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Scott February 18th 04 12:54 AM

2000 OptiMax Oil System
 
About 1000' from the dock today the oil system warning light
came on. Removing the cowl and inspecting the internal oil
reservoir shows it's full, but the warning remains.

Hopefully the problem is simply that the float switch in
this reservoir is bust, but I'm worried about running back
from the cabin in this condition.

I read that this engine is lubricated via its air compressor,
and that its injectors probably would not appreciate having
oil mixed 50:1 with its fuel as insurance.

So, does anyone know if the oil warning light is tied only
that float switch, or if the engine can have some other oil
related matter it's concerned about? If I knew it was just
the reservoir sensor, I could save myself a tow.

Ron White February 18th 04 05:32 PM

2000 OptiMax Oil System
 
My boat has Smart Craft gages , so I am not up on the warning lights
operation. However, there are some things I can tell you that may help,
The engine oil reservoir must be completely full. No air space at all. This
is accomplished by filling it all the way and as an added measure, cranking
the engine with the cap loose and letting the oil from the remote oil tank
flow till it coming thru the threads of the loose cap. Tighten the cap while
it is overflowing and you will be assured of a oil system that is purged.
That may your problem, or maybe not. FYI the engine is not oiled from the
compressor oil, the spent compressor oil does enter the air side of the
injection system and add some lubrication, but the primary oil for the
engine is injected into each cylinder's crankcase. The are seven injection
points. One in each of the cylinders and one to the oil pump.
I think ( I haven't researched this) that the only feedback the warning
lights get is oil level in both oil tanks, and switching to the oil pump.
There is no way to know if oil is flowing as the computer just knows if the
oil pumps operation is switching on and off properly. So, save a switching
error, the problem is oil levels in either tank as well as ail space in the
engine oil tank.
Hope this helps or getting really optimistic, solves your problem.
ps, if these thing don't help, you need to have the engine connected to a
Mercury DDT at shop or freind's, that is the only way to check switching to
the pump. Also ,again, you could go thru the self priming opertion and
listen for the injection pump to run.

--
Ron White
Boat building web address is
www.concentric.net/~knotreel



Scott February 18th 04 11:31 PM

2000 OptiMax Oil System
 
Ron White wrote:
My boat has Smart Craft gages , so I am not up on the warning lights
operation. However, there are some things I can tell you that may help,
The engine oil reservoir must be completely full. No air space at all. This
is accomplished by filling it all the way and as an added measure, cranking
the engine with the cap loose and letting the oil from the remote oil tank
flow till it coming thru the threads of the loose cap. Tighten the cap while
it is overflowing and you will be assured of a oil system that is purged.


I had an older model with a sticky float switch in its internal
reservoir, and that, plus it having been a rough trip, bias me
towards suspecting the sensor. I don't know how air could have
been introduced into the system, but if I can purge it without
specialized tools I can perhaps rattle the sensor manually a
little and see if the problem goes away.

That may your problem, or maybe not. FYI the engine is not oiled from the
compressor oil, the spent compressor oil does enter the air side of the
injection system and add some lubrication, but the primary oil for the
engine is injected into each cylinder's crankcase. The are seven injection
points. One in each of the cylinders and one to the oil pump.


It's tempting to blame the sensor, but the cost of being wrong
is pretty steep. I've had conflicting advice on whether this
injection system is compatible with the premixing oil in the fuel
in case the engine truly isn't getting lubrication.

Too bad if it's not, as that was cheap insurance in situations
like this.

I think ( I haven't researched this) that the only feedback the warning
lights get is oil level in both oil tanks, and switching to the oil pump.
There is no way to know if oil is flowing as the computer just knows if the
oil pumps operation is switching on and off properly. So, save a switching
error, the problem is oil levels in either tank as well as ail space in the
engine oil tank.
Hope this helps or getting really optimistic, solves your problem.


Well, since I'm looking at a tow if I can't solve it anyway, I
suppose I can take a stab at purging the system. All I need do is
put that cap on loose, and let the engine run until oil comes out?

It doesn't rely on positive pressure in the internal reservoir to
feed the oil pump?

ps, if these thing don't help, you need to have the engine connected to a
Mercury DDT at shop or freind's, that is the only way to check switching to
the pump. Also ,again, you could go thru the self priming opertion and
listen for the injection pump to run.


Ron White February 19th 04 12:27 AM

2000 OptiMax Oil System
 
Yes,all you have to do is loosen the cap and let it idle till it is
overflowing. Tighten cap, you're done. But if visual inspection shows the
reservoir not to be full, fill it then do the idle thing, that will save
time as the oil just slowly fills the reservoir. I guess the internal
pressure could or does help supply the oil injection pump but so does
gravity. I don't know what would happen if you ran the engine at operating
speed , without oil system pressure . Now one BIG issue. DO NOT premix as a
substitute for oil injection, your engine will blow up, this is not a maybe
it WILL. Reason is the Optimax as well as other direct injection engines (
Yamaha HPDI and Evinrude Ficht) have the fuel injected into the combustion
chamber, is does not go thru the crankcase, so premix will only lubricate
the piston and cylinder walls, no oil will ever get to the main bearings and
rod bearing and case seals. No matter what you are told don't believe it, it
just ain't so.
As far as why oil could have got low in the reservoir , it could have a
cracked cap, cracked tank or leaking hose or even a leak of pressure at the
main oil tank or maybe even the pressure pulse to the remote tank is missing
( bad check valve leaking hose or cracked oil tank or that cap may be loose
or cracked), other than the caps these are not so common but are all
possibilities. So don't overlook carefully checking out the whole oil system
to see that it is pressuring up. Your idea on the sender is good, to
troubleshoot that too, disconnect it and if it is still alarming then short
between the sender wires, either open circuit or closed will be the
condition the computer is looking for to say, things are ok. You have a good
engine and this is a simple problem for now so get it fixed right.
I hope this helps, good luck,

Ron White
Boat building web address is
www.concentric.net/~knotreel



Scott March 6th 04 02:46 PM

2000 OptiMax
 
Ron White wrote:
speed , without oil system pressure . Now one BIG issue. DO NOT premix as a
substitute for oil injection, your engine will blow up, this is not a maybe
it WILL. Reason is the Optimax as well as other direct injection engines (
Yamaha HPDI and Evinrude Ficht) have the fuel injected into the combustion
chamber, is does not go thru the crankcase, so premix will only lubricate
the piston and cylinder walls, no oil will ever get to the main bearings and
rod bearing and case seals. No matter what you are told don't believe it, it
just ain't so.


This makes perfect sense, but what's discouraging is the guys who
vetted premixing are the same horseshoe bay boat centre people whose
mechanics service the engine!

As far as why oil could have got low in the reservoir , it could have a
cracked cap, cracked tank or leaking hose or even a leak of pressure at the
main oil tank or maybe even the pressure pulse to the remote tank is missing
( bad check valve leaking hose or cracked oil tank or that cap may be loose
or cracked), other than the caps these are not so common but are all
possibilities. So don't overlook carefully checking out the whole oil system
to see that it is pressuring up. Your idea on the sender is good, to
troubleshoot that too, disconnect it and if it is still alarming then short
between the sender wires, either open circuit or closed will be the
condition the computer is looking for to say, things are ok. You have a good
engine and this is a simple problem for now so get it fixed right.
I hope this helps, good luck,


I did make it home without problems, so it's virtually sure the
fault was with the probe itself. The boat centre guys ended up
replacing the whole internal resevoir, though. Not sure why, I
couldn't see any leaks, but at least the problem's gone now.

For further worry, the boat centre says this is actually a former
"camp boat" engine. There was no mention that it had been
refurbished at point of sale, and standard break in procedure was
advised and followed.

Is there any way I can tell if they're blowing smoke, or if Mercury
really does this? Or is it just that everyone associated with boating
around Vancouver is a crooked swindler? Probably you're not in a
position to answer that one, but sometimes it really seems so.

Thanks for your help!


Ron White
Boat building web address is
www.concentric.net/~knotreel



Ron White March 6th 04 03:54 PM

2000 OptiMax
 
I did not understand the motor was a re-man , maybe you didn't either.
However if Merc stands behind the warranty you got and you think you paid a
reasonable price then maybe things are not so bad. If it is a factory
re-man it probalbly has a new powerhead and that is much like a new motor.I
hope you have good luck, and keep an eye on those guys, theye apparently
aren't up to speed on these engines. Many are not, they are stuck back in
carburetor days.

--
Ron White
Boat building web address is
www.concentric.net/~knotreel



basskisser March 10th 04 12:46 PM

2000 OptiMax
 
"Ron White" wrote in message ...
I did not understand the motor was a re-man , maybe you didn't either.
However if Merc stands behind the warranty you got and you think you paid a
reasonable price then maybe things are not so bad. If it is a factory
re-man it probalbly has a new powerhead and that is much like a new motor.I
hope you have good luck, and keep an eye on those guys, theye apparently
aren't up to speed on these engines. Many are not, they are stuck back in
carburetor days.


Ron, if the fuel/oil mixture doesn't go through the crankcase, how
does the crank, rod bearings get lubed?


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