Low RPM
 

ok,

350 gm mercruiser.

I had a burnt valve. I took the head in to the machine shop and had it
replaced. I put it back together, did the timing ect. It is running a lot
better, but doesn't seem to have the full power. On the engine it says that
the max rpm should be 4400 - 4800. Although I only seem to be getting 4200
at the most. Also it seems a little slugish out of the hole. I checked the
compression on all clyinders and they are all very good. (160-170). I feel
as though it might have something to do with the timing. I read in a book
that the timing mark should hit in the same spot everytime. It's pretty
close but seems to very about 2-3 degrees each time. Might this be the
issue?

Any thoughts on what the problem might be here?

Cam setup timing?

In article ,
says...

ok,

350 gm mercruiser.

I had a burnt valve. I took the head in to the machine shop and had it
replaced. I put it back together, did the timing ect. It is running a lot
better, but doesn't seem to have the full power. On the engine it says that
the max rpm should be 4400 - 4800. Although I only seem to be getting 4200
at the most. Also it seems a little slugish out of the hole. I checked the
compression on all clyinders and they are all very good. (160-170). I feel
as though it might have something to do with the timing. I read in a book
that the timing mark should hit in the same spot everytime. It's pretty
close but seems to very about 2-3 degrees each time. Might this be the
issue?

Any thoughts on what the problem might be here?



So, I am guessing it did run better back before the burnt valve, and gave
you more power. If you had the head off, then you must have had to adjust
the valve lash. Back off until you hear the tick-tick-tick, and then tighten
slowly until the ticking stops, and adjust 1/4 to 1/2 turn more. Also, play
with the ignition timing. It may be just a bit late, advance it a bit and
'road test it'. Listen for the ping of detonation, in case you advance to
far. Also remember an over advanced motor will often not start when hot, it
will actually kick backwards and try to rip the starter right off the
engine. If you feel the engine doesn't make the power it used to, a bit of
tweaking is in order. Hope the new head is the same as the old head. You
did say you replaced the head? 67CC chamber vs. 73CC chamber? Port sizes
differant?

Same head. It does make a very light ticking sound, but that sound does not
increase with throttle. Would advancing the timing be to the right or left
of the line? also, would the adjustment of the rocker arms cause this
issue? And one last thing, I did put new plugs (gapped them) & wires in it
too.

"Gudmundur" wrote in message
...
In article ,
says...

ok,

350 gm mercruiser.

I had a burnt valve. I took the head in to the machine shop and had it
replaced. I put it back together, did the timing ect. It is running a
lot
better, but doesn't seem to have the full power. On the engine it says
that
the max rpm should be 4400 - 4800. Although I only seem to be getting
4200
at the most. Also it seems a little slugish out of the hole. I checked
the
compression on all clyinders and they are all very good. (160-170). I
feel
as though it might have something to do with the timing. I read in a book
that the timing mark should hit in the same spot everytime. It's pretty
close but seems to very about 2-3 degrees each time. Might this be the
issue?

Any thoughts on what the problem might be here?



So, I am guessing it did run better back before the burnt valve, and gave
you more power. If you had the head off, then you must have had to adjust
the valve lash. Back off until you hear the tick-tick-tick, and then
tighten
slowly until the ticking stops, and adjust 1/4 to 1/2 turn more. Also,
play
with the ignition timing. It may be just a bit late, advance it a bit and
'road test it'. Listen for the ping of detonation, in case you advance to
far. Also remember an over advanced motor will often not start when hot,
it
will actually kick backwards and try to rip the starter right off the
engine. If you feel the engine doesn't make the power it used to, a bit of
tweaking is in order. Hope the new head is the same as the old head. You
did say you replaced the head? 67CC chamber vs. 73CC chamber? Port sizes
differant?

You know I was thinking about it. When I did the timing there were 2 marks
on the flywheel, the org. factory mark and was that was scratched in. It
only seem to run ok when I used the scratched mark. But when I inserted the
distrutor, I used the factory mark to align to Top Dead Center. The 2 marks
are about a couple of inch's apart. Is this the problem? If so do I need to
reinsert the distributor at TDC (with the scratch mark), or can I just move
the timing a couple of inch's?



"Gudmundur" wrote in message
...
In article ,
says...

ok,

350 gm mercruiser.

I had a burnt valve. I took the head in to the machine shop and had it
replaced. I put it back together, did the timing ect. It is running a
lot
better, but doesn't seem to have the full power. On the engine it says
that
the max rpm should be 4400 - 4800. Although I only seem to be getting
4200
at the most. Also it seems a little slugish out of the hole. I checked
the
compression on all clyinders and they are all very good. (160-170). I
feel
as though it might have something to do with the timing. I read in a book
that the timing mark should hit in the same spot everytime. It's pretty
close but seems to very about 2-3 degrees each time. Might this be the
issue?

Any thoughts on what the problem might be here?



So, I am guessing it did run better back before the burnt valve, and gave
you more power. If you had the head off, then you must have had to adjust
the valve lash. Back off until you hear the tick-tick-tick, and then
tighten
slowly until the ticking stops, and adjust 1/4 to 1/2 turn more. Also,
play
with the ignition timing. It may be just a bit late, advance it a bit and
'road test it'. Listen for the ping of detonation, in case you advance to
far. Also remember an over advanced motor will often not start when hot,
it
will actually kick backwards and try to rip the starter right off the
engine. If you feel the engine doesn't make the power it used to, a bit of
tweaking is in order. Hope the new head is the same as the old head. You
did say you replaced the head? 67CC chamber vs. 73CC chamber? Port sizes
differant?

"nate" wrote in message
...
ok,

350 gm mercruiser.

I had a burnt valve. I took the head in to the machine shop and had it
replaced. I put it back together, did the timing ect. It is running a
lot better, but doesn't seem to have the full power. On the engine it
says that the max rpm should be 4400 - 4800. Although I only seem to be
getting 4200 at the most. Also it seems a little slugish out of the hole.
I checked the compression on all clyinders and they are all very good.
(160-170). I feel as though it might have something to do with the
timing. I read in a book that the timing mark should hit in the same spot
everytime. It's pretty close but seems to very about 2-3 degrees each
time. Might this be the issue?

Any thoughts on what the problem might be here?

You have had this running 44-4800 at some time? If it never ran that speed
than you need a smaller pitch prop.
If it did run at speed and all you changed was the head than timing may be
an issue. Advance it 2 degrees at a time till you hear knock. See if that
picks it up a bit.
You did follow the timing instructions and remove/plug correct hoses or
disconnect certain wires (you didn't mention the year so I don't know what
kind of ignition you have)

In article ,
says...

You know I was thinking about it. When I did the timing there were 2 marks
on the flywheel, the org. factory mark and was that was scratched in. It
only seem to run ok when I used the scratched mark. But when I inserted the
distrutor, I used the factory mark to align to Top Dead Center. The 2 marks
are about a couple of inch's apart. Is this the problem? If so do I need to
reinsert the distributor at TDC (with the scratch mark), or can I just move
the timing a couple of inch's?


I would leave the distributor alone for now, at least as far as pulling it
out goes. If you can get the desired timing without the advance can hitting
anything you will be o.k.

I hope I am correct about your motor here, Turning the distributor
counter-clockwise will advance the timing. I like a lot of advance, but
you have to quit when you hear pinging under acceleration when the engine
is hot, and you have cheap fuel in it. Also, I find with a lot of
advance the engine is hard to crank over when it's hot. The spark occurs
to early and almost stops the motor dead while cranking. If you have
that much advance, back it off a bit. I time by ear and by feel, and
not with a light. A light gets me in the ballpark only. Every engine seems
to have a personality, and some like a ton of advance, others don't, and
none seem to run at their peak using the factory setting.

As for the 'ticking', I was refering to the click-click-click of a
to loose rocker adjustment. I very very slowly adjust mine looser until
they very lightly start clicking, then very slowly adjust tighter about
1/3 turn past where they stop ticking. Never more than 1/2 turn.
Of course you do this one rocker at a time. If they are all clicking you
can't tell what's going on. I made a very special valve cover with eight
3/4 inch holes punched directly above the rocker studs. I can adjust my
valve train all day long, and never spill one drop of oil.

Hope all of this helps.

calhoun,

Sorry I left that out. That is a good point It's a 1997. Do I need to
disconnect anything when doing the timing?. The only 2 things I noticed
that were connected to the distributor was 2 wires. I know with both of
them unplugged it doesn't start.

"calhoun" wrote in message
.. .

"nate" wrote in message
...
ok,

350 gm mercruiser.

I had a burnt valve. I took the head in to the machine shop and had it
replaced. I put it back together, did the timing ect. It is running a
lot better, but doesn't seem to have the full power. On the engine it
says that the max rpm should be 4400 - 4800. Although I only seem to be
getting 4200 at the most. Also it seems a little slugish out of the
hole. I checked the compression on all clyinders and they are all very
good. (160-170). I feel as though it might have something to do with the
timing. I read in a book that the timing mark should hit in the same
spot everytime. It's pretty close but seems to very about 2-3 degrees
each time. Might this be the issue?

Any thoughts on what the problem might be here?

You have had this running 44-4800 at some time? If it never ran that speed
than you need a smaller pitch prop.
If it did run at speed and all you changed was the head than timing may be
an issue. Advance it 2 degrees at a time till you hear knock. See if that
picks it up a bit.
You did follow the timing instructions and remove/plug correct hoses or
disconnect certain wires (you didn't mention the year so I don't know what
kind of ignition you have)

In article ,
says...

calhoun,

Sorry I left that out. That is a good point It's a 1997. Do I need to
disconnect anything when doing the timing?. The only 2 things I noticed
that were connected to the distributor was 2 wires. I know with both of
them unplugged it doesn't start.

One wire should be the +12vdc 'run' wire, and one should be to the tach.

At the base of the distributor should be a vacuum advance hose, but
some distributors don't have a vacuum advance, only the internal
weighted mechanical advance.

Normally, you remove and plug the advance hose while setting the
timing. If you have vacuum advance, and you didn't remove the hose
when setting your timing, your timing is way off, very late indeed!

Marine distributors do not have vacuum advance. Is worthless on a boat
motor. If it has the electronic ignition with computer, there is a wire to
remove the computer induced timing.

"Gudmundur" wrote in message
...
In article ,
says...

calhoun,

Sorry I left that out. That is a good point It's a 1997. Do I need to
disconnect anything when doing the timing?. The only 2 things I noticed
that were connected to the distributor was 2 wires. I know with both of
them unplugged it doesn't start.

One wire should be the +12vdc 'run' wire, and one should be to the tach.

At the base of the distributor should be a vacuum advance hose, but
some distributors don't have a vacuum advance, only the internal
weighted mechanical advance.

Normally, you remove and plug the advance hose while setting the
timing. If you have vacuum advance, and you didn't remove the hose
when setting your timing, your timing is way off, very late indeed!

"Bill McKee" wrote in message
nk.net...

Marine distributors do not have vacuum advance.

Is worthless on a boat motor.

Why would that be?

"Mr Wizzard" wrote in message
...

"Bill McKee" wrote in message
nk.net...

Marine distributors do not have vacuum advance.

Is worthless on a boat motor.

Why would that be?



You get the big vacuum advance when slowing down. During engine braking.
When do you get this in a boat?

"Mr Wizzard" wrote in message
...

"Bill McKee" wrote in message
nk.net...

Marine distributors do not have vacuum advance.

Is worthless on a boat motor.

Why would that be?

Because water is always level, and the same thickness. There is no long-term
varying load on a boat motor. Boats cant go "uphill"...or even "downhill".

--
-Netsock

"It's just about going fast...that's all..."
http://home.columbus.rr.com/ckg/

Bill,

I think it is electronic ignition. Does that mean that I need to disconnect
one of the 2 wires that go into the distrubutor when I do the timing?


"Bill McKee" wrote in message
nk.net...
Marine distributors do not have vacuum advance. Is worthless on a boat
motor. If it has the electronic ignition with computer, there is a wire
to remove the computer induced timing.

"Gudmundur" wrote in message
...
In article ,
says...

calhoun,

Sorry I left that out. That is a good point It's a 1997. Do I need to
disconnect anything when doing the timing?. The only 2 things I noticed
that were connected to the distributor was 2 wires. I know with both of
them unplugged it doesn't start.

One wire should be the +12vdc 'run' wire, and one should be to the tach.

At the base of the distributor should be a vacuum advance hose, but
some distributors don't have a vacuum advance, only the internal
weighted mechanical advance.

Normally, you remove and plug the advance hose while setting the
timing. If you have vacuum advance, and you didn't remove the hose
when setting your timing, your timing is way off, very late indeed!

"Bill McKee" wrote in message
k.net...

"Mr Wizzard" wrote in message
...

"Bill McKee" wrote in message
nk.net...

Marine distributors do not have vacuum advance.

Is worthless on a boat motor.

Why would that be?



You get the big vacuum advance when slowing down. During engine braking.
When do you get this in a boat?

Ah! - good point, I never even thought of that!

"HarryKrause" wrote in message
...
Netsock wrote:
"Mr Wizzard" wrote in message
...
"Bill McKee" wrote in message
nk.net...

Marine distributors do not have vacuum advance.
Is worthless on a boat motor.
Why would that be?

Because water is always level, and the same thickness. There is no
long-term
varying load on a boat motor. Boats cant go "uphill"...or even
"downhill".



Only an inland boater with no experience on big open water would make
such an idiotic claim.

Hold up mate - I'm not sure calling his statement an
"idiotic claim" is warranted (or correct for that matter)
The idea that he is communicating is that water is
the same thickness, prop is always the same pitch,
and the boat is basically always pretty much level
(static friction, weight, etc) so therefore the torque
load on the motor is pretty much static, and always
the same (assuming that you don't break out into
cavitation often). i.e. in "gear-speak", there is
no "coast" - the drive train is always in "drive".
Further, (his downhill statement), the drivetrain never
has to race up, or "catch up" with an already moving
rotational load.



Water is always level....

Hohohohohohehehehehehahahaha.

So what are you saying here? Swells, chop,
yeah, suspose the boat can bob up/down for
a bit, and a few degrees here, and there, but
that doesn't make it non-level (addressing
basic static resistance). Bobing up/down in
a huge wake, swell, etc., even for short burts
doesn't really even change static resistance
(levelness) in my mind, because at thst point
all you are really doing is rolling fore/aft around
the CG point (center of gravity) of the vessel, no ?








--
Let's pray the United States survives the rest of Bush's term.

"Pray" ? (or maybe "prEy" ? hehe). Hey, lets keep
"Religion" out of Bush's term - isn't that what the
non-Bushies are always whining about anyhow ??

Wiz,
If you are in heavy seas or running an inlet the water is not level. If you
boat on a small lake, for the most part the water, is level.


"Mr Wizzard" wrote in message
...

"HarryKrause" wrote in message
...
Netsock wrote:
"Mr Wizzard" wrote in message
...
"Bill McKee" wrote in message
nk.net...

Marine distributors do not have vacuum advance.
Is worthless on a boat motor.
Why would that be?

Because water is always level, and the same thickness. There is no
long-term
varying load on a boat motor. Boats cant go "uphill"...or even
"downhill".



Only an inland boater with no experience on big open water would make
such an idiotic claim.

Hold up mate - I'm not sure calling his statement an
"idiotic claim" is warranted (or correct for that matter)
The idea that he is communicating is that water is
the same thickness, prop is always the same pitch,
and the boat is basically always pretty much level
(static friction, weight, etc) so therefore the torque
load on the motor is pretty much static, and always
the same (assuming that you don't break out into
cavitation often). i.e. in "gear-speak", there is
no "coast" - the drive train is always in "drive".
Further, (his downhill statement), the drivetrain never
has to race up, or "catch up" with an already moving
rotational load.



Water is always level....

Hohohohohohehehehehehahahaha.

So what are you saying here? Swells, chop,
yeah, suspose the boat can bob up/down for
a bit, and a few degrees here, and there, but
that doesn't make it non-level (addressing
basic static resistance). Bobing up/down in
a huge wake, swell, etc., even for short burts
doesn't really even change static resistance
(levelness) in my mind, because at thst point
all you are really doing is rolling fore/aft around
the CG point (center of gravity) of the vessel, no ?








--
Let's pray the United States survives the rest of Bush's term.

"Pray" ? (or maybe "prEy" ? hehe). Hey, lets keep
"Religion" out of Bush's term - isn't that what the
non-Bushies are always whining about anyhow ??

"Real Name" wrote in message
...
Wiz,
If you are in heavy seas or running an inlet the water is not level. If
you
boat on a small lake, for the most part the water, is level.

Gotcha, thanks for the info.




"Mr Wizzard" wrote in message
...

"HarryKrause" wrote in message
...
Netsock wrote:
"Mr Wizzard" wrote in message
...
"Bill McKee" wrote in message
nk.net...

Marine distributors do not have vacuum advance.
Is worthless on a boat motor.
Why would that be?

Because water is always level, and the same thickness. There is no
long-term
varying load on a boat motor. Boats cant go "uphill"...or even
"downhill".



Only an inland boater with no experience on big open water would make
such an idiotic claim.

Hold up mate - I'm not sure calling his statement an
"idiotic claim" is warranted (or correct for that matter)
The idea that he is communicating is that water is
the same thickness, prop is always the same pitch,
and the boat is basically always pretty much level
(static friction, weight, etc) so therefore the torque
load on the motor is pretty much static, and always
the same (assuming that you don't break out into
cavitation often). i.e. in "gear-speak", there is
no "coast" - the drive train is always in "drive".
Further, (his downhill statement), the drivetrain never
has to race up, or "catch up" with an already moving
rotational load.



Water is always level....

Hohohohohohehehehehehahahaha.

So what are you saying here? Swells, chop,
yeah, suspose the boat can bob up/down for
a bit, and a few degrees here, and there, but
that doesn't make it non-level (addressing
basic static resistance). Bobing up/down in
a huge wake, swell, etc., even for short burts
doesn't really even change static resistance
(levelness) in my mind, because at thst point
all you are really doing is rolling fore/aft around
the CG point (center of gravity) of the vessel, no ?








--
Let's pray the United States survives the rest of Bush's term.

"Pray" ? (or maybe "prEy" ? hehe). Hey, lets keep
"Religion" out of Bush's term - isn't that what the
non-Bushies are always whining about anyhow ??

"HarryKrause" wrote in message
...

On the small lakes where Netscum is able to run his daddy's alleged jet
boat, I am sure the water is relatively flat. Has to be for the kinds of
speeds he is claiming.


Harry,
Why the insults directed towards Netsock? Not everyone has to fabricate
stories to prop (pun intended) up their weak ego.

"Real Name" wrote in message
...

"HarryKrause" wrote in message
...

On the small lakes where Netscum is able to run his daddy's alleged jet
boat, I am sure the water is relatively flat. Has to be for the kinds
of
speeds he is claiming.


Harry,
Why the insults directed towards Netsock? Not everyone has to fabricate
stories to prop (pun intended) up their weak ego.

What speed did that lobsta boat do?

Gundmundur,

Thanks for the tips. I advanced the timing a couple of inch's this time
(instead of just a few º). I played around with until until I got the best
performance. It seems to be running really good right now. But I still
have that ting ting ting. If I adjust the rocker arms witht he engine
running, is oil going to go everywhere?

"Gudmundur" wrote in message
...
In article ,
says...

You know I was thinking about it. When I did the timing there were 2
marks
on the flywheel, the org. factory mark and was that was scratched in. It
only seem to run ok when I used the scratched mark. But when I inserted
the
distrutor, I used the factory mark to align to Top Dead Center. The 2
marks
are about a couple of inch's apart. Is this the problem? If so do I need
to
reinsert the distributor at TDC (with the scratch mark), or can I just
move
the timing a couple of inch's?


I would leave the distributor alone for now, at least as far as pulling it
out goes. If you can get the desired timing without the advance can
hitting
anything you will be o.k.

I hope I am correct about your motor here, Turning the distributor
counter-clockwise will advance the timing. I like a lot of advance, but
you have to quit when you hear pinging under acceleration when the engine
is hot, and you have cheap fuel in it. Also, I find with a lot of
advance the engine is hard to crank over when it's hot. The spark occurs
to early and almost stops the motor dead while cranking. If you have
that much advance, back it off a bit. I time by ear and by feel, and
not with a light. A light gets me in the ballpark only. Every engine seems
to have a personality, and some like a ton of advance, others don't, and
none seem to run at their peak using the factory setting.

As for the 'ticking', I was refering to the click-click-click of a
to loose rocker adjustment. I very very slowly adjust mine looser until
they very lightly start clicking, then very slowly adjust tighter about
1/3 turn past where they stop ticking. Never more than 1/2 turn.
Of course you do this one rocker at a time. If they are all clicking you
can't tell what's going on. I made a very special valve cover with eight
3/4 inch holes punched directly above the rocker studs. I can adjust my
valve train all day long, and never spill one drop of oil.

Hope all of this helps.

Oh ya, and the ping doesn't get worse when I speed up. In fact I can only
hear it when we're idle.

"Gudmundur" wrote in message
...
In article ,
says...

You know I was thinking about it. When I did the timing there were 2
marks
on the flywheel, the org. factory mark and was that was scratched in. It
only seem to run ok when I used the scratched mark. But when I inserted
the
distrutor, I used the factory mark to align to Top Dead Center. The 2
marks
are about a couple of inch's apart. Is this the problem? If so do I need
to
reinsert the distributor at TDC (with the scratch mark), or can I just
move
the timing a couple of inch's?


I would leave the distributor alone for now, at least as far as pulling it
out goes. If you can get the desired timing without the advance can
hitting
anything you will be o.k.

I hope I am correct about your motor here, Turning the distributor
counter-clockwise will advance the timing. I like a lot of advance, but
you have to quit when you hear pinging under acceleration when the engine
is hot, and you have cheap fuel in it. Also, I find with a lot of
advance the engine is hard to crank over when it's hot. The spark occurs
to early and almost stops the motor dead while cranking. If you have
that much advance, back it off a bit. I time by ear and by feel, and
not with a light. A light gets me in the ballpark only. Every engine seems
to have a personality, and some like a ton of advance, others don't, and
none seem to run at their peak using the factory setting.

As for the 'ticking', I was refering to the click-click-click of a
to loose rocker adjustment. I very very slowly adjust mine looser until
they very lightly start clicking, then very slowly adjust tighter about
1/3 turn past where they stop ticking. Never more than 1/2 turn.
Of course you do this one rocker at a time. If they are all clicking you
can't tell what's going on. I made a very special valve cover with eight
3/4 inch holes punched directly above the rocker studs. I can adjust my
valve train all day long, and never spill one drop of oil.

Hope all of this helps.

there is very little down hill, deceleration time. You may be in an inlet
with large swells or even standing waves, but you power up and over the
wave, you do not coast for any appreciable time. So very little time when
you have a high vacuum, low load on the engine in a boat.

"Mr Wizzard" wrote in message
...

"Real Name" wrote in message
...
Wiz,
If you are in heavy seas or running an inlet the water is not level. If
you
boat on a small lake, for the most part the water, is level.

Gotcha, thanks for the info.




"Mr Wizzard" wrote in message
...

"HarryKrause" wrote in message
...
Netsock wrote:
"Mr Wizzard" wrote in message
...
"Bill McKee" wrote in message
nk.net...

Marine distributors do not have vacuum advance.
Is worthless on a boat motor.
Why would that be?

Because water is always level, and the same thickness. There is no
long-term
varying load on a boat motor. Boats cant go "uphill"...or even
"downhill".



Only an inland boater with no experience on big open water would make
such an idiotic claim.

Hold up mate - I'm not sure calling his statement an
"idiotic claim" is warranted (or correct for that matter)
The idea that he is communicating is that water is
the same thickness, prop is always the same pitch,
and the boat is basically always pretty much level
(static friction, weight, etc) so therefore the torque
load on the motor is pretty much static, and always
the same (assuming that you don't break out into
cavitation often). i.e. in "gear-speak", there is
no "coast" - the drive train is always in "drive".
Further, (his downhill statement), the drivetrain never
has to race up, or "catch up" with an already moving
rotational load.



Water is always level....

Hohohohohohehehehehehahahaha.

So what are you saying here? Swells, chop,
yeah, suspose the boat can bob up/down for
a bit, and a few degrees here, and there, but
that doesn't make it non-level (addressing
basic static resistance). Bobing up/down in
a huge wake, swell, etc., even for short burts
doesn't really even change static resistance
(levelness) in my mind, because at thst point
all you are really doing is rolling fore/aft around
the CG point (center of gravity) of the vessel, no ?








--
Let's pray the United States survives the rest of Bush's term.

"Pray" ? (or maybe "prEy" ? hehe). Hey, lets keep
"Religion" out of Bush's term - isn't that what the
non-Bushies are always whining about anyhow ??

"HarryKrause" wrote in message
...
Mr Wizzard wrote:
"HarryKrause" wrote in message
...
Netsock wrote:
"Mr Wizzard" wrote in message
...
"Bill McKee" wrote in message
nk.net...

Marine distributors do not have vacuum advance.
Is worthless on a boat motor.
Why would that be?
Because water is always level, and the same thickness. There is no
long-term
varying load on a boat motor. Boats cant go "uphill"...or even
"downhill".

Only an inland boater with no experience on big open water would make
such an idiotic claim.

Hold up mate - I'm not sure calling his statement an
"idiotic claim" is warranted (or correct for that matter)
The idea that he is communicating is that water is
the same thickness, prop is always the same pitch,
and the boat is basically always pretty much level
(static friction, weight, etc) so therefore the torque
load on the motor is pretty much static, and always
the same (assuming that you don't break out into
cavitation often). i.e. in "gear-speak", there is
no "coast" - the drive train is always in "drive".
Further, (his downhill statement), the drivetrain never
has to race up, or "catch up" with an already moving
rotational load.


Water is always level....

Hohohohohohehehehehehahahaha.

So what are you saying here? Swells, chop,
yeah, suspose the boat can bob up/down for
a bit, and a few degrees here, and there, but
that doesn't make it non-level (addressing
basic static resistance). Bobing up/down in
a huge wake, swell, etc., even for short burts
doesn't really even change static resistance
(levelness) in my mind, because at thst point
all you are really doing is rolling fore/aft around
the CG point (center of gravity) of the vessel, no ?

Try running a few ocean inlets, say, St. Augustine Inlet, Matanzas
Inlet, St. Mary's Inlet, Mayport Inlet, and report back on how level
the water is.

Some days there are four to five foot breaking rollers coming in these
inlets, and several of them are quite long. The water in them is not
level.

Good Gawd, 4-5 foot rollers ? So how fast (typically) would
one be going to "work" thru rollers like that?




Out on the ocean, four to five foot waves are common and the typical
pleasure boat may be riding up those waves and then down those waves.
You'll lose speed going "uphill" in the water and if you're not careful
going "downhill," you'll not only pick up speed, you might broach. Your
engine will lose RPM and then gain it back in a hurry because on the
other side of the peak as you are headed to the trough, your boat, for
all intents and purposes, may approach instances where there is nothing
for the engine to push.

I see. Interesting. Man, and here I tought navigating around
Mr/Mrs Doe pulling little Johnny around on a inner tube on
the local lake was tough going.



As for water having the same thickness, well, if you're out in an ocean
storm and the waves are breaking, you'll oft find yourself with your
prop in "foamy" water. The "water" there is not quite as thick as you
might think! (Yes, I know what you are saying."

Never knew this either. Thanks for the info.


On the small lakes where Netscum is able to run his daddy's alleged jet
boat, I am sure the water is relatively flat. Has to be for the kinds of
speeds he is claiming.

So here's a question for ya. I got this new Bayliner 175 Capi, right?
Been on the local lakes here in the NW, some of which are huge.
So just how durable is a boat like this in the big waves? Secifically,
when you "land". The reason I ask is, on a few ocassions, I didn't
calculate the wave, and speed correctly, and hit really hard. And on
one recent occasion this last weekend, I came down *SO* hard
that I heard my front teeth hit my lower teeth, and scared the ****
out of me so much that I actually shut the boat down, and had to
stop and get my witts back. So I'm wondering what possible
damage I could have done to the boat? I was going "maybe" 20-ish.
I'm wondering if something like this could knock the motor/outdrive
out of alignment, or worse yet, crack/break something. What of the
battery? - the lead plates can't be overly durable, can they ?
Man, I just want to forget that moment, because I *never* knew
a boat on water could land, and slam "that" hard on water.

"HarryKrause" wrote in message
...
Mr Wizzard wrote:

Water is always level....

Hohohohohohehehehehehahahaha.
So what are you saying here? Swells, chop,
yeah, suspose the boat can bob up/down for
a bit, and a few degrees here, and there, but
that doesn't make it non-level (addressing
basic static resistance). Bobing up/down in
a huge wake, swell, etc., even for short burts
doesn't really even change static resistance
(levelness) in my mind, because at thst point
all you are really doing is rolling fore/aft around
the CG point (center of gravity) of the vessel, no ?
Try running a few ocean inlets, say, St. Augustine Inlet, Matanzas
Inlet, St. Mary's Inlet, Mayport Inlet, and report back on how level
the water is.

Some days there are four to five foot breaking rollers coming in these
inlets, and several of them are quite long. The water in them is not
level.

Good Gawd, 4-5 foot rollers ? So how fast (typically) would
one be going to "work" thru rollers like that?

It depends upon the local conditions. Really, there is no pat answer. In
some of those inlets, on some days, I've had to run at least 15 knots to
maintain headway, especially at the end of the day when lots of boats
are coming in and you don't want to be broached because the boat behind
you might slam into you. You need enough speed to maintain steering
control. If you know what you are doing, it's fun "surfing" your way in.
That's the inlet at Mayport, Florida.

At St. Augustine Inlet, it typically isn't that rough, but there is
sometimes a five to six knot current and some of the slower boats seem
to take nearly forever getting out into the ocean.


Out on the ocean, four to five foot waves are common and the typical
pleasure boat may be riding up those waves and then down those waves.
You'll lose speed going "uphill" in the water and if you're not careful
going "downhill," you'll not only pick up speed, you might broach. Your
engine will lose RPM and then gain it back in a hurry because on the
other side of the peak as you are headed to the trough, your boat, for
all intents and purposes, may approach instances where there is nothing
for the engine to push.

I see. Interesting. Man, and here I tought navigating around
Mr/Mrs Doe pulling little Johnny around on a inner tube on
the local lake was tough going.


As for water having the same thickness, well, if you're out in an ocean
storm and the waves are breaking, you'll oft find yourself with your
prop in "foamy" water. The "water" there is not quite as thick as you
might think! (Yes, I know what you are saying."

Never knew this either. Thanks for the info.

On the small lakes where Netscum is able to run his daddy's alleged jet
boat, I am sure the water is relatively flat. Has to be for the kinds
of
speeds he is claiming.

So here's a question for ya. I got this new Bayliner 175 Capi, right?
Been on the local lakes here in the NW, some of which are huge.
So just how durable is a boat like this in the big waves? Secifically,
when you "land". The reason I ask is, on a few ocassions, I didn't
calculate the wave, and speed correctly, and hit really hard. And on
one recent occasion this last weekend, I came down *SO* hard
that I heard my front teeth hit my lower teeth, and scared the ****
out of me so much that I actually shut the boat down, and had to
stop and get my witts back. So I'm wondering what possible
damage I could have done to the boat? I was going "maybe" 20-ish.
I'm wondering if something like this could knock the motor/outdrive
out of alignment, or worse yet, crack/break something. What of the
battery? - the lead plates can't be overly durable, can they ?
Man, I just want to forget that moment, because I *never* knew
a boat on water could land, and slam "that" hard on water.

I don't know how durable your boat is. One of my boats is a 25' Parker,
weighs about 7000 pounds, and is built like an oak tree. I always slow
down when hitting a substantial boat wake or short choppy waves. It's
easier on the boat. You can break things on your boat, like seats, and
you can crack your hull or your decks. Boats are damaged all the time by
hitting waves at too high a speed and then slamming down into the
troughs. Best to slow down; easier on you, easier on the boat.
Especially in a smaller boat. Boat repairs are usually very expensive,
and spinal cord injuries are even worse.

Really? ****. That one I hit the other day still worries me.
I wonder if there is something I should check to see if I
really hurt anything. Or will it become evident over time?
I was hoping that it felt/sounded worse than it really was,
but I'm starting to wonder now. Oh well, too late now,
I'll just be more carefull.

In article ,
says...

Gundmundur,

Thanks for the tips. I advanced the timing a couple of inch's this time
(instead of just a few º). I played around with until until I got the best
performance. It seems to be running really good right now. But I still
have that ting ting ting. If I adjust the rocker arms witht he engine
running, is oil going to go everywhere?


I have an old valve cover that I used a Greenlee 3/4 inch punch to
place 8 holes exactly centered over the rocker studs. This allows my
5/8 inch deep well socket to fit down over the adjustment nut.

When you adjust the rocker, back off very slowly until you hear the
tick-tick-tick. Then very slowly turn the adjustment clockwise until
the ticking stops. Proceed to adjust 1/4 to 1/2 turn tighter, but not
more than 1/2!

You will develope a feel for this adjustment. Your lifters are oil
filled hydraulic, and the whole point is that they 'compensate' for
normal wear in the valve train. While you are adjusting they are
dynamically changing. If you adjust to loose, they will reach the end
of their travel, and you will hear the ticking. If you adjust to tight,
the engine will idle rough as hell, not take a load at low rpm, and
probably burn the valves from not seating completely at high rpm.

A slight tick-tick-tick at very low idle rpm is tolerable and even
somewhat normal, so long as the ticking stops almost as soon as the
engine is brought above idle.

Two things to remember on Chevy rocker adjustment. 1 the studs are
pressed in and known to back out. If after proper adjustment, you
run the engine for several hours at high rpm and the ticking comes
back and sounds more like loud clacking, look for a stud which is
no longer anchored firmly in the head. 2 the adjustment is supposed
to be self locking, but if you play with the adjustment to much it
loses the ability to self lock and will begin to drift to the loose
side followed by the return of clicking noises. This is why all
serious high endurance engines change over to screw in studs and
jamnut adjusters. Some even run 'rocker stud girdles'.

Best wishes. Writing this reminds me that I need to go spend some
time under the hood of my tow vehicle. 1948 streetrod pickup truck.
Haven't messed with anything under the hood in 5 years other than
oil changes. Think it's about time for plug wires and a tune up.

Gummi (Icelandic horseman now boating in America)