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#1
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"Gould 0738" wrote in message
... If a battery is discharged to 80%, and then you put it on a float charger at 13.2, you won't add much (if anything) to the charge state, but because of the surface charge you will get a reading of 13.2. If a battery has discharged to 80% and you put it on a charger that brings it up to 13.2, nothing really happened. OK. Whatever you say. Guess one has to wait for the battery gods to bless the charger before there's any "real" change in the voltage. You keep missing the point. The fact that the Voltage reads 13.2 while the charger is running is completely meaningless. It does not mean that the battery has "been brought up" to 13.2 Volts, it only means that the charger can sustain that Voltage. Immediately after removing the charger, the Voltage will still be artificially high. As Calder says: "... the surface areas of the plates in a discharged battery are the first to be recharged, but thereafter it takes time for the charge to diffuse into the inner plate areas. The surface voltage must build up on the accessible plate areas before the inner areas begin to receive a charge. Surface voltage is what is measured by a voltmeter ... if charging ceases, the voltage differential inside a battery will slowly equalize until the battery reaches an internal equilibrium, known as an open circuit state." The point is, if you read the voltage immediately after removing the charger, all you're reading is an artifact of the recent charge; you learn nothing about the state of charge. I should have been buying lotto tickets all these years. With frequent checks of battery electrolyte level, quarterly checks of specific gravity with a hydrometer, and periodic terminal cleaning I thought I could trust my voltmeter. Come to discover that my track record of never being stuck without battery power is nothing but dumb luck. No, it sounds like you;ve been doing all the right things. However, reading the voltage immediately after turning off the charger has been a waste of time. |
#2
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I use two very unscientific methods to get a rough idea of my battery
capacity.... -Turn off the charger for a couple days (No DC fridge or other high current devices left on) and check to see if the engines will start. (I do this once a year before the main cruising season) -Watch the voltage drop when I start the engines cold. This is a relative measurement so you have to have tried this when the batteries were new. Another one is to watch the V drop when using the windlass under a standard load (Free lift-no pull). Jeff Morris wrote: "Gould 0738" wrote in message ... If a battery is discharged to 80%, and then you put it on a float charger at 13.2, you won't add much (if anything) to the charge state, but because of the surface charge you will get a reading of 13.2. If a battery has discharged to 80% and you put it on a charger that brings it up to 13.2, nothing really happened. OK. Whatever you say. Guess one has to wait for the battery gods to bless the charger before there's any "real" change in the voltage. You keep missing the point. The fact that the Voltage reads 13.2 while the charger is running is completely meaningless. It does not mean that the battery has "been brought up" to 13.2 Volts, it only means that the charger can sustain that Voltage. Immediately after removing the charger, the Voltage will still be artificially high. As Calder says: "... the surface areas of the plates in a discharged battery are the first to be recharged, but thereafter it takes time for the charge to diffuse into the inner plate areas. The surface voltage must build up on the accessible plate areas before the inner areas begin to receive a charge. Surface voltage is what is measured by a voltmeter ... if charging ceases, the voltage differential inside a battery will slowly equalize until the battery reaches an internal equilibrium, known as an open circuit state." The point is, if you read the voltage immediately after removing the charger, all you're reading is an artifact of the recent charge; you learn nothing about the state of charge. I should have been buying lotto tickets all these years. With frequent checks of battery electrolyte level, quarterly checks of specific gravity with a hydrometer, and periodic terminal cleaning I thought I could trust my voltmeter. Come to discover that my track record of never being stuck without battery power is nothing but dumb luck. No, it sounds like you;ve been doing all the right things. However, reading the voltage immediately after turning off the charger has been a waste of time. |
#3
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I shall try again.
My boat's gauge and my garmin 220 fishfinder both read 14.8. Is this too high and should I be concerned? "Ed" wrote in message . .. I use two very unscientific methods to get a rough idea of my battery capacity.... -Turn off the charger for a couple days (No DC fridge or other high current devices left on) and check to see if the engines will start. (I do this once a year before the main cruising season) -Watch the voltage drop when I start the engines cold. This is a relative measurement so you have to have tried this when the batteries were new. Another one is to watch the V drop when using the windlass under a standard load (Free lift-no pull). Jeff Morris wrote: "Gould 0738" wrote in message ... If a battery is discharged to 80%, and then you put it on a float charger at 13.2, you won't add much (if anything) to the charge state, but because of the surface charge you will get a reading of 13.2. If a battery has discharged to 80% and you put it on a charger that brings it up to 13.2, nothing really happened. OK. Whatever you say. Guess one has to wait for the battery gods to bless the charger before there's any "real" change in the voltage. You keep missing the point. The fact that the Voltage reads 13.2 while the charger is running is completely meaningless. It does not mean that the battery has "been brought up" to 13.2 Volts, it only means that the charger can sustain that Voltage. Immediately after removing the charger, the Voltage will still be artificially high. As Calder says: "... the surface areas of the plates in a discharged battery are the first to be recharged, but thereafter it takes time for the charge to diffuse into the inner plate areas. The surface voltage must build up on the accessible plate areas before the inner areas begin to receive a charge. Surface voltage is what is measured by a voltmeter ... if charging ceases, the voltage differential inside a battery will slowly equalize until the battery reaches an internal equilibrium, known as an open circuit state." The point is, if you read the voltage immediately after removing the charger, all you're reading is an artifact of the recent charge; you learn nothing about the state of charge. I should have been buying lotto tickets all these years. With frequent checks of battery electrolyte level, quarterly checks of specific gravity with a hydrometer, and periodic terminal cleaning I thought I could trust my voltmeter. Come to discover that my track record of never being stuck without battery power is nothing but dumb luck. No, it sounds like you;ve been doing all the right things. However, reading the voltage immediately after turning off the charger has been a waste of time. |
#4
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On Sun, 23 May 2004 15:56:34 GMT, "Ernie"
wrote: I shall try again. My boat's gauge and my garmin 220 fishfinder both read 14.8. Is this too high and should I be concerned? ======================================== Yes it's too high. Check you're batteries after you've been running for a while. If there are gas bubbles around the battery plates and/or low electrolyte levels you should be concerned. 14.8 volts will cause a great deal of electrolyte loss and plate damage if applied for an extended period of time. It can also damage other electrical and electronic devices if they are sensitive to high voltage. Several years ago I had an issue with failing electric fuel pumps on my generator. The problem was eventually traced to a defective voltage regulator which was causing the generator battery to charge at 14.6 volts. It took 3 fuel pumps and a lot of aggravation before the problem was fixed. |
#5
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Let me clarify my 14.8 situation. I do have a new 90HP Merc outboard and
battery purchased last June and the battery was fully charged when I got that reading. Does that justify that type of reading and is there anything I can do without pulling the boat out water? "Wayne.B" wrote in message ... On Sun, 23 May 2004 15:56:34 GMT, "Ernie" wrote: I shall try again. My boat's gauge and my garmin 220 fishfinder both read 14.8. Is this too high and should I be concerned? ======================================== Yes it's too high. Check you're batteries after you've been running for a while. If there are gas bubbles around the battery plates and/or low electrolyte levels you should be concerned. 14.8 volts will cause a great deal of electrolyte loss and plate damage if applied for an extended period of time. It can also damage other electrical and electronic devices if they are sensitive to high voltage. Several years ago I had an issue with failing electric fuel pumps on my generator. The problem was eventually traced to a defective voltage regulator which was causing the generator battery to charge at 14.6 volts. It took 3 fuel pumps and a lot of aggravation before the problem was fixed. |
#6
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![]() "Ernie" wrote in message ... Let me clarify my 14.8 situation. I do have a new 90HP Merc outboard and battery purchased last June and the battery was fully charged when I got that reading. Does that justify that type of reading and is there anything I can do without pulling the boat out water? Ernie, Did you measure 14.8 volts with the engine running or off? If off, for how long did the battery sit without running the engine? I suspect you are going to say you measured it with the engine running. If so, that voltage would not surprise me. To put your fears at rest, call the dealer or a qualified Merc tech and get an answer from them rather than listening to us old farts argue about batteries. ![]() Eisboch |
#7
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![]() "Eisboch" wrote in message .. . "Ernie" wrote in message ... Let me clarify my 14.8 situation. I do have a new 90HP Merc outboard and battery purchased last June and the battery was fully charged when I got that reading. Does that justify that type of reading and is there anything I can do without pulling the boat out water? Ernie, Did you measure 14.8 volts with the engine running or off? If off, for how long did the battery sit without running the engine? I suspect you are going to say you measured it with the engine running. If so, that voltage would not surprise me. To put your fears at rest, call the dealer or a qualified Merc tech and get an answer from them rather than listening to us old farts argue about batteries. ![]() Eisboch You are right. The engine was running. As you suggested, I will call my qualified Merc tech tomorrow morning to get the right stuff though I suspect you might be right. Thanks for the information. |
#8
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I shall try again.
My boat's gauge and my garmin 220 fishfinder both read 14.8. Is this too high and should I be concerned? When does it read 14.8? When the alternator is running? Your voltmeter will read at a higher number than the battery's state of charge when there is current from the alternator present. You won't get a reading that reflects only the battery voltage until you have discoed the charger or alternator current. |
#9
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![]() "Gould 0738" wrote in message ... I shall try again. My boat's gauge and my garmin 220 fishfinder both read 14.8. Is this too high and should I be concerned? When does it read 14.8? When the alternator is running? Your voltmeter will read at a higher number than the battery's state of charge when there is current from the alternator present. You won't get a reading that reflects only the battery voltage until you have discoed the charger or alternator current. Now wait a minute there Gould! First of all - if the poster is talking about an outboard - particularly an older outboard, and he is talking about voltage when the engine is running, the 14.8 volts might be very typical. Not ideal, but common with outboard charging systems. Voltage regulation is often very loosey -goosey on some outboards. But, my main question is: Could you please elaborate on your comment, "Your voltmeter will read at a higher number than the battery's state of charge when there is current from the alternator present." I hope you mean to the limit set by the voltage regulator. If for some other reason, please explain. Eisboch |
#10
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On Sun, 23 May 2004 13:54:06 -0400, "Eisboch"
wrote: "Gould 0738" wrote in message ... I shall try again. My boat's gauge and my garmin 220 fishfinder both read 14.8. Is this too high and should I be concerned? When does it read 14.8? When the alternator is running? Your voltmeter will read at a higher number than the battery's state of charge when there is current from the alternator present. You won't get a reading that reflects only the battery voltage until you have discoed the charger or alternator current. Now wait a minute there Gould! First of all - if the poster is talking about an outboard - particularly an older outboard, and he is talking about voltage when the engine is running, the 14.8 volts might be very typical. Not ideal, but common with outboard charging systems. Voltage regulation is often very loosey -goosey on some outboards. Not that this has anything to do with charging via a small outboard, but if we change the topic to a battery charger or regulator with remote sensing, it could be entirely fine and normal that a fish finder or the boat's voltmeter reads 14.8. It all depends on where the readings are taking place (closer in the circuit to the charger or to the battery) and how much voltage drop there is betweent the charger/regulator and the battery. Steve |
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