1954 Evinrude 25hp Wiring
 

Just acqired a 1954 Evinrude 25hp outboard with no spark at the plugs.
The wiring harness hanging from the engine has 4 wires. 1) Positive
starter lead, 2) ground lead, 3) wire conecting to the choke solenoid,
4) wire connecting to a gear that has a cable attached to it that goes
up under the flywheel (either timing adjustment or linkage to the
carb).
My question is ... Do either wires 3 or 4 needs to be connected to
something to complete the circuit for the points to send current to
the plugs?
I attached starter lead to positive and ground lead to negative and
starter spins right away, but no spark.
Thanks for the help.
kj

1954 Evinrude 25hp Wiring
 

The wire going under the flywheel is the ignition kill switch. There will
be no spark if this is connected to ground. If it is not connected to
ground and there is no spark , then it's time to check the ignition points,
coil and condenser.

Don Dando


"Jak" wrote in message
om...
Just acqired a 1954 Evinrude 25hp outboard with no spark at the plugs.
The wiring harness hanging from the engine has 4 wires. 1) Positive
starter lead, 2) ground lead, 3) wire conecting to the choke solenoid,
4) wire connecting to a gear that has a cable attached to it that goes
up under the flywheel (either timing adjustment or linkage to the
carb).
My question is ... Do either wires 3 or 4 needs to be connected to
something to complete the circuit for the points to send current to
the plugs?
I attached starter lead to positive and ground lead to negative and
starter spins right away, but no spark.
Thanks for the help.
kj

1954 Evinrude 25hp Wiring
 

Jak wrote:
Just acqired a 1954 Evinrude 25hp outboard with no spark at the plugs.
The wiring harness hanging from the engine has 4 wires. 1) Positive
starter lead, 2) ground lead, 3) wire conecting to the choke solenoid,
4) wire connecting to a gear that has a cable attached to it that goes
up under the flywheel (either timing adjustment or linkage to the
carb).
My question is ... Do either wires 3 or 4 needs to be connected to
something to complete the circuit for the points to send current to
the plugs?
I attached starter lead to positive and ground lead to negative and
starter spins right away, but no spark.
Thanks for the help.
kj

There should be two black wires going up into the stator plate if this
is a forward control motor, one to the harness and then the other to the
vacuum cut-out switch then to the harness, or one if it is a tiller
motor, to the vacuum cut-out switch. To shut off the forward control
motor, the two are shorted to each other, on the tiller, you twist all
the way down to stop.

To run, no wires to the stator should be contacting ground.

Check points(OMC# 580148), condensers(OMC# 580321), and coils(OMC#
582995). All parts are readily available if needed. Even with new
points, at this age, the coils are probably cracked and/or leaking(HV)
pretty bad and the condensors have broken down.

Rob

1954 Evinrude 25hp Wiring
 

There should be two black wires going up into the stator plate if this
is a forward control motor, one to the harness and then the other to the
vacuum cut-out switch then to the harness, or one if it is a tiller
motor, to the vacuum cut-out switch. To shut off the forward control
motor, the two are shorted to each other, on the tiller, you twist all
the way down to stop.

To run, no wires to the stator should be contacting ground.

Check points(OMC# 580148), condensers(OMC# 580321), and coils(OMC#
582995). All parts are readily available if needed. Even with new
points, at this age, the coils are probably cracked and/or leaking(HV)
pretty bad and the condensors have broken down.

Rob

I have a wire from the vacuum cut-out going up under the flywheel,
thats it.
You hit the nail on the head, the coils are cracked plently with the
hard casing just peeling off the coils. Any chance of replacing the
points/condensors with an electronic system?
JK

1954 Evinrude 25hp Wiring
 

Jak wrote:

There should be two black wires going up into the stator plate if this
is a forward control motor, one to the harness and then the other to the
vacuum cut-out switch then to the harness, or one if it is a tiller
motor, to the vacuum cut-out switch. To shut off the forward control
motor, the two are shorted to each other, on the tiller, you twist all
the way down to stop.

To run, no wires to the stator should be contacting ground.

Check points(OMC# 580148), condensers(OMC# 580321), and coils(OMC#
582995). All parts are readily available if needed. Even with new
points, at this age, the coils are probably cracked and/or leaking(HV)
pretty bad and the condensors have broken down.

Rob


I have a wire from the vacuum cut-out going up under the flywheel,
thats it.
You hit the nail on the head, the coils are cracked plently with the
hard casing just peeling off the coils. Any chance of replacing the
points/condensors with an electronic system?
JK

http://tinyurl.com/26mf4

You can request part #18-5101 at NAPA, this is a kit with 2 modules and
all the hardware. The list price is about $55.00, $40.00 on the street
if you do a web search for "Sierra 18-5101". You should carry a spare
module nearby if you go this route (18-5100). I like the points on
small engines, though, as they can be adjusted/repaired/replaced on the
water with a minimum of work. They can usually be adjusted or cleaned
enough to get you back to the dock.

Rob