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Getting two section paddles apart- saltwater corrosion -Help needed
I borrowed my daughter's kayak which has paddles that come apart that I
didn't take apart and rinse after going into salt water. Now I can't get one apart. Some corrosion inside. They are aluminum tubes that slide into each other that are corroded. Any ideas on some type of spray lubricant or other type of spray that I could spray inside to see if that would help? Also, I can't use much heat because paddles covered with plastic type coating, but I am wondering if a hair dryer my help. |
"Rick and Frances Cansler" wrote in message ... I borrowed my daughter's kayak which has paddles that come apart that I didn't take apart and rinse after going into salt water. Now I can't get one apart. Some corrosion inside. They are aluminum tubes that slide into each other that are corroded. Any ideas on some type of spray lubricant or other type of spray that I could spray inside to see if that would help? Also, I can't use much heat because paddles covered with plastic type coating, but I am wondering if a hair dryer my help. Hmmm, a hair dryer cant hurt, but I think Aluminum doesn't expand much in heat, so I wouldn't hope for much. If you DO use the hairdryer, first try to cool off the tubes by packing ice around them, then quickly heat it so the inside one stays cool, the outside one heats. Or try using some WD40 right in the seam, then get a friend and each of you pull apart. Not from separate sides: each of you hold a hand on each side of the paddle (as if you were pulling alone) and pull. That works much better. Even three people can pull. Before you use the WD40, though, try leaving it in the bathtub for 10 minutes. There might just be salt condensed in the seam, which freshwater will dissolve out. good luck --riverman |
WD40
Soak ... Soak ... Soak ... Soak ... Two people twist ... in about a week ... That's my guess ... Had this happen to me. Mike Goodman High Point, NC |
"KAYAKFAN" wrote...
WD40 Soak ... Soak ... Soak ... Soak ... Two people twist ... in about a week ... WD-40 may work, but a penetrating oil may work faster, depending on the degree of corrosion... |
KAYAKFAN ) writes: WD40 Soak ... Soak ... Soak ... Soak ... tap, tap, tap for rusty bolts on the car I use 2 applications of WD40 per day with some gentle tapping an twisting - takes about 3 days Two people twist ... in about a week ... That's my guess ... Had this happen to me. Mike Goodman High Point, NC -- ------------------------------------------------------------------------------ William R Watt National Capital FreeNet Ottawa's free community network homepage: www.ncf.ca/~ag384/top.htm warning: non-FreeNet email must have "notspam" in subject or it's returned |
Thanks for great suggestions. I know that this will take time and patience!
"William R. Watt" wrote in message ... KAYAKFAN ) writes: WD40 Soak ... Soak ... Soak ... Soak ... tap, tap, tap for rusty bolts on the car I use 2 applications of WD40 per day with some gentle tapping an twisting - takes about 3 days Two people twist ... in about a week ... That's my guess ... Had this happen to me. Mike Goodman High Point, NC -- -------------------------------------------------------------------------- ---- William R Watt National Capital FreeNet Ottawa's free community network homepage: www.ncf.ca/~ag384/top.htm warning: non-FreeNet email must have "notspam" in subject or it's returned |
riverman wrote:
Hmmm, a hair dryer cant hurt, but I think Aluminum doesn't expand much in heat, so I wouldn't hope for much. Actually, aluminum has a very high coeffiecient of thermal expansion, much more than most other metals. |
tip of the week...... stand on end....the blade connected to the female side
towards the ground. Smear petrolium jelly of choice around the joined pieces. Use a heat gun, as hair dryer is not quite hot enough, the jelly melts and while still hot, 2 person twist should do it. "Galen Hekhuis" wrote in message ... On 12 Sep 2004 20:40:01 GMT, (William R. Watt) wrote: KAYAKFAN ) writes: WD40 Soak ... Soak ... Soak ... Soak ... tap, tap, tap I heartily agree with the tap, tap, tapping. NOT pound, pound, pound. Lots of gentle tapping, maybe even for hours. Oh yeah, wiggle, wiggle, wiggle, too. Rinse. Repeat. __ Galen Hekhuis NpD, JFR, GWA Illiterate? Write for FREE help |
On Mon, 13 Sep 2004 23:00:11 -0400, "Mike B" wrote:
tip of the week...... stand on end....the blade connected to the female side towards the ground. Smear petrolium jelly of choice around the joined pieces. Use a heat gun, as hair dryer is not quite hot enough, the jelly melts and while still hot, 2 person twist should do it. Either that, or you could just convince yourself that you really wanted a one-piece paddle in the first place, put some duct tape on the joint, and marvel at how well it holds. "Galen Hekhuis" wrote in message .. . On 12 Sep 2004 20:40:01 GMT, (William R. Watt) wrote: KAYAKFAN ) writes: WD40 Soak ... Soak ... Soak ... Soak ... tap, tap, tap I heartily agree with the tap, tap, tapping. NOT pound, pound, pound. Lots of gentle tapping, maybe even for hours. Oh yeah, wiggle, wiggle, wiggle, too. Rinse. Repeat. __ Galen Hekhuis NpD, JFR, GWA Illiterate? Write for FREE help |
"Mike B" wrote in message ... tip of the week...... stand on end....the blade connected to the female side towards the ground. Smear petrolium jelly of choice around the joined pieces. Use a heat gun, as hair dryer is not quite hot enough, the jelly melts and while still hot, 2 person twist should do it. Why not use some technical skills? Connect one end to a tree by tossing a clove hitch around the shaft down by the blade, then tie a loop with another clove hitch on the other side of the paddle, rig the running end up with a 3-to-1 or 9-to-1 Z Drag, squirt some penetrating oil in there, and just haul on the rope until it comes apart. I've seen rafts full-on postage-stamped under waterfalls get dragged free with a 9-to-1, so I couldn't image some little wimpy aluminum ions standing a chance. Once its under tension, I bet a mild rap with a hammer would launch those two ends APART! --riverman who loves it when we talk this way. |
One of the few "brute force" success I ever had was when i removed a
broken wooden blade from a carbon fiber oar shaft where the blade had been GLUED into the shaft. Obviously no amount of WD-40 or twisting was going to get that off, so I connected some spectra to the blade and tied that to a tree. Tied another piece of spectra to the oar shaft (needed to use a clove hitch) and connected it to the front tow hook of my SUV. I made sure that the force I was about to put on the blade/oars was aligned with how I wanted the blade to exit, put the SUV in 4wd low lock (excessive, any car would do) and eased back on the clutch. it worked surprisingly well, though I though for sure something would break and lurch into the bumper of my car. "riverman" wrote in message ... "Mike B" wrote in message ... tip of the week...... stand on end....the blade connected to the female side towards the ground. Smear petrolium jelly of choice around the joined pieces. Use a heat gun, as hair dryer is not quite hot enough, the jelly melts and while still hot, 2 person twist should do it. Why not use some technical skills? Connect one end to a tree by tossing a clove hitch around the shaft down by the blade, then tie a loop with another clove hitch on the other side of the paddle, rig the running end up with a 3-to-1 or 9-to-1 Z Drag, squirt some penetrating oil in there, and just haul on the rope until it comes apart. I've seen rafts full-on postage-stamped under waterfalls get dragged free with a 9-to-1, so I couldn't image some little wimpy aluminum ions standing a chance. Once its under tension, I bet a mild rap with a hammer would launch those two ends APART! --riverman who loves it when we talk this way. |
The Kern River wrote:
One of the few "brute force" success I ever had was when i removed a broken wooden blade from a carbon fiber oar shaft where the blade had been GLUED into the shaft. Obviously no amount of WD-40 or twisting was going to get that off, so I connected some spectra to the blade and tied that to a tree. Tied another piece of spectra to the oar shaft (needed to use a clove hitch) and connected it to the front tow hook of my SUV. I made sure that the force I was about to put on the blade/oars was aligned with how I wanted the blade to exit, put the SUV in 4wd low lock (excessive, any car would do) and eased back on the clutch. it worked surprisingly well, though I though for sure something would break and lurch into the bumper of my car. Reminds me of the boy scout leader we had who used a similar approach. He used his Landrover to pull out the cracked axe shaft from an axe head. Tied one end of the thing to a tree, the other to his car, and started to drive... pulling down the entire tree. Good thing it didn't fall on his car. :-) We used axes with a wedge in the shaft from then on. -- Wilko van den Bergh wilko(a t)dse(d o t)nl Eindhoven The Netherlands Europe ---Look at the possibilities, don't worry about the limitations.--- http://wilko.webzone.ru/ |
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