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Trolling motor = need fuse?
I have a Mini Kota trolling motor 30 thrust, not sure if that thing comes with Fuse. Do I have to cut the +ve red cable and add a fuse? How many Amp do I need? The package comes with 2 terminals +ve and -ve rings which clamp to the battery, so the manufacture doesn't assume people to add fuse? Will the deep cycle battery blow up when overheat due to short circuit? N.S. |
Trolling motor = need fuse?
"n0sPaM" wrote in message ble.rogers.com...
I have a Mini Kota trolling motor 30 thrust, not sure if that thing comes with Fuse. Do I have to cut the +ve red cable and add a fuse? How many Amp do I need? The package comes with 2 terminals +ve and -ve rings which clamp to the battery, so the manufacture doesn't assume people to add fuse? Will the deep cycle battery blow up when overheat due to short circuit? N.S. My particular foot controlled 36 lb thrust MinnKota did not have a fuse inline when I bought it used. BUT, on advice from several people, I added a 20 amp inline fuse. I'm glad I did. The cables are long, going from back of boat to front, and I've blown the fuse twice in three years. Better the fuse than a fire. |
Trolling motor = need fuse?
Really... oh.. i think I have to buy a fuse ASAP and install it. That's
scary **** man. "basskisser" wrote in message om... "n0sPaM" wrote in message ble.rogers.com... I have a Mini Kota trolling motor 30 thrust, not sure if that thing comes with Fuse. Do I have to cut the +ve red cable and add a fuse? How many Amp do I need? The package comes with 2 terminals +ve and -ve rings which clamp to the battery, so the manufacture doesn't assume people to add fuse? Will the deep cycle battery blow up when overheat due to short circuit? N.S. My particular foot controlled 36 lb thrust MinnKota did not have a fuse inline when I bought it used. BUT, on advice from several people, I added a 20 amp inline fuse. I'm glad I did. The cables are long, going from back of boat to front, and I've blown the fuse twice in three years. Better the fuse than a fire. |
Trolling motor = need fuse?
Most high drain items don't get fused, I expect many fires start there. I
had a car engine fire one time caused by a short in the battery to starter cable, no damage to the battery even on that size, but it pretty well vaporized a #0 gauge starter cable. Can never go wrong adding a fuse on a boat. Try to find out how much it draws under load first. A fuse about 15% higher then full load will probably also blow if the motor gets stalled in weeds or rope, saving the motor too. Greg Moore "n0sPaM" wrote in message ble.rogers.com... Really... oh.. i think I have to buy a fuse ASAP and install it. That's scary **** man. "basskisser" wrote in message om... "n0sPaM" wrote in message ble.rogers.com... I have a Mini Kota trolling motor 30 thrust, not sure if that thing comes with Fuse. Do I have to cut the +ve red cable and add a fuse? How many Amp do I need? The package comes with 2 terminals +ve and -ve rings which clamp to the battery, so the manufacture doesn't assume people to add fuse? Will the deep cycle battery blow up when overheat due to short circuit? N.S. My particular foot controlled 36 lb thrust MinnKota did not have a fuse inline when I bought it used. BUT, on advice from several people, I added a 20 amp inline fuse. I'm glad I did. The cables are long, going from back of boat to front, and I've blown the fuse twice in three years. Better the fuse than a fire. |
Trolling motor = need fuse?
I'd recommend you look for a suitable load circuit breaker, instead of a fuse.
Canadian Tire used to sell a 20A breaker that should do the job. I used them on the batteries in a sailboat for the supply line(s) to the electrical panel. I never had them "pop", but slept better knowing they were there. The big advantage is no spare fuses (or lack of) to worry about. If it pops, turn off the motor and the as long as the excess load/short is no longer there, the breaker will reset itself. Kent On Wed, 09 Jul 2003 18:56:24 GMT, "n0sPaM" wrote: Really... oh.. i think I have to buy a fuse ASAP and install it. That's scary **** man. "basskisser" wrote in message . com... "n0sPaM" wrote in message able.rogers.com... I have a Mini Kota trolling motor 30 thrust, not sure if that thing comes with Fuse. Do I have to cut the +ve red cable and add a fuse? How many Amp do I need? The package comes with 2 terminals +ve and -ve rings which clamp to the battery, so the manufacture doesn't assume people to add fuse? Will the deep cycle battery blow up when overheat due to short circuit? N.S. My particular foot controlled 36 lb thrust MinnKota did not have a fuse inline when I bought it used. BUT, on advice from several people, I added a 20 amp inline fuse. I'm glad I did. The cables are long, going from back of boat to front, and I've blown the fuse twice in three years. Better the fuse than a fire. |
Trolling motor = need fuse?
Why is high drain don't get fused? I read the Mini Kota manual, it told me clearly to clamp the +ve and -ve to the battery, that's it. I can't find any information on fuse from the manual. If it doesn't need one, I don't want to spend time to do it.... N.S. "Greg Moore" wrote in message .. . Most high drain items don't get fused, I expect many fires start there. I had a car engine fire one time caused by a short in the battery to starter cable, no damage to the battery even on that size, but it pretty well vaporized a #0 gauge starter cable. Can never go wrong adding a fuse on a boat. Try to find out how much it draws under load first. A fuse about 15% higher then full load will probably also blow if the motor gets stalled in weeds or rope, saving the motor too. Greg Moore "n0sPaM" wrote in message ble.rogers.com... Really... oh.. i think I have to buy a fuse ASAP and install it. That's scary **** man. "basskisser" wrote in message om... "n0sPaM" wrote in message ble.rogers.com... I have a Mini Kota trolling motor 30 thrust, not sure if that thing comes with Fuse. Do I have to cut the +ve red cable and add a fuse? How many Amp do I need? The package comes with 2 terminals +ve and -ve rings which clamp to the battery, so the manufacture doesn't assume people to add fuse? Will the deep cycle battery blow up when overheat due to short circuit? N.S. My particular foot controlled 36 lb thrust MinnKota did not have a fuse inline when I bought it used. BUT, on advice from several people, I added a 20 amp inline fuse. I'm glad I did. The cables are long, going from back of boat to front, and I've blown the fuse twice in three years. Better the fuse than a fire. |
Trolling motor = need fuse?
"n0sPaM" wrote in message
le.rogers.com... Why is high drain don't get fused? I read the Mini Kota manual, it told me clearly to clamp the +ve and -ve to the battery, that's it. I can't find any information on fuse from the manual. If it doesn't need one, I don't want to spend time to do it.... N.S. Maybe the manufacturer figures that a motor like that will always have its wires visible, or, in other words, not enclosed in a bilge where potentially explosive fumes will build up. So, if the wires burn through their insulation for some unforeseen reason, it won't be a hazard. Maybe. But, if the wires *did* burn for some reason, and they happened to be laying next to a life vest.... Meanwhile, you could find an in-line fuse holder and probably do the job for under $25, even if you went bonkers and bought oil-filled crimps and a brand new crimp tool. Sounds like pretty cheap insurance to me. It'll take less time than filling out all the insurance papers for your fried boat. |
Trolling motor = need fuse?
On Wed, 09 Jul 2003 14:37:57 GMT, "n0sPaM"
wrote: I have a Mini Kota trolling motor 30 thrust, not sure if that thing comes with Fuse. Do I have to cut the +ve red cable and add a fuse? How many Amp do I need? The package comes with 2 terminals +ve and -ve rings which clamp to the battery, so the manufacture doesn't assume people to add fuse? Will the deep cycle battery blow up when overheat due to short circuit? N.S. Hmmm....I thought I posted a reply to this, but it's not there. Sorry if this doubles-up. If you are connecting your trolling motor directly to a battery with the clamps that come with the trolling motor (as in a rowboat or other boat where the trolling motor clamps to the transom), you do not "need" a fuse. If you are using "built in" concealed boat wiring, you *need* a fuse. Having said that, a properly sized fuse is never a bad idea, and in the event of a problem, could save your trolling motor or prevent a fire. I have used "clamp on" motors for years without fusing. Now that my toys cost more, and I am a little older and more careful, I fuse them. Happy boating. noah Courtesy of Lee Yeaton, See the boats of rec.boats www.TheBayGuide.com/rec.boats |
Trolling motor = need fuse?
On Wed, 09 Jul 2003 11:28:05 +0000, basskisser wrote:
"n0sPaM" wrote in message ble.rogers.com... I have a Mini Kota trolling motor 30 thrust, not sure if that thing comes with Fuse. Do I have to cut the +ve red cable and add a fuse? How many Amp do I need? The package comes with 2 terminals +ve and -ve rings which clamp to the battery, so the manufacture doesn't assume people to add fuse? Will the deep cycle battery blow up when overheat due to short circuit? N.S. My particular foot controlled 36 lb thrust MinnKota did not have a fuse inline when I bought it used. BUT, on advice from several people, I added a 20 amp inline fuse. I'm glad I did. The cables are long, going from back of boat to front, and I've blown the fuse twice in three years. Better the fuse than a fire. A 36-lb thrust Minn Kota draws over 30A at full load. Chances are, that's what's blowing your fuse. The large wires (4ga?) used can withstand about 100A or so (sorry, too lazy to look it up...), so you don't need protection at 20. But I suppose the motor itself, or the control cct, might short and catch fire. Fortunately, the traces in the control cct would probably act as "fuses" and melt before any real damage was done. If you want protection, I'd say about a 50A fuse or cct breaker would do the job. Lloyd Sumpter, Protection and Control Design, BC Hydro. |
Trolling motor = need fuse?
The first line of defence for electrical wirings should be the
installation. Don't have wires that are permanent lying around lose and unprotected that can get nicked, cut or worn in the normal operation of the boat. I try to run power cables in plastic electrical conduit =B9=82=B2=82=B3 where I can and wire tie out of harms way where I can't. = In the case of a trolling motor that is installed in the open, the cables should be lashed out of the way. They should not be laying on the deck, for instance, where you could drop a portable steel gas tank on them. As someone pointed out, "most"=A0 devices will open up (but don't bet on it) under the strain of the hundreds of amps a battery will deliver when short circuited. If you have a need to fuse, and you certainly should on a permanent installation, use an automotive fuse link (more reliable than a mechanical breaker especially in a wet boat) at the battery. They are rated around 100 to 300 amps and will blow if the cable is shorted and will not blow from the normal load. My opinion, worth what you paid for it. Ron Notes 1. Power cable in conduit has to be over rated, depending on the number of conductors, because of reduced heat loss. Consult an electrician. 2. Cables are rated for max load at a max surrounding temperature (usually 60=B0 or 90=B0 C). A cable rated for 100 amps will carry many times that before it fails. 3. Marine cable is available with a SS braid for armoring. Its easier to install than conduit. Don't remember what the standards say for shipboard but I prefer National Electric Code rated conduit. |
Trolling motor = need fuse?
If you have a need to fuse, and you certainly should
on a permanent installation, use an automotive fuse link (more reliable than a mechanical breaker especially in a wet boat) at the battery. Bingo. |
Trolling motor = need fuse?
"Lloyd Sumpter" wrote in message ...
On Wed, 09 Jul 2003 11:28:05 +0000, basskisser wrote: "n0sPaM" wrote in message ble.rogers.com... I have a Mini Kota trolling motor 30 thrust, not sure if that thing comes with Fuse. Do I have to cut the +ve red cable and add a fuse? How many Amp do I need? The package comes with 2 terminals +ve and -ve rings which clamp to the battery, so the manufacture doesn't assume people to add fuse? Will the deep cycle battery blow up when overheat due to short circuit? N.S. My particular foot controlled 36 lb thrust MinnKota did not have a fuse inline when I bought it used. BUT, on advice from several people, I added a 20 amp inline fuse. I'm glad I did. The cables are long, going from back of boat to front, and I've blown the fuse twice in three years. Better the fuse than a fire. A 36-lb thrust Minn Kota draws over 30A at full load. Chances are, that's what's blowing your fuse. The large wires (4ga?) used can withstand about 100A or so (sorry, too lazy to look it up...), so you don't need protection at 20. But I suppose the motor itself, or the control cct, might short and catch fire. Fortunately, the traces in the control cct would probably act as "fuses" and melt before any real damage was done. If you want protection, I'd say about a 50A fuse or cct breaker would do the job. Lloyd Sumpter, Protection and Control Design, BC Hydro. wonder why the literature that came with the trolling motor specify a 20A fuse? I'll look into that. |
Trolling motor = need fuse?
Basskisser,
It might be protecting the electronic speed controller and not the total load. Its hard to believe that the stall current of a trolling motor wouldn't blow a 20 amp fuse. Ron |
Trolling motor = need fuse?
prob silicone filled automotive IDC connector
"Pmitham" wrote in message ... Doug, What is an "oil filled crimp" I've been around marine electrical systems a long time and never heard of these. Where canI find them? Pierre "Doug Kanter" wrote in message ... "n0sPaM" wrote in message le.rogers.com... Why is high drain don't get fused? I read the Mini Kota manual, it told me clearly to clamp the +ve and -ve to the battery, that's it. I can't find any information on fuse from the manual. If it doesn't need one, I don't want to spend time to do it.... N.S. Maybe the manufacturer figures that a motor like that will always have its wires visible, or, in other words, not enclosed in a bilge where potentially explosive fumes will build up. So, if the wires burn through their insulation for some unforeseen reason, it won't be a hazard. Maybe. But, if the wires *did* burn for some reason, and they happened to be laying next to a life vest.... Meanwhile, you could find an in-line fuse holder and probably do the job for under $25, even if you went bonkers and bought oil-filled crimps and a brand new crimp tool. Sounds like pretty cheap insurance to me. It'll take less time than filling out all the insurance papers for your fried boat. |
Trolling motor = need fuse?
Maybe the manufacturer figures that a motor like that will always have
its wires visible, or, in other words, not enclosed in a bilge where potentially explosive fumes will build up. So, if the wires burn through their insulation for some unforeseen reason, it won't be a hazard. Maybe. But, if the wires *did* burn for some reason, and they happened to be laying next to a life vest.... Meanwhile, you could find an in-line fuse holder and probably do the job for under $25, even if you went bonkers and bought oil-filled crimps and a brand new crimp tool. Sounds like pretty cheap insurance to me. It'll take less time than filling out all the insurance papers for your fried boat. It just so happens that I bought a Minn Kota on sale at Canadian Tire today (28 lb thrust, for a 14' bowrider) and the leads aren't long enough to go to the battery. The cable on the motor ends in spade lugs, and the booklet says to use 6 gauge wire for the extension. What I was going to use was an old battery jumper cable that will give me the length I need, and terminate it in a nice lug to go on the battery terminal. On the motor's cable, short of cutting the spade lugs off, can anyone think of a simple screw type connector so that I can disconnect it when I want to? Plus, any sites or names of Toronto-area stores that carry 12v marine accessories would be handy. Thanks for any advice! -- "Stay calm. Be brave. Wait for the signs." regards, Frank Johansen Aurora, Ontario |
Trolling motor = need fuse?
Great ideas, Frank. That T connector would do what I want. What is the
name of it? -- "Stay calm. Be brave. Wait for the signs." Frank Johansen Aurora, Ontario "Frank Ciuca" a écrit dans le message de ... Speaking of fuses, let me tell you I was not able to find something big enough. I live in Windsor, so I always shop in the detroit area. Well, anyway, I bought a 36 lb thrust minn kota, which draws 36 amps. Well, good luck trying to find a fuse holder that big, short of those expensive circuit breakers you see at boat places. None of the boat places or the auto places (autozone, canadian tire, murrays) carries fuses that high in amperage. Radio shack did carry some 60 amps, but nothing those to be used with a bread board or a similar electric setup, not on a boat. As for the trolling motor connecting to the battery. Couple of options, one time i cut the spade lugs off and used those inline crimp connectors to hook it to the longer 6 gage wire to go to the battery, then smeared that liquid electric tape all over my crimp connection. On another boat, we setup a cheap "disconnect" box in the back of the boat, on the plywood. At a boat place in Detroit I found cheap insulated studs (imagine a T, where the horizontal bar is made of plastic with a hole running through on each side for fasteners, and the center of the T, a threaded rod, for your connections), mounted those to the plywood at the back of the boat and used that to connect the battery, trolling motor, as well as the lights. Buck Frobisher wrote: Maybe the manufacturer figures that a motor like that will always have its wires visible, or, in other words, not enclosed in a bilge where potentially explosive fumes will build up. So, if the wires burn through their insulation for some unforeseen reason, it won't be a hazard. Maybe. But, if the wires *did* burn for some reason, and they happened to be laying next to a life vest.... Meanwhile, you could find an in-line fuse holder and probably do the job for under $25, even if you went bonkers and bought oil-filled crimps and a brand new crimp tool. Sounds like pretty cheap insurance to me. It'll take less time than filling out all the insurance papers for your fried boat. It just so happens that I bought a Minn Kota on sale at Canadian Tire today (28 lb thrust, for a 14' bowrider) and the leads aren't long enough to go to the battery. The cable on the motor ends in spade lugs, and the booklet says to use 6 gauge wire for the extension. What I was going to use was an old battery jumper cable that will give me the length I need, and terminate it in a nice lug to go on the battery terminal. On the motor's cable, short of cutting the spade lugs off, can anyone think of a simple screw type connector so that I can disconnect it when I want to? Plus, any sites or names of Toronto-area stores that carry 12v marine accessories would be handy. Thanks for any advice! |
Trolling motor = need fuse?
I don't think you need a fuse for your trolling motor. It would
be essentially a resistor in series with your battery, and will waste power. If you wind up rowing the last 100 yards or so to get home, blame the fuse with confidence. If you absolutely must have a 32 amp fuse, just wire up a 20, a 10 and a 2 amp fuse all in parallel. It'll work like the hard to find value and you can use a cheaper muktifuse fuse holder strip. Use all the same types, ie fast blow. Voltage shouldn't matter, 12 volt rating or up is OK. After it blows, you will want a spare set, or a jumper. I tested a combination of a 10 and a 5 to win a 10 dollar bet, 35 years ago. None of the other techs in the section could believe it. A current limited power supply sat there at 15 amps for half an hour, and when overloaded, both fuses blew simultaneously after about 5 minutes at somewhere around 17 or 18 amps. Fuses get a little warm at full load. Terry K Dean wrote: On Mon, 28 Jul 2003 22:43:03 -0400, Frank Ciuca wrote: Well, good luck trying to find a fuse holder that big, short of those expensive circuit breakers you see at boat places. Go to a car audio place. They'd be happy to hook you up with a 50-100 amp inline fuse... -Dean -- http://ripperd2.dhs.org -- Terry K - My email address is MY PROPERTY, and is protected by copyright legislation. Permission to reproduce it is specifically denied for mass mailing and unrequested solicitations. Reproduction or conveyance for any unauthorised purpose is THEFT and PLAGIARISM. Abuse is Invasion of privacy and harassment. Abusers may be prosecuted. -This notice footer released to public domain. Spamspoof salad by spamchock - SofDevCo |
Trolling motor = need fuse?
Fuses are not resistors. They are wire that melts at a certain
temperature, thus a certain amperage at standard ambient temperature. In 40 years in electronics I have never seen a case where a fuse was considered anything but a wire. If a fuse or breaker gets warm so will the wire. Ron |
Trolling motor = need fuse?
P.S. You don't fuse a 32 amp load with a 32 amp fuse, unless you like
replacing fuses frequently. You fuse at the battery to protect in case of catostropic failure, such as the cables shorting out. That is why auto fuse links at the battery are rated at hundreds of amps, so you can pull a full load of say 50 amps and blow the fuse link if a cable short tries to pull thousands of amps. Ron |
Trolling motor = need fuse?
On Tue, 29 Jul 2003 20:25:34 -0400, "Greg Moore"
wrote: A resistor? In other words the world could save a ton of coin but just putting a couple of hundred fuses in various locations on their circuit boards in place of carbon or wire wound resistors?? Come on Terry, if a fuse acts as a resistor it is either grossly under sized (where of course it would blow) or the connections were made in a brutally poor fashion. When anything acts as a resistor, that is causes a voltage drop across it, it produces heat, if the fuse is not properly installed, or the holder too small for the amp rating, then that portion will get hot. If the fuse itself got hot, it will blow, this is what it is intended to do. When it is sized to run properly, it doesn't get hot, it just waits until there is a gross overload in the system then fries.. Greg Moore Sorry to disagree, Greg, but every component in an electrical circuit causes resistance, wire included. A fuse is *absolutely* a resistor, with a predetermined point of resistance, designed to "blow" at a specified current flow. A fuse will "get warm" at currents approaching it's rating. noah "Terry Spragg" wrote in message ... I don't think you need a fuse for your trolling motor. It would be essentially a resistor in series with your battery, and will waste power. If you wind up rowing the last 100 yards or so to get home, blame the fuse with confidence. If you absolutely must have a 32 amp fuse, just wire up a 20, a 10 and a 2 amp fuse all in parallel. It'll work like the hard to find value and you can use a cheaper muktifuse fuse holder strip. Use all the same types, ie fast blow. Voltage shouldn't matter, 12 volt rating or up is OK. After it blows, you will want a spare set, or a jumper. I tested a combination of a 10 and a 5 to win a 10 dollar bet, 35 years ago. None of the other techs in the section could believe it. A current limited power supply sat there at 15 amps for half an hour, and when overloaded, both fuses blew simultaneously after about 5 minutes at somewhere around 17 or 18 amps. Fuses get a little warm at full load. Terry K Dean wrote: On Mon, 28 Jul 2003 22:43:03 -0400, Frank Ciuca wrote: Well, good luck trying to find a fuse holder that big, short of those expensive circuit breakers you see at boat places. Go to a car audio place. They'd be happy to hook you up with a 50-100 amp inline fuse... -Dean -- http://ripperd2.dhs.org -- Terry K - My email address is MY PROPERTY, and is protected by copyright legislation. Permission to reproduce it is specifically denied for mass mailing and unrequested solicitations. Reproduction or conveyance for any unauthorised purpose is THEFT and PLAGIARISM. Abuse is Invasion of privacy and harassment. Abusers may be prosecuted. -This notice footer released to public domain. Spamspoof salad by spamchock - SofDevCo Courtesy of Lee Yeaton, See the boats of rec.boats www.TheBayGuide.com/rec.boats |
Trolling motor = need fuse?
On Tue, 29 Jul 2003 00:24:28 -0400, "Buck Frobisher"
wrote: -- "Stay calm. Be brave. Wait for the signs." Frank Johansen Aurora, Ontario "Frank Ciuca" a écrit dans le message de ... Speaking of fuses, let me tell you I was not able to find something big enough. I live in Windsor, so I always shop in the detroit area. Well, anyway, I bought a 36 lb thrust minn kota, which draws 36 amps. Well, good luck trying to find a fuse holder that big, short of those expensive circuit breakers you see at boat places. None of the boat places or the auto places (autozone, canadian tire, murrays) carries fuses that high in amperage. Radio shack did carry some 60 amps, but nothing those to be used with a bread board or a similar electric setup, not on a boat. Blue Sea Systems sells high-amperage fuses - up to 400 amps, or more. Of course, they don't fit the 1/4" x 1-1/4" fuseholders.... As for the trolling motor connecting to the battery. Couple of options, one time i cut the spade lugs off and used those inline crimp connectors to hook it to the longer 6 gage wire to go to the battery, then smeared that liquid electric tape all over my crimp connection. On another boat, we setup a cheap "disconnect" box in the back of the boat, on the plywood. At a boat place in Detroit I found cheap insulated studs (imagine a T, where the horizontal bar is made of plastic with a hole running through on each side for fasteners, and the center of the T, a threaded rod, for your connections), mounted those to the plywood at the back of the boat and used that to connect the battery, trolling motor, as well as the lights. sounds like a Blue Sea Systems "Power Post" (Although I wouldn't call them "Cheap" - but you could always fabricate your own from threaded rod and scrap plastic.) See http://www.bluesea.com/index.htm -- Peter Bennett, VE7CEI new newsgroup users info : http://vancouver-webpages.com/nnq GPS and NMEA info: http://vancouver-webpages.com/peter Vancouver Power Squadron: http://vancouver.powersquadron.ca |
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