Help wit OMC Cobra Shifting
 

I'm considering the purchase of a '90 17' I/O with an OMC
Cobra. Boat has not been used for 2 seasons and wasn't
really "winterized" after last use. Have already resolved a
number of ignition and fuel problems. Motor now runs well.

It will not shift to Neutral or Reverse (prop runs in
forward at all times). Control, cabling, and linkage
mounted to motor all appear to be behaving as they should.
While running at idle, if I gently start forcing it toward
Reverse, the engine will start to act as though it's getting
a heavy load (RPM drops). No grinding or other abnormal
noises. Didn't want to press the issue for fear of further
damage.

I have the Clymer manual for it, and don't mind digging in,
but never having had a drive apart before, am a little
daunted by what I'm facing.

I'm open to any suggestions or insight that may serve to
further diagnose the problem or perhaps resolve it without
having to tear down the drive.

Thanks
--
Mark


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"Mark" wrote in message
h.net...
I'm considering the purchase of a '90 17' I/O with an OMC
Cobra. Boat has not been used for 2 seasons and wasn't
really "winterized" after last use.

It will not shift to Neutral or Reverse (prop runs in
forward at all times). Control, cabling, and linkage
mounted to motor all appear to be behaving as they should.
While running at idle, if I gently start forcing it toward
Reverse, the engine will start to act as though it's getting
a heavy load (RPM drops). No grinding or other abnormal
noises.


It sounds like the shift interrupter switch and electronic module are
working correctly. Your shift cable to the outdrive, the bell-crank linkage,
or the vertical shift rod in the gearcase could be culprits if they are
sticky or frozen with corrosion. My guess would be a stuck vertical shift
rod. If so, the outdrive has to be removed and the upper and lower cases
taken apart to access the shift rod and bushing. Sometimes you can luck out
by removing the o-ring and cleaning out the corrosion. A new shift cover
will be of an improved design to minimize this sticking problem.

Get the factory manual and try to find a knowledgeable tech to help you with
this as it is not a job for an amateur and there have been a few changes and
updates since the 1990 manual was printed.

Bill Grannis
service manager

In article
,
says...

"Mark" wrote in message
h.net...
I'm considering the purchase of a '90 17' I/O with an OMC
Cobra. Boat has not been used for 2 seasons and wasn't
really "winterized" after last use.

It will not shift to Neutral or Reverse (prop runs in
forward at all times). Control, cabling, and linkage
mounted to motor all appear to be behaving as they should.
While running at idle, if I gently start forcing it toward
Reverse, the engine will start to act as though it's getting
a heavy load (RPM drops). No grinding or other abnormal
noises.


It sounds like the shift interrupter switch and electronic module are
working correctly. Your shift cable to the outdrive, the bell-crank linkage,
or the vertical shift rod in the gearcase could be culprits if they are
sticky or frozen with corrosion. My guess would be a stuck vertical shift
rod. If so, the outdrive has to be removed and the upper and lower cases
taken apart to access the shift rod and bushing. Sometimes you can luck out
by removing the o-ring and cleaning out the corrosion. A new shift cover
will be of an improved design to minimize this sticking problem.

Get the factory manual and try to find a knowledgeable tech to help you with
this as it is not a job for an amateur and there have been a few changes and
updates since the 1990 manual was printed.

Bill Grannis
service manager


Bill,

Thanks so much for the knowledgeable reply.

Since I posted, I've further investigated the problem (more
daylight). Although the Clymer manual leaves a lot to be
desired when it comes to detailed exploded drawings or
photos, I believe I've identified the problem.

The sheath of the shift cable is not attached to anything at
the stern drive end. Based on the drawings in the manual, I
believe it should be attached to the "shift cable retainer"
via the "shift cable guide" inside the "Pivot Housing". As
it is at the moment, the end of the red outer sheath of the
cable will be various distances from the exterior of the
Pivot Housing, depending on the position of the control
lever. Logic tells me that based on the movement of the
cable assembly, I can "pull" the shifter into Forward, but
can't "push" it into Reverse. Also, I've learned that I Can
get Neutral, but only with the stern drive tilted/trimmed
most of the way down. As it comes up, the cable gets
"pulled" (extended) and the drive will remain in Forward
only.

I believe I'll have to pull the stern drive to get to the
problem, but not actually take the drive apart, so based on
my reading, I think it may be something I can tackle. Is
there anything in particular I should be aware of or
prepared for?

The Clymer stresses using a hoist to support the drive
assembly. Is it that heavy, or just unwieldy?

Thanks again for your help.



--
Mark

Triple Z is spam control.

----- Original Message -----
From: "Mark"

Although the Clymer manual leaves a lot to be
desired when it comes to detailed exploded drawings or
photos, I believe I've identified the problem.

The sheath of the shift cable is not attached to anything at
the stern drive end. Based on the drawings in the manual, I
believe it should be attached to the "shift cable retainer"
via the "shift cable guide" inside the "Pivot Housing".


The cable sheath should be attached to a brass threaded piece that screws
into the bell housing, or pivot housing as OMC likes to call it. If you can
see the sheath move when you shift, then the cable is bad. Check everything
over carefully as you can have more than just one problem.

You can remove the outdrive but it is best to use 2 people, especially if
you can find someone who has done it before.

Get rid of the Clymer manual and order the factory one.

Bill Grannis
service manager

In article ,
says...


The cable sheath should be attached to a brass threaded piece that screws
into the bell housing, or pivot housing as OMC likes to call it. If you can
see the sheath move when you shift, then the cable is bad. Check everything
over carefully as you can have more than just one problem.

Sounds like time for a new cable.

Get rid of the Clymer manual and order the factory one.

I agree. I trust I can get it from OMC. If there's a
better source, please advise.

Thanks again for your excellent assistance.


Bill Grannis
service manager




--
Mark

Triple Z is spam control.

"Mark" wrote in message
th.net...
In article ,
says...


Get rid of the Clymer manual and order the factory one.



I agree. I trust I can get it from OMC. If there's a
better source, please advise.




For a factory manual go to:
http://ww3.kencook.com/evinrudejohns...manufactor=omc