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If you remove the plugs, they can tell you a lot about what's going on in
the engine. For example, one covered with black crud tells you that cylinder needs work (valves, guides, maybe rings, ... ) and that it's time to remove the head(s) and investigate further. "SupraMan" wrote in message oups.com... I had a tune-up done on it about a year ago. That included plugs, plug wires, distributor cap, and rotor. Years ago, I bought a kit that replaces points with an electronic unit. It doesn't replace the distributor, just the points. I bought a Holley carb kit and rebuilt it yesterday. No help. Probably 6 years ago, the fresh water pump's impeller basically fell apart. The boat overheated to the point that smoke was billowing out the exhaust. I can't remember exactly when it started running bad, but it was sometime after that happened (maybe the next summer). I'd think if I had hurt a head gasket or warped a head, I'd have had problems soon after the time I overheated it, not a year later. I have checked the timing numerous times (maybe once per year). I can't check it now because I can't get it started. During the time I've been having problems with it, while running in the driveway the boat "lopes" like it has a big cam in it. I've been told that's an indication of a vacuum leak. That, combined with how it runs when cold, combined with how it's now blowing fuel & exhaust out the carb make friends of mine think its a head or head gasket problem. But there's not water in the oil. Could this still be my issue? |
Loping might indicate burnt valves ... a long ago best forgotten experience
with Firebird 400. "Bowgus" wrote in message ... If you remove the plugs, they can tell you a lot about what's going on in the engine. For example, one covered with black crud tells you that cylinder needs work (valves, guides, maybe rings, ... ) and that it's time to remove the head(s) and investigate further. "SupraMan" wrote in message oups.com... I had a tune-up done on it about a year ago. That included plugs, plug wires, distributor cap, and rotor. Years ago, I bought a kit that replaces points with an electronic unit. It doesn't replace the distributor, just the points. I bought a Holley carb kit and rebuilt it yesterday. No help. Probably 6 years ago, the fresh water pump's impeller basically fell apart. The boat overheated to the point that smoke was billowing out the exhaust. I can't remember exactly when it started running bad, but it was sometime after that happened (maybe the next summer). I'd think if I had hurt a head gasket or warped a head, I'd have had problems soon after the time I overheated it, not a year later. I have checked the timing numerous times (maybe once per year). I can't check it now because I can't get it started. During the time I've been having problems with it, while running in the driveway the boat "lopes" like it has a big cam in it. I've been told that's an indication of a vacuum leak. That, combined with how it runs when cold, combined with how it's now blowing fuel & exhaust out the carb make friends of mine think its a head or head gasket problem. But there's not water in the oil. Could this still be my issue? |
On Wed, 15 Jun 2005 18:49:39 -0400, "Bowgus"
wrote: Loping might indicate burnt valves ... a long ago best forgotten experience with Firebird 400. Good point. |
Woodchuck wrote: You got to do the basics first: compression and cylinder leakdown test check camshaft timing, chain maybe worn out and jumped. NOW you're on the right track. |
Woodchuck wrote: Yes it would if they are cross-firing. How? If gas is spraying back up through the carb, that would mean that the intake valve is at least slightly open while the piston is coming up. |
Bowgus wrote: Loping might indicate burnt valves ... a long ago best forgotten experience with Firebird 400. Ah, yes....the GM 400! |
The problem is that somewhere in your intake system there is a leak.
Heres how to test for it. Put the earmuffs on the engine have a can of starting fluid handy. While your attempting to start the engine, spray the starting fluid lightly into the carb to help it start. Once it starts, and is running, spray the starting fluid around the edge of the carb, and the intakes. Spray it on all surfaces on the top of the engine that are not electrical. When you hit the right spot, you will notice an instant rise in engine RPM. To confirm, simply spray that area again. Once located, you will know which gasket or part you will have to replace. Your simptoms are typical with an air leak in the intake causing a too lean condition. IMHO Jack wrote in message oups.com... Hello, I have an '88 Supra with a PCM Ford 351-Windsor engine. I've been having problems with the engine in my boat for a few years. For the first 20-30 minutes in the water, the thing runs like doo-doo. It spits & sputters and barely gets on plane. After a while, the engine gradually smoothes out. Eventually, the thing runs fine. I've tried many things, including replacing the coil, replacing the points with an electronic unit, replacing the fuel filter, and checking the fuel pump. I tried starting the boat for the first time since November. Now it won't start at all. Instead, fluid is being spit out of the carb. Also, while cranking, smoke (exhaust?) is coming out of the exhaust. Occasionally it tries to fire up, but just spits a lot of fluid (gas?) out. Does anyone have any ideas what's wrong? Thanks, Donald |
"Jack" wrote in message ink.net... The problem is that somewhere in your intake system there is a leak. Heres how to test for it. Put the earmuffs on the engine have a can of starting fluid handy. While your attempting to start the engine, spray the starting fluid lightly into the carb to help it start. Once it starts, and is running, spray the starting fluid around the edge of the carb, and the intakes. Spray it on all surfaces on the top of the engine that are not electrical. When you hit the right spot, you will notice an instant rise in engine RPM. To confirm, simply spray that area again. Once located, you will know which gasket or part you will have to replace. Your simptoms are typical with an air leak in the intake causing a too lean condition. IMHO Jack You can also do this with a can of propane and an old torch head with a section of host hooked to the top of if. Just screw off the flame head of the torch and connect the hose. This method will eliminate flammable fluids sitting on the engine (until they evaporate) and the good chance of a fire. If you do get flame flair up just turn off the torch head be sure to have the torch set to a very low flow. It works quite nicely. Good luck and make sure somebody is sitting next to the key just incase you need to shut it down right away. mark |
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