Brakes on boat trailer
 

In this area, a trailer up to 2000 is not required to have brakes.
I see Chrysler is recommending trailer breaks if the load exceeds 1000
pounds.
The sailboat I will be purchasing this spring will weigh 1200 + 300 or so
for the trailer + another 100 for motor/fuel
etc. That will be slightly over the 75% of max trailer towing capacity for
my mini-van... so I'm wondering if I should add brakes to a new galvanized
trailer.
I'm assuming surge type, stainless steel disc brakes are the way to go.

Brakes on boat trailer
 

If you are buying a new trailer to begin with - definetly get the brakes and
your right on the disk surge.
If it is used, I personally would not worry about towing that much weight
without brakes. Just be careful and make sure you have plenty of room to
stop. However, I think you may be under-estimating the trailer weight.
Probably more in the 500 to 700 lb range. Tires, axles, and all that steal
weight quite a bit.

--
Tony
My boats and autos - http://t.thomas.home.mchsi.com



"Don White" wrote in message
...
In this area, a trailer up to 2000 is not required to have brakes.
I see Chrysler is recommending trailer breaks if the load exceeds 1000
pounds.
The sailboat I will be purchasing this spring will weigh 1200 + 300 or so
for the trailer + another 100 for motor/fuel
etc. That will be slightly over the 75% of max trailer towing capacity
for
my mini-van... so I'm wondering if I should add brakes to a new galvanized
trailer.
I'm assuming surge type, stainless steel disc brakes are the way to go.

Brakes on boat trailer
 

"Don White" wrote in message
...
In this area, a trailer up to 2000 is not required to have brakes.
I see Chrysler is recommending trailer breaks if the load exceeds 1000
pounds.
The sailboat I will be purchasing this spring will weigh 1200 + 300 or so
for the trailer + another 100 for motor/fuel
etc. That will be slightly over the 75% of max trailer towing capacity
for
my mini-van... so I'm wondering if I should add brakes to a new galvanized
trailer.
I'm assuming surge type, stainless steel disc brakes are the way to go.



Your trailer, unless aluminum is going to be closer to 600#. My tandem axle
EZ-loader scales 1100#. Get brakes! You always have people cutting in
front of you and slowing down. You gve yourself extra stopping distance and
other drivers see it as a good place to cut in and then they slow down.
Disk brakes are the type you want. I changed from drum's 2 years ago, and
the trailer still stops like new and the brakes look like new. Easy if in
salt to take the hose and wash the whole assembly with fresh water when
done.
Bill

Brakes on boat trailer
 

On Sun, 21 Mar 2004 18:20:24 GMT, "Calif Bill"
wrote:


"Don White" wrote in message
...
In this area, a trailer up to 2000 is not required to have brakes.
I see Chrysler is recommending trailer breaks if the load exceeds 1000
pounds.
The sailboat I will be purchasing this spring will weigh 1200 + 300 or so
for the trailer + another 100 for motor/fuel
etc. That will be slightly over the 75% of max trailer towing capacity
for
my mini-van... so I'm wondering if I should add brakes to a new galvanized
trailer.
I'm assuming surge type, stainless steel disc brakes are the way to go.



Your trailer, unless aluminum is going to be closer to 600#. My tandem axle
EZ-loader scales 1100#. Get brakes! You always have people cutting in
front of you and slowing down. You gve yourself extra stopping distance and
other drivers see it as a good place to cut in and then they slow down.
Disk brakes are the type you want. I changed from drum's 2 years ago, and
the trailer still stops like new and the brakes look like new. Easy if in
salt to take the hose and wash the whole assembly with fresh water when
done.
Bill


Hey Bill, where did you get your discs? I have to put new brakes on my
trailer, and it sounds like discs are the way to go. Any info would be
appreciated. Thanks.

John H

On the 'Poco Loco' out of Deale, MD
on the beautiful Chesapeake Bay!

Brakes on boat trailer
 

"John H" wrote in message
...
On Sun, 21 Mar 2004 18:20:24 GMT, "Calif Bill"
wrote:


"Don White" wrote in message
...
In this area, a trailer up to 2000 is not required to have brakes.
I see Chrysler is recommending trailer breaks if the load exceeds 1000
pounds.
The sailboat I will be purchasing this spring will weigh 1200 + 300 or
so
for the trailer + another 100 for motor/fuel
etc. That will be slightly over the 75% of max trailer towing
capacity
for
my mini-van... so I'm wondering if I should add brakes to a new
galvanized
trailer.
I'm assuming surge type, stainless steel disc brakes are the way to go.



Your trailer, unless aluminum is going to be closer to 600#. My tandem
axle
EZ-loader scales 1100#. Get brakes! You always have people cutting in
front of you and slowing down. You gve yourself extra stopping distance
and
other drivers see it as a good place to cut in and then they slow down.
Disk brakes are the type you want. I changed from drum's 2 years ago,
and
the trailer still stops like new and the brakes look like new. Easy if
in
salt to take the hose and wash the whole assembly with fresh water when
done.
Bill


Hey Bill, where did you get your discs? I have to put new brakes on my
trailer, and it sounds like discs are the way to go. Any info would be
appreciated. Thanks.

John H

On the 'Poco Loco' out of Deale, MD
on the beautiful Chesapeake Bay!

I run Kodiak brakes. I got them at Century Wheel and Rim. Century has
distribution warehouses around the country. Google them for your closest
location. I run the E-coated caliper and rotor, but they now have
stainless.
Bill

Brakes on boat trailer
 

On Sun, 21 Mar 2004 20:55:26 GMT, "Calif Bill"
wrote:


"John H" wrote in message
.. .
On Sun, 21 Mar 2004 18:20:24 GMT, "Calif Bill"
wrote:


"Don White" wrote in message
...
In this area, a trailer up to 2000 is not required to have brakes.
I see Chrysler is recommending trailer breaks if the load exceeds 1000
pounds.
The sailboat I will be purchasing this spring will weigh 1200 + 300 or
so
for the trailer + another 100 for motor/fuel
etc. That will be slightly over the 75% of max trailer towing
capacity
for
my mini-van... so I'm wondering if I should add brakes to a new
galvanized
trailer.
I'm assuming surge type, stainless steel disc brakes are the way to go.



Your trailer, unless aluminum is going to be closer to 600#. My tandem
axle
EZ-loader scales 1100#. Get brakes! You always have people cutting in
front of you and slowing down. You gve yourself extra stopping distance
and
other drivers see it as a good place to cut in and then they slow down.
Disk brakes are the type you want. I changed from drum's 2 years ago,
and
the trailer still stops like new and the brakes look like new. Easy if
in
salt to take the hose and wash the whole assembly with fresh water when
done.
Bill


Hey Bill, where did you get your discs? I have to put new brakes on my
trailer, and it sounds like discs are the way to go. Any info would be
appreciated. Thanks.

John H

On the 'Poco Loco' out of Deale, MD
on the beautiful Chesapeake Bay!

I run Kodiak brakes. I got them at Century Wheel and Rim. Century has
distribution warehouses around the country. Google them for your closest
location. I run the E-coated caliper and rotor, but they now have
stainless.
Bill

That was fast! Thanks much. Did you do the work yourself? If so, how
difficult was the job.

John H

On the 'Poco Loco' out of Deale, MD
on the beautiful Chesapeake Bay!

Brakes on boat trailer
 

"John H" wrote in message
...
On Sun, 21 Mar 2004 20:55:26 GMT, "Calif Bill"
wrote:


"John H" wrote in message
.. .
On Sun, 21 Mar 2004 18:20:24 GMT, "Calif Bill"
wrote:


"Don White" wrote in message
...
In this area, a trailer up to 2000 is not required to have brakes.
I see Chrysler is recommending trailer breaks if the load exceeds
1000
pounds.
The sailboat I will be purchasing this spring will weigh 1200 + 300
or
so
for the trailer + another 100 for motor/fuel
etc. That will be slightly over the 75% of max trailer towing
capacity
for
my mini-van... so I'm wondering if I should add brakes to a new
galvanized
trailer.
I'm assuming surge type, stainless steel disc brakes are the way to
go.



Your trailer, unless aluminum is going to be closer to 600#. My
tandem
axle
EZ-loader scales 1100#. Get brakes! You always have people cutting
in
front of you and slowing down. You gve yourself extra stopping
distance
and
other drivers see it as a good place to cut in and then they slow
down.
Disk brakes are the type you want. I changed from drum's 2 years ago,
and
the trailer still stops like new and the brakes look like new. Easy
if
in
salt to take the hose and wash the whole assembly with fresh water
when
done.
Bill


Hey Bill, where did you get your discs? I have to put new brakes on my
trailer, and it sounds like discs are the way to go. Any info would be
appreciated. Thanks.

John H

On the 'Poco Loco' out of Deale, MD
on the beautiful Chesapeake Bay!

I run Kodiak brakes. I got them at Century Wheel and Rim. Century has
distribution warehouses around the country. Google them for your closest
location. I run the E-coated caliper and rotor, but they now have
stainless.
Bill

That was fast! Thanks much. Did you do the work yourself? If so, how
difficult was the job.

John H

On the 'Poco Loco' out of Deale, MD
on the beautiful Chesapeake Bay!

Took me maybe 4 hours total. That was because I went to buy another master
cylinder as the original was rusty when I went to remove the residual valve.
Since then I replaced the coupler with a Dico from champion trailers and
came complete for disk brakes. Coupler was bad not MC. Changing the drums
to disk is simple. Remove the drum backing plate assy just like replacing
drums. The caliper bracket bolts up with the same 4 bolt holes that the
backing assy bolts to. Then install the rotors, just like a drum, and
install the calipers with the 2 bolts supplied. Bleed brakes. Go boating.
You have to install a backup solenoid valve if you do not want to manually
lock the coupler when backing. 2 different types, One just blocks the line
and just goes inline to the brake line. Other feeds the fluid back to the
MC reservoir. Takes a few minutes to drill and tap the MC. If your tow
vehicle is newer, just go to a Reese hitch seller and buy a 5 wire
connector. The Solenoid hooks up to the backup light circuit which is the
5th hole on the connector.
Bill

Brakes on boat trailer
 

On Sun, 21 Mar 2004 21:16:42 GMT, "Calif Bill"
wrote:


"John H" wrote in message
.. .
On Sun, 21 Mar 2004 20:55:26 GMT, "Calif Bill"
wrote:


"John H" wrote in message
.. .
On Sun, 21 Mar 2004 18:20:24 GMT, "Calif Bill"
wrote:


"Don White" wrote in message
...
In this area, a trailer up to 2000 is not required to have brakes.
I see Chrysler is recommending trailer breaks if the load exceeds
1000
pounds.
The sailboat I will be purchasing this spring will weigh 1200 + 300
or
so
for the trailer + another 100 for motor/fuel
etc. That will be slightly over the 75% of max trailer towing
capacity
for
my mini-van... so I'm wondering if I should add brakes to a new
galvanized
trailer.
I'm assuming surge type, stainless steel disc brakes are the way to
go.



Your trailer, unless aluminum is going to be closer to 600#. My
tandem
axle
EZ-loader scales 1100#. Get brakes! You always have people cutting
in
front of you and slowing down. You gve yourself extra stopping
distance
and
other drivers see it as a good place to cut in and then they slow
down.
Disk brakes are the type you want. I changed from drum's 2 years ago,
and
the trailer still stops like new and the brakes look like new. Easy
if
in
salt to take the hose and wash the whole assembly with fresh water
when
done.
Bill


Hey Bill, where did you get your discs? I have to put new brakes on my
trailer, and it sounds like discs are the way to go. Any info would be
appreciated. Thanks.

John H

On the 'Poco Loco' out of Deale, MD
on the beautiful Chesapeake Bay!

I run Kodiak brakes. I got them at Century Wheel and Rim. Century has
distribution warehouses around the country. Google them for your closest
location. I run the E-coated caliper and rotor, but they now have
stainless.
Bill

That was fast! Thanks much. Did you do the work yourself? If so, how
difficult was the job.

John H

On the 'Poco Loco' out of Deale, MD
on the beautiful Chesapeake Bay!

Took me maybe 4 hours total. That was because I went to buy another master
cylinder as the original was rusty when I went to remove the residual valve.
Since then I replaced the coupler with a Dico from champion trailers and
came complete for disk brakes. Coupler was bad not MC. Changing the drums
to disk is simple. Remove the drum backing plate assy just like replacing
drums. The caliper bracket bolts up with the same 4 bolt holes that the
backing assy bolts to. Then install the rotors, just like a drum, and
install the calipers with the 2 bolts supplied. Bleed brakes. Go boating.
You have to install a backup solenoid valve if you do not want to manually
lock the coupler when backing. 2 different types, One just blocks the line
and just goes inline to the brake line. Other feeds the fluid back to the
MC reservoir. Takes a few minutes to drill and tap the MC. If your tow
vehicle is newer, just go to a Reese hitch seller and buy a 5 wire
connector. The Solenoid hooks up to the backup light circuit which is the
5th hole on the connector.
Bill


Thanks, Bill.

John H

On the 'Poco Loco' out of Deale, MD
on the beautiful Chesapeake Bay!

Brakes on boat trailer
 

I'd have to say it depends on how far you're going and if you're boating in
salt water or fresh. I'm thinking you're not going to be happy going any
great distance with a minivan towing. No brake system is impervious to salt
water and if you're just running a few miles to the local ramp I'd skip the
brakes. Or if you have access to a higher capacity tow vehicle that coule
be a reason to not put brakes on the trailer even if you are going farther.
Just leave extra stopping room.

"Don White" wrote in message
...
In this area, a trailer up to 2000 is not required to have brakes.
I see Chrysler is recommending trailer breaks if the load exceeds 1000
pounds.
The sailboat I will be purchasing this spring will weigh 1200 + 300 or so
for the trailer + another 100 for motor/fuel
etc. That will be slightly over the 75% of max trailer towing capacity
for
my mini-van... so I'm wondering if I should add brakes to a new galvanized
trailer.
I'm assuming surge type, stainless steel disc brakes are the way to go.

Brakes on boat trailer
 

On Sun, 21 Mar 2004 14:33:31 GMT, "Don White"
wrote:

~~ snippage ~~

That will be slightly over the 75% of max trailer towing capacity for
my mini-van... so I'm wondering if I should add brakes to a new galvanized
trailer.

Good idea.

I'm assuming surge type, stainless steel disc brakes are the way to go.

Yes. Just be aware of the fact that on certain trailer surge braking
systems, the backup system is done by a solenoid releasing pressure on
the braking system when the backup lights come on (there is also a
mechanical lockout, but that requires you to get out, put the lockout
on, etc. PITA). You will need a five wire system for specifically
that reason. Otherwise when you back up, the surge actuator presses
against the diaphram and you won't go no where.

As to the trailer, regardless of how big the trailer is, get rollers
instead of bunks. It will save your back. It's the one thing I hate
about my Ranger center cosole - those stupid bunks.

Good luck.

Later,

Tom
S. Woodstock, CT
-----------
"Angling may be said to be so
like the mathematics that it
can never be fully learnt..."

Izaak Walton "The Compleat Angler", 1653

Brakes on boat trailer
 

Lawrence James wrote in message
k.net...
I'd have to say it depends on how far you're going and if you're boating
in
salt water or fresh. I'm thinking you're not going to be happy going any
great distance with a minivan towing. No brake system is impervious to
salt
water and if you're just running a few miles to the local ramp I'd skip
the
brakes

That's the other consideration. How much maintenance is required on a disc
braking system if it's dunked into sal****er 30 or
so times a year plus maybe 20 for freshwater? I'm thinking I will have to
flush each time in the sal****er. Maybe one of those pressurized spray cans
used to spray trees or shrubs could be kept in the tow vehicle.
Otherwise, I'd have to wait until I got home.

Brakes on boat trailer
 

Short Wave Sportfishing wrote in message
snip
As to the trailer, regardless of how big the trailer is, get rollers
instead of bunks. It will save your back. It's the one thing I hate
about my Ranger center cosole - those stupid bunks.

Good luck.

Later,

Tom
S. Woodstock, CT

As I've read it...better to have the rollers if launching and loading each
time you go out....but the bunks are better if you
store your boat on the trailer. (better load distribution re long
winters/late springs?)
I'll be doing both..........

Brakes on boat trailer
 

On Mon, 22 Mar 2004 01:33:30 GMT, "Don White"
wrote:


Short Wave Sportfishing wrote in message
snip
As to the trailer, regardless of how big the trailer is, get rollers
instead of bunks. It will save your back. It's the one thing I hate
about my Ranger center cosole - those stupid bunks.

Good luck.

Later,

Tom
S. Woodstock, CT

As I've read it...better to have the rollers if launching and loading each
time you go out....but the bunks are better if you
store your boat on the trailer. (better load distribution re long
winters/late springs?)
I'll be doing both..........

Those are good points. I'd still opt for the rollers - much easier to
load and unload.

Brakes on boat trailer
 

"Don White" wrote in message
...

Lawrence James wrote in message
k.net...
I'd have to say it depends on how far you're going and if you're boating
in
salt water or fresh. I'm thinking you're not going to be happy going
any
great distance with a minivan towing. No brake system is impervious to
salt
water and if you're just running a few miles to the local ramp I'd skip
the
brakes

That's the other consideration. How much maintenance is required on a disc
braking system if it's dunked into sal****er 30 or
so times a year plus maybe 20 for freshwater? I'm thinking I will have to
flush each time in the sal****er. Maybe one of those pressurized spray
cans
used to spray trees or shrubs could be kept in the tow vehicle.
Otherwise, I'd have to wait until I got home.



Some use a bug sprayer. I just wash mine off after I retrieve the boat. I
may be out 8 hours and the brakes still look fine and stop great. Used to
get 1-1.5 years out of drum brakes before they went bad.
Bill

Brakes on boat trailer
 

"Short Wave Sportfishing" wrote in message
...
On Mon, 22 Mar 2004 01:33:30 GMT, "Don White"
wrote:


Short Wave Sportfishing wrote in
message
snip
As to the trailer, regardless of how big the trailer is, get rollers
instead of bunks. It will save your back. It's the one thing I hate
about my Ranger center cosole - those stupid bunks.

Good luck.

Later,

Tom
S. Woodstock, CT

As I've read it...better to have the rollers if launching and loading
each
time you go out....but the bunks are better if you
store your boat on the trailer. (better load distribution re long
winters/late springs?)
I'll be doing both..........

Those are good points. I'd still opt for the rollers - much easier to
load and unload.


I have bunks, but also lots of power to load and unload. I launch in
shallow areas, aluminum jetboat, and have no problem. The newer trailers
are going to HMWB plastic for the bunks and the boat slides really easy on
them. Is used for bearings in some cases.
Bill

Brakes on boat trailer
 

On Mon, 22 Mar 2004 04:10:46 GMT, "Calif Bill"
wrote:


"Short Wave Sportfishing" wrote in message
.. .
On Mon, 22 Mar 2004 01:33:30 GMT, "Don White"
wrote:


Short Wave Sportfishing wrote in
message
snip
As to the trailer, regardless of how big the trailer is, get rollers
instead of bunks. It will save your back. It's the one thing I hate
about my Ranger center cosole - those stupid bunks.

Good luck.

Later,

Tom
S. Woodstock, CT

As I've read it...better to have the rollers if launching and loading
each
time you go out....but the bunks are better if you
store your boat on the trailer. (better load distribution re long
winters/late springs?)
I'll be doing both..........

Those are good points. I'd still opt for the rollers - much easier to
load and unload.


I have bunks, but also lots of power to load and unload. I launch in
shallow areas, aluminum jetboat, and have no problem. The newer trailers
are going to HMWB plastic for the bunks and the boat slides really easy on
them. Is used for bearings in some cases.

I'll have to look into that. Thanks for the tip.

Later,

Tom
S. Woodstock, CT
-----------
"Angling may be said to be so
like the mathematics that it
can never be fully learnt..."

Izaak Walton "The Compleat Angler", 1653

Brakes on boat trailer
 

Don White wrote:
As I've read it...better to have the rollers if launching and loading each
time you go out....but the bunks are better if you
store your boat on the trailer. (better load distribution re long
winters/late springs?)
I'll be doing both..........

IIRC you're another sailor, right? Don't put a sailboat on rollers.
Sailboats are not built the way motorboats are. Rollers do not support
the hull well enough. Plus, you won't be power loading so you don't
really need them.

With regard to brakes.... get them. They will need to be rinsed after
every salt water use, and some maintenance once a year, but if they save
your life even once, they're worth it. We have hydraulic surge brakes
and they've saved us from a crash at least a dozen times. Other drivers
are just too erratic & selfish to count on the "leave extra distance"
theory.

Fresh Breezes- Doug King

Brakes on boat trailer
 

Tom,
Maybe if you placed some rollers to assist the bunks, best of both
worlds.
Paul

"Short Wave Sportfishing" wrote in message
...
On Mon, 22 Mar 2004 01:33:30 GMT, "Don White"
wrote:


Short Wave Sportfishing wrote in
message
snip
As to the trailer, regardless of how big the trailer is, get rollers
instead of bunks. It will save your back. It's the one thing I hate
about my Ranger center cosole - those stupid bunks.

Good luck.

Later,

Tom
S. Woodstock, CT

As I've read it...better to have the rollers if launching and loading
each
time you go out....but the bunks are better if you
store your boat on the trailer. (better load distribution re long
winters/late springs?)
I'll be doing both..........

Those are good points. I'd still opt for the rollers - much easier to
load and unload.

Brakes on boat trailer
 

On Mon, 22 Mar 2004 06:47:40 -0500, "Paul Schilter"
paulschilter@comcast,dot,net wrote:

Tom,
Maybe if you placed some rollers to assist the bunks, best of both
worlds.

Another good idea - thanks.

Brakes on boat trailer
 

DSK wrote in message
. ..
IIRC you're another sailor, right? Don't put a sailboat on rollers.
Sailboats are not built the way motorboats are. Rollers do not support
the hull well enough. Plus, you won't be power loading so you don't
really need them.

With regard to brakes.... get them. They will need to be rinsed after
every salt water use, and some maintenance once a year, but if they save
your life even once, they're worth it. We have hydraulic surge brakes
and they've saved us from a crash at least a dozen times. Other drivers
are just too erratic & selfish to count on the "leave extra distance"
theory.

Fresh Breezes- Doug King

Guilty as charged!
Yes, it will be a sailboat (Sandpiper 565).
I'm pretty well set on the brakes now.... and with the plastic covered
bunks, the boat should slip off fairly easily.
No power loading for me...everything smooth & easy.
I'd better start pricing the trailers. I can see $ 2K CDN floating away.

Brakes on boat trailer
 

On Mon, 22 Mar 2004 14:42:12 GMT, "Don White"
wrote:


DSK wrote in message
...
IIRC you're another sailor, right? Don't put a sailboat on rollers.
Sailboats are not built the way motorboats are. Rollers do not support
the hull well enough. Plus, you won't be power loading so you don't
really need them.

With regard to brakes.... get them. They will need to be rinsed after
every salt water use, and some maintenance once a year, but if they save
your life even once, they're worth it. We have hydraulic surge brakes
and they've saved us from a crash at least a dozen times. Other drivers
are just too erratic & selfish to count on the "leave extra distance"
theory.

Fresh Breezes- Doug King

Guilty as charged!
Yes, it will be a sailboat (Sandpiper 565).
I'm pretty well set on the brakes now.... and with the plastic covered
bunks, the boat should slip off fairly easily.
No power loading for me...everything smooth & easy.
I'd better start pricing the trailers. I can see $ 2K CDN floating away.

I just pased that last sentence as 2,000 Canadians floating away.

Need new glasses. :)

Tom

Brakes on boat trailer
 

Don White wrote in message
news:8XC7c.122424$IF6.4139680@ursa-
Guilty as charged!
Yes, it will be a sailboat (Sandpiper 565).
I'm pretty well set on the brakes now.... and with the plastic covered
bunks, the boat should slip off fairly easily.
No power loading for me...everything smooth & easy.
I'd better start pricing the trailers. I can see $ 2K CDN floating away.


D'oh! Just called the boat trailer manufacturer in Ontario that will most
likely supply a new gal. trailer if I buy the favoured boat. He tried to
talk me out of brakes at this weight. and they weren't needed, and if
ordered a bigger axle & wheels would have to be swapped in to accommodate.
They still deal with the drum brakes......which I don't want.
I also called the local Venture Trailer distributor. He also said stay away
from brakes unless you really need them.
Troublesome in salt water/air environment. They also deal only in drum
brakes.
What to do? I'll try another dealer. I may have to order the heavier axle
and then find the disc parts separately to install myself. (bad idea)

Brakes on boat trailer
 

Don White wrote:
D'oh! Just called the boat trailer manufacturer in Ontario that will most
likely supply a new gal. trailer if I buy the favoured boat.

Well that's a nice bit of change that just flew back into your wallet!

... He tried to
talk me out of brakes at this weight. and they weren't needed, and if
ordered a bigger axle & wheels would have to be swapped in to accommodate.
They still deal with the drum brakes......which I don't want.

Well, don't go to great lengths & spend huge sums to get disc over drum
brakes. The biggest difference IMHO is that the discs offer slightly
easier maintenance.

I also called the local Venture Trailer distributor. He also said stay away
from brakes unless you really need them.
Troublesome in salt water/air environment. They also deal only in drum
brakes.
What to do? I'll try another dealer.


BTW the reason why most people give trailer brakes a bad rap is that
their experience is with the low end of customers, who want to stop like
magic and won't do routine maintenance. A trailered load that heavy will
*definitely* affect your stopping distance and stability; brakes may
save your from a nasty wreck and IMHO that makes them worth the money &
the maintenance. A 65 mph jack-knife or tail-end crash is a guaranteed
bad day. Our trailer brakes have saved us about a dozen times over the
past ten years.


... I may have to order the heavier axle
and then find the disc parts separately to install myself. (bad idea)

It's a lot of work, but hey, at least you'd know it's done right. Wish I
had a good recommendation, but all the trailer dealers & shops I know
are down here in NC. Good luck!

Fresh Breezes- Doug King

Brakes on boat trailer
 

On Mon, 22 Mar 2004 17:49:54 GMT, "Don White"
wrote:


Don White wrote in message
news:8XC7c.122424$IF6.4139680@ursa-

~~ snippage ~~~

D'oh! Just called the boat trailer manufacturer in Ontario that will most
likely supply a new gal. trailer if I buy the favoured boat. He tried to
talk me out of brakes at this weight. and they weren't needed, and if
ordered a bigger axle & wheels would have to be swapped in to accommodate.
They still deal with the drum brakes......which I don't want.

Ah - well, I guess we know all about that dealer then.

I also called the local Venture Trailer distributor. He also said stay away
from brakes unless you really need them.

Horsesh....er...what a load. While he's right if y ou have a 14 foot
jon boat with a trolling motor on a trailer, but something like a
sailboat is certainly heavy enough. Not to mention that they don't
"stop" as much as keep the trailer from wandering off on it's own when
the brakes are applied suddenly. As to mantainence, just keep them
flushed with fresh water after use and they will last you forever.
Well, maybe not forever, but certainly for a while. Discs will rust,
but the new stainless discs are fine.

Troublesome in salt water/air environment. They also deal only in drum
brakes.

Ah - well, I guess we know all about that dealer then.

What to do? I'll try another dealer. I may have to order the heavier axle
and then find the disc parts separately to install myself. (bad idea)

It's not hard, but it will take a while.

Good luck.

Tom

Brakes on boat trailer & LEGAL TBL
 

To everyone following this thread, I didn't notice any mension of the possible
legal tbl if you have an accident, maybe someone injured or killed and some
lawyer discovers that you didn't have trailer brakes even though the minivan
builder recommended them............$$$$$$$$$, and possibly your insurance
company will refuse to pay as a result of you not following that
recommendation!
Also some boat builders (BOSTON WHALER?) recommend against rollers on trailers.
Best wisher
Mike

Brakes on boat trailer & LEGAL TBL
 

CaptMP wrote in message
...
To everyone following this thread, I didn't notice any mension of the
possible
legal tbl if you have an accident, maybe someone injured or killed and
some
lawyer discovers that you didn't have trailer brakes even though the
minivan
builder recommended them............$$$$$$$$$, and possibly your insurance
company will refuse to pay as a result of you not following that
recommendation!
Also some boat builders (BOSTON WHALER?) recommend against rollers on
trailers.
Best wisher
Mike

Just dug out the brocure for my '95 Voyager. At that time all they said was
you could tow 2000 pound load with the V6 engine. It's the 2004 version
that recommends brakes on a trailer over 1000 pounds.
I assume they are covering their ass because of crummy transmissions and
weak brakes.

Brakes on boat trailer & LEGAL TBL
 

Brakes on boat trailer & LEGAL TBL
 

On 23 Mar 2004 13:50:05 -0800, (Curtis CCR)
wrote:

(CaptMP) wrote in message ...
To everyone following this thread, I didn't notice any mension of the possible
legal tbl if you have an accident, maybe someone injured or killed and some
lawyer discovers that you didn't have trailer brakes even though the minivan
builder recommended them............$$$$$$$$$, and possibly your insurance
company will refuse to pay as a result of you not following that
recommendation!
Also some boat builders (BOSTON WHALER?) recommend against rollers on trailers.

You probably increase you chances of being found negligent in an
accident if you have not equipped you trailer as recommended by the
maker of the trailer or your tow vehicle. Even a fair lawyer might be
able to convince a civil case jury that you were negligent and would
have been able to stop had you taken the care to properly equip you
vehicles. Not likely a criminal problem unless you broke the laws
regarding towing (example: Dodge recommends trailer brakes over
1,000lb, but the law may only require them over 2,000.)

Your liability insurance is going to pay if you are found liable -
hence the name "liability insurance." Your vehicle collision and boat
hull coverage will probably pay too. Unless there are specific
exclusions, most insurance still pay even if the proximate cause of
the loss was stupidity on the part of the policyholder.

You might expect you coverage to be cancelled, or have premiums
skyrocket after such a loss.

In Virginia any trailer with a gross weight of over 3000lbs must, by
law, have brakes. I'd suggest you check the local laws.

John H

On the 'Poco Loco' out of Deale, MD
on the beautiful Chesapeake Bay!