Winterizing ideas for 4.3l Volvo twins needed.
 

1993 Chaparral Signature, twin 4.3 Volvo duoprops. I've winterized it myself
for several years without problems except for one. The location of the plugs in
the engine blocks (not too bad but still a pain to remove as I get older), but
more than that, the brass plugs in the back of the exhaust manifolds! Those
things are always a bear to remove. I've heard that Merc now uses plastic plugs
instead of the brass. Sounds like that might be easier. Also, there's very
little room back there and they are always in real tight. There's no good way
to get leverage on the wrench and everything's in the way. I eventually get all
4 of them out (2 engines), but it's an hour job and I'm beat when I'm done.

Any ideas on how to make this easier? I thought about a plug with a nipple for
a hose or something but there's not nearly enough room. I can't even use a
socket on those plugs, only a closed end wrench will fit. I suspect I'm
probably re-inserting them way too tight for the application. Also, is there a
'better' type of grease to use to make removal easier that works with brass and
steel?

I know it's a once a year job, but I really don't look forward to it.

I saw a winterizing kit on the internet that includes a manifold of shutoffs
and special plugs but the price was ridiculous and it was only for Mercs.

Thanks for any feedback,

The human pretzel

Winterizing ideas for 4.3l Volvo twins needed.
 

Teflon tape and yes, you are probably tightening them too much.

"Wklkj" wrote in message
...
1993 Chaparral Signature, twin 4.3 Volvo duoprops. I've winterized it
myself
for several years without problems except for one. The location of the
plugs in
the engine blocks (not too bad but still a pain to remove as I get older),
but
more than that, the brass plugs in the back of the exhaust manifolds!
Those
things are always a bear to remove. I've heard that Merc now uses plastic
plugs
instead of the brass. Sounds like that might be easier. Also, there's very
little room back there and they are always in real tight. There's no good
way
to get leverage on the wrench and everything's in the way. I eventually
get all
4 of them out (2 engines), but it's an hour job and I'm beat when I'm
done.

Any ideas on how to make this easier? I thought about a plug with a nipple
for
a hose or something but there's not nearly enough room. I can't even use a
socket on those plugs, only a closed end wrench will fit. I suspect I'm
probably re-inserting them way too tight for the application. Also, is
there a
'better' type of grease to use to make removal easier that works with
brass and
steel?

I know it's a once a year job, but I really don't look forward to it.

I saw a winterizing kit on the internet that includes a manifold of
shutoffs
and special plugs but the price was ridiculous and it was only for Mercs.

Thanks for any feedback,

The human pretzel

Winterizing ideas for 4.3l Volvo twins needed.
 

I realize you don't have much space, but could you put a "street ell" brass
pipe fitting and a pipe nipple with a cap to drain the manifolds? The
cube-type elbow probably wouldn't take much more space than the plug you're
dealing with.

You might also want to coat the threads with "Never-Seez" (thread-sealing
anti-seize compound).

Good luck!

"Wklkj" wrote in message
...

Any ideas on how to make this easier? I thought about a plug with a nipple
for
a hose or something but there's not nearly enough room. I can't even use a
socket on those plugs, only a closed end wrench will fit. I suspect I'm
probably re-inserting them way too tight for the application. Also, is
there a
'better' type of grease to use to make removal easier that works with
brass and
steel?

Winterizing ideas for 4.3l Volvo twins needed.
 

"Snafu" wrote in
ink.net:

I realize you don't have much space, but could you put a "street ell"
brass pipe fitting and a pipe nipple with a cap to drain the
manifolds? The cube-type elbow probably wouldn't take much more
space than the plug you're dealing with.

You might also want to coat the threads with "Never-Seez"
(thread-sealing anti-seize compound).

Good luck!

"Wklkj" wrote in message
...

A




Actually it is easier to run the motor on a flusher to bring it to
operating temp the use a small pump and pressure anti freeze to the lower
unit while on the same flusher. Do not water down the anti freeze because
the water contained in the motors cooling system will mix it down any
way. I have a plastic tub that I set uinder the drive to catch the
circulated mixture. I fill the tub with anti freeze and pump from there.
This way I do not allow the anti freeze to come into contact with the
ground. I use the same process to commission the boat in the spring and
also capture the anti freeze that comes out. Been doing this for over 30
years and never had a freeze up. Good luck