Few more technical questions on my new 2005 Bayliner 175 Capri 3.0/A-1

1)
The trim gauge on the dash doesn't read quite right when trim all the way
down.
When lower unit is extended all the way down, the gauge show about an 1/8
inch higher than the mark for full down. Likewise, at full up, the gage is
off the
scale past the full up mark by about 1/8 inch. I read the adjustment
procedure,
but the sensor is at its full travel in the screw slots, and can't go no
more. I
wonder what it would take to calibrate the trim gage so that its right on. I
wonder if I can pad the gauge with a resistor to properly calibrate it. (I'm
very
well versed in electronics) Or is it no real big deal for the gage to be
off ?

2) max trim limit: This boat has a 3-way rocker for trim (and trailer), and
that's all fine. But after reading the manual, it says that when max up
trim
limit is reached (and it cuts out), that the cylinders should be set to 20
3/4".
On mine, its exactly 20 1/4". Could this be more of a "boat-specific"
setting rather than a standard Alpha-1 setting? Again, no real issues with
trim, and I don't really need it to go any higher that what's its set for,
just
wondering about this.

3) Dash lights: look real nice with them bright green backlit gauges and
all, but they leave this horable reflection in the windshield such that you
can not see out the windshield when driving out at night in the pitch black.
Is there a way to dim them, tone them down, or shut them off ?

Thanks!

"Mr Wizzard" wrote in message
...
Few more technical questions on my new 2005 Bayliner 175 Capri 3.0/A-1

1)
The trim gauge on the dash doesn't read quite right when trim all the way
down.
When lower unit is extended all the way down, the gauge show about an 1/8
inch higher than the mark for full down. Likewise, at full up, the gage
is
off the
scale past the full up mark by about 1/8 inch. I read the adjustment
procedure,
but the sensor is at its full travel in the screw slots, and can't go no
more. I
wonder what it would take to calibrate the trim gage so that its right on.
I
wonder if I can pad the gauge with a resistor to properly calibrate it.
(I'm
very
well versed in electronics) Or is it no real big deal for the gage to be
off ?

2) max trim limit: This boat has a 3-way rocker for trim (and trailer),
and
that's all fine. But after reading the manual, it says that when max up
trim
limit is reached (and it cuts out), that the cylinders should be set to 20
3/4".
On mine, its exactly 20 1/4". Could this be more of a "boat-specific"
setting rather than a standard Alpha-1 setting? Again, no real issues
with
trim, and I don't really need it to go any higher that what's its set for,
just
wondering about this.

3) Dash lights: look real nice with them bright green backlit gauges and
all, but they leave this horable reflection in the windshield such that
you
can not see out the windshield when driving out at night in the pitch
black.
Is there a way to dim them, tone them down, or shut them off ?

Thanks!




1. I would guess the dealer can correct this with a simple adjustment.

2. Again, have the dealer correct. A simple adjustments on the limit
switch..

3. You should be able to install a dimmer switch (in line) to the dash
lights to allow you to manually dim them..

I never though of adding a dimmer switch. Let us know if it works. The view
from my 1950CL is also blocked by the instrument reflections at night: I
spend most of the night standing up so that I can see where I'm going.
I did add a small red light over the row of switches for Nav lights, Anchor
light, Vent, Bilge and Accessory so that I can see the switches to select
the right one. I added a utility outlet on the port side of the instrument
panel and use a short, flexible light with red lens for making logbook
entries.
I also added a utility outlet aft of the starboard port side seats; comes in
handy for a spotlight.
I use the Accessory switch to control a couple of courtesy lights mounted
about 2" above the deck. One on the base of the instrument pedestal, one on
the port seat box. They come in handy when unloading in the dark.

"Mr Wizzard" wrote in message
...
Few more technical questions on my new 2005 Bayliner 175 Capri 3.0/A-1

1)
The trim gauge on the dash doesn't read quite right when trim all the way
down.
When lower unit is extended all the way down, the gauge show about an 1/8
inch higher than the mark for full down. Likewise, at full up, the gage
is
off the
scale past the full up mark by about 1/8 inch. I read the adjustment
procedure,
but the sensor is at its full travel in the screw slots, and can't go no
more. I
wonder what it would take to calibrate the trim gage so that its right on.
I
wonder if I can pad the gauge with a resistor to properly calibrate it.
(I'm
very
well versed in electronics) Or is it no real big deal for the gage to be
off ?

2) max trim limit: This boat has a 3-way rocker for trim (and trailer),
and
that's all fine. But after reading the manual, it says that when max up
trim
limit is reached (and it cuts out), that the cylinders should be set to 20
3/4".
On mine, its exactly 20 1/4". Could this be more of a "boat-specific"
setting rather than a standard Alpha-1 setting? Again, no real issues
with
trim, and I don't really need it to go any higher that what's its set for,
just
wondering about this.

3) Dash lights: look real nice with them bright green backlit gauges and
all, but they leave this horable reflection in the windshield such that
you
can not see out the windshield when driving out at night in the pitch
black.
Is there a way to dim them, tone them down, or shut them off ?

Thanks!

"William Andersen" wrote in message
news:6fKxe.2300$HV1.903@fed1read07...
I never though of adding a dimmer switch. Let us know if it works. The
view
from my 1950CL is also blocked by the instrument reflections at night: I
spend most of the night standing up so that I can see where I'm going.
I did add a small red light over the row of switches for Nav lights,
Anchor
light, Vent, Bilge and Accessory so that I can see the switches to select
the right one. I added a utility outlet on the port side of the instrument
panel and use a short, flexible light with red lens for making logbook
entries.
I also added a utility outlet aft of the starboard port side seats; comes
in
handy for a spotlight.
I use the Accessory switch to control a couple of courtesy lights mounted
about 2" above the deck. One on the base of the instrument pedestal, one
on
the port seat box. They come in handy when unloading in the dark.

What kind of "utility lights" ? thats actually a good idea. I'll get you
know what I come up with on the dimmer switch. What I thought
about doing as a quick fix is, to move the wire on the nav light/anchor
light switch. On this boat, its a 3-way switch: down for anchor light,
up for anchor light, nav light, and dash lights. (center off) So I can
move the wire so that down is everything except dash lights, and up
it everything. Only problem is that I won't have anchor light only,
and when running at speed I won't have any dash lights (which I
don't really need). I'll go to the auto parts store tomorrow and see
if I can find a conventional auto headlight switch: pull on parking,
pull again headlights, and rotate for reostat dash light dimmer.

Thanks.




"Mr Wizzard" wrote in message
...
Few more technical questions on my new 2005 Bayliner 175 Capri 3.0/A-1

1)
The trim gauge on the dash doesn't read quite right when trim all the
way
down.
When lower unit is extended all the way down, the gauge show about an
1/8
inch higher than the mark for full down. Likewise, at full up, the gage
is
off the
scale past the full up mark by about 1/8 inch. I read the adjustment
procedure,
but the sensor is at its full travel in the screw slots, and can't go no
more. I
wonder what it would take to calibrate the trim gage so that its right
on.
I
wonder if I can pad the gauge with a resistor to properly calibrate it.
(I'm
very
well versed in electronics) Or is it no real big deal for the gage to
be
off ?

2) max trim limit: This boat has a 3-way rocker for trim (and trailer),
and
that's all fine. But after reading the manual, it says that when max up
trim
limit is reached (and it cuts out), that the cylinders should be set to
20
3/4".
On mine, its exactly 20 1/4". Could this be more of a "boat-specific"
setting rather than a standard Alpha-1 setting? Again, no real issues
with
trim, and I don't really need it to go any higher that what's its set
for,
just
wondering about this.

3) Dash lights: look real nice with them bright green backlit gauges
and
all, but they leave this horable reflection in the windshield such that
you
can not see out the windshield when driving out at night in the pitch
black.
Is there a way to dim them, tone them down, or shut them off ?

Thanks!

Any quality problems with your boat? I noticed they are the cheapest
boats for sale at the boat shows

Few little minor things, but not really quality related.
This is a high-value package bar none, I'll say that much.
The 3.0L Alpha one is a bullet proof power plant,
the material on the seats is much thicker, and its a
very good looking "sturdy" package. For 10 grand
there is no way you can go wrong with this one.


"Timbo" wrote in message
oups.com...
Any quality problems with your boat? I noticed they are the cheapest
boats for sale at the boat shows

Yep, for 10k and a warranty you get a new boat. It's a win/win thing.

"Mr Wizzard" wrote in message
...
Few little minor things, but not really quality related.
This is a high-value package bar none, I'll say that much.
The 3.0L Alpha one is a bullet proof power plant,
the material on the seats is much thicker, and its a
very good looking "sturdy" package. For 10 grand
there is no way you can go wrong with this one.


"Timbo" wrote in message
oups.com...
Any quality problems with your boat? I noticed they are the cheapest
boats for sale at the boat shows

That's one of the reasons I bought my 19' bow rider 8 years ago!
As for the lights I added:
The utility outlet by the AM/FM radio is the one that comes with a chart
light/cigarette lighter. I use the outlet with a 12" long neck map light; I
added red cellophane under the lens for making logbook entries.
The outlet in the rear, for the spotlight, is a cheapie from Wal-Mart. I put
a glow in the dark sticker on the flap-like cover of the outlet to make it
easy to find at night.
The courtesy lights were cheapies from Wal-Mart, too; the housing is
shielded, so the light is directed out and down - not up. Same for the light
I added over the switches, although I added red cellophane to that and also
had to add a strip of tape over part of the lens so that the light is only
directed down on the instrument panel.

"Woodchuck" wrote in message
.. .
Yep, for 10k and a warranty you get a new boat. It's a win/win thing.

"Mr Wizzard" wrote in message
...
Few little minor things, but not really quality related.
This is a high-value package bar none, I'll say that much.
The 3.0L Alpha one is a bullet proof power plant,
the material on the seats is much thicker, and its a
very good looking "sturdy" package. For 10 grand
there is no way you can go wrong with this one.


"Timbo" wrote in message
oups.com...
Any quality problems with your boat? I noticed they are the cheapest
boats for sale at the boat shows

Around 7/2/2005 11:02 PM, Mr Wizzard wrote:

What kind of "utility lights" ? thats actually a good idea. I'll get you
know what I come up with on the dimmer switch. What I thought
about doing as a quick fix is, to move the wire on the nav light/anchor
light switch. On this boat, its a 3-way switch: down for anchor light,
up for anchor light, nav light, and dash lights. (center off) So I can
move the wire so that down is everything except dash lights, and up
it everything. Only problem is that I won't have anchor light only,
and when running at speed I won't have any dash lights (which I
don't really need).

How about moving the dash lights to their own dimmer switch? That way,
you have the three position switch be "Anchor | Off | Nav + Anchor" and
a completely separate control for the dash lights.

I'll go to the auto parts store tomorrow and see
if I can find a conventional auto headlight switch: pull on parking,
pull again headlights, and rotate for reostat dash light dimmer.

That'd be neat. Only problem might be that most headlight switches use a
funky plug to plug into a vehicle's wiring harness. You probably can get
the plug separately, but for all the trouble that is, you might as well
just split off the dash lights and add a single rheostat.


--
~/Garth - 1966 Glastron V-142 Skiflite: "Blue-Boat"
"There is nothing - absolutely nothing - half so much worth doing
as simply messing about in boats."
-Kenneth Grahame, The Wind in the Willows

Mr Wizzard wrote:

Few more technical questions on my new 2005 Bayliner 175 Capri 3.0/A-1

1)
The trim gauge on the dash doesn't read quite right when trim all the way
down.
When lower unit is extended all the way down, the gauge show about an 1/8
inch higher than the mark for full down. Likewise, at full up, the gage is
off the
scale past the full up mark by about 1/8 inch. I read the adjustment
procedure,
but the sensor is at its full travel in the screw slots, and can't go no
more. I
wonder what it would take to calibrate the trim gage so that its right on. I
wonder if I can pad the gauge with a resistor to properly calibrate it. (I'm
very
well versed in electronics) Or is it no real big deal for the gage to be
off ?

2) max trim limit: This boat has a 3-way rocker for trim (and trailer), and
that's all fine. But after reading the manual, it says that when max up
trim
limit is reached (and it cuts out), that the cylinders should be set to 20
3/4".
On mine, its exactly 20 1/4". Could this be more of a "boat-specific"
setting rather than a standard Alpha-1 setting? Again, no real issues with
trim, and I don't really need it to go any higher that what's its set for,
just
wondering about this.

3) Dash lights: look real nice with them bright green backlit gauges and
all, but they leave this horable reflection in the windshield such that you
can not see out the windshield when driving out at night in the pitch black.
Is there a way to dim them, tone them down, or shut them off ?

Thanks!

(I'm
very
well versed in electronics) HaHa Dummy up Dude.