The boat will run now for several minutes and then stall.

It needs help starting with some fuel poured in the carb.

I have found that the carb adjusting screws do not work any longer.

The engine runs smooth with both the screws turned all the way in.

There are NO used carbs on ebay if anyone has one on a garage shelf.

I need a GM250 six cylinder 165 hp single barrel carb.

I will need to change the oil again. There is a slight trace of water
in the engine oil again. The manifold has not stop dripping water yet
from the area under the carb.

I live in Barnegat New Jersey

Thanks

Sonofadocker with cap locks off.

Sometimes when the idle misture screws do not have an effect, it is because
the engine is running so badly that the idle speed is turned up so much that
the engine is idling off the main jets. If it looks like the carb plates
are opened any more than just a little bit that might be your problem. I
would not condem the carb yet. Getting wet doesn't hurt carburators if they
don't stay wet so long that they corrode.

Are you certain it is water leaking into the intake at the bottom of the
carb? I did not think that there was any water jackets in the V6 intake at
all. I admit I am not as familiar with the 6s as I am the 8s. I'm not sure
how you are getting water into the intake. I suggest sticking a dry paint
drush down there in it and then smell it to make sure it is not gas you are
seeing. Or do you already know for certain it is water? You do mean the
bottom of the intake when looking down into the carb throat? Or do you mean
taht water is dripping off the bottom of the manifold into the bilge?

Did you check the water separator in the fuel system to see if it has water
in it? It is not unusal to get some water into the fuel system.

Do you believe the rest of the engine has dried out competely? Is it
possible you have some wet ignition parts? You could remove the cap and
check for condensation. You can also run it in the evening with no lights
on and look for arcing across the wires.

This boat ran ok before the storm?

Before you start buying expensive parts in all honetsy I would recomend you
try to find someone that can actually look at. Suggestions over the
internet only go so far. It is hard to diagnose an engine via a newgroup.

Thanks for turning the caps lock off.

"sonofadocker" wrote in message
ups.com...
The boat will run now for several minutes and then stall.

It needs help starting with some fuel poured in the carb.

I have found that the carb adjusting screws do not work any longer.

The engine runs smooth with both the screws turned all the way in.

There are NO used carbs on ebay if anyone has one on a garage shelf.

I need a GM250 six cylinder 165 hp single barrel carb.

I will need to change the oil again. There is a slight trace of water
in the engine oil again. The manifold has not stop dripping water yet
from the area under the carb.

I live in Barnegat New Jersey

Thanks

Sonofadocker with cap locks off.

Hey James,

The boat finally started and idled very well for almost three hours
after it started. I had to use gas in a squirt bottle to get it to run.
It was running while dark and there were no arching wires.
The motor is a straight six. The water drip is coming from the inner
underside of manifold. It is dripping down the block into the bilge
area. The water is actually leaving rusty color stain on the black
engine block.
The leak is coming from between the manifold and the block where I can
not see. It is minor but does it mean a bigger problem ?
The boat by 8pm tonight was idleing at the dock like it used to.
Saturday I will attempt to start it again.
I will see if I have to use the squeeze bottle again. I will look at
the throttle plates. Another item I can not find in any catologe is the
stock throttle return spring. Not even the local auto parts have it for
cars and trucks. The one size fits all spring does not return the
throttle to low idle...makes docking fun ! This makes setting the idle
hard to do because the universal spring does not return the idle to
650-800 rpm range.
Lastly the 12 inches of rain stopped my eletric connection to my
starter and the down relay for the outdrive. I am stuck in the up
postion and using a screw driver to jump the starter..many winter items
on the list now to fix.

Thanks again. I will advise the group of saturdays events.

James wrote:
Sometimes when the idle misture screws do not have an effect, it is because
the engine is running so badly that the idle speed is turned up so much that
the engine is idling off the main jets. If it looks like the carb plates
are opened any more than just a little bit that might be your problem. I
would not condem the carb yet. Getting wet doesn't hurt carburators if they
don't stay wet so long that they corrode.

Are you certain it is water leaking into the intake at the bottom of the
carb? I did not think that there was any water jackets in the V6 intake at
all. I admit I am not as familiar with the 6s as I am the 8s. I'm not sure
how you are getting water into the intake. I suggest sticking a dry paint
drush down there in it and then smell it to make sure it is not gas you are
seeing. Or do you already know for certain it is water? You do mean the
bottom of the intake when looking down into the carb throat? Or do you mean
taht water is dripping off the bottom of the manifold into the bilge?

Did you check the water separator in the fuel system to see if it has water
in it? It is not unusal to get some water into the fuel system.

Do you believe the rest of the engine has dried out competely? Is it
possible you have some wet ignition parts? You could remove the cap and
check for condensation. You can also run it in the evening with no lights
on and look for arcing across the wires.

This boat ran ok before the storm?

Before you start buying expensive parts in all honetsy I would recomend you
try to find someone that can actually look at. Suggestions over the
internet only go so far. It is hard to diagnose an engine via a newgroup.

Thanks for turning the caps lock off.

"sonofadocker" wrote in message
ups.com...
The boat will run now for several minutes and then stall.

It needs help starting with some fuel poured in the carb.

I have found that the carb adjusting screws do not work any longer.

The engine runs smooth with both the screws turned all the way in.

There are NO used carbs on ebay if anyone has one on a garage shelf.

I need a GM250 six cylinder 165 hp single barrel carb.

I will need to change the oil again. There is a slight trace of water
in the engine oil again. The manifold has not stop dripping water yet
from the area under the carb.

I live in Barnegat New Jersey

Thanks

Sonofadocker with cap locks off.

Sounds like a bad gasket may be your water leak problem. Might have
pre-existed your storm issues. If it is not getting water inside the engine
anywhere a small outside leak is not a major problem. You still want to fix
it but it won't hurt it to run with a small outside leak.

Sometimes if the throttle cable is a little stiff that will cause it to be
hard to return to idle. Some of those springs can be shortened using
needlenose pliers. Since it's a universal one you can always try that and
just but another one if you don't like the outcome.

Instead of the squeeze bottle, if you have not tried it, try pumping the
throttle a few times before trying to start it. Might be that your choke is
not working well.

Yes, it does sound like you projects are lined up. Good luck.

"sonofadocker" wrote in message
ps.com...
Hey James,

The boat finally started and idled very well for almost three hours
after it started. I had to use gas in a squirt bottle to get it to run.
It was running while dark and there were no arching wires.
The motor is a straight six. The water drip is coming from the inner
underside of manifold. It is dripping down the block into the bilge
area. The water is actually leaving rusty color stain on the black
engine block.
The leak is coming from between the manifold and the block where I can
not see. It is minor but does it mean a bigger problem ?
The boat by 8pm tonight was idleing at the dock like it used to.
Saturday I will attempt to start it again.
I will see if I have to use the squeeze bottle again. I will look at
the throttle plates. Another item I can not find in any catologe is the
stock throttle return spring. Not even the local auto parts have it for
cars and trucks. The one size fits all spring does not return the
throttle to low idle...makes docking fun ! This makes setting the idle
hard to do because the universal spring does not return the idle to
650-800 rpm range.
Lastly the 12 inches of rain stopped my eletric connection to my
starter and the down relay for the outdrive. I am stuck in the up
postion and using a screw driver to jump the starter..many winter items
on the list now to fix.

Thanks again. I will advise the group of saturdays events.

James wrote:
Sometimes when the idle misture screws do not have an effect, it is
because
the engine is running so badly that the idle speed is turned up so much
that
the engine is idling off the main jets. If it looks like the carb plates
are opened any more than just a little bit that might be your problem. I
would not condem the carb yet. Getting wet doesn't hurt carburators if
they
don't stay wet so long that they corrode.

Are you certain it is water leaking into the intake at the bottom of the
carb? I did not think that there was any water jackets in the V6 intake
at
all. I admit I am not as familiar with the 6s as I am the 8s. I'm not
sure
how you are getting water into the intake. I suggest sticking a dry
paint
drush down there in it and then smell it to make sure it is not gas you
are
seeing. Or do you already know for certain it is water? You do mean the
bottom of the intake when looking down into the carb throat? Or do you
mean
taht water is dripping off the bottom of the manifold into the bilge?

Did you check the water separator in the fuel system to see if it has
water
in it? It is not unusal to get some water into the fuel system.

Do you believe the rest of the engine has dried out competely? Is it
possible you have some wet ignition parts? You could remove the cap and
check for condensation. You can also run it in the evening with no
lights
on and look for arcing across the wires.

This boat ran ok before the storm?

Before you start buying expensive parts in all honetsy I would recomend
you
try to find someone that can actually look at. Suggestions over the
internet only go so far. It is hard to diagnose an engine via a
newgroup.

Thanks for turning the caps lock off.

"sonofadocker" wrote in message
ups.com...
The boat will run now for several minutes and then stall.

It needs help starting with some fuel poured in the carb.

I have found that the carb adjusting screws do not work any longer.

The engine runs smooth with both the screws turned all the way in.

There are NO used carbs on ebay if anyone has one on a garage shelf.

I need a GM250 six cylinder 165 hp single barrel carb.

I will need to change the oil again. There is a slight trace of water
in the engine oil again. The manifold has not stop dripping water yet
from the area under the carb.

I live in Barnegat New Jersey

Thanks

Sonofadocker with cap locks off.