Volvo Penta 240A (Ford 351) with 280 Outdrive Cooling issue
 

First time poster.

1977 Fiberform 670 hrs on 351 and VP 280 outdrive. Cannot get water to
the engine from the muffs or from a submerged outdrive leg. If hose is
placed in bucket from intake on Fresh water pump water is circulated
throughout engine fine. Back flushing through outdrive sprays water
from between the intake neck and the Cooling Tube that goes from the
upper to the lower outdrive.

I've looked in my book and can see no O-ring or anything that is
suppoed to go between the tub and the neck. Just a paper gasket and
some permatex under the neck. Is this really metal on metal contact
only? Is it supposed to suck air from here or am I missing something
else?

I have read quite a few posts dealing with cooling on this group and a
few seem to show signs of my problem but it seems that testing by
bypassing the outdrive is usually whats recomended to determine issues.
as stated earlier I have already tested in this manner and the results
are that it works fine. The upper cooling tube junction on the
outdrive seems to be the issue.

If I put the boat in the water will this be an issue as this "Leak"
will be below the waterline?

Thanks in advance for your advice.

Shawn

Volvo Penta 240A (Ford 351) with 280 Outdrive Cooling issue
 

Sorry, This is raw water not fresh.

Volvo Penta 240A (Ford 351) with 280 Outdrive Cooling issue
 

Bump

Volvo Penta 240A (Ford 351) with 280 Outdrive Cooling issue
 

Not ignoring you. Just don't know anything about volvoes :-)
Shawn wrote:
Bump

Volvo Penta 240A (Ford 351) with 280 Outdrive Cooling issue
 

Shawn wrote:
First time poster.

1977 Fiberform 670 hrs on 351 and VP 280 outdrive. Cannot get water to
the engine from the muffs or from a submerged outdrive leg. If hose is
placed in bucket from intake on Fresh water pump water is circulated
throughout engine fine. Back flushing through outdrive sprays water
from between the intake neck and the Cooling Tube that goes from the
upper to the lower outdrive.

I've looked in my book and can see no O-ring or anything that is
suppoed to go between the tub and the neck. Just a paper gasket and
some permatex under the neck. Is this really metal on metal contact
only? Is it supposed to suck air from here or am I missing something
else?

I have read quite a few posts dealing with cooling on this group and a
few seem to show signs of my problem but it seems that testing by
bypassing the outdrive is usually whats recomended to determine issues.
as stated earlier I have already tested in this manner and the results
are that it works fine. The upper cooling tube junction on the
outdrive seems to be the issue.

If I put the boat in the water will this be an issue as this "Leak"
will be below the waterline?

Thanks in advance for your advice.

Shawn

There was a short piece of rubber hose that connected the two parts of
the out drive on my old 280. This allows the out drive to raise and lower.

The boat worked perfectly until it started to plane, then the engine
would start to overheat. 1200 rpm, engine ran fine, 1300, the
temperature gauge started to rise.

A hose clamp had come loose allowing the engine to suck air when it
wasn't immersed in water. I had to blow a head gasket before diagnosing
it, as all the mechanics told me the problem was with the temperature gauge.

Volvo Penta 240A (Ford 351) with 280 Outdrive Cooling issue
 

Jim,

Thanks for the response. I checked the rubber and all is good. No
leaks. The issue seems to be coming from the joint that the Rubber
house connects to and then drops down to the lower outdrive via a metal
tube. Where the joint and the tube meet is where the leak is coming
from.

Thanks again

Shawn