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Water in all cylinders
After taking the boat out just a few times this your I couldn't crank the
engine anymore. Replaced the starter, removed all spark plugs, cranked and fount all cylinders in a 5L V8 OMC 305 engine flooded. Pumped out water, flushed cyl. (sprayed inside the cylinders and cranked) with WD-40 few times until dry and finally sprayed 1 can of fogging oil into all 8 cylinders. I pulled the intake manifold and there is lots of rust in the intake passages in both, intake manifold and both cylinder heads. Since all 8 cyl. were flooded at the same time with fresh water I do not suspect exhaust. (verified by creating a closed loop coolant system and eliminating exhaust altogether). Same issue. I also noticed rust on the bottom of the carb (4 barrel). My suspect is a leak between cooling passages and cylinders intakes in the intake manifold. Can't also imagine how a cracked block would flood all 8 cyl. at once. Please indicate how to test, diagnose the problem. Any thoughts on the intake idea? Thx, Paul |
-- "Paul" wrote in message . cable.rogers.com... After taking the boat out just a few times this your I couldn't crank the engine anymore. Replaced the starter, removed all spark plugs, cranked and fount all cylinders in a 5L V8 OMC 305 engine flooded. Pumped out water, flushed cyl. (sprayed inside the cylinders and cranked) with WD-40 few times until dry and finally sprayed 1 can of fogging oil into all 8 cylinders. I pulled the intake manifold and there is lots of rust in the intake passages in both, intake manifold and both cylinder heads. Since all 8 cyl. were flooded at the same time with fresh water I do not suspect exhaust. (verified by creating a closed loop coolant system and eliminating exhaust altogether). Same issue. I also noticed rust on the bottom of the carb (4 barrel). My suspect is a leak between cooling passages and cylinders intakes in the intake manifold. Can't also imagine how a cracked block would flood all 8 cyl. at once. Please indicate how to test, diagnose the problem. Any thoughts on the intake idea? Thx, Paul I had the same problem this year in my boat. I have 454 chevys. Water was in several cyls. last fall when we winterized. We run it clean and fogged it heavy. In the spring both motors had water in several cylinders again. There was even 3 or 4 qts. of water in the oil in both motors. The problem was the boat cover over time lost its waterproof qualities and rain water was able to run on the motors. The air cleaners are poorly designed for water running on the top air cleaner cover. Water will run into the wire screen elements and into the carbs. After discovering this I now put plastic bags over the air cleaners after use and have had no more water trouble. A better answer would be to put another type of air cleaner top on ( bigger than the orig). Maybe a china cap type thing. Dixon |
Possibly getting in thru the spark arrestor. Or a cracked/rusted out intake
manifold. "Paul" wrote in message . cable.rogers.com... After taking the boat out just a few times this your I couldn't crank the engine anymore. Replaced the starter, removed all spark plugs, cranked and fount all cylinders in a 5L V8 OMC 305 engine flooded. Pumped out water, flushed cyl. (sprayed inside the cylinders and cranked) with WD-40 few times until dry and finally sprayed 1 can of fogging oil into all 8 cylinders. I pulled the intake manifold and there is lots of rust in the intake passages in both, intake manifold and both cylinder heads. Since all 8 cyl. were flooded at the same time with fresh water I do not suspect exhaust. (verified by creating a closed loop coolant system and eliminating exhaust altogether). Same issue. I also noticed rust on the bottom of the carb (4 barrel). My suspect is a leak between cooling passages and cylinders intakes in the intake manifold. Can't also imagine how a cracked block would flood all 8 cyl. at once. Please indicate how to test, diagnose the problem. Any thoughts on the intake idea? Thx, Paul |
Intake looks great from top and is in generally v. good condition. Of course I cannot eliminate water getting into the intake through flame arrestor (especially that I do not have a special cover that goes on top) but when the engine is run on a water hose there is steam coming out of the outdrive that would indicate some leak. Both head gaskets were replaced and the old ones did not show any leakage or damage. Here's my trouble: - can't imagine cracked block as this would not fill the cylinders with water (not all of them at once), or will it? - head gaskets replaced, intake manifold inspected and intake gaskets replaced (no crack signs from the bottom) - rust in all intake passages from carb and under the carb - rust in the head intakes, both sides especially the middle passages closest to the carb - water in the oil, oil filter and crankcase - cylinders filled with fresh water (quite a lot) - no indication of a cracked block (on the outside) - no watermarks on the flame arrestor indicating water dripping from the engine cover - steam from the exhaust (that eliminates water dripping into the intake) - exhaust manifolds were cleaned and there are no rust marks inside - the only rusted area is the bottom of the carb, inside of the intake manifold and all cylinders/spark plugs. I tried to look into every possibility and am still puzzled. Only explanation would be a cracked intake manifold leaking into the intake passages then via cylinders down into the crankcase. Am I wrong? How to pinpoint the source of the problem? "JamesgangNC" wrote in message ink.net... Possibly getting in thru the spark arrestor. Or a cracked/rusted out intake manifold. "Paul" wrote in message . cable.rogers.com... After taking the boat out just a few times this your I couldn't crank the engine anymore. Replaced the starter, removed all spark plugs, cranked and fount all cylinders in a 5L V8 OMC 305 engine flooded. Pumped out water, flushed cyl. (sprayed inside the cylinders and cranked) with WD-40 few times until dry and finally sprayed 1 can of fogging oil into all 8 cylinders. I pulled the intake manifold and there is lots of rust in the intake passages in both, intake manifold and both cylinder heads. Since all 8 cyl. were flooded at the same time with fresh water I do not suspect exhaust. (verified by creating a closed loop coolant system and eliminating exhaust altogether). Same issue. I also noticed rust on the bottom of the carb (4 barrel). My suspect is a leak between cooling passages and cylinders intakes in the intake manifold. Can't also imagine how a cracked block would flood all 8 cyl. at once. Please indicate how to test, diagnose the problem. Any thoughts on the intake idea? Thx, Paul |
"Paul" wrote in message . cable.rogers.com... After taking the boat out just a few times this your I couldn't crank the engine anymore. Replaced the starter, removed all spark plugs, cranked and fount all cylinders in a 5L V8 OMC 305 engine flooded. Does this mean that water came out of all 8 cylinders after yo had removed the plugs? Since all 8 cyl. were flooded at the same time with fresh water I do not suspect exhaust. (verified by creating a closed loop coolant system and eliminating exhaust altogether). I am not sure what you mean here. How does creating a closed loop cooling eliminate the exhaust? Did you create a closed loop cooling system, run the motor and have all 8 cylinders fill with water again? When you ran the motor this way, did you not have any water running through the exhaust system? My suspect is a leak between cooling passages and cylinders intakes in the intake manifold. Can't also imagine how a cracked block would flood all 8 cyl. at once. If I understand the situation properly it doesn't sound like the water enters the cylinder(s) while the engine is running, but rather after the engine is shut down. If you get water into one cylinder it is easy for it to migrate to the other cylinders, all it takes is for the intake valve to be open. The water will flow from the flooded cylinder up into the intake manifold. At least one other intake valve will be open at the same time which means it will flood also. When you crank the engine the remaining cylinders will draw in any water remaining in the intake manifold and they will flood as well. You apparently have a leak between the water jacket and either a cylinder directly or into the intake manifold. This could be from a gasket failure, either the head gasket (fairly common failure) or the intake manifold gasket (pretty rare, but certainly possible). If the failure is in the head gasket a compression check should show which cylinder is the problem. If the problem is not a gasket then I would bet that the intake manifold has rusted through to the cooling system. If you still have your "closed system" rigged up try pressurizing it and seeing if it holds pressure. This is a standard test on radiator systems, and you can purchase a small pump and pressure guage that installs in place of the radiator cap for this purpose. The cooling system should be able to hold 13 PSI without any significant loss. Rod |
"rmcinnis" wrote in message ... "Paul" wrote in message . cable.rogers.com... After taking the boat out just a few times this your I couldn't crank the engine anymore. Replaced the starter, removed all spark plugs, cranked and fount all cylinders in a 5L V8 OMC 305 engine flooded. Does this mean that water came out of all 8 cylinders after yo had removed the plugs? Since all 8 cyl. were flooded at the same time with fresh water I do not suspect exhaust. (verified by creating a closed loop coolant system and eliminating exhaust altogether). I am not sure what you mean here. How does creating a closed loop cooling eliminate the exhaust? Did you create a closed loop cooling system, run the motor and have all 8 cylinders fill with water again? When you ran the motor this way, did you not have any water running through the exhaust system? My suspect is a leak between cooling passages and cylinders intakes in the intake manifold. Can't also imagine how a cracked block would flood all 8 cyl. at once. If I understand the situation properly it doesn't sound like the water enters the cylinder(s) while the engine is running, but rather after the engine is shut down. If you get water into one cylinder it is easy for it to migrate to the other cylinders, all it takes is for the intake valve to be open. The water will flow from the flooded cylinder up into the intake manifold. At least one other intake valve will be open at the same time which means it will flood also. When you crank the engine the remaining cylinders will draw in any water remaining in the intake manifold and they will flood as well. You apparently have a leak between the water jacket and either a cylinder directly or into the intake manifold. This could be from a gasket failure, either the head gasket (fairly common failure) or the intake manifold gasket (pretty rare, but certainly possible). If the failure is in the head gasket a compression check should show which cylinder is the problem. If the problem is not a gasket then I would bet that the intake manifold has rusted through to the cooling system. If you still have your "closed system" rigged up try pressurizing it and seeing if it holds pressure. This is a standard test on radiator systems, and you can purchase a small pump and pressure guage that installs in place of the radiator cap for this purpose. The cooling system should be able to hold 13 PSI without any significant loss. Rod Cheaper to take the boat to someone to do the pressure test. It is about $135 for the radiator pressure tester. They have been making these things for 50 years, and the price is still way to high. |
Yes, water was presesnt in all cylinders, all plugs were wet and most of the
water was in the middle cyl. 4,6,3,7 but also in the rest of them. Intake passages are nicely red, so are the connecting cyl. head ports. I created a closed loop bypassing exhaust altogether, only the block, heads and intake was in the loop. Water inlet was inside the bucket, so was the outlet that would normally lead to exhaust manifolds. You could see the engine sucking from and throwing water back out into the bucket. Engine also takes the water running (steam) but it is all more apparent whan you shut down. I can't comprehend the idea of water travelling from one cyl to another. Cylinders are air-tight´and intake valve is open only during the downstroke so how could the piston push water out into the intake (?). That would make the engine fail any compression test wouldn't it? As to compression, it is 150-170 on all cyl. Head gaskets were replaced and old ones were still good, no problem. Bottom of the carb is quite badly rusted indicating that it has freq. contact with water (?). This is a major leak and lots of water enters the engine and cylinders. "rmcinnis" wrote in message ... "Paul" wrote in message . cable.rogers.com... After taking the boat out just a few times this your I couldn't crank the engine anymore. Replaced the starter, removed all spark plugs, cranked and fount all cylinders in a 5L V8 OMC 305 engine flooded. Does this mean that water came out of all 8 cylinders after yo had removed the plugs? Since all 8 cyl. were flooded at the same time with fresh water I do not suspect exhaust. (verified by creating a closed loop coolant system and eliminating exhaust altogether). I am not sure what you mean here. How does creating a closed loop cooling eliminate the exhaust? Did you create a closed loop cooling system, run the motor and have all 8 cylinders fill with water again? When you ran the motor this way, did you not have any water running through the exhaust system? My suspect is a leak between cooling passages and cylinders intakes in the intake manifold. Can't also imagine how a cracked block would flood all 8 cyl. at once. If I understand the situation properly it doesn't sound like the water enters the cylinder(s) while the engine is running, but rather after the engine is shut down. If you get water into one cylinder it is easy for it to migrate to the other cylinders, all it takes is for the intake valve to be open. The water will flow from the flooded cylinder up into the intake manifold. At least one other intake valve will be open at the same time which means it will flood also. When you crank the engine the remaining cylinders will draw in any water remaining in the intake manifold and they will flood as well. You apparently have a leak between the water jacket and either a cylinder directly or into the intake manifold. This could be from a gasket failure, either the head gasket (fairly common failure) or the intake manifold gasket (pretty rare, but certainly possible). If the failure is in the head gasket a compression check should show which cylinder is the problem. If the problem is not a gasket then I would bet that the intake manifold has rusted through to the cooling system. If you still have your "closed system" rigged up try pressurizing it and seeing if it holds pressure. This is a standard test on radiator systems, and you can purchase a small pump and pressure guage that installs in place of the radiator cap for this purpose. The cooling system should be able to hold 13 PSI without any significant loss. Rod |
The problem with pressure test is that it won't show the leak placement if
I'm correct. It would be a great after-repair confirmation that everything is OK though, especially in comparison with the initial one. I have no testing equip. and can't take the boat to the repair shop (boat is on blocks now). I've put the engine back together after replacing both head gaskets and it failed the probe miserably so I have to revisit the issue again. "Calif Bill" wrote in message nk.net... "rmcinnis" wrote in message ... "Paul" wrote in message . cable.rogers.com... After taking the boat out just a few times this your I couldn't crank the engine anymore. Replaced the starter, removed all spark plugs, cranked and fount all cylinders in a 5L V8 OMC 305 engine flooded. Does this mean that water came out of all 8 cylinders after yo had removed the plugs? Since all 8 cyl. were flooded at the same time with fresh water I do not suspect exhaust. (verified by creating a closed loop coolant system and eliminating exhaust altogether). I am not sure what you mean here. How does creating a closed loop cooling eliminate the exhaust? Did you create a closed loop cooling system, run the motor and have all 8 cylinders fill with water again? When you ran the motor this way, did you not have any water running through the exhaust system? My suspect is a leak between cooling passages and cylinders intakes in the intake manifold. Can't also imagine how a cracked block would flood all 8 cyl. at once. If I understand the situation properly it doesn't sound like the water enters the cylinder(s) while the engine is running, but rather after the engine is shut down. If you get water into one cylinder it is easy for it to migrate to the other cylinders, all it takes is for the intake valve to be open. The water will flow from the flooded cylinder up into the intake manifold. At least one other intake valve will be open at the same time which means it will flood also. When you crank the engine the remaining cylinders will draw in any water remaining in the intake manifold and they will flood as well. You apparently have a leak between the water jacket and either a cylinder directly or into the intake manifold. This could be from a gasket failure, either the head gasket (fairly common failure) or the intake manifold gasket (pretty rare, but certainly possible). If the failure is in the head gasket a compression check should show which cylinder is the problem. If the problem is not a gasket then I would bet that the intake manifold has rusted through to the cooling system. If you still have your "closed system" rigged up try pressurizing it and seeing if it holds pressure. This is a standard test on radiator systems, and you can purchase a small pump and pressure guage that installs in place of the radiator cap for this purpose. The cooling system should be able to hold 13 PSI without any significant loss. Rod Cheaper to take the boat to someone to do the pressure test. It is about $135 for the radiator pressure tester. They have been making these things for 50 years, and the price is still way to high. |
"Paul" wrote in message .rogers.com... The problem with pressure test is that it won't show the leak placement if I'm correct. It would be a great after-repair confirmation that everything is OK though, especially in comparison with the initial one. I have no testing equip. and can't take the boat to the repair shop (boat is on blocks now). I've put the engine back together after replacing both head gaskets and it failed the probe miserably so I have to revisit the issue again. "Calif Bill" wrote in message nk.net... "rmcinnis" wrote in message ... "Paul" wrote in message . cable.rogers.com... After taking the boat out just a few times this your I couldn't crank the engine anymore. Replaced the starter, removed all spark plugs, cranked and fount all cylinders in a 5L V8 OMC 305 engine flooded. Does this mean that water came out of all 8 cylinders after yo had removed the plugs? Since all 8 cyl. were flooded at the same time with fresh water I do not suspect exhaust. (verified by creating a closed loop coolant system and eliminating exhaust altogether). I am not sure what you mean here. How does creating a closed loop cooling eliminate the exhaust? Did you create a closed loop cooling system, run the motor and have all 8 cylinders fill with water again? When you ran the motor this way, did you not have any water running through the exhaust system? My suspect is a leak between cooling passages and cylinders intakes in the intake manifold. Can't also imagine how a cracked block would flood all 8 cyl. at once. If I understand the situation properly it doesn't sound like the water enters the cylinder(s) while the engine is running, but rather after the engine is shut down. If you get water into one cylinder it is easy for it to migrate to the other cylinders, all it takes is for the intake valve to be open. The water will flow from the flooded cylinder up into the intake manifold. At least one other intake valve will be open at the same time which means it will flood also. When you crank the engine the remaining cylinders will draw in any water remaining in the intake manifold and they will flood as well. You apparently have a leak between the water jacket and either a cylinder directly or into the intake manifold. This could be from a gasket failure, either the head gasket (fairly common failure) or the intake manifold gasket (pretty rare, but certainly possible). If the failure is in the head gasket a compression check should show which cylinder is the problem. If the problem is not a gasket then I would bet that the intake manifold has rusted through to the cooling system. If you still have your "closed system" rigged up try pressurizing it and seeing if it holds pressure. This is a standard test on radiator systems, and you can purchase a small pump and pressure guage that installs in place of the radiator cap for this purpose. The cooling system should be able to hold 13 PSI without any significant loss. Rod Cheaper to take the boat to someone to do the pressure test. It is about $135 for the radiator pressure tester. They have been making these things for 50 years, and the price is still way to high. Did you have the heads machined when replacing gaskets? Sometimes the angle between the head and the intake changes enough that the intake does not seal to the heads. Pull the intake and look at the gasket to see if it is compressed all over. Auto parts stores do rent tools and you may be able to rent a pressure checker. |
Pictures are at the bottom of the previous post of mine. Forgot to delete
the text in-between. Sorry. See the one above this post. |
No, heads were not machined as the gaskets were evenly compressed. I cleaned
them with an emery cloth only and reinstalled them. Neither was the intake manifold. Everything looked OK. The symptoms did not change after the reinstallation. Compression was the same, no other surprises. Engine started and ran OK. Again, I stress that the carb bottom rust looks awfully suspicious. I do not suspect any head, block issue but I may be wrong. Rust was present only in the area surrounding the intake: underneath the carb and along the intake passages (see pictures). Did you have the heads machined when replacing gaskets? Sometimes the angle between the head and the intake changes enough that the intake does not seal to the heads. Pull the intake and look at the gasket to see if it is compressed all over. Auto parts stores do rent tools and you may be able to rent a pressure checker. |
"Calif Bill" wrote in message ink.net...
"rmcinnis" wrote in message ... "Paul" wrote in message . cable.rogers.com... After taking the boat out just a few times this your I couldn't crank the engine anymore. Replaced the starter, removed all spark plugs, cranked and fount all cylinders in a 5L V8 OMC 305 engine flooded. Does this mean that water came out of all 8 cylinders after yo had removed the plugs? Since all 8 cyl. were flooded at the same time with fresh water I do not suspect exhaust. (verified by creating a closed loop coolant system and eliminating exhaust altogether). I am not sure what you mean here. How does creating a closed loop cooling eliminate the exhaust? Did you create a closed loop cooling system, run the motor and have all 8 cylinders fill with water again? When you ran the motor this way, did you not have any water running through the exhaust system? My suspect is a leak between cooling passages and cylinders intakes in the intake manifold. Can't also imagine how a cracked block would flood all 8 cyl. at once. If I understand the situation properly it doesn't sound like the water enters the cylinder(s) while the engine is running, but rather after the engine is shut down. If you get water into one cylinder it is easy for it to migrate to the other cylinders, all it takes is for the intake valve to be open. The water will flow from the flooded cylinder up into the intake manifold. At least one other intake valve will be open at the same time which means it will flood also. When you crank the engine the remaining cylinders will draw in any water remaining in the intake manifold and they will flood as well. You apparently have a leak between the water jacket and either a cylinder directly or into the intake manifold. This could be from a gasket failure, either the head gasket (fairly common failure) or the intake manifold gasket (pretty rare, but certainly possible). If the failure is in the head gasket a compression check should show which cylinder is the problem. If the problem is not a gasket then I would bet that the intake manifold has rusted through to the cooling system. If you still have your "closed system" rigged up try pressurizing it and seeing if it holds pressure. This is a standard test on radiator systems, and you can purchase a small pump and pressure guage that installs in place of the radiator cap for this purpose. The cooling system should be able to hold 13 PSI without any significant loss. Rod Cheaper to take the boat to someone to do the pressure test. It is about $135 for the radiator pressure tester. They have been making these things for 50 years, and the price is still way to high. Why? All you need is a non-relieving cap with 1/4" nipple, available at NAPA for less than $10, a low pressure gauge, and your air compressor, even the little tiny ones will work. |
"dixon" wrote in message news:OaL3d.79018$MQ5.33035@attbi_s52...
-- "Paul" wrote in message . cable.rogers.com... After taking the boat out just a few times this your I couldn't crank the engine anymore. Replaced the starter, removed all spark plugs, cranked and fount all cylinders in a 5L V8 OMC 305 engine flooded. Pumped out water, flushed cyl. (sprayed inside the cylinders and cranked) with WD-40 few times until dry and finally sprayed 1 can of fogging oil into all 8 cylinders. I pulled the intake manifold and there is lots of rust in the intake passages in both, intake manifold and both cylinder heads. Since all 8 cyl. were flooded at the same time with fresh water I do not suspect exhaust. (verified by creating a closed loop coolant system and eliminating exhaust altogether). Same issue. I also noticed rust on the bottom of the carb (4 barrel). My suspect is a leak between cooling passages and cylinders intakes in the intake manifold. Can't also imagine how a cracked block would flood all 8 cyl. at once. Please indicate how to test, diagnose the problem. Any thoughts on the intake idea? Thx, Paul I had the same problem this year in my boat. I have 454 chevys. Water was in several cyls. last fall when we winterized. We run it clean and fogged it heavy. In the spring both motors had water in several cylinders again. There was even 3 or 4 qts. of water in the oil in both motors. The problem was the boat cover over time lost its waterproof qualities and rain water was able to run on the motors. The air cleaners are poorly designed for water running on the top air cleaner cover. Water will run into the wire screen elements and into the carbs. After discovering this I now put plastic bags over the air cleaners after use and have had no more water trouble. A better answer would be to put another type of air cleaner top on ( bigger than the orig). Maybe a china cap type thing. Dixon I had the same kind of problem, only mine was getting in when I rinsed the engine hatches off after a day of heavy fishing, the rinse water ran down onto the air cleaners and down the carb. How did I fix it? Your going to love my high tech fix, I put shower caps over the air cleaners before rinsing the boat off, and left them on until the next time I used the boat. Hey, it worked. |
"basskisser" wrote in message om... "Calif Bill" wrote in message ink.net... "rmcinnis" wrote in message ... "Paul" wrote in message . cable.rogers.com... After taking the boat out just a few times this your I couldn't crank the engine anymore. Replaced the starter, removed all spark plugs, cranked and fount all cylinders in a 5L V8 OMC 305 engine flooded. Does this mean that water came out of all 8 cylinders after yo had removed the plugs? Since all 8 cyl. were flooded at the same time with fresh water I do not suspect exhaust. (verified by creating a closed loop coolant system and eliminating exhaust altogether). I am not sure what you mean here. How does creating a closed loop cooling eliminate the exhaust? Did you create a closed loop cooling system, run the motor and have all 8 cylinders fill with water again? When you ran the motor this way, did you not have any water running through the exhaust system? My suspect is a leak between cooling passages and cylinders intakes in the intake manifold. Can't also imagine how a cracked block would flood all 8 cyl. at once. If I understand the situation properly it doesn't sound like the water enters the cylinder(s) while the engine is running, but rather after the engine is shut down. If you get water into one cylinder it is easy for it to migrate to the other cylinders, all it takes is for the intake valve to be open. The water will flow from the flooded cylinder up into the intake manifold. At least one other intake valve will be open at the same time which means it will flood also. When you crank the engine the remaining cylinders will draw in any water remaining in the intake manifold and they will flood as well. You apparently have a leak between the water jacket and either a cylinder directly or into the intake manifold. This could be from a gasket failure, either the head gasket (fairly common failure) or the intake manifold gasket (pretty rare, but certainly possible). If the failure is in the head gasket a compression check should show which cylinder is the problem. If the problem is not a gasket then I would bet that the intake manifold has rusted through to the cooling system. If you still have your "closed system" rigged up try pressurizing it and seeing if it holds pressure. This is a standard test on radiator systems, and you can purchase a small pump and pressure guage that installs in place of the radiator cap for this purpose. The cooling system should be able to hold 13 PSI without any significant loss. Rod Cheaper to take the boat to someone to do the pressure test. It is about $135 for the radiator pressure tester. They have been making these things for 50 years, and the price is still way to high. Why? All you need is a non-relieving cap with 1/4" nipple, available at NAPA for less than $10, a low pressure gauge, and your air compressor, even the little tiny ones will work. Some people like to use the tool designed for the job. For less than $10 and no time expended, you can rent the tool. |
"Calif Bill" wrote in message link.net...
"basskisser" wrote in message om... "Calif Bill" wrote in message ink.net... "rmcinnis" wrote in message ... "Paul" wrote in message . cable.rogers.com... After taking the boat out just a few times this your I couldn't crank the engine anymore. Replaced the starter, removed all spark plugs, cranked and fount all cylinders in a 5L V8 OMC 305 engine flooded. Does this mean that water came out of all 8 cylinders after yo had removed the plugs? Since all 8 cyl. were flooded at the same time with fresh water I do not suspect exhaust. (verified by creating a closed loop coolant system and eliminating exhaust altogether). I am not sure what you mean here. How does creating a closed loop cooling eliminate the exhaust? Did you create a closed loop cooling system, run the motor and have all 8 cylinders fill with water again? When you ran the motor this way, did you not have any water running through the exhaust system? My suspect is a leak between cooling passages and cylinders intakes in the intake manifold. Can't also imagine how a cracked block would flood all 8 cyl. at once. If I understand the situation properly it doesn't sound like the water enters the cylinder(s) while the engine is running, but rather after the engine is shut down. If you get water into one cylinder it is easy for it to migrate to the other cylinders, all it takes is for the intake valve to be open. The water will flow from the flooded cylinder up into the intake manifold. At least one other intake valve will be open at the same time which means it will flood also. When you crank the engine the remaining cylinders will draw in any water remaining in the intake manifold and they will flood as well. You apparently have a leak between the water jacket and either a cylinder directly or into the intake manifold. This could be from a gasket failure, either the head gasket (fairly common failure) or the intake manifold gasket (pretty rare, but certainly possible). If the failure is in the head gasket a compression check should show which cylinder is the problem. If the problem is not a gasket then I would bet that the intake manifold has rusted through to the cooling system. If you still have your "closed system" rigged up try pressurizing it and seeing if it holds pressure. This is a standard test on radiator systems, and you can purchase a small pump and pressure guage that installs in place of the radiator cap for this purpose. The cooling system should be able to hold 13 PSI without any significant loss. Rod Cheaper to take the boat to someone to do the pressure test. It is about $135 for the radiator pressure tester. They have been making these things for 50 years, and the price is still way to high. Why? All you need is a non-relieving cap with 1/4" nipple, available at NAPA for less than $10, a low pressure gauge, and your air compressor, even the little tiny ones will work. Some people like to use the tool designed for the job. For less than $10 and no time expended, you can rent the tool. The tool I've described IS "designed for the job". For less than $10 you can OWN it. |
Pressure test is definitely a way to go. I'll see whether I can do it with
the addition of some simple tools. What I'm not sure is how will I be able to find out what the exact spot is. Even without doing it I know the engine will fail the test but I'm not exactly sure how to proceed afterwards. Why? All you need is a non-relieving cap with 1/4" nipple, available at NAPA for less than $10, a low pressure gauge, and your air compressor, even the little tiny ones will work. Some people like to use the tool designed for the job. For less than $10 and no time expended, you can rent the tool. The tool I've described IS "designed for the job". For less than $10 you can OWN it. |
As a precaution I have made digital pictures of every part that I took out
and what strikes me now is that I've initially missed some watermarks on the intake's reverse side. I'm quite sure, after reexamining pictures that an intake is my problem but unfortunately I couldn't previously remove the intake's bottom shield to be 100% certain. It was riveted to the intake's bottom part. Intake's gasket looked good enough to eliminate it as a possibility. "Calif Bill" wrote in message k.net... "Paul" wrote in message .rogers.com... The problem with pressure test is that it won't show the leak placement if I'm correct. It would be a great after-repair confirmation that everything is OK though, especially in comparison with the initial one. I have no testing equip. and can't take the boat to the repair shop (boat is on blocks now). I've put the engine back together after replacing both head gaskets and it failed the probe miserably so I have to revisit the issue again. "Calif Bill" wrote in message nk.net... "rmcinnis" wrote in message ... "Paul" wrote in message . cable.rogers.com... After taking the boat out just a few times this your I couldn't crank the engine anymore. Replaced the starter, removed all spark plugs, cranked and fount all cylinders in a 5L V8 OMC 305 engine flooded. Does this mean that water came out of all 8 cylinders after yo had removed the plugs? Since all 8 cyl. were flooded at the same time with fresh water I do not suspect exhaust. (verified by creating a closed loop coolant system and eliminating exhaust altogether). I am not sure what you mean here. How does creating a closed loop cooling eliminate the exhaust? Did you create a closed loop cooling system, run the motor and have all 8 cylinders fill with water again? When you ran the motor this way, did you not have any water running through the exhaust system? My suspect is a leak between cooling passages and cylinders intakes in the intake manifold. Can't also imagine how a cracked block would flood all 8 cyl. at once. If I understand the situation properly it doesn't sound like the water enters the cylinder(s) while the engine is running, but rather after the engine is shut down. If you get water into one cylinder it is easy for it to migrate to the other cylinders, all it takes is for the intake valve to be open. The water will flow from the flooded cylinder up into the intake manifold. At least one other intake valve will be open at the same time which means it will flood also. When you crank the engine the remaining cylinders will draw in any water remaining in the intake manifold and they will flood as well. You apparently have a leak between the water jacket and either a cylinder directly or into the intake manifold. This could be from a gasket failure, either the head gasket (fairly common failure) or the intake manifold gasket (pretty rare, but certainly possible). If the failure is in the head gasket a compression check should show which cylinder is the problem. If the problem is not a gasket then I would bet that the intake manifold has rusted through to the cooling system. If you still have your "closed system" rigged up try pressurizing it and seeing if it holds pressure. This is a standard test on radiator systems, and you can purchase a small pump and pressure guage that installs in place of the radiator cap for this purpose. The cooling system should be able to hold 13 PSI without any significant loss. Rod Cheaper to take the boat to someone to do the pressure test. It is about $135 for the radiator pressure tester. They have been making these things for 50 years, and the price is still way to high. Did you have the heads machined when replacing gaskets? Sometimes the angle between the head and the intake changes enough that the intake does not seal to the heads. Pull the intake and look at the gasket to see if it is compressed all over. Auto parts stores do rent tools and you may be able to rent a pressure checker. |
I thought about it as a combination with the pressure test. Put colorant and
pressurize water jacket. That would be like home-brewed magnafluxing. Definitely on my "to do" list. Thanks for suggestion. "JamesgangNC" wrote in message ink.net... How about this. Fix up your closed cooling system and dump some food coloring into it. Then see where it shows up. "Paul" wrote in message ble.rogers.com... Yes, water was presesnt in all cylinders, all plugs were wet and most of the water was in the middle cyl. 4,6,3,7 but also in the rest of them. Intake passages are nicely red, so are the connecting cyl. head ports. I created a closed loop bypassing exhaust altogether, only the block, heads and intake was in the loop. Water inlet was inside the bucket, so was the outlet that would normally lead to exhaust manifolds. You could see the engine sucking from and throwing water back out into the bucket. Engine also takes the water running (steam) but it is all more apparent whan you shut down. I can't comprehend the idea of water travelling from one cyl to another. Cylinders are air-tight´and intake valve is open only during the downstroke so how could the piston push water out into the intake (?). That would make the engine fail any compression test wouldn't it? As to compression, it is 150-170 on all cyl. Head gaskets were replaced and old ones were still good, no problem. Bottom of the carb is quite badly rusted indicating that it has freq. contact with water (?). This is a major leak and lots of water enters the engine and cylinders. "rmcinnis" wrote in message ... "Paul" wrote in message . cable.rogers.com... After taking the boat out just a few times this your I couldn't crank the engine anymore. Replaced the starter, removed all spark plugs, cranked and fount all cylinders in a 5L V8 OMC 305 engine flooded. Does this mean that water came out of all 8 cylinders after yo had removed the plugs? Since all 8 cyl. were flooded at the same time with fresh water I do not suspect exhaust. (verified by creating a closed loop coolant system and eliminating exhaust altogether). I am not sure what you mean here. How does creating a closed loop cooling eliminate the exhaust? Did you create a closed loop cooling system, run the motor and have all 8 cylinders fill with water again? When you ran the motor this way, did you not have any water running through the exhaust system? My suspect is a leak between cooling passages and cylinders intakes in the intake manifold. Can't also imagine how a cracked block would flood all 8 cyl. at once. If I understand the situation properly it doesn't sound like the water enters the cylinder(s) while the engine is running, but rather after the engine is shut down. If you get water into one cylinder it is easy for it to migrate to the other cylinders, all it takes is for the intake valve to be open. The water will flow from the flooded cylinder up into the intake manifold. At least one other intake valve will be open at the same time which means it will flood also. When you crank the engine the remaining cylinders will draw in any water remaining in the intake manifold and they will flood as well. You apparently have a leak between the water jacket and either a cylinder directly or into the intake manifold. This could be from a gasket failure, either the head gasket (fairly common failure) or the intake manifold gasket (pretty rare, but certainly possible). If the failure is in the head gasket a compression check should show which cylinder is the problem. If the problem is not a gasket then I would bet that the intake manifold has rusted through to the cooling system. If you still have your "closed system" rigged up try pressurizing it and seeing if it holds pressure. This is a standard test on radiator systems, and you can purchase a small pump and pressure guage that installs in place of the radiator cap for this purpose. The cooling system should be able to hold 13 PSI without any significant loss. Rod |
I took it apart already. It wasn't perfect as it lacked caps to make it good
for pressure testing. I lead the engine water inlet into the bucket. Both outlets on the thermostat housing were connected with the "T" connector and the outlet was also put into the bucket. The engine was running with a closed loop feeding itself from the bucket (also spitting out into it). About 10-15 min. into this the engine was reaching its temperature's "operating range" mid-point.. Impeller was out. It ran pretty well so I was optimistic. That has proven to be short lived. Yesterday I spoke with the engine rebuilder and his judgment was "bad intake" (rusted through or cracked). For now I'm kind of tired with rerigging the engine again to I've pretty much decided to replace the intake. My approach is this: it is a § 100 fix, if successful I'm set. Since after the intake replacement I'd have to pressure test water-jacket anyway I decided to do it afterwards. I'm going to get the vacuum tester and I'll have a better idea as to the intake, valves, head gasket etc. performance. But that will be done after the intake replacement. I'll also need to stop by a local church to make a donation, just in case... "rmcinnis" wrote in message ... "Paul" wrote in message . cable.rogers.com... After taking the boat out just a few times this your I couldn't crank the engine anymore. Replaced the starter, removed all spark plugs, cranked and fount all cylinders in a 5L V8 OMC 305 engine flooded. Does this mean that water came out of all 8 cylinders after yo had removed the plugs? Since all 8 cyl. were flooded at the same time with fresh water I do not suspect exhaust. (verified by creating a closed loop coolant system and eliminating exhaust altogether). I am not sure what you mean here. How does creating a closed loop cooling eliminate the exhaust? Did you create a closed loop cooling system, run the motor and have all 8 cylinders fill with water again? When you ran the motor this way, did you not have any water running through the exhaust system? My suspect is a leak between cooling passages and cylinders intakes in the intake manifold. Can't also imagine how a cracked block would flood all 8 cyl. at once. If I understand the situation properly it doesn't sound like the water enters the cylinder(s) while the engine is running, but rather after the engine is shut down. If you get water into one cylinder it is easy for it to migrate to the other cylinders, all it takes is for the intake valve to be open. The water will flow from the flooded cylinder up into the intake manifold. At least one other intake valve will be open at the same time which means it will flood also. When you crank the engine the remaining cylinders will draw in any water remaining in the intake manifold and they will flood as well. You apparently have a leak between the water jacket and either a cylinder directly or into the intake manifold. This could be from a gasket failure, either the head gasket (fairly common failure) or the intake manifold gasket (pretty rare, but certainly possible). If the failure is in the head gasket a compression check should show which cylinder is the problem. If the problem is not a gasket then I would bet that the intake manifold has rusted through to the cooling system. If you still have your "closed system" rigged up try pressurizing it and seeing if it holds pressure. This is a standard test on radiator systems, and you can purchase a small pump and pressure guage that installs in place of the radiator cap for this purpose. The cooling system should be able to hold 13 PSI without any significant loss. Rod |
"basskisser" wrote in message Why? All you need is a non-relieving cap with 1/4" nipple, available at NAPA for less than $10, a low pressure gauge, and your air compressor, even the little tiny ones will work. I am not sure how you would make that tool. It wouldn't be hard to drill a clearance hole in the outer bracket of the radiator cap. The pipe, as you describe, would probably fit down the center of the pressure relief spring okay. What I don't see is how you fasten the pipe to the seal surface without destroying the sealing surface and/or gasket and make sure that it doesn't become a source of leaks. Since he would need to be jury-rigging the closed loop system he could just simply not use a radiator cap. Simply close the system with a pair of hose barbs fitted into regular old pipe. With a Tee and some reducer bushings you could arrange for a tire valve and pressure guage with ease. Just be real careful with the pressure if you don't have the pressure relief of the radiator cap. I would recommend a hand pump instead of an air compressor. Rod |
I did the pressure test today. Filled the engine with water, closed the
cooling system and eliminated manifolds from the loop. Then applied 20 psi pressure to the cooling system (water jacket). It held easily for 20 min. no change (twice). The pressure dropped sligthly when I was cranking the engine with plugs out while keeping cooling sys. pressurized.. Spoke with a local rebuilder that suggested the above while canking the engine and watching for water appearing in cylinders (coming out of plug sockets), crankcase or elsewhere. Drained the oil and watched for water dripping from underneath. Nada. Filled both manifolds (with raisers) with water to look for leaks. None. I guess that I got to check them under pressure. In summary, no obvious leaks. There may be some (tiny) there that might show if the engine is warm. That would be my next step I guess. As advised here I built a tool for pressure testing using a piece of plastic 3/4 inch pipe, plastic screw-on cap and a tire valve that I installed in a cap. Worked great. Used a small compressor (tire type) to apply pressure and since its gauge was constanlty showing pressure changes I knew exactly what's happening. Despite that there's no pregress locating the leak. Any ideas? "rmcinnis" wrote in message ... "basskisser" wrote in message Why? All you need is a non-relieving cap with 1/4" nipple, available at NAPA for less than $10, a low pressure gauge, and your air compressor, even the little tiny ones will work. I am not sure how you would make that tool. It wouldn't be hard to drill a clearance hole in the outer bracket of the radiator cap. The pipe, as you describe, would probably fit down the center of the pressure relief spring okay. What I don't see is how you fasten the pipe to the seal surface without destroying the sealing surface and/or gasket and make sure that it doesn't become a source of leaks. Since he would need to be jury-rigging the closed loop system he could just simply not use a radiator cap. Simply close the system with a pair of hose barbs fitted into regular old pipe. With a Tee and some reducer bushings you could arrange for a tire valve and pressure guage with ease. Just be real careful with the pressure if you don't have the pressure relief of the radiator cap. I would recommend a hand pump instead of an air compressor. Rod |
On Thu, 30 Sep 2004 04:19:57 -0400, "Paul" wrote:
I did the pressure test today. Filled the engine with water, closed the cooling system and eliminated manifolds from the loop. Then applied 20 psi pressure to the cooling system (water jacket). It held easily for 20 min. no change (twice). The pressure dropped sligthly when I was cranking the engine with plugs out while keeping cooling sys. pressurized.. Spoke with a local rebuilder that suggested the above while canking the engine and watching for water appearing in cylinders (coming out of plug sockets), crankcase or elsewhere. Drained the oil and watched for water dripping from underneath. Nada. Filled both manifolds (with raisers) with water to look for leaks. None. I guess that I got to check them under pressure. In summary, no obvious leaks. There may be some (tiny) there that might show if the engine is warm. That would be my next step I guess. As advised here I built a tool for pressure testing using a piece of plastic 3/4 inch pipe, plastic screw-on cap and a tire valve that I installed in a cap. Worked great. Used a small compressor (tire type) to apply pressure and since its gauge was constanlty showing pressure changes I knew exactly what's happening. Despite that there's no pregress locating the leak. Any ideas? Gasket maybe? I don't think a head gasket, but maybe a water pump? That's a head scratcher, I agree. Later, Tom |
Even though I thought that it is least probable, I have to say that leaking
manifolds/raisers (when hot and under pressure) would be the most likely explanation. Now I need to figure out how to test them properly. One last thing to do would be to pressure test the engine agaiin when hot. My initial intake theory seem to appear less likely now although still not impossible, not yet. It's really getting annoying "Short Wave Sportfishing" wrote in message ... On Thu, 30 Sep 2004 04:19:57 -0400, "Paul" wrote: I did the pressure test today. Filled the engine with water, closed the cooling system and eliminated manifolds from the loop. Then applied 20 psi pressure to the cooling system (water jacket). It held easily for 20 min. no change (twice). The pressure dropped sligthly when I was cranking the engine with plugs out while keeping cooling sys. pressurized.. Spoke with a local rebuilder that suggested the above while canking the engine and watching for water appearing in cylinders (coming out of plug sockets), crankcase or elsewhere. Drained the oil and watched for water dripping from underneath. Nada. Filled both manifolds (with raisers) with water to look for leaks. None. I guess that I got to check them under pressure. In summary, no obvious leaks. There may be some (tiny) there that might show if the engine is warm. That would be my next step I guess. As advised here I built a tool for pressure testing using a piece of plastic 3/4 inch pipe, plastic screw-on cap and a tire valve that I installed in a cap. Worked great. Used a small compressor (tire type) to apply pressure and since its gauge was constanlty showing pressure changes I knew exactly what's happening. Despite that there's no pregress locating the leak. Any ideas? Gasket maybe? I don't think a head gasket, but maybe a water pump? That's a head scratcher, I agree. Later, Tom |
On Thu, 30 Sep 2004 12:36:59 -0400, "Paul" wrote:
Even though I thought that it is least probable, I have to say that leaking manifolds/raisers (when hot and under pressure) would be the most likely explanation. Now I need to figure out how to test them properly. One last thing to do would be to pressure test the engine agaiin when hot. My initial intake theory seem to appear less likely now although still not impossible, not yet. It's really getting annoying I totally understand. I went through something similar last year with a family member - ignition problem which took forever to find. Annoying as hell. I mean, it's only fuel, air, spark right? :) Good luck. Later, Tom ----------- "Angling may be said to be so like the mathematics that it can never be fully learnt..." Izaak Walton "The Compleat Angler", 1653 |
if your engine has seen any salt water service definately check your
risers and manifolds. typically 5 year old risers/manifolds need replacement in salt water environments. manifolds are easy to check, doing similar to your engine cooling system check, however just use hose pressure, after plating the area the riser bolts on, then visually inspecting the exhaust ports for water. if the manifold checks out and the engine checks out like it has it must be your risers or you are taking water in thru the exhausts due to missing/broken flappers in the y pipe. "Paul" wrote in message ... I did the pressure test today. Filled the engine with water, closed the cooling system and eliminated manifolds from the loop. Then applied 20 psi pressure to the cooling system (water jacket). It held easily for 20 min. no change (twice). The pressure dropped sligthly when I was cranking the engine with plugs out while keeping cooling sys. pressurized.. Spoke with a local rebuilder that suggested the above while canking the engine and watching for water appearing in cylinders (coming out of plug sockets), crankcase or elsewhere. Drained the oil and watched for water dripping from underneath. Nada. Filled both manifolds (with raisers) with water to look for leaks. None. I guess that I got to check them under pressure. In summary, no obvious leaks. There may be some (tiny) there that might show if the engine is warm. That would be my next step I guess. As advised here I built a tool for pressure testing using a piece of plastic 3/4 inch pipe, plastic screw-on cap and a tire valve that I installed in a cap. Worked great. Used a small compressor (tire type) to apply pressure and since its gauge was constanlty showing pressure changes I knew exactly what's happening. Despite that there's no pregress locating the leak. Any ideas? "rmcinnis" wrote in message ... "basskisser" wrote in message Why? All you need is a non-relieving cap with 1/4" nipple, available at NAPA for less than $10, a low pressure gauge, and your air compressor, even the little tiny ones will work. I am not sure how you would make that tool. It wouldn't be hard to drill a clearance hole in the outer bracket of the radiator cap. The pipe, as you describe, would probably fit down the center of the pressure relief spring okay. What I don't see is how you fasten the pipe to the seal surface without destroying the sealing surface and/or gasket and make sure that it doesn't become a source of leaks. Since he would need to be jury-rigging the closed loop system he could just simply not use a radiator cap. Simply close the system with a pair of hose barbs fitted into regular old pipe. With a Tee and some reducer bushings you could arrange for a tire valve and pressure guage with ease. Just be real careful with the pressure if you don't have the pressure relief of the radiator cap. I would recommend a hand pump instead of an air compressor. Rod |
"Paul" wrote in message ...
I did the pressure test today. Filled the engine with water, closed the cooling system and eliminated manifolds from the loop. Then applied 20 psi pressure to the cooling system (water jacket). It held easily for 20 min. no change (twice). The pressure dropped sligthly when I was cranking the engine with plugs out while keeping cooling sys. pressurized.. Spoke with a local rebuilder that suggested the above while canking the engine and watching for water appearing in cylinders (coming out of plug sockets), crankcase or elsewhere. Drained the oil and watched for water dripping from underneath. Nada. Filled both manifolds (with raisers) with water to look for leaks. None. I guess that I got to check them under pressure. In summary, no obvious leaks. There may be some (tiny) there that might show if the engine is warm. That would be my next step I guess. As advised here I built a tool for pressure testing using a piece of plastic 3/4 inch pipe, plastic screw-on cap and a tire valve that I installed in a cap. Worked great. Used a small compressor (tire type) to apply pressure and since its gauge was constanlty showing pressure changes I knew exactly what's happening. Despite that there's no pregress locating the leak. Any ideas? Years ago in Popular Mechanics or Mechanix Illustrated there was an auto repair genius who had monthly stories that solved conundrums such as yours. In one story he described a pressure testing device where he broke the porcelan off an old spark plug and brazed a tire valve onto it. He would screw it into a cylinder and put some air to it and #1, listen at the exhaust pipe for leaky exhaust valves, #2,listen in the carburator for leaky intake valves, #3, listen at the crankase breather tube for leaky rings, #4, look in the radiator for bubbles indicating a bad head gasket.I don't know if this would help you at all but from what I can follow in this saga of your's you've only applied 20# of pressure to the cooling system "in general" to the outside of the cylinders and maybe if you can apply 100#+ pressure to each cylinder "specifically" from the inside it might narrow down your search as to "where" the problem is and might give some clue as to "what" the problem is. If you ever do find out what the problem is, be sure to post it. |
Short Wave Sportfishing wrote in message . ..
I totally understand. I went through something similar last year with a family member - ignition problem which took forever to find. Good luck. Later, Tom Too much bran? :o) |
Just finished testing the manifolds. The rebuilder I spoke with suggested
attaching a water hose to manifold cooling water inlet and letting the water run through manifold raiser. Did as advised and no single drop of water spotted. Even though the boat has seen salt water raiser/manifold duo is holding up. I have not plated the manifold as I expected to see at least some localized "sweating" that would indicate leak potential. Don't know if I should be happy or not. Assuming the manifolds are OK I'm back to the engine troubleshooting. What puzzles me is that water is present in all cylinders as well as crankcase. Cylinders are flooded with substantial amount of water (1-4 oz. with most in the middle cyl. on both sides. Last time I changed the oil I had about 2 qt. of water (wow!). This is must be some leak...(!). I'm slowly loosing my mind.(and patience). Suggestions? "BenC" wrote in message om... if your engine has seen any salt water service definately check your risers and manifolds. typically 5 year old risers/manifolds need replacement in salt water environments. manifolds are easy to check, doing similar to your engine cooling system check, however just use hose pressure, after plating the area the riser bolts on, then visually inspecting the exhaust ports for water. if the manifold checks out and the engine checks out like it has it must be your risers or you are taking water in thru the exhausts due to missing/broken flappers in the y pipe. "Paul" wrote in message ... I did the pressure test today. Filled the engine with water, closed the cooling system and eliminated manifolds from the loop. Then applied 20 psi pressure to the cooling system (water jacket). It held easily for 20 min. no change (twice). The pressure dropped sligthly when I was cranking the engine with plugs out while keeping cooling sys. pressurized.. Spoke with a local rebuilder that suggested the above while canking the engine and watching for water appearing in cylinders (coming out of plug sockets), crankcase or elsewhere. Drained the oil and watched for water dripping from underneath. Nada. Filled both manifolds (with raisers) with water to look for leaks. None. I guess that I got to check them under pressure. In summary, no obvious leaks. There may be some (tiny) there that might show if the engine is warm. That would be my next step I guess. As advised here I built a tool for pressure testing using a piece of plastic 3/4 inch pipe, plastic screw-on cap and a tire valve that I installed in a cap. Worked great. Used a small compressor (tire type) to apply pressure and since its gauge was constanlty showing pressure changes I knew exactly what's happening. Despite that there's no pregress locating the leak. Any ideas? "rmcinnis" wrote in message ... "basskisser" wrote in message Why? All you need is a non-relieving cap with 1/4" nipple, available at NAPA for less than $10, a low pressure gauge, and your air compressor, even the little tiny ones will work. I am not sure how you would make that tool. It wouldn't be hard to drill a clearance hole in the outer bracket of the radiator cap. The pipe, as you describe, would probably fit down the center of the pressure relief spring okay. What I don't see is how you fasten the pipe to the seal surface without destroying the sealing surface and/or gasket and make sure that it doesn't become a source of leaks. Since he would need to be jury-rigging the closed loop system he could just simply not use a radiator cap. Simply close the system with a pair of hose barbs fitted into regular old pipe. With a Tee and some reducer bushings you could arrange for a tire valve and pressure guage with ease. Just be real careful with the pressure if you don't have the pressure relief of the radiator cap. I would recommend a hand pump instead of an air compressor. Rod |
Let me guess, ignition module?
"Sam" wrote in message om... Short Wave Sportfishing wrote in message . .. I totally understand. I went through something similar last year with a family member - ignition problem which took forever to find. Good luck. Later, Tom Too much bran? :o) |
On Fri, 1 Oct 2004 23:25:22 -0400, "Paul" wrote:
Let me guess, ignition module? Two of them - back-to-back. First one failed, replaced it with a new one, that one failed within two runs. Unbelievable. :) Later, Tom |
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