if going with OEM?

I recently rebuilt the engine, and do not want to buy a new one at
this point. I have a 302 Ford marinized by Volvo Penta. It has a 2
bbl carburetor. Power level is okay, just want less hassle.

Steve

Convert from carb to EFI?
 

Use fuel stabilizer and install a fuel shutoff valve so you can run the
engine out of fuel before storing.

Fuel injection won't help much w/ this as the injectors will/can get clogged
from old fuel also.

Tony

"Steve" wrote in message
...
I store my boat in Washington state, and only get up there
occasionally to use it. That won't change for another year. The boat
is stored outside, and I have had numerous water/corrosion related
problems.

Much of the problems probably occur from lack of use. The last
problem was that the needle and seat seemed to be sticking. The
engine would run fine, then run rich after a while. Now it seems to
be stuck running way too rich. I am looking for a used carb to
rebuild, and will take up there which should reduce the downtime.

---Steve


On Mon, 07 Jul 2003 14:28:22 GMT, "Tony Thomas"
wrote:

Given the cost of well over $1000 to convert, I would suggest the
following.
1. Install electric fuel pump. - Helps w/ cold starts and fuel vapor
lock
issues.
2. Use as a minimum 89 octane fuel to prevent diesel. (I personally like
93
octane for the little extra cost it makes a world of difference).
3. Get your carb setup right and idle set right.

Tony

"Steve" wrote in message
.. .
I own a 23' sportfisherman and am getting a little tired of carburetor
problems. I was wondering if anyone knew mutch about switching over
to fuel injection.

Are the aftermarket kits good? Some better than others?
Are the OEM products better? What is involved if going with OEM?

I recently rebuilt the engine, and do not want to buy a new one at
this point. I have a 302 Ford marinized by Volvo Penta. It has a 2
bbl carburetor. Power level is okay, just want less hassle.

Steve