In slip for the summer - what maintenance issues?
 

I have a 1988 Searay Seville, 3.0 liter. I had the outdrive rebuilt
about six months ago.

I've put it in the water at the local marina that's 15 min. away out of
convenience. It's easy to jump in after work and go for a spin.

This year, I put it in the slip for the month of August and probably
will do most of Sept before I pull it out and put it in my garage. Next
year, I'll probably do it longer.

I haven't done an extra maintenance to protect the outdrive or hull and
wondering if I need to given that it will be in the water for about
three months. Any opinions?

Thanks,
Eric

In slip for the summer - what maintenance issues?
 

wrote in message
oups.com...
I have a 1988 Searay Seville, 3.0 liter. I had the outdrive rebuilt
about six months ago.

I've put it in the water at the local marina that's 15 min. away out of
convenience. It's easy to jump in after work and go for a spin.

This year, I put it in the slip for the month of August and probably
will do most of Sept before I pull it out and put it in my garage. Next
year, I'll probably do it longer.

I haven't done an extra maintenance to protect the outdrive or hull and
wondering if I need to given that it will be in the water for about
three months. Any opinions?

Thanks,
Eric


Make sure your anodes are in good condition.

After a day of use and docking the boat I trim my outdrive to the maximum up
position to get as much of it out of the water as I can. Just make sure to
trim it down when you go back to the boat and start the engine.

Nothing more that you can do before pulling the boat out of the water for
the season and winterizing the engine and outdrive.

If you keep the boat in the water for more than a month or so make sure you
bottom paint it. You may even want to consider epoxy barrier coating the
bottom to prevent blisters. It is not hard to do, just tedious and messy.
After 4 coats of the epoxy coat you can apply one or two coats of bottom
paint. A word of caution. This will slow your boat down at least 5 mph
at WOT due to the additional friction. ;-)

In slip for the summer - what maintenance issues?
 

Thanks Jim.

Do you use the "Trailer" button to bring the outdrive all the way up or
just the trim?

Sorry for the ignorance, but do you mean the anodes on the trim tab?
I'm a technician sort of person so is it a do-it-yourself sort of
thing?

Actually, the "UP" on my trim has been a little flakey the past couple
of weeks. The "Trailer" works fine to bring it up. I figured it was the
switch in the handle and was going to wait for end-of-season to open up
the handle. Could it be the trim tab anode is corroded?

BTW. I'm talking all freshwater.

Thanks.


Make sure your anodes are in good condition.

After a day of use and docking the boat I trim my outdrive to the maximum up
position to get as much of it out of the water as I can. Just make sure to
trim it down when you go back to the boat and start the engine.

Nothing more that you can do before pulling the boat out of the water for
the season and winterizing the engine and outdrive.

If you keep the boat in the water for more than a month or so make sure you
bottom paint it. You may even want to consider epoxy barrier coating the
bottom to prevent blisters. It is not hard to do, just tedious and messy.
After 4 coats of the epoxy coat you can apply one or two coats of bottom
paint. A word of caution. This will slow your boat down at least 5 mph
at WOT due to the additional friction. ;-)

In slip for the summer - what maintenance issues?
 

wrote in message
ups.com...
Thanks Jim.

Do you use the "Trailer" button to bring the outdrive all the way up or
just the trim?

Just the trim.



Sorry for the ignorance, but do you mean the anodes on the trim tab?
I'm a technician sort of person so is it a do-it-yourself sort of
thing?

The anodes are on the outdrive. Because you are in fresh water use
magnesium anodes. You may need to replace them every couple of years when
keeping the boat in the water during the season.

You should purchase a Seloc manual for your particular engine and outdrive.
It will detail where parts are located on the engine or outdrive, including
the anodes on the outdrive. In your case you would order a manual for a
1988 3L Alpha 1 Mercruiser outdrive.



Actually, the "UP" on my trim has been a little flakey the past couple
of weeks. The "Trailer" works fine to bring it up. I figured it was the
switch in the handle and was going to wait for end-of-season to open up
the handle. Could it be the trim tab anode is corroded?

BTW. I'm talking all freshwater.

Thanks.

Trim tab anode? No. It could be the set points on the trim. Have a Merc
mechanic take a look at it.




Make sure your anodes are in good condition.

After a day of use and docking the boat I trim my outdrive to the maximum
up
position to get as much of it out of the water as I can. Just make sure
to
trim it down when you go back to the boat and start the engine.

Nothing more that you can do before pulling the boat out of the water for
the season and winterizing the engine and outdrive.

If you keep the boat in the water for more than a month or so make sure
you
bottom paint it. You may even want to consider epoxy barrier coating the
bottom to prevent blisters. It is not hard to do, just tedious and
messy.
After 4 coats of the epoxy coat you can apply one or two coats of bottom
paint. A word of caution. This will slow your boat down at least 5
mph
at WOT due to the additional friction. ;-)

In slip for the summer - what maintenance issues?
 

How important is it to do this if I keep it in the water for three
months during the summer?

The labor time doesn't bother me, but the performance hit is something
I could do without.

Would a wax job be good enough?

Thanks for the Seloc link.

If you keep the boat in the water for more than a month or so make sure you
bottom paint it. You may even want to consider epoxy barrier coating the
bottom to prevent blisters. It is not hard to do, just tedious and messy.
After 4 coats of the epoxy coat you can apply one or two coats of bottom
paint. A word of caution. This will slow your boat down at least 5 mph
at WOT due to the additional friction. ;-)

In slip for the summer - what maintenance issues?
 

wrote in message
ps.com...
How important is it to do this if I keep it in the water for three
months during the summer?

The labor time doesn't bother me, but the performance hit is something
I could do without.

Would a wax job be good enough?

Thanks for the Seloc link.


A wax job would not be enough.

You will have to bottom paint.



If you keep the boat in the water for more than a month or so make sure
you
bottom paint it. You may even want to consider epoxy barrier coating the
bottom to prevent blisters. It is not hard to do, just tedious and
messy.
After 4 coats of the epoxy coat you can apply one or two coats of bottom
paint. A word of caution. This will slow your boat down at least 5
mph
at WOT due to the additional friction. ;-)