Rob,

Thanks a ton for the information. I tested the power pack and the
posts were in spec. 7-8 posts register 644 ohms. I also checked all
connections and electrical and everything seemed clean and tight.

With that all checked out is it safe to conclude the weak fire is the
stator? Or is there anything else I should check? The problem has
gotton worse. The motor has to really be spinning to fire. Took 2
batterys and a jump car to fire it off. Would a weak stator cause the
problem that need more rpms to fire? I know spec is about 350 rpm to
generate fire for this motor. New starter last season so its strong
cranking.

I got a reply post awhile back that the flywheel is keyed so removal
and replace isnt difficult as far as lining up crank no need to TDC it
all that. Is there any other parts I should consider replacing while
the flywheel is off. If you have part numbers that would be great.

MUCHO THANKS again for all your information and help

cheers,
Nathan

wrote:
Have a 1973 Johnson 115v4. She had a intermitted starting problem.
Replaced Starter and Solonoid
Last year we had the carbs rebuilt.

When shes running.. She runs great, smooth all that.. Its starting
thats the main problem.

Starting- If the battery is fully maxed on charge it will start. but
it has to be a really fresh new battery or maybe a 2nd. But when we
try to start it on the lake with a less than 100% fresh battery (say
90%).. It wont start unless we wait awhile or we connect a jumper. I
have sprayed starter fliud at these moments when it wont fire and
nothing. . I can pull a plug andits either weak or no fire. Last
season we connected 2 batterys together. This worked for awhile.. it
would start every time for a time. Now thats not working. And
sometimes now not even jumping isstarting it.

I was told by a shop mechanic its most likely a weak stator. And this
has the symptoms of that because it requires high cranking RPM for the
plugs to show fire.

Also been told it could be the power pack.


So Far my plan is to replace the stator to start with. Any way I can
test the power pack? I have a multimeter and some other tools.

Thanks



Before you go taking this all apart, check the resistance of the
sensor coils. Disconnect the leads (they are Black w/White & White
w/Black) from posts #2 & #4, and #9 & #12 of the power pack. They
should be 6-10 ohms, and not shorted to ground (~ ohms). The charge
coils are tested by checking the resistance of the brown &
brown/yellow
leads (terminals #7 & #8) for 550-700 ohms, and again no shorts to
ground.

I have not seen the sensor coils or charge coils fail nearly as much
as
the power packs. The power packs are available from NAPA or Sierra as
#18-5753 (needed for the first non-OEM replacement) with all the
hardware, #18-5756 w/o the hardware. If one or both of the sensors is
faulty, the timer base needs to be replaced, this is seperate from the
stator/charge coil assembly. The flywheel nut spec is 100-105 ft.
lbs.

What we've seen is that the power pack warms up in the sun while the
cover/hood is off, starting the engine and running fine, until the
next
cold start. Replacing the pack usually does the trick. Be sure EVERY
screw and terminal is clean and tight before re-attaching the battery
to
the outboard.


Good Luck!

Rob

I should also note we checked spark with a sparkplug light. No
fire/light unless that baby was really spinning.

Just a note

On Wed, 05 May 2004 15:26:37 GMT, wrote:

Rob,

Thanks a ton for the information. I tested the power pack and the
posts were in spec. 7-8 posts register 644 ohms. I also checked all
connections and electrical and everything seemed clean and tight.

With that all checked out is it safe to conclude the weak fire is the
stator? Or is there anything else I should check? The problem has
gotton worse. The motor has to really be spinning to fire. Took 2
batterys and a jump car to fire it off. Would a weak stator cause the
problem that need more rpms to fire? I know spec is about 350 rpm to
generate fire for this motor. New starter last season so its strong
cranking.

I got a reply post awhile back that the flywheel is keyed so removal
and replace isnt difficult as far as lining up crank no need to TDC it
all that. Is there any other parts I should consider replacing while
the flywheel is off. If you have part numbers that would be great.

MUCHO THANKS again for all your information and help

cheers,
Nathan

wrote:
Have a 1973 Johnson 115v4. She had a intermitted starting problem.
Replaced Starter and Solonoid
Last year we had the carbs rebuilt.

When shes running.. She runs great, smooth all that.. Its starting
thats the main problem.

Starting- If the battery is fully maxed on charge it will start. but
it has to be a really fresh new battery or maybe a 2nd. But when we
try to start it on the lake with a less than 100% fresh battery (say
90%).. It wont start unless we wait awhile or we connect a jumper. I
have sprayed starter fliud at these moments when it wont fire and
nothing. . I can pull a plug andits either weak or no fire. Last
season we connected 2 batterys together. This worked for awhile.. it
would start every time for a time. Now thats not working. And
sometimes now not even jumping isstarting it.

I was told by a shop mechanic its most likely a weak stator. And this
has the symptoms of that because it requires high cranking RPM for the
plugs to show fire.

Also been told it could be the power pack.


So Far my plan is to replace the stator to start with. Any way I can
test the power pack? I have a multimeter and some other tools.

Thanks



Before you go taking this all apart, check the resistance of the
sensor coils. Disconnect the leads (they are Black w/White & White
w/Black) from posts #2 & #4, and #9 & #12 of the power pack. They
should be 6-10 ohms, and not shorted to ground (~ ohms). The charge
coils are tested by checking the resistance of the brown &
brown/yellow
leads (terminals #7 & #8) for 550-700 ohms, and again no shorts to
ground.

I have not seen the sensor coils or charge coils fail nearly as much
as
the power packs. The power packs are available from NAPA or Sierra as
#18-5753 (needed for the first non-OEM replacement) with all the
hardware, #18-5756 w/o the hardware. If one or both of the sensors is
faulty, the timer base needs to be replaced, this is seperate from the
stator/charge coil assembly. The flywheel nut spec is 100-105 ft.
lbs.

What we've seen is that the power pack warms up in the sun while the
cover/hood is off, starting the engine and running fine, until the
next
cold start. Replacing the pack usually does the trick. Be sure EVERY
screw and terminal is clean and tight before re-attaching the battery
to
the outboard.


Good Luck!

Rob

wrote:
Rob,

Thanks a ton for the information. I tested the power pack and the
posts were in spec. 7-8 posts register 644 ohms. I also checked all
connections and electrical and everything seemed clean and tight.

With that all checked out is it safe to conclude the weak fire is the
stator? Or is there anything else I should check? The problem has
gotton worse. The motor has to really be spinning to fire. Took 2
batterys and a jump car to fire it off. Would a weak stator cause the
problem that need more rpms to fire? I know spec is about 350 rpm to
generate fire for this motor. New starter last season so its strong
cranking.

I got a reply post awhile back that the flywheel is keyed so removal
and replace isnt difficult as far as lining up crank no need to TDC it
all that. Is there any other parts I should consider replacing while
the flywheel is off. If you have part numbers that would be great.

MUCHO THANKS again for all your information and help

cheers,
Nathan


Nathan, you've already checked the check the resistance of the charge
coils, now check the sensor coils. Disconnect the leads (they are Black
w/White & White w/Black) from posts #2 & #4, and #9 & #12 of the power
pack. They should be 6-10 ohms, and not shorted to ground (~ ohms).

The charge coils you tested by checking the resistance of the brown &
brown/yellow leads (terminals #7 & #8) for 550-700 ohms, and again no
shorts to ground, sounds good.

AGAIN, You are still facing replacing the power pack... THIS NOW APPEARS
to be your problem... there really is not a bench test for the pack,
only to check all the other components and eliminate. I have not seen
the sensor coils or charge coils fail nearly as much as the power packs.
The power packs are available from NAPA or Sierra as #18-5753 (needed
for the first non-OEM replacement) with all the hardware, #18-5756 w/o
the hardware. If one or both of the sensors is faulty, the timer base
needs to be replaced, this is seperate from the stator/charge coil
assembly. The flywheel nut spec is 100-105 ft. lbs... but so far
everything checks out for you under the flywheel.

Rob