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Blazer Fan Dan September 8th 05 03:54 AM

Old evinrude question
 
Hello,

Newb' here. I have what I hope is an easy question(s).

About 5-6 years ago (I think) I "inherited" my uncle's old cedar
planked reinel boat. It had a 1965 75 horse Evinrude on it (the real
reason I wanted it). The problem was, it had sat in my uncle's yard for
18 years. He didn't do any up keep on the engine (or the boat). It got
so that that the boat's transom rotted out. The guy who owned it before
my uncle, had put in, I kid you not, 8 screws in each plank that
connected to the plywood transom. I think that sped up some of the
rotting. Subsequently, the motor stood in the mud (and halfways
connected to the transom).

Anyways, I junked the boat because I would've had to replace every
piece of wood in order to fix it (I fell through part of it). But I
kept the evinrude and the trailer. I built a structure to hold the
engine, and got to work on getting it running. I was told that old
johnson and evinrudes are bullet proof (and the fact my family has a
1962 75 horse Johnson, that's still working fine after 43 years says
something) and that I should be able to get it running relatively easy.

After I bought a new distributor cap, plug wires, and plugs I got it
running like a champ. One thing that was nice (at least, I thought so)
was the water spitting out of the exhaust (or whatever it comes out of)
at a better rate than another engine I have access to (the
aformentioned 62 Johnson).

It even sounded stronger/healthier than the 62.

My concern/question is this. In the garbage can I used to run it, the
water got a layer of an oily substance on it's surface, after each time
running. Now, I know that old boat engines (of this vintage) tend to
leak oil (etc), but I was wondering if there could be another reason
for that to have happened?

Like (and I realize there are important bits of information that I'm
leaving out, that could help better decipher the situation for you)
maybe I had flooded it, or I might have put too much oil in the gas. I
don't remember how much oil I put in (I'm fairly certain I put in the
correct ratio) or if I flooded it. And since I haven't used/started the
evinrude since, I really don't have any recent evidence to reference.

Was it maybe that the garbage can I used was small enough that what
oil/discharge would normally appear (and usually dissapated in a
lake/river) just accumulated in the garbage can and appeared to be more
than what was "normal"?

Also, is there a way to check the gaskets without taking it apart?

I hope this makes the least amount of sense.

Thanks

Dan


Chuck Tribolet September 8th 05 04:45 AM

There shouldn't be ANY sheen at all.

The lower unit can be pressure tested. Be sure to test it at both
low (like 1 PSI) and higher pressures per the service manual.
One of my whaler buddies had an engine that wouldn't leak at the
pressure speced by the manual, but would leak at low pressure,
and leak in the water.


"Blazer Fan Dan" wrote in message
oups.com...
Hello,

Newb' here. I have what I hope is an easy question(s).

About 5-6 years ago (I think) I "inherited" my uncle's old cedar
planked reinel boat. It had a 1965 75 horse Evinrude on it (the real
reason I wanted it). The problem was, it had sat in my uncle's yard for
18 years. He didn't do any up keep on the engine (or the boat). It got
so that that the boat's transom rotted out. The guy who owned it before
my uncle, had put in, I kid you not, 8 screws in each plank that
connected to the plywood transom. I think that sped up some of the
rotting. Subsequently, the motor stood in the mud (and halfways
connected to the transom).

Anyways, I junked the boat because I would've had to replace every
piece of wood in order to fix it (I fell through part of it). But I
kept the evinrude and the trailer. I built a structure to hold the
engine, and got to work on getting it running. I was told that old
johnson and evinrudes are bullet proof (and the fact my family has a
1962 75 horse Johnson, that's still working fine after 43 years says
something) and that I should be able to get it running relatively easy.

After I bought a new distributor cap, plug wires, and plugs I got it
running like a champ. One thing that was nice (at least, I thought so)
was the water spitting out of the exhaust (or whatever it comes out of)
at a better rate than another engine I have access to (the
aformentioned 62 Johnson).

It even sounded stronger/healthier than the 62.

My concern/question is this. In the garbage can I used to run it, the
water got a layer of an oily substance on it's surface, after each time
running. Now, I know that old boat engines (of this vintage) tend to
leak oil (etc), but I was wondering if there could be another reason
for that to have happened?

Like (and I realize there are important bits of information that I'm
leaving out, that could help better decipher the situation for you)
maybe I had flooded it, or I might have put too much oil in the gas. I
don't remember how much oil I put in (I'm fairly certain I put in the
correct ratio) or if I flooded it. And since I haven't used/started the
evinrude since, I really don't have any recent evidence to reference.

Was it maybe that the garbage can I used was small enough that what
oil/discharge would normally appear (and usually dissapated in a
lake/river) just accumulated in the garbage can and appeared to be more
than what was "normal"?

Also, is there a way to check the gaskets without taking it apart?

I hope this makes the least amount of sense.

Thanks

Dan




Blazer Fan Dan September 8th 05 06:23 AM


Chuck Tribolet wrote:
There shouldn't be ANY sheen at all.

The lower unit can be pressure tested. Be sure to test it at both
low (like 1 PSI) and higher pressures per the service manual.


ok, dumb question. how would I go about doing that?

if I do the test, what would the results imply is causing it?

One of my whaler buddies had an engine that wouldn't leak at the
pressure speced by the manual, but would leak at low pressure,
and leak in the water.


I know that our older engine leaks a bit, and there's always crap
coming out of it when we take it out of the water, but we're never that
low on lower unit lube (or other fluids).

If all else fails, I might just take it to someone someday to have them
look at it.


Billgran September 8th 05 06:57 AM


"Blazer Fan Dan" wrote in message
oups.com...
Hello,

In the garbage can I used to run it, the
water got a layer of an oily substance on it's surface, after each time
running. Now, I know that old boat engines (of this vintage) tend to
leak oil (etc), but I was wondering if there could be another reason
for that to have happened?


Those old motors were not environmentally friendly back then. They used
"stutter valves" to blow excess oil accumulated in the crankcase overboard.
At idle, they ran rich and much unburned fuel and oil were in the exhaust.
If the thermostat is not operating and allowing the cylinders to get up to
around 140 degrees, the fuel burn will be even more inefficient. The idle
needles are adjustable and if set too rich, will also allow more unburned
fuel into the water.

So when you run the motor in a small environment, like a garbage can or feed
trough, the fuel and oil make a film on the water very quickly. This is
assuming that you don't have a leaking gearcase also.

Bill Grannis
service manager



Blazer Fan Dan September 8th 05 07:03 AM


Billgran wrote:
Those old motors were not environmentally friendly back then. They used
"stutter valves" to blow excess oil accumulated in the crankcase overboard.
At idle, they ran rich and much unburned fuel and oil were in the exhaust.
If the thermostat is not operating and allowing the cylinders to get up to
around 140 degrees, the fuel burn will be even more inefficient. The idle
needles are adjustable and if set too rich, will also allow more unburned
fuel into the water.


yah, this I knew. I think there were several reasons why it was like
this. Poor mixture, and I didn't set the carb right probably (it did
smell rich when it was running, I forgot to mention that. Mostly
because I just remembered it now)


So when you run the motor in a small environment, like a garbage can or feed
trough, the fuel and oil make a film on the water very quickly. This is
assuming that you don't have a leaking gearcase also.

Bill Grannis
service manager


thanks for the info/help. Is there a simple way to tell if I have a
leaking gearcase?


Billgran September 8th 05 12:24 PM


"Blazer Fan Dan" wrote in message
oups.com...



thanks for the info/help. Is there a simple way to tell if I have a
leaking gearcase?


Pull the bottom drain plug and see if only oil comes out, or if it looks
like a milkshake or plain water is there.

Bill Grannis
service manager



Blazer Fan Dan September 8th 05 05:34 PM


Billgran wrote:
"Blazer Fan Dan" wrote in message
oups.com...



thanks for the info/help. Is there a simple way to tell if I have a
leaking gearcase?


Pull the bottom drain plug and see if only oil comes out, or if it looks
like a milkshake or plain water is there.

Bill Grannis
service manager


I know when I drained it originally, the color was darkish brown/black.
I haven't done it since. I do know what to look for, as the older
johnson has a greyish color to it.


IBNFSHN September 8th 05 05:42 PM

Check this out
http://www.iboats.com/cgi-bin/ubb/ul...;f=36;t=000033



"Blazer Fan Dan" wrote in message
oups.com...
Hello,

Newb' here. I have what I hope is an easy question(s).

About 5-6 years ago (I think) I "inherited" my uncle's old cedar
planked reinel boat. It had a 1965 75 horse Evinrude on it (the real
reason I wanted it). The problem was, it had sat in my uncle's yard for
18 years. He didn't do any up keep on the engine (or the boat). It got
so that that the boat's transom rotted out. The guy who owned it before
my uncle, had put in, I kid you not, 8 screws in each plank that
connected to the plywood transom. I think that sped up some of the
rotting. Subsequently, the motor stood in the mud (and halfways
connected to the transom).

Anyways, I junked the boat because I would've had to replace every
piece of wood in order to fix it (I fell through part of it). But I
kept the evinrude and the trailer. I built a structure to hold the
engine, and got to work on getting it running. I was told that old
johnson and evinrudes are bullet proof (and the fact my family has a
1962 75 horse Johnson, that's still working fine after 43 years says
something) and that I should be able to get it running relatively easy.

After I bought a new distributor cap, plug wires, and plugs I got it
running like a champ. One thing that was nice (at least, I thought so)
was the water spitting out of the exhaust (or whatever it comes out of)
at a better rate than another engine I have access to (the
aformentioned 62 Johnson).

It even sounded stronger/healthier than the 62.

My concern/question is this. In the garbage can I used to run it, the
water got a layer of an oily substance on it's surface, after each time
running. Now, I know that old boat engines (of this vintage) tend to
leak oil (etc), but I was wondering if there could be another reason
for that to have happened?

Like (and I realize there are important bits of information that I'm
leaving out, that could help better decipher the situation for you)
maybe I had flooded it, or I might have put too much oil in the gas. I
don't remember how much oil I put in (I'm fairly certain I put in the
correct ratio) or if I flooded it. And since I haven't used/started the
evinrude since, I really don't have any recent evidence to reference.

Was it maybe that the garbage can I used was small enough that what
oil/discharge would normally appear (and usually dissapated in a
lake/river) just accumulated in the garbage can and appeared to be more
than what was "normal"?

Also, is there a way to check the gaskets without taking it apart?

I hope this makes the least amount of sense.

Thanks

Dan




Blazer Fan Dan September 8th 05 06:20 PM


IBNFSHN wrote:
Check this out
http://www.iboats.com/cgi-bin/ubb/ul...;f=36;t=000033


thanks, I was hoping there was a FAQ type page out there.


Mike G September 9th 05 12:42 AM

[This followup was posted to rec.boats and a copy was sent to the cited
author.]

In article .com,
says...

Billgran wrote:
"Blazer Fan Dan" wrote in message
oups.com...



thanks for the info/help. Is there a simple way to tell if I have a
leaking gearcase?


Pull the bottom drain plug and see if only oil comes out, or if it looks
like a milkshake or plain water is there.

Bill Grannis
service manager


I know when I drained it originally, the color was darkish brown/black.
I haven't done it since. I do know what to look for, as the older
johnson has a greyish color to it.




While black isn't a great color for oil it's probably better then grey
which is usually the results of water and oil being whipped into an
emulsion and water isn't a desirable engine/gear case lubrication
additive

--
Mike G.
Heirloom Woods

www.heirloom-woods.net

[email protected] September 9th 05 10:37 AM

black is bad. it means worn out oil with carbon particles (abrasive)
in suspension.


Blazer Fan Dan September 9th 05 04:18 PM


wrote:
black is bad. it means worn out oil with carbon particles (abrasive)
in suspension.


does it matter that it stayed in the motor for 18+ years? (and I might
be remembering it a little incorrectly. I'm going to drain it later
today, to see how it looks)


Blazer Fan Dan September 10th 05 12:32 AM

I just now drained the lower unit (after it sat for an additional 3
years since I last ran it) and the lower unit oil is a amberish/brown
color. I do realize that the limited time that I ran it isn't really
enough to decipher it is has a problem, but I'd think it's an added
bonus if it's not in terrible shape.


Mike G September 10th 05 02:28 PM

[This followup was posted to rec.boats and a copy was sent to the cited
author.]

In article .com,
says...
I just now drained the lower unit (after it sat for an additional 3
years since I last ran it) and the lower unit oil is a amberish/brown
color. I do realize that the limited time that I ran it isn't really
enough to decipher it is has a problem, but I'd think it's an added
bonus if it's not in terrible shape.



Part of an engine oil's job, when lubricating the engine is to clean the
engine of carbon deposits and such. Over time this causes the oil to
darken.

In a lower unit, where there is no combustion taking place, it is far
more difficult if not impossible to determine the remaining lubricating
properties of an old oil by color since there isn't combustion residues
for the oil to pick up. Some darkening can be expected from normal
heating caused by the unit in normal operation.

It would be surprising if the color of oil in a lower unit were any
color other then what you describe or the grayish emulsion resulting
from a leaking seal allowing water into the unit.

The exception would be extreme over heating of the oil in the unit,
which can cause it to blacken. Of course, if that were the case, you'd
probably know about the problem long before draining the unit.

--
Mike G.
Heirloom Woods

www.heirloom-woods.net

Blazer Fan Dan September 10th 05 05:25 PM


Mike G wrote:

The exception would be extreme over heating of the oil in the unit,
which can cause it to blacken. Of course, if that were the case, you'd
probably know about the problem long before draining the unit.


how would I be able to tell, if I've only used it in a bucket?


--
Mike G.
Heirloom Woods

www.heirloom-woods.net



Mike G September 10th 05 08:25 PM

[This followup was posted to rec.boats and a copy was sent to the cited
author.]

In article .com,
says...
how would I be able to tell, if I've only used it in a bucket?

[quoted text muted]





?

--
Mike G.
Heirloom Woods

www.heirloom-woods.net

Blazer Fan Dan September 10th 05 08:54 PM


Mike G wrote:
[This followup was posted to rec.boats and a copy was sent to the cited
author.]

In article .com,
says...
how would I be able to tell, if I've only used it in a bucket?

?


Sorry, I meant that I've only used it in a garbage can so far.

--
Mike G.
Heirloom Woods

www.heirloom-woods.net



ed September 10th 05 09:27 PM

With burned oil you can often feel grit (carbon particles) between
your fingers when you rub them together. It also smell burned.

ed
marine engine digest


Mike G September 11th 05 01:02 AM

[This followup was posted to rec.boats and a copy was sent to the cited
author.]

In article .com,
says...
Sorry, I meant that I've only used it in a garbage can so far.
[quoted text muted]
Mike G.
Heirloom Woods

www.heirloom-woods.net






Assuming you mean whether or not water is getting into the lower unit if
you've only run the unit in a trash can of water. You're right, it isn't
exactly a definitive test but if the engine had only sat for a season
I'd say your probably ok but three years?

Gaskets dry out, sealers get brittle, metal shrinks and expands. If you
got no water in the lower unit in the trash can you may be alright but
that could prove to be an expensive may be.

Then of course there is the water pump impeller sitting down there, when
did that get changed last?

Personally, after having the boat sitting unused for that length of time
I'd take the safe route, bite the bullet, drop the lower unit and
replace the water pump and seal everything up anew. It's cheap
insurance.

Choice two, launch it and baby it around for ten or fifteen hours. If it
doesn't overheat on you and you show no signs of water in the lower end
oil put off the job till next season.

Sometimes, without proper preparation, it's tougher on an engine to sit
idle for years then it is for it to be run during the same period.

Best of luck what ever route you chose.

--
Mike G.
Heirloom Woods

www.heirloom-woods.net

Blazer Fan Dan September 11th 05 01:16 AM


Mike G wrote:

Assuming you mean whether or not water is getting into the lower unit if
you've only run the unit in a trash can of water. You're right, it isn't
exactly a definitive test but if the engine had only sat for a season
I'd say your probably ok but three years?


well, it sat before for 18 years (at least). The exhaust had far more
water in it than another engine of the same vintage that I have. It
was pretty much consistant spitting out a lot of water when it was
running.

I don't know if that the water pump was working fine, but it seemed to
be spitting out a lot of water.


Gaskets dry out, sealers get brittle, metal shrinks and expands. If you
got no water in the lower unit in the trash can you may be alright but
that could prove to be an expensive may be.


true, but since it's (as of right now) just an extra engine (might be a
"parts" engine for the 62). Someday I might rebuild it (if the parts
are still available at a reasonable price).

Then of course there is the water pump impeller sitting down there, when
did that get changed last?


no idea if it's ever been replaced. My uncle had it for a while, but I
doubt he changed it ever. I know we've never changed the one our older
boat (the 62).

Personally, after having the boat sitting unused for that length of time
I'd take the safe route, bite the bullet, drop the lower unit and
replace the water pump and seal everything up anew. It's cheap
insurance.


I might do that someday, and if it's easier than I think, I'd probably
do it with the other one too.

Choice two, launch it and baby it around for ten or fifteen hours. If it
doesn't overheat on you and you show no signs of water in the lower end
oil put off the job till next season.

Sometimes, without proper preparation, it's tougher on an engine to sit
idle for years then it is for it to be run during the same period.

Best of luck what ever route you chose.

--
Mike G.
Heirloom Woods

www.heirloom-woods.net




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