74' merc 150 no fire. help?
 

this motor ran last year but i just got it out and it wont start.

it looks like i got no spark. i have checked for power at the switch
box and it seems to be ok.

i see three parts in this ignition system. are there any tests i can do
to narrow it down?

thanks
john

74' merc 150 no fire. help?
 

wrote in message
s.com...
i see three parts in this ignition system. are there any tests i can do
to narrow it down?

thanks
john


MERCURY BATTERY-POWERED CDI SWITCHBOX TEST
FOR DISTRIBUTOR MODELS - EDITED BY CLAMS CANINO

This test is for the 332-2986 switchbox used from 1967-1978 on all the
inlines.

This test assumes your coil is good (most all are).

DISCONNECT BATTERY

1. Turn off ignion
2. Disconnect all 3 wires on the distributor side of the switchbox.
3. Remove the HV lead from the coil to the center cap (remember it unscrews
from cap)
4. Reconnect that HV center lead to the COIL side only.
5. Position that HV lead about about 3/8" from ground (block, shrouds etc)
and find a way to hold it there.
6. Jumper the brown and white terminals on the dist. side of the switchbox
together.

RECONNECT BATTERRY

7. Check that you have +12 V at red terminal.
8. Turn on ignition and verify +12V at white terminal (on red terminal side)
9. Touch the black terminal to ground - unit should cause spark each time
you touch ground.

If this passes and it still won't fire at all, suspect the trigger
(distributor).



To test replacement trigger if/when switchbox passes test: Remove jumper
wire and hook up the 3 wires from the new distributor to the switchbox, turn
on key and manually spin the distributor, spark should jump from coil wire
just like in the switchbox test.


POST BACK HERE IF YOU NEED A USED SWITCHBOX OR DISTRIBUTOR.

-Wayne

74' merc 150 no fire. help?
 

thanks for the info!!!!

i will test it and report back.

john


Clams Canino wrote:
wrote in message
s.com...
i see three parts in this ignition system. are there any tests i can do
to narrow it down?

thanks
john


MERCURY BATTERY-POWERED CDI SWITCHBOX TEST
FOR DISTRIBUTOR MODELS - EDITED BY CLAMS CANINO

This test is for the 332-2986 switchbox used from 1967-1978 on all the
inlines.

This test assumes your coil is good (most all are).

DISCONNECT BATTERY

1. Turn off ignion
2. Disconnect all 3 wires on the distributor side of the switchbox.
3. Remove the HV lead from the coil to the center cap (remember it unscrews
from cap)
4. Reconnect that HV center lead to the COIL side only.
5. Position that HV lead about about 3/8" from ground (block, shrouds etc)
and find a way to hold it there.
6. Jumper the brown and white terminals on the dist. side of the switchbox
together.

RECONNECT BATTERRY

7. Check that you have +12 V at red terminal.
8. Turn on ignition and verify +12V at white terminal (on red terminal side)
9. Touch the black terminal to ground - unit should cause spark each time
you touch ground.

If this passes and it still won't fire at all, suspect the trigger
(distributor).



To test replacement trigger if/when switchbox passes test: Remove jumper
wire and hook up the 3 wires from the new distributor to the switchbox, turn
on key and manually spin the distributor, spark should jump from coil wire
just like in the switchbox test.


POST BACK HERE IF YOU NEED A USED SWITCHBOX OR DISTRIBUTOR.

-Wayne

74' merc 150 no fire. help?
 

OK.. report back??

-W

wrote in message
oups.com...
thanks for the info!!!!

i will test it and report back.

john


Clams Canino wrote:
wrote in message
s.com...
i see three parts in this ignition system. are there any tests i can
do
to narrow it down?

thanks
john


MERCURY BATTERY-POWERED CDI SWITCHBOX TEST
FOR DISTRIBUTOR MODELS - EDITED BY CLAMS CANINO

This test is for the 332-2986 switchbox used from 1967-1978 on all the
inlines.

This test assumes your coil is good (most all are).

DISCONNECT BATTERY

1. Turn off ignion
2. Disconnect all 3 wires on the distributor side of the switchbox.
3. Remove the HV lead from the coil to the center cap (remember it
unscrews
from cap)
4. Reconnect that HV center lead to the COIL side only.
5. Position that HV lead about about 3/8" from ground (block, shrouds
etc)
and find a way to hold it there.
6. Jumper the brown and white terminals on the dist. side of the
switchbox
together.

RECONNECT BATTERRY

7. Check that you have +12 V at red terminal.
8. Turn on ignition and verify +12V at white terminal (on red terminal
side)
9. Touch the black terminal to ground - unit should cause spark each
time
you touch ground.

If this passes and it still won't fire at all, suspect the trigger
(distributor).



To test replacement trigger if/when switchbox passes test: Remove
jumper
wire and hook up the 3 wires from the new distributor to the switchbox,
turn
on key and manually spin the distributor, spark should jump from coil
wire
just like in the switchbox test.


POST BACK HERE IF YOU NEED A USED SWITCHBOX OR DISTRIBUTOR.

-Wayne

74' merc 150 no fire. help?
 

i spent a little time with it last night.

i unhooked the coil wire and it was extreemly croaded at the coil end.
so i tryed cleaning it and the in side of the coil too.

i thought for sure i found the problem so i tryed to start it after
cleaning.
still nothing.

i am going to try your test this weekend. i am guessing this coil is
junk.
any chance you got ohm specs for it?

thanks
JOHN


Clams Canino wrote:
OK.. report back??

-W

wrote in message
oups.com...
thanks for the info!!!!

i will test it and report back.

john


Clams Canino wrote:
wrote in message
s.com...
i see three parts in this ignition system. are there any tests i can
do
to narrow it down?

thanks
john


MERCURY BATTERY-POWERED CDI SWITCHBOX TEST
FOR DISTRIBUTOR MODELS - EDITED BY CLAMS CANINO

This test is for the 332-2986 switchbox used from 1967-1978 on all the
inlines.

This test assumes your coil is good (most all are).

DISCONNECT BATTERY

1. Turn off ignion
2. Disconnect all 3 wires on the distributor side of the switchbox.
3. Remove the HV lead from the coil to the center cap (remember it
unscrews
from cap)
4. Reconnect that HV center lead to the COIL side only.
5. Position that HV lead about about 3/8" from ground (block, shrouds
etc)
and find a way to hold it there.
6. Jumper the brown and white terminals on the dist. side of the
switchbox
together.

RECONNECT BATTERRY

7. Check that you have +12 V at red terminal.
8. Turn on ignition and verify +12V at white terminal (on red terminal
side)
9. Touch the black terminal to ground - unit should cause spark each
time
you touch ground.

If this passes and it still won't fire at all, suspect the trigger
(distributor).



To test replacement trigger if/when switchbox passes test: Remove
jumper
wire and hook up the 3 wires from the new distributor to the switchbox,
turn
on key and manually spin the distributor, spark should jump from coil
wire
just like in the switchbox test.


POST BACK HERE IF YOU NEED A USED SWITCHBOX OR DISTRIBUTOR.

-Wayne

74' merc 150 no fire. help?
 

I don't have the ohm specs off hand. Assume that a dead open circuit means
bad coil though. :)

The coil on those is the LAST item to suspect. The switchbox or trigger is
most likely. I havn't see a bad coil on one of those in over 5 years... and
that's saying something.

-W (is yours the big orange coil or the smaller one that mounts to the
block?)


wrote in message
oups.com...
i spent a little time with it last night.

i unhooked the coil wire and it was extreemly croaded at the coil end.
so i tryed cleaning it and the in side of the coil too.

i thought for sure i found the problem so i tryed to start it after
cleaning.
still nothing.

i am going to try your test this weekend. i am guessing this coil is
junk.
any chance you got ohm specs for it?

thanks
JOHN


Clams Canino wrote:
OK.. report back??

-W

wrote in message
oups.com...
thanks for the info!!!!

i will test it and report back.

john


Clams Canino wrote:
wrote in message
s.com...
i see three parts in this ignition system. are there any tests i
can
do
to narrow it down?

thanks
john


MERCURY BATTERY-POWERED CDI SWITCHBOX TEST
FOR DISTRIBUTOR MODELS - EDITED BY CLAMS CANINO

This test is for the 332-2986 switchbox used from 1967-1978 on all
the
inlines.

This test assumes your coil is good (most all are).

DISCONNECT BATTERY

1. Turn off ignion
2. Disconnect all 3 wires on the distributor side of the switchbox.
3. Remove the HV lead from the coil to the center cap (remember it
unscrews
from cap)
4. Reconnect that HV center lead to the COIL side only.
5. Position that HV lead about about 3/8" from ground (block,
shrouds
etc)
and find a way to hold it there.
6. Jumper the brown and white terminals on the dist. side of the
switchbox
together.

RECONNECT BATTERRY

7. Check that you have +12 V at red terminal.
8. Turn on ignition and verify +12V at white terminal (on red
terminal
side)
9. Touch the black terminal to ground - unit should cause spark each
time
you touch ground.

If this passes and it still won't fire at all, suspect the trigger
(distributor).



To test replacement trigger if/when switchbox passes test: Remove
jumper
wire and hook up the 3 wires from the new distributor to the
switchbox,
turn
on key and manually spin the distributor, spark should jump from
coil
wire
just like in the switchbox test.


POST BACK HERE IF YOU NEED A USED SWITCHBOX OR DISTRIBUTOR.

-Wayne

74' merc 150 no fire. help?
 

sure but cuz of all the crud i got out of the coil i fugured it is a
likely cause.

also i did check it last night and got what seemed to be a vary low
reading on my dvom.

thanks
john


Clams Canino wrote:
I don't have the ohm specs off hand. Assume that a dead open circuit means
bad coil though. :)

The coil on those is the LAST item to suspect. The switchbox or trigger is
most likely. I havn't see a bad coil on one of those in over 5 years... and
that's saying something.

-W (is yours the big orange coil or the smaller one that mounts to the
block?)


wrote in message
oups.com...
i spent a little time with it last night.

i unhooked the coil wire and it was extreemly croaded at the coil end.
so i tryed cleaning it and the in side of the coil too.

i thought for sure i found the problem so i tryed to start it after
cleaning.
still nothing.

i am going to try your test this weekend. i am guessing this coil is
junk.
any chance you got ohm specs for it?

thanks
JOHN


Clams Canino wrote:
OK.. report back??

-W

wrote in message
oups.com...
thanks for the info!!!!

i will test it and report back.

john


Clams Canino wrote:
wrote in message
s.com...
i see three parts in this ignition system. are there any tests i
can
do
to narrow it down?

thanks
john


MERCURY BATTERY-POWERED CDI SWITCHBOX TEST
FOR DISTRIBUTOR MODELS - EDITED BY CLAMS CANINO

This test is for the 332-2986 switchbox used from 1967-1978 on all
the
inlines.

This test assumes your coil is good (most all are).

DISCONNECT BATTERY

1. Turn off ignion
2. Disconnect all 3 wires on the distributor side of the switchbox.
3. Remove the HV lead from the coil to the center cap (remember it
unscrews
from cap)
4. Reconnect that HV center lead to the COIL side only.
5. Position that HV lead about about 3/8" from ground (block,
shrouds
etc)
and find a way to hold it there.
6. Jumper the brown and white terminals on the dist. side of the
switchbox
together.

RECONNECT BATTERRY

7. Check that you have +12 V at red terminal.
8. Turn on ignition and verify +12V at white terminal (on red
terminal
side)
9. Touch the black terminal to ground - unit should cause spark each
time
you touch ground.

If this passes and it still won't fire at all, suspect the trigger
(distributor).



To test replacement trigger if/when switchbox passes test: Remove
jumper
wire and hook up the 3 wires from the new distributor to the
switchbox,
turn
on key and manually spin the distributor, spark should jump from
coil
wire
just like in the switchbox test.


POST BACK HERE IF YOU NEED A USED SWITCHBOX OR DISTRIBUTOR.

-Wayne

74' merc 150 no fire. help?
 

Question remains on the floor... Big Orange Coil or smaller black one?

-W

wrote in message
ps.com...
sure but cuz of all the crud i got out of the coil i fugured it is a
likely cause.

also i did check it last night and got what seemed to be a vary low
reading on my dvom.

thanks
john


Clams Canino wrote:
I don't have the ohm specs off hand. Assume that a dead open circuit
means
bad coil though. :)

The coil on those is the LAST item to suspect. The switchbox or trigger
is
most likely. I havn't see a bad coil on one of those in over 5 years...
and
that's saying something.

-W (is yours the big orange coil or the smaller one that mounts to the
block?)


wrote in message
oups.com...
i spent a little time with it last night.

i unhooked the coil wire and it was extreemly croaded at the coil end.
so i tryed cleaning it and the in side of the coil too.

i thought for sure i found the problem so i tryed to start it after
cleaning.
still nothing.

i am going to try your test this weekend. i am guessing this coil is
junk.
any chance you got ohm specs for it?

thanks
JOHN


Clams Canino wrote:
OK.. report back??

-W

wrote in message
oups.com...
thanks for the info!!!!

i will test it and report back.

john


Clams Canino wrote:
wrote in message
s.com...
i see three parts in this ignition system. are there any tests
i
can
do
to narrow it down?

thanks
john


MERCURY BATTERY-POWERED CDI SWITCHBOX TEST
FOR DISTRIBUTOR MODELS - EDITED BY CLAMS CANINO

This test is for the 332-2986 switchbox used from 1967-1978 on
all
the
inlines.

This test assumes your coil is good (most all are).

DISCONNECT BATTERY

1. Turn off ignion
2. Disconnect all 3 wires on the distributor side of the
switchbox.
3. Remove the HV lead from the coil to the center cap (remember
it
unscrews
from cap)
4. Reconnect that HV center lead to the COIL side only.
5. Position that HV lead about about 3/8" from ground (block,
shrouds
etc)
and find a way to hold it there.
6. Jumper the brown and white terminals on the dist. side of the
switchbox
together.

RECONNECT BATTERRY

7. Check that you have +12 V at red terminal.
8. Turn on ignition and verify +12V at white terminal (on red
terminal
side)
9. Touch the black terminal to ground - unit should cause spark
each
time
you touch ground.

If this passes and it still won't fire at all, suspect the
trigger
(distributor).



To test replacement trigger if/when switchbox passes test:
Remove
jumper
wire and hook up the 3 wires from the new distributor to the
switchbox,
turn
on key and manually spin the distributor, spark should jump from
coil
wire
just like in the switchbox test.


POST BACK HERE IF YOU NEED A USED SWITCHBOX OR DISTRIBUTOR.

-Wayne

74' merc 150 no fire. help?
 

orange

JOHN

Clams Canino wrote:
Question remains on the floor... Big Orange Coil or smaller black one?

-W

wrote in message
ps.com...
sure but cuz of all the crud i got out of the coil i fugured it is a
likely cause.

also i did check it last night and got what seemed to be a vary low
reading on my dvom.

thanks
john


Clams Canino wrote:
I don't have the ohm specs off hand. Assume that a dead open circuit
means
bad coil though. :)

The coil on those is the LAST item to suspect. The switchbox or trigger
is
most likely. I havn't see a bad coil on one of those in over 5 years...
and
that's saying something.

-W (is yours the big orange coil or the smaller one that mounts to the
block?)


wrote in message
oups.com...
i spent a little time with it last night.

i unhooked the coil wire and it was extreemly croaded at the coil end.
so i tryed cleaning it and the in side of the coil too.

i thought for sure i found the problem so i tryed to start it after
cleaning.
still nothing.

i am going to try your test this weekend. i am guessing this coil is
junk.
any chance you got ohm specs for it?

thanks
JOHN


Clams Canino wrote:
OK.. report back??

-W

wrote in message
oups.com...
thanks for the info!!!!

i will test it and report back.

john


Clams Canino wrote:
wrote in message
s.com...
i see three parts in this ignition system. are there any tests
i
can
do
to narrow it down?

thanks
john


MERCURY BATTERY-POWERED CDI SWITCHBOX TEST
FOR DISTRIBUTOR MODELS - EDITED BY CLAMS CANINO

This test is for the 332-2986 switchbox used from 1967-1978 on
all
the
inlines.

This test assumes your coil is good (most all are).

DISCONNECT BATTERY

1. Turn off ignion
2. Disconnect all 3 wires on the distributor side of the
switchbox.
3. Remove the HV lead from the coil to the center cap (remember
it
unscrews
from cap)
4. Reconnect that HV center lead to the COIL side only.
5. Position that HV lead about about 3/8" from ground (block,
shrouds
etc)
and find a way to hold it there.
6. Jumper the brown and white terminals on the dist. side of the
switchbox
together.

RECONNECT BATTERRY

7. Check that you have +12 V at red terminal.
8. Turn on ignition and verify +12V at white terminal (on red
terminal
side)
9. Touch the black terminal to ground - unit should cause spark
each
time
you touch ground.

If this passes and it still won't fire at all, suspect the
trigger
(distributor).



To test replacement trigger if/when switchbox passes test:
Remove
jumper
wire and hook up the 3 wires from the new distributor to the
switchbox,
turn
on key and manually spin the distributor, spark should jump from
coil
wire
just like in the switchbox test.


POST BACK HERE IF YOU NEED A USED SWITCHBOX OR DISTRIBUTOR.

-Wayne

74' merc 150 no fire. help?
 

I've never soon one of those fail **in my life** clean it and connections
well and proceed to switchbox / trigger tests.

-W (that orange coil was WAY overkill)

wrote in message
ups.com...
orange

JOHN

Clams Canino wrote:
Question remains on the floor... Big Orange Coil or smaller black one?

-W

wrote in message
ps.com...
sure but cuz of all the crud i got out of the coil i fugured it is a
likely cause.

also i did check it last night and got what seemed to be a vary low
reading on my dvom.

thanks
john


Clams Canino wrote:
I don't have the ohm specs off hand. Assume that a dead open circuit
means
bad coil though. :)

The coil on those is the LAST item to suspect. The switchbox or
trigger
is
most likely. I havn't see a bad coil on one of those in over 5
years...
and
that's saying something.

-W (is yours the big orange coil or the smaller one that mounts to
the
block?)


wrote in message
oups.com...
i spent a little time with it last night.

i unhooked the coil wire and it was extreemly croaded at the coil
end.
so i tryed cleaning it and the in side of the coil too.

i thought for sure i found the problem so i tryed to start it
after
cleaning.
still nothing.

i am going to try your test this weekend. i am guessing this coil
is
junk.
any chance you got ohm specs for it?

thanks
JOHN


Clams Canino wrote:
OK.. report back??

-W

wrote in message
oups.com...
thanks for the info!!!!

i will test it and report back.

john


Clams Canino wrote:
wrote in message
s.com...
i see three parts in this ignition system. are there any
tests
i
can
do
to narrow it down?

thanks
john


MERCURY BATTERY-POWERED CDI SWITCHBOX TEST
FOR DISTRIBUTOR MODELS - EDITED BY CLAMS CANINO

This test is for the 332-2986 switchbox used from 1967-1978
on
all
the
inlines.

This test assumes your coil is good (most all are).

DISCONNECT BATTERY

1. Turn off ignion
2. Disconnect all 3 wires on the distributor side of the
switchbox.
3. Remove the HV lead from the coil to the center cap
(remember
it
unscrews
from cap)
4. Reconnect that HV center lead to the COIL side only.
5. Position that HV lead about about 3/8" from ground
(block,
shrouds
etc)
and find a way to hold it there.
6. Jumper the brown and white terminals on the dist. side of
the
switchbox
together.

RECONNECT BATTERRY

7. Check that you have +12 V at red terminal.
8. Turn on ignition and verify +12V at white terminal (on
red
terminal
side)
9. Touch the black terminal to ground - unit should cause
spark
each
time
you touch ground.

If this passes and it still won't fire at all, suspect the
trigger
(distributor).



To test replacement trigger if/when switchbox passes test:
Remove
jumper
wire and hook up the 3 wires from the new distributor to the
switchbox,
turn
on key and manually spin the distributor, spark should jump
from
coil
wire
just like in the switchbox test.


POST BACK HERE IF YOU NEED A USED SWITCHBOX OR DISTRIBUTOR.

-Wayne