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[email protected] March 7th 05 03:19 AM

Bottoms up oil filters........
 
After a short cruise to the Indian restaurant just up the sound and
back to the dock, the oil was hot and ready to change.

After changing the oil for the third time on the new engine, I am still
not confident that I'm doing something right....

My old engine had one filter that down from the fitting. The screw
fitting was at the top of the filter, so it was easy to fill the oil
filter with oil before screwing in onto the engine. I always liked to
pre-load the filter and reduce the amount of time it would take for the
engine to develop oil pressure when restarted.

The new engine has two filters, and they are mounted on top of a
bracket. The screw fitting is at the bottom of both filters.
When the old filters are loosened for removal, there is a need to keep
a bucket and a petro diaper under the filters as oil begins leaking out
before the old filter can be completely unthreaded.
It's messier than it should be.

I am using the factory filters, and they are supposed to have a
backcheck valve.

You guys with "bottoms up" oil filters on your engines. Do you preload
them with oil? Do you have a technique for getting the loaded filters
onto the fittings without making an oily mess in the engine room?

I almost feel like I should endure the oily mess to reduce the number
of seconds the engine runs with the oil pressure alarm sounding. (I
cranked the engine for 45 seconds, three times, so about 2 minutes
fifteen seconds total with the "stop" button depressed to try to fill
the empty filter cans. It still took about
5-10 seconds after the engine started for pressure to come up enough to
shut off the alarm).

Ideas or suggestions?


Justin Webb March 7th 05 04:27 AM

If your filter is mounted bottom up, then I believe the proper procedure
would be to poke a hole in the top of it. This will allow the oil to drain
out of the filter and back into the oil pan. At least that's what I remember
from Mercruiser school.

As far as trying to fill the filter before hand, I wouldn't worry about it.
There are plenty of engines out there with high hours, and I doubt many
people prefill the filters.

Justin
wrote in message
ups.com...
After a short cruise to the Indian restaurant just up the sound and
back to the dock, the oil was hot and ready to change.

After changing the oil for the third time on the new engine, I am still
not confident that I'm doing something right....

My old engine had one filter that down from the fitting. The screw
fitting was at the top of the filter, so it was easy to fill the oil
filter with oil before screwing in onto the engine. I always liked to
pre-load the filter and reduce the amount of time it would take for the
engine to develop oil pressure when restarted.

The new engine has two filters, and they are mounted on top of a
bracket. The screw fitting is at the bottom of both filters.
When the old filters are loosened for removal, there is a need to keep
a bucket and a petro diaper under the filters as oil begins leaking out
before the old filter can be completely unthreaded.
It's messier than it should be.

I am using the factory filters, and they are supposed to have a
backcheck valve.

You guys with "bottoms up" oil filters on your engines. Do you preload
them with oil? Do you have a technique for getting the loaded filters
onto the fittings without making an oily mess in the engine room?

I almost feel like I should endure the oily mess to reduce the number
of seconds the engine runs with the oil pressure alarm sounding. (I
cranked the engine for 45 seconds, three times, so about 2 minutes
fifteen seconds total with the "stop" button depressed to try to fill
the empty filter cans. It still took about
5-10 seconds after the engine started for pressure to come up enough to
shut off the alarm).

Ideas or suggestions?




bb March 7th 05 01:32 PM

On Mon, 07 Mar 2005 04:27:15 GMT, "Justin Webb"
wrote:

If your filter is mounted bottom up, then I believe the proper procedure
would be to poke a hole in the top of it. This will allow the oil to drain
out of the filter and back into the oil pan.


Wade through the crapola long enough and you're sure to find a nugget
of wisdom. Thank you.

bb

Capt John March 7th 05 05:32 PM

I just went to a class last week by the local Catapiller distributer.
Even though the filters are mounted such that you can fill them they
recomend that you leave them dry. They apparently do not want oil, even
brand new oil, entering the engine without passing through the filters
first. If you prefill the filters the oil in the filters goes directly
into the engine without being filtered, they consider this to be a bad
thing.


[email protected] March 7th 05 05:57 PM

I just went to a class last week by the local Catapiller distributer.
Even though the filters are mounted such that you can fill them they
recomend that you leave them dry. They apparently do not want oil, even

brand new oil, entering the engine without passing through the filters
first. If you prefill the filters the oil in the filters goes directly
into the engine without being filtered, they consider this to be a bad
thing.


************

That's pretty surprising.

I would think that running the engine for a while without oil pressure
would almost automatically do more damage than running a quart of
virgin, but unfiltered, oil through the engine. I guess the Cat guys
probably know 1000 times more about diesels than I do, though.


Ian Malcolm March 8th 05 04:11 AM

wrote:
I just went to a class last week by the local Catapiller distributer.
Even though the filters are mounted such that you can fill them they
recomend that you leave them dry. They apparently do not want oil, even

brand new oil, entering the engine without passing through the filters
first. If you prefill the filters the oil in the filters goes directly
into the engine without being filtered, they consider this to be a bad
thing.


************

That's pretty surprising.

I would think that running the engine for a while without oil pressure
would almost automatically do more damage than running a quart of
virgin, but unfiltered, oil through the engine. I guess the Cat guys
probably know 1000 times more about diesels than I do, though.

Consider what happens to any air in the line from the oil pump (and most
pumps will drain back down some) Air goes through dry filter paper just
fine but will it go through heavily oiled filter paper? I can imagine a
scenario where you get LESS oil during first startup with a filled filter.

--
Ian Malcolm. London, ENGLAND. (NEWSGROUP REPLY PREFERRED)
ianm[at]the[dash]malcolms[dot]freeserve[dot]co[dot]uk
[at]=@, [dash]=- & [dot]=. *Warning* HTML & 32K emails -- NUL:
'Stingo' Albacore #1554 - 15' Early 60's, Uffa Fox designed,
All varnished hot moulded wooden racing dinghy.

Ed March 8th 05 12:22 PM

With regular (open end up) filters, I always fill mine but I try and put
all the oil down the OUTSIDE of the filter, through the small holes so
it does get filtered first. BTW... pushing air through an oiled filter
is not an issue... it has the pressure of the oil behind it and it will
find it just as easy to make it through a wet filter as a dry one.

Also remember.... most engine manufactures don't want their engines to
go to 5000 hours + in the marine environment without another donation to
their profitability....

Ian Malcolm wrote:
wrote:

I just went to a class last week by the local Catapiller distributer.
Even though the filters are mounted such that you can fill them they
recomend that you leave them dry. They apparently do not want oil, even

brand new oil, entering the engine without passing through the filters
first. If you prefill the filters the oil in the filters goes directly
into the engine without being filtered, they consider this to be a bad
thing.


************

That's pretty surprising.

I would think that running the engine for a while without oil pressure
would almost automatically do more damage than running a quart of
virgin, but unfiltered, oil through the engine. I guess the Cat guys
probably know 1000 times more about diesels than I do, though.

Consider what happens to any air in the line from the oil pump (and most
pumps will drain back down some) Air goes through dry filter paper just
fine but will it go through heavily oiled filter paper? I can imagine a
scenario where you get LESS oil during first startup with a filled filter.



Harry Krause March 13th 05 02:18 PM

On 6 Mar 2005 19:19:02 -0800, wrote:

After a short cruise to the Indian restaurant just up the sound and
back to the dock, the oil was hot and ready to change.

After changing the oil for the third time on the new engine, I am still
not confident that I'm doing something right....

My old engine had one filter that down from the fitting. The screw
fitting was at the top of the filter, so it was easy to fill the oil
filter with oil before screwing in onto the engine. I always liked to
pre-load the filter and reduce the amount of time it would take for the
engine to develop oil pressure when restarted.

The new engine has two filters, and they are mounted on top of a
bracket. The screw fitting is at the bottom of both filters.
When the old filters are loosened for removal, there is a need to keep
a bucket and a petro diaper under the filters as oil begins leaking out
before the old filter can be completely unthreaded.
It's messier than it should be.

I am using the factory filters, and they are supposed to have a
backcheck valve.

You guys with "bottoms up" oil filters on your engines. Do you preload
them with oil? Do you have a technique for getting the loaded filters
onto the fittings without making an oily mess in the engine room?

I almost feel like I should endure the oily mess to reduce the number
of seconds the engine runs with the oil pressure alarm sounding. (I
cranked the engine for 45 seconds, three times, so about 2 minutes
fifteen seconds total with the "stop" button depressed to try to fill
the empty filter cans. It still took about
5-10 seconds after the engine started for pressure to come up enough to
shut off the alarm).

Ideas or suggestions?


Me and all my crews have instructions to prime ALL filters, whether
oil, hydrolic, fuel, water, or air.





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