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#1
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Many thanks for the helpful input on my previous questions, so maybe I can
ask another one: what makes for a good paddling cadence? I've spent some time looking at the various videos showing the forward stroke at different web sites, and they seem to show a very fast cadence (about one complete stroke rotation every second or even faster), while the printed advice seems to emphasize torso rotation and gliding between the strokes. Since I tend to focus on technique, I've been concentrating on a solid front plant (as far forward as I can without bending the body) around the toes, a steady rotation while keeping the paddle close to the side of the boat, and extracting the paddle near the hip. Doing this gives me a cadence of about one every two seconds or so. On a measured course, I did 8 km (5 miles) in just over 1 hour (no wind or current), and on a recent day paddle, I did 32 km (20 miles) in about 4.5 hours (10-20 kph wind headwind, for first half of trip, same as tailwind for return). My boat is a Current Design Sqall (plastic, 16'6" long) and I'm using Aquabound "expedition" paddles. All my paddling to date has been on flat water, although I like to go out when the wind is up. So, is my cadence a reasonable one for a "regular" paddler? Should I be shortening the stroke to increase the cadence? |
#2
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On 22-Aug-2005, "PG" wrote:
So, is my cadence a reasonable one for a "regular" paddler? For a regular paddler, the correct cadence is the one you are comfortable with. Mike |
#3
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"Michael Daly" wrote:
On 22-Aug-2005, "PG" wrote: So, is my cadence a reasonable one for a "regular" paddler? For a regular paddler, the correct cadence is the one you are comfortable with. Mike Thank you Mike, for a very "zen" answer. ![]() Ok, forget the "regular" part. Much earlier in life (deep voice: many, many moons ago...) I used to run a lot, and while the enthusiasm was there, I wasn't keeping up with the older but better runners. One of them pointed out to me that my running style was rather short and choppy, and if I changed to a more flowing stride, rolling from heel to toe, it might help. It took several weeks before I felt comfortable with the new stride, but once I "got it", I covered more ground faster, with less fatigue and muscle strain. Not long after that, I got into long-distance touring by bike, and a similar evolution happened. A kind fellow traveller pointed out that my cadence was very slow due to use of too-high gears. After experimenting, I came up with a cadence of 70-90 rpm at a medium gear, which I could do for hours. Now that I have taken up kayak touring, I'm asking whether a slower cadence, with a longer power stroke is better than a shorter, higher-cadence power stroke, or whether a low-power but high-cadence stroke (as with a greenland paddle, I guess) will give me the ability to paddle all day, cover long distances, but be able to actually enjoy the area I'm paddling through from beginning to end. Paul -- Sent via Travel Newsgroups http://www.travelnewsgroups.com |
#4
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![]() On 24-Aug-2005, PG wrote: It took several weeks before I felt comfortable with the new stride, but once I "got it", I covered more ground faster, with less fatigue and muscle strain. I was thinking of a running analogy when I answered, and I know from many years ago when I ran that running at an "off pace" was more tiring than running at my own pace. Hence, paddle at your own pace. Now that I have taken up kayak touring, I'm asking whether a slower cadence, with a longer power stroke is better than a shorter, higher-cadence power stroke, or whether a low-power but high-cadence stroke (as with a greenland paddle, I guess) will give me the ability to paddle all day, cover long distances, but be able to actually enjoy the area I'm paddling through from beginning to end. Now this is a slightly different way of asking and the answer is - I don't honestly know. First of all - when using a Greenland style or a Euro, I find I use the same candence. Regardless of which paddle I use, I end up going the same speed as the others I paddle with. I'm not sure why so many folks consider the GP as requiring a faster cadence. I prefer a slower cadence so that I use a full rotation. Keeping that rotation with a fast cadence may be more efficient, but it would mean going faster, which would be exhausting. Increasing the tempo without increasing the speed would mean shortening the rotation. That wouldn't mean using more arm power, just less torso power per stroke. In terms of the degree to which the paddle blade draws or sweeps, a shorter stroke, with a catch not so far forward and an exit not so far aft would add less turning to the kayak and more of the work would result in forward motion. That along with the higher tempo would sound more efficient. (More significant with a low stroke than with a high stroke). However, it still remains that the most efficient is not necessarily the least energy use. It may be more efficient to go fast but that may require output that takes the fun out of kayaking. Similarly, if the most efficient is too slow, you won't get anywhere. I'm not aware of anyone really doing any meaningful tests of kayakers in non-racing (i.e. 500m - 1km sprints) conditions. There's been a lot of talk, but no data. Mike |
#5
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PG wrote:
Many thanks for the helpful input on my previous questions, so maybe I can ask another one: what makes for a good paddling cadence? I've spent some time looking at the various videos showing the forward stroke at different web sites, and they seem to show a very fast cadence (about one complete stroke rotation every second or even faster), while the printed advice seems to emphasize torso rotation and gliding between the strokes. Since I tend to focus on technique, I've been concentrating on a solid front plant (as far forward as I can without bending the body) around the toes, a steady rotation while keeping the paddle close to the side of the boat, and extracting the paddle near the hip. Doing this gives me a cadence of about one every two seconds or so. On a measured course, I did 8 km (5 miles) in just over 1 hour (no wind or current), and on a recent day paddle, I did 32 km (20 miles) in about 4.5 hours (10-20 kph wind headwind, for first half of trip, same as tailwind for return). My boat is a Current Design Sqall (plastic, 16'6" long) and I'm using Aquabound "expedition" paddles. All my paddling to date has been on flat water, although I like to go out when the wind is up. So, is my cadence a reasonable one for a "regular" paddler? Should I be shortening the stroke to increase the cadence? A hint: watch your kayak´s bow. As long as it stays steady, you are doing fine. If you paddle too fast for your ability or pull too long strokes, your bow starts going either up and down or moving sideways. Then it is time to slow down/shorten the pull. Jaakko o~ (____/____) / |
#6
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![]() ....stuff deleted Now that I have taken up kayak touring, I'm asking whether a slower cadence, with a longer power stroke is better than a shorter, higher-cadence power stroke, or whether a low-power but high-cadence stroke (as with a greenland paddle, I guess) will give me the ability to paddle all day, cover long distances, but be able to actually enjoy the area I'm paddling through from beginning to end. Paul Paul is onto the basic idea. Muscles fatigue for two reasons: - overuse from repetitions at a high rate of speed - overuse from few repetitions against force at low speeds You can replicate these by doing the following: - open and close your hand as fast as you can (no resistance) - climb a steep hill (10 % + grade) on a bicycle In both cases, you will fatigue within a couple of minutes. Depending upon conditioning, you may be able to continue to climb the hill, but it is unlikely that you can continue to open and close your hand after about 2 minutes. After climbing the hill, however, you will need more time to recover from the cycling than you will from the hand exercise, so there is a difference in the two types of fatigue (i.e. hard work against low resistance tends to produce soreness, while fast repetitions do not). Thus, there is an obvious mid-point of optimal performance before fatigue sets in. Surprisingly, however, the physical studies suggest that this optimal performance point results (for most) in a cadence that is too slow (not a universal truth - I know a few distance cyclists who prefer a cadence closer to 60, but most, like me, prefer a rate closer to 90). Cyclists and paddlers will (tend to) find a cadence that is a tad faster than that optimal performance point. The last study I read suggested that this is because at the optimal performance point, the muscles fatigue from both methods of overuse. Paddlers can adjust cadence by shortening the shaft and narrowing the paddle blade, with the short shaft having a more drastic effect (a fat blade is similar to a high gear in that it increases resistance, and weight, making each stroke a tad more difficult to do). In any case, the right cadence is fully dependant upon the choice/comfort of the paddler. Hope this helps (rather than muddies) understanding. Rick |
#7
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PG wrote:
On a measured course, I did 8 km (5 miles) in just over 1 hour (no wind or current), and on a recent day paddle, I did 32 km (20 miles) in about 4.5 hours (10-20 kph wind headwind, for first half of trip, same as tailwind for return). My boat is a Current Design Sqall (plastic, 16'6" long) and I'm using Aquabound "expedition" paddles. All my paddling to date has been on flat water, although I like to go out when the wind is up. So, is my cadence a reasonable one for a "regular" paddler? Should I be shortening the stroke to increase the cadence? Lots of advice. Based on the above it looks you are averaging about 4 knots an hour. I think you are doing pretty good for touring. All I can do is speak for myself. Some people think I paddle in slow motion but I can hold 4 knots hour after hour. I concentrated on making my paddle stroke very efficient. This means concentrating on technique while learning. The other thing I do is GPS all of my kayaking trips and then download the track into software where I can plot my speed. This way I can critique my trip and the speed I was making on the various legs. -- Bill Brought to you from beautiful Unalaska/Dutch Harbor, Alaska. N 53° 51.140' W 166° 30.228' (WGS 84) |
#8
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In theory, any song with a steady rhythm to it's words, or drum beat, would
do for cadence. Depending on whether you're paddling for fun or for competition, you may be able to or want to take a player with you for music. Of course, never have music up so loud that you can't hear cries for help, or someone's heave-to warnings. For that reason, lyrical cadence is much better. |
#10
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There are as many answers to your question as there paddlers. I missed the
initial comments, but allow me to ad my own. A flat water, olympic class paddler going 500 to 1000 meters will have a cadence much faster than a person in an ocean kaytak paddling in the San Juans. I don't know how long your paddle is. A longer one will turn a slower cadence than a short one. Olympic paddle used to be 220 cm + or -. The wing paddle has changed it a tad. Yes... catch as far forward as possible. Yes, rotate, so as if you had a broomstick straped on your shoulder blades it would scribe an arc of almost 90 degrees. . Yes glide is important. A momentary pause in the stroke just before lowering the blade to initiate the stroke will give you more distance per stroke without slowing the boat. A few other ideas: push open handed with the top hand as a shot put, and do so forward towards the bow of the boat. The top hand may cross centerline of the boat, but should not pass the opposite side of the boat. Just for the fun of it, Why does a racing scull go faster when the oars are out of the water, and slower with the blasdes in the water? (no it is not drag)... Mike |
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