fuel stabilizer
 

Hi all,

The season is about to end and I have 3/4 tank of gas in the boat. What
are the proper storage procedure for the new and improved gasoline. I
assume you just pour in stabilizer but was concerned with the decay issue of
the ethanol.

Thanks
mark

fuel stabilizer
 

"Charlie Morgan" wrote in message
...
On Sun, 27 Aug 2006 12:45:24 -0400, "r_d"
wrote:

Hi all,

The season is about to end and I have 3/4 tank of gas in the boat. What
are the proper storage procedure for the new and improved gasoline. I
assume you just pour in stabilizer but was concerned with the decay issue
of
the ethanol.

Thanks
mark


Too late. Stabilizer must be added when the gas is fresh to do any good.
Siphon
the remaining gas out and use it in your car. Add some fresh gas with
stabilizer
to the boat's tank and run the engine enough to be sure that the carb and
lines
have fresh, stabilized gas in them.

CWM

Perhaps the OP put the gas in yesterday, ran off a 1/4 tank and now is
asking the question. Shouldn't be too late to add stabilizer if that's the
case. I try to remember to add the stabilizer at the beginning of the
season as I seldom use a full tank with my fishing motor.

Tom G.

fuel stabilizer
 

Unstabilized gas lasts about 30 days at the most.

CWM

Do you have any authoritive source for that statement? Most of the oil and
gasoline posts here sound like urban legends.

fuel stabilizer
 

This helps cure the urban legand[s]

Get a fresh 5 gallon can of lawnmower gas, get a whiff of it, and
leave it sit for a month,

then smell it and see if it's started to get "stale"

it happens around my place.



John Wentworth wrote:
Unstabilized gas lasts about 30 days at the most.

CWM

Do you have any authoritive source for that statement? Most of the oil and
gasoline posts here sound like urban legends.

fuel stabilizer
 

"Charlie Morgan" wrote in message
...
On Sun, 27 Aug 2006 18:19:33 -0400, "John Wentworth"
wrote:

Unstabilized gas lasts about 30 days at the most.

CWM

Do you have any authoritive source for that statement? Most of the oil
and
gasoline posts here sound like urban legends.


Good lord!

CWM
Good lord my butt. If you really believe that straight gasoline goes bad
after 30 days you probably also believe that the black helicopters are
circling your house every night. Park your car for 30 days; do you really
think you'll see a difference in the performance?

fuel stabilizer
 

Ignore these guys and add stabilizer.

It is also a good idea to store the boat with either a full tank or a
completely empty tank. Gas expands and contracts a good deal with
temperature change and it increases the moisture in you tank when it
"breathes". So fill your boat the rest of the way after you add the
stabilizer. And run it on muffs for a few minutes to get the gas with
stabiliwer into the carb.

"r_d" wrote in message
. com...
Hi all,

The season is about to end and I have 3/4 tank of gas in the boat. What
are the proper storage procedure for the new and improved gasoline. I
assume you just pour in stabilizer but was concerned with the decay issue
of the ethanol.

Thanks
mark

fuel stabilizer
 

Simple question for you Charlie: Do you believe that untreated gasoline in a
marine fuel tank is corrupted after 30 days?

fuel stabilizer
 

"James" wrote in message news:turIg.2213
Gas expands and contracts a good deal with temperature change and it
increases the moisture in you tank when it "breathes".
How much do you think gasoline expands and contracts with temperature
change?
1% ? 10% ? .01% ? How much is a "good deal"? Please be clear on the
coefficient of thermal expansion for liquid gasoline versus gasoline vapors.

fuel stabilizer
 

The liquid gasoline expansion rate is almost 5 times higher than water.
In subjective language that is my "good deal".

There is a school of thought that you should fuel up in the morning
because you will get more gas by volume than you will in the afternoon.
I'm sceptical about that one because the gas in the underground tank
probably has a much smaller temperature range than an exposed tank.

John Wentworth wrote:
"James" wrote in message news:turIg.2213
Gas expands and contracts a good deal with temperature change and it
increases the moisture in you tank when it "breathes".
How much do you think gasoline expands and contracts with temperature
change?
1% ? 10% ? .01% ? How much is a "good deal"? Please be clear on the
coefficient of thermal expansion for liquid gasoline versus gasoline vapors.

fuel stabilizer
 

"jamesgangnc" wrote in message
ps.com...

There is a school of thought that you should fuel up in the morning
because you will get more gas by volume than you will in the afternoon.
I'm sceptical about that one because the gas in the underground tank
probably has a much smaller temperature range than an exposed tank.

I've read that a 15°F temperature change in gasoline will cause a 1% change
in volume.

fuel stabilizer
 

"Charlie Morgan" wrote in message
...
On Sun, 27 Aug 2006 21:24:26 -0400, "John Wentworth"
wrote:

Simple question for you Charlie: Do you believe that untreated gasoline in
a
marine fuel tank is corrupted after 30 days?



Yes, it is breaking down and starting to precipitate solids.

CWM

I agree Charlie. It is garbage. Please save all your 30 day old corrupted
gas for me. If you live too far away you should give it away to those who
can *tolerate* 30 day old gasoline. That way you won't have to worry about
contaminating that engine and gas tank of yours. ;-)

fuel stabilizer
 

Charlie Morgan wrote:
On Mon, 28 Aug 2006 15:56:35 -0400, " JimH" not telling you @ pffftt.com
wrote:


"Charlie Morgan" wrote in message
.. .
On Sun, 27 Aug 2006 21:24:26 -0400, "John Wentworth"
wrote:

Simple question for you Charlie: Do you believe that untreated gasoline in
a
marine fuel tank is corrupted after 30 days?



Yes, it is breaking down and starting to precipitate solids.

CWM

I agree Charlie. It is garbage. Please save all your 30 day old corrupted
gas for me. If you live too far away you should give it away to those who
can *tolerate* 30 day old gasoline. That way you won't have to worry about
contaminating that engine and gas tank of yours. ;-)


Okay, I agree you are an idiot. So noted.

CWM


OK.

So where can I go to collect your stale 30 day old gas that you find
unacceptable?

fuel stabilizer
 

What you are not telling us is what kind of engine you have. If it is a 2-stroke,
this kind of engine is much less sensitive to particles blocking the carburetor,
mainly because the oil in the gas helps to prevent this. After going through two
2-stroke engines over a 20 year period, I never had anything like the problems I'm
having
with this Yamaha 9.9 Four Stroke. I have had to tear down the carbs twice myself,
and have a mechanic do it once, all this season. It is now blocked again, so I
will
have to clean it this week. People giving comments about old gas not being a
problem should qualify what kind of engine (2 or 4 stroke) they are currently
using.

Sherwin D.

Harry Krause wrote:

jamesgangnc wrote:
The liquid gasoline expansion rate is almost 5 times higher than water.
In subjective language that is my "good deal".

There is a school of thought that you should fuel up in the morning
because you will get more gas by volume than you will in the afternoon.
I'm sceptical about that one because the gas in the underground tank
probably has a much smaller temperature range than an exposed tank.

John Wentworth wrote:
"James" wrote in message news:turIg.2213
Gas expands and contracts a good deal with temperature change and it
increases the moisture in you tank when it "breathes".
How much do you think gasoline expands and contracts with temperature
change?
1% ? 10% ? .01% ? How much is a "good deal"? Please be clear on the
coefficient of thermal expansion for liquid gasoline versus gasoline vapors.


This must be a discussion for those suffering from OCD.

In the last 16 years, I haven't paid the slightest bit of attention to
this sort of nonsense during my outboard boats' operating seasons, and I
haven't have one single problem in any way attributable to water in the
fuel. None. Zip. With my current outboard boat, I doubt if I've filled
the tank (170 gallons) more than twice. I usually fill to no more than
half a tank.

fuel stabilizer
 

FWIW from my own personal experiences it is less about 2 stroke verses
4 stroke as it is about the design of the carburator(s). I find that
carbs that do not use a float bowl tolerate not running for extended
periods a lot better. Like my chain saw and weed wacker. Conversly I
find that carbs with a float bowl, particularly those that have the jet
orifices in or near the bottom of the float bowl, get gummed up when
the gas in the float bowl evaporates. Like my 4kw generator. I don't
find that stabilizer stops the evaporation of the gas in the float
bowl. I can't say one way or another if the stabilizer does anything
to reduce the deposits left when the gas does evaporate. It seems
unlikely. I can see how stabilizer could keep the extraneous solids in
suspension but not how it could make them evaporate with the gas. It
also seems worse on smaller engines presumably because they have
smaller jets in their carbs. What works best for me on those carbs is
to either run the gas out of the carb when I finish using it or drain
the float bowl.


sherwindu wrote:
What you are not telling us is what kind of engine you have. If it is a 2-stroke,
this kind of engine is much less sensitive to particles blocking the carburetor,
mainly because the oil in the gas helps to prevent this. After going through two
2-stroke engines over a 20 year period, I never had anything like the problems I'm
having
with this Yamaha 9.9 Four Stroke. I have had to tear down the carbs twice myself,
and have a mechanic do it once, all this season. It is now blocked again, so I
will
have to clean it this week. People giving comments about old gas not being a
problem should qualify what kind of engine (2 or 4 stroke) they are currently
using.

Sherwin D.

Harry Krause wrote:

jamesgangnc wrote:
The liquid gasoline expansion rate is almost 5 times higher than water.
In subjective language that is my "good deal".

There is a school of thought that you should fuel up in the morning
because you will get more gas by volume than you will in the afternoon.
I'm sceptical about that one because the gas in the underground tank
probably has a much smaller temperature range than an exposed tank.

John Wentworth wrote:
"James" wrote in message news:turIg.2213
Gas expands and contracts a good deal with temperature change and it
increases the moisture in you tank when it "breathes".
How much do you think gasoline expands and contracts with temperature
change?
1% ? 10% ? .01% ? How much is a "good deal"? Please be clear on the
coefficient of thermal expansion for liquid gasoline versus gasoline vapors.


This must be a discussion for those suffering from OCD.

In the last 16 years, I haven't paid the slightest bit of attention to
this sort of nonsense during my outboard boats' operating seasons, and I
haven't have one single problem in any way attributable to water in the
fuel. None. Zip. With my current outboard boat, I doubt if I've filled
the tank (170 gallons) more than twice. I usually fill to no more than
half a tank.

fuel stabilizer
 

"jamesgangnc" wrote in message
oups.com...

FWIW from my own personal experiences it is less about 2 stroke verses
4 stroke as it is about the design of the carburator(s). I find that
carbs that do not use a float bowl tolerate not running for extended
periods a lot better. Like my chain saw and weed wacker. Conversly I
find that carbs with a float bowl, particularly those that have the jet
orifices in or near the bottom of the float bowl, get gummed up when
the gas in the float bowl evaporates. Like my 4kw generator. I don't
find that stabilizer stops the evaporation of the gas in the float
bowl. I can't say one way or another if the stabilizer does anything
to reduce the deposits left when the gas does evaporate. It seems
unlikely. I can see how stabilizer could keep the extraneous solids in
suspension but not how it could make them evaporate with the gas. It
also seems worse on smaller engines presumably because they have
smaller jets in their carbs. What works best for me on those carbs is
to either run the gas out of the carb when I finish using it or drain
the float bowl.



This subject was debated at length recently in another newsgroup. I did a
little Internet research and found that virtually every small engine
manufacturer or manufacturer of a product that uses small gasoline engines
specifically recommended the use of a fuel stabilizer to be added to fresh
gasoline and run before long term storage and non-use (more than a month).
The manufacturers included Onan, Kohler, Briggs & Stratton, Honda, Kawasaki
and even Harley Davidson. Some specifically mentioned Stab-il ... some
simply mentioned "a fuel stabilizer" and, as usual, HD even sells their own
repackaged and overpriced brand.

Based on that, plus the fact that I've been using it for years and have
never had fuel problems after storage, I'll continue using it. It's cheap
insurance.

Eisboch

fuel stabilizer
 

Fuel stabilizer did not help my generator. After sitting it would miss
and surge until I disassembled the carb and cleaned the main jet with a
wire drill. It would run fine on the old gas with stabilizer after
cleaning the jet. Even if the gas was a year old. Once I started
running the gas out of the carb I stopped having problems. I have not
had to clean the carb or jets for several years now.

Eisboch wrote:
"jamesgangnc" wrote in message
oups.com...

FWIW from my own personal experiences it is less about 2 stroke verses
4 stroke as it is about the design of the carburator(s). I find that
carbs that do not use a float bowl tolerate not running for extended
periods a lot better. Like my chain saw and weed wacker. Conversly I
find that carbs with a float bowl, particularly those that have the jet
orifices in or near the bottom of the float bowl, get gummed up when
the gas in the float bowl evaporates. Like my 4kw generator. I don't
find that stabilizer stops the evaporation of the gas in the float
bowl. I can't say one way or another if the stabilizer does anything
to reduce the deposits left when the gas does evaporate. It seems
unlikely. I can see how stabilizer could keep the extraneous solids in
suspension but not how it could make them evaporate with the gas. It
also seems worse on smaller engines presumably because they have
smaller jets in their carbs. What works best for me on those carbs is
to either run the gas out of the carb when I finish using it or drain
the float bowl.



This subject was debated at length recently in another newsgroup. I did a
little Internet research and found that virtually every small engine
manufacturer or manufacturer of a product that uses small gasoline engines
specifically recommended the use of a fuel stabilizer to be added to fresh
gasoline and run before long term storage and non-use (more than a month).
The manufacturers included Onan, Kohler, Briggs & Stratton, Honda, Kawasaki
and even Harley Davidson. Some specifically mentioned Stab-il ... some
simply mentioned "a fuel stabilizer" and, as usual, HD even sells their own
repackaged and overpriced brand.

Based on that, plus the fact that I've been using it for years and have
never had fuel problems after storage, I'll continue using it. It's cheap
insurance.

Eisboch

fuel stabilizer
 

You may be right about the float bowls causing the jets to clog up. I'm also wondering
about gasohol as a contributing culprit. Maybe the Stabil type preservatives cannot
prevent this gas from deteriorating and leaving deposits on the
tiny jets in most small engine 4 strokes. I never had this kind of problem with the
two 2 strokes I owned, a British Seagull and a Chrysler. This is an issue the boating
and engine industry seems to be ducking. In the meantime, boat owners have to jump
through hoops to drain their carbs, switch gas often, add stablizers, etc., etc.

Sherwin D.

jamesgangnc wrote:

FWIW from my own personal experiences it is less about 2 stroke verses
4 stroke as it is about the design of the carburator(s). I find that
carbs that do not use a float bowl tolerate not running for extended
periods a lot better. Like my chain saw and weed wacker. Conversly I
find that carbs with a float bowl, particularly those that have the jet
orifices in or near the bottom of the float bowl, get gummed up when
the gas in the float bowl evaporates. Like my 4kw generator. I don't
find that stabilizer stops the evaporation of the gas in the float
bowl. I can't say one way or another if the stabilizer does anything
to reduce the deposits left when the gas does evaporate. It seems
unlikely. I can see how stabilizer could keep the extraneous solids in
suspension but not how it could make them evaporate with the gas. It
also seems worse on smaller engines presumably because they have
smaller jets in their carbs. What works best for me on those carbs is
to either run the gas out of the carb when I finish using it or drain
the float bowl.

sherwindu wrote:
What you are not telling us is what kind of engine you have. If it is a 2-stroke,
this kind of engine is much less sensitive to particles blocking the carburetor,
mainly because the oil in the gas helps to prevent this. After going through two
2-stroke engines over a 20 year period, I never had anything like the problems I'm
having
with this Yamaha 9.9 Four Stroke. I have had to tear down the carbs twice myself,
and have a mechanic do it once, all this season. It is now blocked again, so I
will
have to clean it this week. People giving comments about old gas not being a
problem should qualify what kind of engine (2 or 4 stroke) they are currently
using.

Sherwin D.

Harry Krause wrote:

jamesgangnc wrote:
The liquid gasoline expansion rate is almost 5 times higher than water.
In subjective language that is my "good deal".

There is a school of thought that you should fuel up in the morning
because you will get more gas by volume than you will in the afternoon.
I'm sceptical about that one because the gas in the underground tank
probably has a much smaller temperature range than an exposed tank.

John Wentworth wrote:
"James" wrote in message news:turIg.2213
Gas expands and contracts a good deal with temperature change and it
increases the moisture in you tank when it "breathes".
How much do you think gasoline expands and contracts with temperature
change?
1% ? 10% ? .01% ? How much is a "good deal"? Please be clear on the
coefficient of thermal expansion for liquid gasoline versus gasoline vapors.


This must be a discussion for those suffering from OCD.

In the last 16 years, I haven't paid the slightest bit of attention to
this sort of nonsense during my outboard boats' operating seasons, and I
haven't have one single problem in any way attributable to water in the
fuel. None. Zip. With my current outboard boat, I doubt if I've filled
the tank (170 gallons) more than twice. I usually fill to no more than
half a tank.

fuel stabilizer
 

This subject was debated at length recently in another newsgroup. I did a
little Internet research and found that virtually every small engine
manufacturer or manufacturer of a product that uses small gasoline engines
specifically recommended the use of a fuel stabilizer to be added to fresh
gasoline and run before long term storage and non-use (more than a month).

I get gummed up jets even using the Stabil and/or Sea Foam products. They
seem to work for a few weeks, and then I have to strip and clean the carbs
again. I suspect the problem is in the gasohol product, but I can't prove
it.


The manufacturers included Onan, Kohler, Briggs & Stratton, Honda, Kawasaki
and even Harley Davidson. Some specifically mentioned Stab-il ... some
simply mentioned "a fuel stabilizer" and, as usual, HD even sells their own
repackaged and overpriced brand.

Based on that, plus the fact that I've been using it for years and have
never had fuel problems after storage, I'll continue using it. It's cheap
insurance.

Works for you, not for me.



Eisboch

fuel stabilizer
 

Are people going to be satisfied running all the gas out of their outboards,
generators, lawn mowers, etc. every time they use them? It may be a solution,
but a lousy one.

Sherwin D.

jamesgangnc wrote:

Fuel stabilizer did not help my generator. After sitting it would miss
and surge until I disassembled the carb and cleaned the main jet with a
wire drill. It would run fine on the old gas with stabilizer after
cleaning the jet. Even if the gas was a year old. Once I started
running the gas out of the carb I stopped having problems. I have not
had to clean the carb or jets for several years now.

Eisboch wrote:
"jamesgangnc" wrote in message
oups.com...

FWIW from my own personal experiences it is less about 2 stroke verses
4 stroke as it is about the design of the carburator(s). I find that
carbs that do not use a float bowl tolerate not running for extended
periods a lot better. Like my chain saw and weed wacker. Conversly I
find that carbs with a float bowl, particularly those that have the jet
orifices in or near the bottom of the float bowl, get gummed up when
the gas in the float bowl evaporates. Like my 4kw generator. I don't
find that stabilizer stops the evaporation of the gas in the float
bowl. I can't say one way or another if the stabilizer does anything
to reduce the deposits left when the gas does evaporate. It seems
unlikely. I can see how stabilizer could keep the extraneous solids in
suspension but not how it could make them evaporate with the gas. It
also seems worse on smaller engines presumably because they have
smaller jets in their carbs. What works best for me on those carbs is
to either run the gas out of the carb when I finish using it or drain
the float bowl.



This subject was debated at length recently in another newsgroup. I did a
little Internet research and found that virtually every small engine
manufacturer or manufacturer of a product that uses small gasoline engines
specifically recommended the use of a fuel stabilizer to be added to fresh
gasoline and run before long term storage and non-use (more than a month).
The manufacturers included Onan, Kohler, Briggs & Stratton, Honda, Kawasaki
and even Harley Davidson. Some specifically mentioned Stab-il ... some
simply mentioned "a fuel stabilizer" and, as usual, HD even sells their own
repackaged and overpriced brand.

Based on that, plus the fact that I've been using it for years and have
never had fuel problems after storage, I'll continue using it. It's cheap
insurance.

Eisboch

fuel stabilizer
 

Agreed. It's easy on my generator, I just turn off the gas and leave
it running. Fortunately I use the mower enough that I've never had a
problem. And the rest of my small engines use that float bowl-less
style carb. They don't have a problem either.

sherwindu wrote:
Are people going to be satisfied running all the gas out of their outboards,
generators, lawn mowers, etc. every time they use them? It may be a solution,
but a lousy one.

Sherwin D.

jamesgangnc wrote:

Fuel stabilizer did not help my generator. After sitting it would miss
and surge until I disassembled the carb and cleaned the main jet with a
wire drill. It would run fine on the old gas with stabilizer after
cleaning the jet. Even if the gas was a year old. Once I started
running the gas out of the carb I stopped having problems. I have not
had to clean the carb or jets for several years now.

Eisboch wrote:
"jamesgangnc" wrote in message
oups.com...

FWIW from my own personal experiences it is less about 2 stroke verses
4 stroke as it is about the design of the carburator(s). I find that
carbs that do not use a float bowl tolerate not running for extended
periods a lot better. Like my chain saw and weed wacker. Conversly I
find that carbs with a float bowl, particularly those that have the jet
orifices in or near the bottom of the float bowl, get gummed up when
the gas in the float bowl evaporates. Like my 4kw generator. I don't
find that stabilizer stops the evaporation of the gas in the float
bowl. I can't say one way or another if the stabilizer does anything
to reduce the deposits left when the gas does evaporate. It seems
unlikely. I can see how stabilizer could keep the extraneous solids in
suspension but not how it could make them evaporate with the gas. It
also seems worse on smaller engines presumably because they have
smaller jets in their carbs. What works best for me on those carbs is
to either run the gas out of the carb when I finish using it or drain
the float bowl.



This subject was debated at length recently in another newsgroup. I did a
little Internet research and found that virtually every small engine
manufacturer or manufacturer of a product that uses small gasoline engines
specifically recommended the use of a fuel stabilizer to be added to fresh
gasoline and run before long term storage and non-use (more than a month).
The manufacturers included Onan, Kohler, Briggs & Stratton, Honda, Kawasaki
and even Harley Davidson. Some specifically mentioned Stab-il ... some
simply mentioned "a fuel stabilizer" and, as usual, HD even sells their own
repackaged and overpriced brand.

Based on that, plus the fact that I've been using it for years and have
never had fuel problems after storage, I'll continue using it. It's cheap
insurance.

Eisboch

fuel stabilizer
 

Can it be that the problem relates to small engines with narrow jets
only?

In article ,
Charlie Morgan wrote:

I don't think anyone is suggesting that except for when it will be a
LONG time between uses. Meanwhile, I don't think it's necessary at
all, but it seems to make some people feel better.

CWM

fuel stabilizer
 

I'd say that is a factor. I know the gas is evaporating out of the
holley over the winter on my boat but so far it has not been an issue.
It makes sense that the small engines have very small jet sizes and it
would not take much deposit to seriously affect them. Bigger engines
may not notice it and with resumed use the deposits might eventually
disolve again so they never accumulate. The smaller engines run so
crappy that you have to fix them.

Huss Mohrens wrote:
Can it be that the problem relates to small engines with narrow jets
only?

In article ,
Charlie Morgan wrote:

I don't think anyone is suggesting that except for when it will be a
LONG time between uses. Meanwhile, I don't think it's necessary at
all, but it seems to make some people feel better.

CWM

fuel stabilizer
 

I don't know what you consider a LONG time, but I have had to clean my carb jets
three times this season over a period of 3 months. I use my boat about once a
week, but sometimes there are gaps of about two weeks.

Sherwin D.

Charlie Morgan wrote:

On Wed, 30 Aug 2006 23:44:23 -0500, sherwindu
wrote:

Are people going to be satisfied running all the gas out of their outboards,
generators, lawn mowers, etc. every time they use them? It may be a solution,
but a lousy one.

Sherwin D.

I don't think anyone is suggesting that except for when it will be a
LONG time between uses. Meanwhile, I don't think it's necessary at
all, but it seems to make some people feel better.

CWM

fuel stabilizer
 

I think the problem is exacerbated by the fine jets on the small 4 stroke
engines. I
believe the larger 4 strokes have larger jets that allow this gunk to pass
through.

Sherwin D.

Huss Mohrens wrote:

Can it be that the problem relates to small engines with narrow jets
only?

In article ,
Charlie Morgan wrote:

I don't think anyone is suggesting that except for when it will be a
LONG time between uses. Meanwhile, I don't think it's necessary at
all, but it seems to make some people feel better.

CWM

fuel stabilizer
 

"sherwindu" wrote in message
...
I think the problem is exacerbated by the fine jets on the small 4 stroke
engines. I
believe the larger 4 strokes have larger jets that allow this gunk to pass
through.

Sherwin D.

Huss Mohrens wrote:

Can it be that the problem relates to small engines with narrow jets
only?

In article ,
Charlie Morgan wrote:

I don't think anyone is suggesting that except for when it will be a
LONG time between uses. Meanwhile, I don't think it's necessary at
all, but it seems to make some people feel better.

CWM


I have been running my T-8 Yamaha kicker since 2002, and have a big spin on
filter inline and have never had a problem.

fuel stabilizer
 

If you tilt it up or try to "drain" the carbs.... you are adding to the
problem...

-W

"sherwindu" wrote in message
...
I think the problem is exacerbated by the fine jets on the small 4 stroke
engines. I
believe the larger 4 strokes have larger jets that allow this gunk to pass
through.

Sherwin D.

Huss Mohrens wrote:

Can it be that the problem relates to small engines with narrow jets
only?

In article ,
Charlie Morgan wrote:

I don't think anyone is suggesting that except for when it will be a
LONG time between uses. Meanwhile, I don't think it's necessary at
all, but it seems to make some people feel better.

CWM

fuel stabilizer
 

Charlie Morgan wrote:

On Wed, 30 Aug 2006 23:42:14 -0500, sherwindu
wrote:

I get gummed up jets even using the Stabil and/or Sea Foam products. They
seem to work for a few weeks, and then I have to strip and clean the carbs
again. I suspect the problem is in the gasohol product, but I can't prove
it.


I am beginning to STRONGLY suspect that you either need to change
where you purchase your fuel,

I buy it from different places.

or completely clean your tank of built
up problems from the past.

Draining the tank did not reveal any suspicious amounts of dirt. There was
some black oily stuff I removed from the float chamber though.

...You probably need to do both.

CWM

I cleaned my tank and drained the fuel lines and carb, but the jets were
already
plugged up. Only cleaning the jets fixed the problem, for now. I received an
interesting
reply on another Usenet boating forum, rec.boats.cruising from 'Larry', who
gave
a strong arguement that shellac formed after the fuel evaporates in the carb is
the
big culprit, and that Stabil type products don't help. His suggestion was to
run the
carbs dry after every usage. I'm going to try that, although as I mentioned
before,
it's an additional job to do every time the engine is used.

Sherwin D.