How to Attach a T-Top to a Boat Without the Access Under the Deck?
 

I would like to de-attach and re-attach the T-top of my boat. But
before I do this, I want to make sure that I will be able to re-attach
it. The problem is that I have very little access to the under-deck
area right under the legs of the T-top. There is only around 2" to 3"
space underneat the deck -- I can stick my hand into it, but I cannot
turn my hand to do any work. Therefore, I am looking for a way to
attach the T-top onto my deck from above the deck.

Any trick that people can offer? Thanks.

Jay Chan

How to Attach a T-Top to a Boat Without the Access Under the Deck?
 

I assume this is a Center console boat. Is there a backing plate
underneath the deck of just thick glass holding the T-Top. I saw
another boat where the owner had reversed the way he had it attached.
He put the head of the boat underneath the deck and help the T-Top with
a pair of nylocks

How to Attach a T-Top to a Boat Without the Access Under the Deck?
 

I would like to de-attach and re-attach the T-top of my boat. But
before I do this, I want to make sure that I will be able to re-attach
it. The problem is that I have very little access to the under-deck
area right under the legs of the T-top. There is only around 2" to 3"
space underneat the deck -- I can stick my hand into it, but I cannot
turn my hand to do any work. Therefore, I am looking for a way to
attach the T-top onto my deck from above the deck.

Ratcheting box end wrenches?

But one example:
http://www.armstrongtools.com/newproducts/geared.jsp

Either that or use an air ratchet with a shallow socket. There's probably
enough room to get one in there, possibly with the nut already in the
socket. Just keep a suitable magnet handy to fish the darn things out of
there if/WHEN they wiggle loose.

How to Attach a T-Top to a Boat Without the Access Under the Deck?
 

If you are using stainless hardware, probably a good idea, you can pretty
much forget about getting any help from a magnet.

Butch
"Gene Kearns" wrote in message
...
On 19 Apr 2006 11:11:00 -0700, "
wrote:

I would like to de-attach and re-attach the T-top of my boat. But
before I do this, I want to make sure that I will be able to re-attach
it. The problem is that I have very little access to the under-deck
area right under the legs of the T-top. There is only around 2" to 3"
space underneat the deck -- I can stick my hand into it, but I cannot
turn my hand to do any work. Therefore, I am looking for a way to
attach the T-top onto my deck from above the deck.

Any trick that people can offer? Thanks.

Jay Chan

It isn't clear whether you want to do this more than once.....

If you intend to do this on a regular basis, I'd consider having some
stainless plates made to go on the back side... you really do want
through-bolts. Drill and tap the plates to match the existing holes
and attach the plates with countersunk stainless screws.

Once installed access to the back side becomes unnecessary....

How to Attach a T-Top to a Boat Without the Access Under the Deck?
 

How to Attach a T-Top to a Boat Without the Access Under the Deck?
 

Bill Kearney wrote:
I would like to de-attach and re-attach the T-top of my boat. But
before I do this, I want to make sure that I will be able to re-attach
it. The problem is that I have very little access to the under-deck
area right under the legs of the T-top. There is only around 2" to 3"
space underneat the deck -- I can stick my hand into it, but I cannot
turn my hand to do any work. Therefore, I am looking for a way to
attach the T-top onto my deck from above the deck.

Ratcheting box end wrenches?

But one example:
http://www.armstrongtools.com/newproducts/geared.jsp

Either that or use an air ratchet with a shallow socket. There's probably
enough room to get one in there, possibly with the nut already in the
socket. Just keep a suitable magnet handy to fish the darn things out of
there if/WHEN they wiggle loose.

Thanks. The ratcheting wrench idea sounds good, and this gives me one
reason to buy more tools and this is always a good thing. And I
probably ask my wife to do this because she has small hands that
probably can fit into the small space underneat the deck.

Jay Chan

How to Attach a T-Top to a Boat Without the Access Under the Deck?
 

Gene Kearns wrote:
On 19 Apr 2006 11:11:00 -0700, "
wrote:

I would like to de-attach and re-attach the T-top of my boat. But
before I do this, I want to make sure that I will be able to re-attach
it. The problem is that I have very little access to the under-deck
area right under the legs of the T-top. There is only around 2" to 3"
space underneat the deck -- I can stick my hand into it, but I cannot
turn my hand to do any work. Therefore, I am looking for a way to
attach the T-top onto my deck from above the deck.

Any trick that people can offer? Thanks.

Jay Chan

It isn't clear whether you want to do this more than once.....

If you intend to do this on a regular basis, I'd consider having some
stainless plates made to go on the back side... you really do want
through-bolts. Drill and tap the plates to match the existing holes
and attach the plates with countersunk stainless screws.

Once installed access to the back side becomes unnecessary....

I only intend to re-attach it once.

Why do I need a stainless steel backing plate (instead of a regular
galvonized plate) if I need to re-attach the T-top frequently?

Jay Chan

How to Attach a T-Top to a Boat Without the Access Under theDeck?
 

How to Attach a T-Top to a Boat Without the Access Under the Deck?
 

I use a stainless backing plate on anything that is boat thru, even on
the cleats.

How to Attach a T-Top to a Boat Without the Access Under the Deck?
 

How to Attach a T-Top to a Boat Without the Access Under theDeck?
 

How to Attach a T-Top to a Boat Without the Access Under theDeck?
 

Gene Kearns wrote:
On Thu, 20 Apr 2006 15:56:31 GMT, Don White
wrote:


Here on the salt water we only use stainless steel or aluminum backing
plates. Why ask for trouble?


Good advice. Also, I *really* don't recommend aluminum and steel
combinations.... dissimilar metal corrosion will cause way more
trouble than you want to put up with.


Unless you have a way to isolate them from each other.
I've used 3M4200, liquid tape, gaskets made of plastic etc to make sure
the different metals don't touch each other. If you've ever drilled or
cut 1/8th thick ss plate, you know why I changed to 1/4" aluminum
backing plates.

How to Attach a T-Top to a Boat Without the Access Under the Deck?
 

"Don White" wrote in message
...
Gene Kearns wrote:
On Thu, 20 Apr 2006 15:56:31 GMT, Don White
wrote:


Here on the salt water we only use stainless steel or aluminum backing
plates. Why ask for trouble?


Good advice. Also, I *really* don't recommend aluminum and steel
combinations.... dissimilar metal corrosion will cause way more
trouble than you want to put up with.


Unless you have a way to isolate them from each other.
I've used 3M4200, liquid tape, gaskets made of plastic etc to make sure
the different metals don't touch each other. If you've ever drilled or
cut 1/8th thick ss plate, you know why I changed to 1/4" aluminum backing
plates.


And you want 5000 series aluminum. 5086 probably the best for most jobs
where salt water is contacted. 6061 is a tougher alloy. The 5000 is very
low copper content.

How to Attach a T-Top to a Boat Without the Access Under the Deck?
 

"Gene Kearns" wrote in message
...
On Fri, 21 Apr 2006 03:27:30 GMT, "Calif Bill"
wrote:




And you want 5000 series aluminum. 5086 probably the best for most jobs
where salt water is contacted. 6061 is a tougher alloy. The 5000 is very
low copper content.


More like no copper... the major alloying element in the 5000 series
being magnesium. 6061 is a tougher alloy because it can be heat
treated... the 5000 series cannot.

Heat treatables are 2000, 6000, and 7000 series.... Major alloy in
2000 is copper, 6000 is magnesium and silicon, and 7000 is zinc.

6000 series is acceptable in salt water service, but as you suggest,
5000 is probably a better choice if you don't need a hardened
alloy....

Problem with the 6000 is not very formable. You can not bend it to make a
radius bottom, without danger of it wanting to crack or crack in the future.
For flat plates, is good. All Aluminum will have some copper, just part of
the beast, but the alloys mentioned have very minute amounts.

How to Attach a T-Top to a Boat Without the Access Under the Deck?
 

I started using pieces of kitchen cutting boards as backing plates. The
ones that are about a 1/2 inch thick. They cut with regular saws and will
never rust.

"Don White" wrote in message
...
wrote:
wrote:

I use a stainless backing plate on anything that is boat thru, even on
the cleats.


I was asking why I definitely need a stainless steel backing plate if I
intend to re-attach the T-top frequently. I believe you have answered
my question. If I am going to re-attach the T-top very often, *the area
where the bolt gets through the desk will not likely to be very
water-tight, and will tend to rust the backing plate if the backing
plate is not stainless steel*. Thanks for giving me the hint to figure
this out.

Althought I am not planning to re-attach the T-top repeatedly, I will
still use a stainless steel backing plate -- This is kind of a "get it
done and don't want to re-visit" kind of task.

Jay Chan

Say what?
You don't want leaking around screws/plates. Use 3M 4200 bedding
compound.

How to Attach a T-Top to a Boat Without the Access Under the Deck?
 

I never thought about using HDPE as a backing plate, thats a great
idea. Thanks

How to Attach a T-Top to a Boat Without the Access Under the Deck?
 

I put my wake tower on with it. I've had two large tubes with as many as 6
teenagers on them attached to the top of the tower without a problem.

wrote in message
ups.com...
I never thought about using HDPE as a backing plate, thats a great
idea. Thanks