Head Gasket on 50 HP 93 Evinrude
 

I'm getting ready to change the head gasket on my 50 HP Evinrude (1993).
#30 in upper Cyl, #120 or so in the lower one. I don't see any visible
signs of stuff squirting out the head gasket, so I am of the assumption
it's an internal breach with the water jacket as evidenced by the rust on
the sparkplug.

I got the Clymer book from the library, however that claims that you are
supposed to put a bead of some goop or other on the head gasket, and then
re-assemble, and torque the bolts down to 18-20 foot lbs. Could this be
right? I can nearly achieve 18 foot pounds with my fingers! I've never
seen an situation where the head bolts weren't torqued REALLY tight. I know
it's a small motor, but if someone could enlighten me as to why they
shouldn't be torqued down closer to 50 lbs (other than obviously the book
says don't.) Another thing, I was told in some applications you should get
the motor hot, and then re-torque the bolts again, and run it for some
period of time, and repeat the procedure. Anyone know anything about that?
That process is missing from the book as well.

I am unclear as to why the head gasket blew in the first place, there is
plenty of water coming out the telltale, and the engine alarm never went
off. A friend suggested I check the tightness of the head bolts, and they
were VERY loose, particularly the bolts on the top Cyl, the one with #30 of
pressure.

Thanks.

-BrianDP

Head Gasket on 50 HP 93 Evinrude
 

It is aluminum, not steel that you are screwing in to. Go with the book.
After running the motor for a while, just retorque the head.
Bill

"dp" wrote in message
...
I'm getting ready to change the head gasket on my 50 HP Evinrude (1993).
#30 in upper Cyl, #120 or so in the lower one. I don't see any visible
signs of stuff squirting out the head gasket, so I am of the assumption
it's an internal breach with the water jacket as evidenced by the rust on
the sparkplug.

I got the Clymer book from the library, however that claims that you are
supposed to put a bead of some goop or other on the head gasket, and then
re-assemble, and torque the bolts down to 18-20 foot lbs. Could this be
right? I can nearly achieve 18 foot pounds with my fingers! I've never
seen an situation where the head bolts weren't torqued REALLY tight. I
know
it's a small motor, but if someone could enlighten me as to why they
shouldn't be torqued down closer to 50 lbs (other than obviously the book
says don't.) Another thing, I was told in some applications you should
get
the motor hot, and then re-torque the bolts again, and run it for some
period of time, and repeat the procedure. Anyone know anything about
that?
That process is missing from the book as well.

I am unclear as to why the head gasket blew in the first place, there is
plenty of water coming out the telltale, and the engine alarm never went
off. A friend suggested I check the tightness of the head bolts, and they
were VERY loose, particularly the bolts on the top Cyl, the one with #30
of
pressure.

Thanks.

-BrianDP

Head Gasket on 50 HP 93 Evinrude
 

"Calif Bill" wrote in message link.net...
It is aluminum, not steel that you are screwing in to. Go with the book.
After running the motor for a while, just retorque the head.
Bill

I agree with Bill. If you over torque bolts into aluminum, you are
just asking for big trouble. Been there, done that. It isn't nice when
you pull the threads out of the aluminum.