|
How do you use............
.............WD40?
I just saw an interesting TV bit on how WD40 was developed. ========================== The Story "WD-40, everyone's favorite lubricant, came into being in 1953 at San Diego's Rocket Chemical Company, when rocket scientist Norm Larson strove to create a degreaser and solvent that would guard the rockets of America's budding space program from rust and corrosion. Larson tried 39 different combinations of chemicals before stumbling upon the one that would later become WD-40, an abbreviation signifying the 40th combination of water displacement. " http://travel.discovery.com/fansites...oods/wd40.html ============================ WD40 has become a versatile fluid for lubrication, cleaning and water proofing. This site gives 2000 uses for it. http://www.twbc.org/wd40.htm How do you use it on the boat? |
I have squirted in the key slot and the lightbulbs in the cabin and deck. I
read somewhere that this will displace the water and minimize any corrosion, I don't know if it helped, but I never had any problems. "Gene Kearns" wrote in message ... On Sat, 23 Jul 2005 16:34:01 -0400, "*JimH*" wrote: ............WD40? I just saw an interesting TV bit on how WD40 was developed. ========================== The Story "WD-40, everyone's favorite lubricant, came into being in 1953 at San Diego's Rocket Chemical Company, when rocket scientist Norm Larson strove to create a degreaser and solvent that would guard the rockets of America's budding space program from rust and corrosion. Larson tried 39 different combinations of chemicals before stumbling upon the one that would later become WD-40, an abbreviation signifying the 40th combination of water displacement. " http://travel.discovery.com/fansites...oods/wd40.html ============================ WD40 has become a versatile fluid for lubrication, cleaning and water proofing. This site gives 2000 uses for it. http://www.twbc.org/wd40.htm How do you use it on the boat? I've never found but two good uses for the stuff..... dispersing water (WD), like in a distributor cap and as a starting fluid.... that stuff is *really* flammable.... |
"Gene Kearns" wrote in message ... On Sat, 23 Jul 2005 16:34:01 -0400, "*JimH*" wrote: ............WD40? I just saw an interesting TV bit on how WD40 was developed. ========================== The Story "WD-40, everyone's favorite lubricant, came into being in 1953 at San Diego's Rocket Chemical Company, when rocket scientist Norm Larson strove to create a degreaser and solvent that would guard the rockets of America's budding space program from rust and corrosion. Larson tried 39 different combinations of chemicals before stumbling upon the one that would later become WD-40, an abbreviation signifying the 40th combination of water displacement. " http://travel.discovery.com/fansites...oods/wd40.html ============================ WD40 has become a versatile fluid for lubrication, cleaning and water proofing. This site gives 2000 uses for it. http://www.twbc.org/wd40.htm How do you use it on the boat? I've never found but two good uses for the stuff..... dispersing water (WD), like in a distributor cap and as a starting fluid.... that stuff is *really* flammable.... In it's liquid state it is no more volatile than ordinary cleaning solvent as you would find in a parts washer and with a FP over 100F, technically making it a class 2 combustible liquid. However, when atomized, it's surface area is increased in relationship to available oxygen, making it highly flammable when exposed to flame or a source of ignition. |
"*JimH*" wrote
when atomized, it's surface area is increased in relationship to available oxygen, making it highly flammable when exposed to flame or a source of ignition. It's a reasonably good potato gun fuel, when there's no cheap hair spray handy. http://users.adelphia.net/~blizzard3.../potatogun.htm |
"Joe Blizzard" wrote in message ... "*JimH*" wrote when atomized, it's surface area is increased in relationship to available oxygen, making it highly flammable when exposed to flame or a source of ignition. It's a reasonably good potato gun fuel, when there's no cheap hair spray handy. http://users.adelphia.net/~blizzard3.../potatogun.htm Duct tape may have more uses.......not sure though. ;-) |
On Sat, 23 Jul 2005 21:59:01 -0400, "Joe Blizzard"
wrote: "*JimH*" wrote when atomized, it's surface area is increased in relationship to available oxygen, making it highly flammable when exposed to flame or a source of ignition. It's a reasonably good potato gun fuel, when there's no cheap hair spray handy. http://users.adelphia.net/~blizzard3.../potatogun.htm You just had to make me go look! I found some proof of your wild assed assertion. http://platinumchromatography.com/potato.htm Thanks for the humor! -- John H. On the 'PocoLoco' out of Deale, MD |
*JimH* wrote:
WD40 has become a versatile fluid for lubrication, cleaning and water proofing. This site gives 2000 uses for it. http://www.twbc.org/wd40.htm How do you use it on the boat? I don't, it sux & is basically marked-up Stoddard solvent. There are far better penetrants as well as cleaners, and calling it a lube is almost a joke. |
wrote:
wrote: *JimH* wrote: WD40 has become a versatile fluid for lubrication, cleaning and water proofing. This site gives 2000 uses for it. http://www.twbc.org/wd40.htm How do you use it on the boat? I don't, it sux & is basically marked-up Stoddard solvent. There are far better penetrants as well as cleaners, and calling it a lube is almost a joke. Under the right circumstances, it's a fairly good lubricant, as is water. A good few years ago I remember reading an article about some testing done on various lubricants. This would probably have been in an electronics magazine. Basically, the tests (IIRC it was an inclined plane test with metal on metal and plastic on metal) showed that although the friction was lower with freshly applied WD40 than when dry, it was significantly higher than with just about any commonly available oil or grease and that adding WD40 to *ANY* other lubricant resulted in *MORE* friction than either that lubricant or WD40 alone. YMMV, but its the *LAST* thing I reach for if I want lubrication. I keep a minature can on board for de-watering my Seagull's carb and ignition if it ever goes for a swim, but otherwise its strictly a workshop convenience for sticky label remains, drilling or cutting Aluminium, cleaning up small parts etc. There are a couple of spray cans on the shelf and the oldest one (which I try to use up first unless I've left it somewhere stupid) is still about 1/3 full and has been there about 20 years. Its not a jumbo can either. A friend used to rent the garage and I 'inherited' it and a few tools from him so I am certain how long I've had that can. The other can he had on the go lasted me till the late 90's. He loved the stuff but was very much a 'hammer' mechanic. Good marketing though . . . -- Ian Malcolm. London, ENGLAND. (NEWSGROUP REPLY PREFERRED) ianm[at]the[dash]malcolms[dot]freeserve[dot]co[dot]uk [at]=@, [dash]=- & [dot]=. *Warning* HTML & 32K emails -- NUL: 'Stingo' Albacore #1554 - 15' Early 60's, Uffa Fox designed, All varnished hot moulded wooden racing dinghy. |
"Ian Malcolm" wrote in message ... wrote: wrote: *JimH* wrote: WD40 has become a versatile fluid for lubrication, cleaning and water proofing. This site gives 2000 uses for it. http://www.twbc.org/wd40.htm How do you use it on the boat? I don't, it sux & is basically marked-up Stoddard solvent. There are far better penetrants as well as cleaners, and calling it a lube is almost a joke. Under the right circumstances, it's a fairly good lubricant, as is water. A good few years ago I remember reading an article about some testing done on various lubricants. This would probably have been in an electronics magazine. Basically, the tests (IIRC it was an inclined plane test with metal on metal and plastic on metal) showed that although the friction was lower with freshly applied WD40 than when dry, it was significantly higher than with just about any commonly available oil or grease and that adding WD40 to *ANY* other lubricant resulted in *MORE* friction than either that lubricant or WD40 alone. YMMV, but its the *LAST* thing I reach for if I want lubrication. I keep a minature can on board for de-watering my Seagull's carb and ignition if it ever goes for a swim, but otherwise its strictly a workshop convenience for sticky label remains, drilling or cutting Aluminium, cleaning up small parts etc. There are a couple of spray cans on the shelf and the oldest one (which I try to use up first unless I've left it somewhere stupid) is still about 1/3 full and has been there about 20 years. Its not a jumbo can either. A friend used to rent the garage and I 'inherited' it and a few tools from him so I am certain how long I've had that can. The other can he had on the go lasted me till the late 90's. He loved the stuff but was very much a 'hammer' mechanic. Good marketing though . . . -- Ian Malcolm. London, ENGLAND. (NEWSGROUP REPLY PREFERRED) ianm[at]the[dash]malcolms[dot]freeserve[dot]co[dot]uk [at]=@, [dash]=- & [dot]=. *Warning* HTML & 32K emails -- NUL: 'Stingo' Albacore #1554 - 15' Early 60's, Uffa Fox designed, All varnished hot moulded wooden racing dinghy. I agree that it is not a great lubricant when compared to common grade oil or grease. It can, however, be used as a light lubricant, although perhaps not as effective as light machine oil. It is sometimes specifically noted as an acceptable light lubricant in certain cases and by some manufacturers: http://www.custombrackets.com/Scripts/wd40.asp http://www.cobramotorcycle.com/docs/...nersmanual.pdf http://www.truth.com/TechnicalSuppor...menu=homeowner On the other hand, some manufacturers specifically recommend against using it. Go figure. Heck, some folks use it on their lures as a fish attractant as well as on their joints as a relief to arthritis. ;-) |
"HarryKrause" wrote in message ... *JimH* wrote: It is sometimes specifically noted as an acceptable light lubricant in certain cases and by some manufacturers: http://www.custombrackets.com/Scripts/wd40.asp http://www.cobramotorcycle.com/docs/...nersmanual.pdf http://www.truth.com/TechnicalSuppor...menu=homeowner On the other hand, some manufacturers specifically recommend against using it. Go figure. Heck, some folks use it on their lures as a fish attractant as well as on their joints as a relief to arthritis. ;-) Please make a video of yourself lighting up one of your joints after you spray WD 40 on it. You are suffering from CRS. It is basskisser that is into pot. |
*JimH* wrote:
"Ian Malcolm" wrote in message ... wrote: wrote: *JimH* wrote: WD40 has become a versatile fluid for lubrication, cleaning and water proofing. This site gives 2000 uses for it. http://www.twbc.org/wd40.htm How do you use it on the boat? I don't, it sux & is basically marked-up Stoddard solvent. There are far better penetrants as well as cleaners, and calling it a lube is almost a joke. Under the right circumstances, it's a fairly good lubricant, as is water. A good few years ago I remember reading an article about some testing done on various lubricants. This would probably have been in an electronics magazine. Basically, the tests (IIRC it was an inclined plane test with metal on metal and plastic on metal) showed that although the friction was lower with freshly applied WD40 than when dry, it was significantly higher than with just about any commonly available oil or grease and that adding WD40 to *ANY* other lubricant resulted in *MORE* friction than either that lubricant or WD40 alone. YMMV, but its the *LAST* thing I reach for if I want lubrication. I keep a minature can on board for de-watering my Seagull's carb and ignition if it ever goes for a swim, but otherwise its strictly a workshop convenience for sticky label remains, drilling or cutting Aluminium, cleaning up small parts etc. There are a couple of spray cans on the shelf and the oldest one (which I try to use up first unless I've left it somewhere stupid) is still about 1/3 full and has been there about 20 years. Its not a jumbo can either. A friend used to rent the garage and I 'inherited' it and a few tools from him so I am certain how long I've had that can. The other can he had on the go lasted me till the late 90's. He loved the stuff but was very much a 'hammer' mechanic. I agree that it is not a great lubricant when compared to common grade oil or grease. It can, however, be used as a light lubricant, although perhaps not as effective as light machine oil. It is sometimes specifically noted as an acceptable light lubricant in certain cases and by some manufacturers: After 40+ yrs of working on, operating & restoring electronic gear on the side, I can say confidently that WD-40 is the worst **** you can spray on anything electrical or electronic that is of any future value to you or another. There are 2 pages of reasons why & how this has proven so. I now refuse to buy, work on, resell or trade anything electrical or electronic that's been sprayed with WD-40 if I can find out first. Armor-All and its cousins is tied with WD-40 for first place in overall debilitation (in different ways & materials). It is also lousy as a marine or machinery penetrant. AeroKroil is the best spray penetrant/loosener presently available. WD-40 is used by shade-tree tyros & wannabes who've never used a professional product or like wasting time. WD-40 is **** for fogging outboards. It is also lousy as a cutting & tapping fluid. TapFree is the best, though it's formula isn't as good as it was 10 yrs ago B4 the tree-huggers had govenment ruin it a little by subtraction, and good old lard is still excellent on those materials it's traditionally been used with. WD-40 and many other spray contact cleaners or penetrants eventually destroy switches, potentiometers, circuit boards, tube sockets, electrical phenolic-mounted components & the like. They almost always cannot be removed from the material and eventually it arc-tracks if it is high voltage. There is also no sense in using contact cleaners most of the time. Modern contacts are silver, gold or berylium plated & their oxides are as conductive as the base metals. The few times a contact cleaner is really needed, it needs to be applied carefully with a toothpick or similar exactly and only to the metal contact needed, and never to the surrounding insulating material. WD-40 as a lure enhancer is well-documented among my local area FW fishermen, including a few tournament bass-ers. They are not dope-smokers or usenet liars who fantasize about being boating experts. It is believed & credibly reported that some of its oil content is fish-derived, which may or may not have anything to do with this use. Since all the fish are now too full of mercury to eat, I haven't tried it. |
|
Gene Kearns wrote:
Tap Magic seems to work best for me, although TapFree is OK. Thank you, Gene, I'm almost out of my older stock (better formulation) of TapFree & will look for it. |
| All times are GMT +1. The time now is 05:31 PM. |
Powered by vBulletin® Copyright ©2000 - 2025, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Copyright ©2004 - 2014 BoatBanter.com