|
OBDii scanner
I want to buy one of those code scanners. Anyone have any experience with them, recommendations,
etc. My check engine light is on, and I've had it scanned, but it seems like one of those scanners might be a worthwhile investment. |
OBDii scanner
My #2 son gave me one a couple Christmas ago.
I've had no use for it driving reliable new Toyotas, but he used it a number of times on his Dodge Charger and one of his buddies vehicles. Believe he has to take the error code from the reader and use his smartphone to access a Site where he enters the code and gets the details. |
OBDii scanner
On 6/30/14, 2:01 PM, True North wrote:
My #2 son gave me one a couple Christmas ago. I've had no use for it driving reliable new Toyotas, but he used it a number of times on his Dodge Charger and one of his buddies vehicles. Believe he has to take the error code from the reader and use his smartphone to access a Site where he enters the code and gets the details. Herring needs to be scanned for Alzheimers... -- If right-wing assholes could fly, rec.boats would be an airport! |
OBDii scanner
On 6/30/2014 1:32 PM, Poquito Loco wrote:
I want to buy one of those code scanners. Anyone have any experience with them, recommendations, etc. My check engine light is on, and I've had it scanned, but it seems like one of those scanners might be a worthwhile investment. Don't know if you can do it on yours, but my old Chevys would let you jump the prongs on the connector under the dash (they acutally made a tool for it that went on your keyring) and you would see the code flashed on the check engine light. Don't you have a big diesel? The other option might be to chip the thing, I would imagine you would get some kind of connector and software with that setup... |
OBDii scanner
On 6/30/2014 1:32 PM, Poquito Loco wrote:
I want to buy one of those code scanners. Anyone have any experience with them, recommendations, etc. My check engine light is on, and I've had it scanned, but it seems like one of those scanners might be a worthwhile investment. Sorry, forgot to mention, most auto parts places will scan you for free if you stop in.. But of course then you gotta' drive there after the repair etc.... |
OBDii scanner
On 6/30/2014 1:32 PM, Poquito Loco wrote:
I want to buy one of those code scanners. Anyone have any experience with them, recommendations, etc. My check engine light is on, and I've had it scanned, but it seems like one of those scanners might be a worthwhile investment. Loose gas cap? Auto parts stores will scan codes for you for free. -- "I predict future happiness for Americans if they can prevent the government from wasting the labors of the people under the pretense of taking care of them". Thomas Jefferson |
OBDii scanner
On Monday, June 30, 2014 1:32:09 PM UTC-4, John H. wrote:
I want to buy one of those code scanners. Anyone have any experience with them, recommendations, etc. My check engine light is on, and I've had it scanned, but it seems like one of those scanners might be a worthwhile investment. I have an Actron that works just fine. As Greg said, they won't read the manufacturer extended codes (chassis, special controllers, etc.), but they will read the basic engine codes. I have an indy mechanic that has the Chevy specific tool. He read the codes on the 'vette when the brake and traction control module went out. It was still under warranty, so he sent me off to the dealer and didn't charge me a dime. The 'vette is now gone and an Audi A6 has taken it's place. It has the same issue as all new vehicles in that the reader only pulls the most basic codes. The aftermarket reader for it is a $350 software and cable package you run on a laptop. It allows you access to a ton of features and settings that only the dealer can see. Stuff like turning on the window up/down from your keyfob, internal and external lighting settings, playing DVDs on the screen while moving, etc. And many service modes, too. With the 100k mile warranty, I doubt I'll pop for it, though. |
OBDii scanner
On 6/30/2014 2:44 PM, F*O*A*D wrote:
On 6/30/14, 2:01 PM, True North wrote: My #2 son gave me one a couple Christmas ago. I've had no use for it driving reliable new Toyotas, but he used it a number of times on his Dodge Charger and one of his buddies vehicles. Believe he has to take the error code from the reader and use his smartphone to access a Site where he enters the code and gets the details. Herring needs to be scanned for Alzheimers... Count on Krause to be a ****head. -- "I predict future happiness for Americans if they can prevent the government from wasting the labors of the people under the pretense of taking care of them". Thomas Jefferson |
OBDii scanner
|
OBDii scanner
|
OBDii scanner
On Mon, 30 Jun 2014 11:01:57 -0700 (PDT), True North wrote:
My #2 son gave me one a couple Christmas ago. I've had no use for it driving reliable new Toyotas, but he used it a number of times on his Dodge Charger and one of his buddies vehicles. Believe he has to take the error code from the reader and use his smartphone to access a Site where he enters the code and gets the details. The smaller, cheaper ones provide nothing but the code. The one I'm considering provides the code and the meaning. The next one up, in the $200-250 range provides all that and adds possible fixes. They will work on Toyotas also. I'd thought my truck was quite reliable, but once your Toyota is out of warranty, it's nice to have a good idea of what a problem might be before getting ripped off. |
OBDii scanner
|
OBDii scanner
On Mon, 30 Jun 2014 15:33:21 -0400, H*a*r*r*o*l*d wrote:
On 6/30/2014 1:32 PM, Poquito Loco wrote: I want to buy one of those code scanners. Anyone have any experience with them, recommendations, etc. My check engine light is on, and I've had it scanned, but it seems like one of those scanners might be a worthwhile investment. Loose gas cap? Auto parts stores will scan codes for you for free. But then you've got to drive there. Not that big a deal though. |
OBDii scanner
On Mon, 30 Jun 2014 20:01:29 -0400, wrote:
On Mon, 30 Jun 2014 19:15:38 -0400, F*O*A*D wrote: On 6/30/14, 6:49 PM, wrote: On Mon, 30 Jun 2014 16:14:36 -0400, F*O*A*D wrote: That was the original GM system not the OBDII I know I need a scanner for my Ford truck and my Honda. There is no jumper trick that I can find documented anywhere. I have not really played with the bluetooh dongle much. The last time I had a light, I went to Autozone for a free scan. You need a scanner? Are you having a lot of car problems? Not really. I popped a code a couple years ago and I figured out there was no "jumper" option to flash it out. I went to the auto parts store and they scanned the code, sold me the part for $20 or so and I was good to go. I just bought this dongle because it was cheap and if the car would not start, it was better than having to tow it somewhere. In real life, cars and outboards are becoming so reliable that I have a hard time remembering when the last time I actually had to fix something. Even scheduled maintenance is minimal these days. My daily driver Toyota 4Runner just passed 200,000 miles without anything but routine maintenance...I replaced the original battery last week. replaced brake pads, oil and filters, of course, and a timing belt. That's it. That is actually pretty typical.. The sensor that threw the code in my truck was probably just dirty according to the guy at the store but I got a new one because I was there. He said it is common if you don't drive much. I may not do 1000 miles a year on that truck. Harry will let us know when he hits 500,000 with no problems. |
OBDii scanner
On Mon, 30 Jun 2014 15:41:52 -0400, H*a*r*r*o*l*d wrote:
On 6/30/2014 2:44 PM, F*O*A*D wrote: On 6/30/14, 2:01 PM, True North wrote: My #2 son gave me one a couple Christmas ago. I've had no use for it driving reliable new Toyotas, but he used it a number of times on his Dodge Charger and one of his buddies vehicles. Believe he has to take the error code from the reader and use his smartphone to access a Site where he enters the code and gets the details. Herring needs to be scanned for Alzheimers... Count on Krause to be a ****head. His MO. |
OBDii scanner
|
OBDii scanner
On 7/7/2014 3:27 PM, Poquito Loco wrote:
On Mon, 07 Jul 2014 14:05:36 -0400, wrote: On Mon, 07 Jul 2014 13:25:08 -0400, Poquito Loco wrote: On Mon, 30 Jun 2014 15:33:21 -0400, H*a*r*r*o*l*d wrote: On 6/30/2014 1:32 PM, Poquito Loco wrote: I want to buy one of those code scanners. Anyone have any experience with them, recommendations, etc. My check engine light is on, and I've had it scanned, but it seems like one of those scanners might be a worthwhile investment. Loose gas cap? Auto parts stores will scan codes for you for free. But then you've got to drive there. Not that big a deal though. That is all great if the code it throws still allows you to start the car. In my case the code was for the number one glow plug. Doesn't affect starting, unless it gets a lot colder! The code just gets me in the ball park. It could be a bad glow plug, the wire to the plug, the glow plug module, the wires to the module...only God knows where it may stop. I may have found a trustworthy repairman, though. Not the dealer. When I worked as a PFI diagnostics guy, the very first thing I went for was the fuse box.. Check every one, even seemingly unrelated ones. Then go for every connection and connector in the system where the code is and in the process, all power and grounds for the electrical system as I go along... Usually something comes up there. It's my opinion that (MOST!!!) "chip" or "module" failures are caused by either heat or trauma... if it's trauma, you will *hopefully* see it and there are easy ways to test (like hitting it with a hose:), if it's heat, then you gotta' go right back to connections and see what you missed..... Now I must put a disclaimer on my tech posts that none of what I say is set in stone, it's generalizations, and I may not even used the proper tense of a word or two but if you can get the general idea, it's easy to look beyond the spelling, grammar, and even nomenclature issues I may have .... thanks... phew..... |
OBDii scanner
On Mon, 07 Jul 2014 15:59:47 -0400, KC wrote:
On 7/7/2014 3:27 PM, Poquito Loco wrote: On Mon, 07 Jul 2014 14:05:36 -0400, wrote: On Mon, 07 Jul 2014 13:25:08 -0400, Poquito Loco wrote: On Mon, 30 Jun 2014 15:33:21 -0400, H*a*r*r*o*l*d wrote: On 6/30/2014 1:32 PM, Poquito Loco wrote: I want to buy one of those code scanners. Anyone have any experience with them, recommendations, etc. My check engine light is on, and I've had it scanned, but it seems like one of those scanners might be a worthwhile investment. Loose gas cap? Auto parts stores will scan codes for you for free. But then you've got to drive there. Not that big a deal though. That is all great if the code it throws still allows you to start the car. In my case the code was for the number one glow plug. Doesn't affect starting, unless it gets a lot colder! The code just gets me in the ball park. It could be a bad glow plug, the wire to the plug, the glow plug module, the wires to the module...only God knows where it may stop. I may have found a trustworthy repairman, though. Not the dealer. When I worked as a PFI diagnostics guy, the very first thing I went for was the fuse box.. Check every one, even seemingly unrelated ones. Then go for every connection and connector in the system where the code is and in the process, all power and grounds for the electrical system as I go along... Usually something comes up there. It's my opinion that (MOST!!!) "chip" or "module" failures are caused by either heat or trauma... if it's trauma, you will *hopefully* see it and there are easy ways to test (like hitting it with a hose:), if it's heat, then you gotta' go right back to connections and see what you missed..... Now I must put a disclaimer on my tech posts that none of what I say is set in stone, it's generalizations, and I may not even used the proper tense of a word or two but if you can get the general idea, it's easy to look beyond the spelling, grammar, and even nomenclature issues I may have .... thanks... phew..... I've not even started looking. First thing to be done is remove the passenger side wheel well cover. That is a daunting task all by itself. I've found some good info on glow plug testing. |
OBDii scanner
On 7/7/2014 4:02 PM, Poquito Loco wrote:
On Mon, 07 Jul 2014 15:59:47 -0400, KC wrote: On 7/7/2014 3:27 PM, Poquito Loco wrote: On Mon, 07 Jul 2014 14:05:36 -0400, wrote: On Mon, 07 Jul 2014 13:25:08 -0400, Poquito Loco wrote: On Mon, 30 Jun 2014 15:33:21 -0400, H*a*r*r*o*l*d wrote: On 6/30/2014 1:32 PM, Poquito Loco wrote: I want to buy one of those code scanners. Anyone have any experience with them, recommendations, etc. My check engine light is on, and I've had it scanned, but it seems like one of those scanners might be a worthwhile investment. Loose gas cap? Auto parts stores will scan codes for you for free. But then you've got to drive there. Not that big a deal though. That is all great if the code it throws still allows you to start the car. In my case the code was for the number one glow plug. Doesn't affect starting, unless it gets a lot colder! The code just gets me in the ball park. It could be a bad glow plug, the wire to the plug, the glow plug module, the wires to the module...only God knows where it may stop. I may have found a trustworthy repairman, though. Not the dealer. When I worked as a PFI diagnostics guy, the very first thing I went for was the fuse box.. Check every one, even seemingly unrelated ones. Then go for every connection and connector in the system where the code is and in the process, all power and grounds for the electrical system as I go along... Usually something comes up there. It's my opinion that (MOST!!!) "chip" or "module" failures are caused by either heat or trauma... if it's trauma, you will *hopefully* see it and there are easy ways to test (like hitting it with a hose:), if it's heat, then you gotta' go right back to connections and see what you missed..... Now I must put a disclaimer on my tech posts that none of what I say is set in stone, it's generalizations, and I may not even used the proper tense of a word or two but if you can get the general idea, it's easy to look beyond the spelling, grammar, and even nomenclature issues I may have .... thanks... phew..... I've not even started looking. First thing to be done is remove the passenger side wheel well cover. That is a daunting task all by itself. I've found some good info on glow plug testing. Yeah, any further than that with a Diesel, and I would be lost. When I did run into a legit fuel or air delivery problem my best diagnostic tools were a sniffer in the tail pipe to compare the O2, CO2, and HydroCarbon levels to the firing pattern of the plugs on the Occilliscope where I could see if individual plugs were burning lean or rich, etc... Without a spark plug pattern, I would be lost:) |
OBDii scanner
|
OBDii scanner
|
OBDii scanner
On Mon, 07 Jul 2014 18:39:32 -0400, KC wrote:
On 7/7/2014 4:51 PM, wrote: On Mon, 07 Jul 2014 15:27:13 -0400, Poquito Loco wrote: That is all great if the code it throws still allows you to start the car. In my case the code was for the number one glow plug. Doesn't affect starting, unless it gets a lot colder! The code just gets me in the ball park. It could be a bad glow plug, the wire to the plug, the glow plug module, the wires to the module...only God knows where it may stop. I may have found a trustworthy repairman, though. Not the dealer. Since all of the glow plugs come on at the same time you could cut the problem in half by swapping glow plug wires. You could also check it with a meter and compare a good one to the bad one. I might just throw a new glow plug at it without doing any more diagnosis. Worst case is you have a good, spare glow plug. The code certainly gets you right down on the problem tho. I disagree, having seen how a Mass Air Flow Sensor code can mean the screw on the Ignition Module under the Distributor Cap was loose.. Or a Crank Angle Sensor (or something or another) that was disrupted by a screw holding a body part on, installed at the factory that finally wore through a couple years later... oh, it was a rear deck lid. You may think the code gets you there, but to me trusting FRED (****ing ridiculous emissions device) is like a baby crying... It may be making a lot of noise but it doesn't know if it's hungry, or just has to crap a diaper load:) If the code has to do with the emissions, the issues can range from too much mud in the wrong place to several thousands of dollars. A friend went through that with his truck. Took it to different dealers 'cause he was on a trip. Ended up costing him a lot of money. But, he probably got ripped off by a few of those dealers also. I *really* don't trust auto dealers, especially after our local Chevy dealer said I needed to flush my transmission. He'd obviously not read the book. |
OBDii scanner
On 7/8/2014 11:58 AM, wrote:
On Mon, 07 Jul 2014 18:39:32 -0400, KC wrote: On 7/7/2014 4:51 PM, wrote: On Mon, 07 Jul 2014 15:27:13 -0400, Poquito Loco wrote: That is all great if the code it throws still allows you to start the car. In my case the code was for the number one glow plug. Doesn't affect starting, unless it gets a lot colder! The code just gets me in the ball park. It could be a bad glow plug, the wire to the plug, the glow plug module, the wires to the module...only God knows where it may stop. I may have found a trustworthy repairman, though. Not the dealer. Since all of the glow plugs come on at the same time you could cut the problem in half by swapping glow plug wires. You could also check it with a meter and compare a good one to the bad one. I might just throw a new glow plug at it without doing any more diagnosis. Worst case is you have a good, spare glow plug. The code certainly gets you right down on the problem tho. I disagree, having seen how a Mass Air Flow Sensor code can mean the screw on the Ignition Module under the Distributor Cap was loose.. Or a Crank Angle Sensor (or something or another) that was disrupted by a screw holding a body part on, installed at the factory that finally wore through a couple years later... oh, it was a rear deck lid. You may think the code gets you there, but to me trusting FRED (****ing ridiculous emissions device) is like a baby crying... It may be making a lot of noise but it doesn't know if it's hungry, or just has to crap a diaper load:) Over the years, how many times has the code been right and how many times has it been bogus? 50/50 at best... Maybe you can get a spurious code for an unrelated problem but it is usually fairly accurate, I disagree completely and I worked in a dealership.. Now I don't argue when it's one code it's usually easier but still, most of those codes need to be followed up with a VOM and a diagnostic spreadsheet... Again, I worked for Chevy, I read the books, and went to the schools... soooooo, um, take it for what it's worth. particularly if it is only throwing one code. Noise on the bus can generate anything but that is a clue. If you are seeing random, unrelated codes, there is a good chance none of them are right. At that point you probably want to look at the bus with a scope. The reality is, if the code is bogus, the car is usually going to be running OK. At a certain point you just have to fall back on the skills you used to fix your 56 Chevy. If you have fuel, air, compression and spark, the engine will fire. |
OBDii scanner
F*O*A*D wrote:
On 6/30/14, 4:05 PM, wrote: On Mon, 30 Jun 2014 14:52:55 -0400, KC wrote: On 6/30/2014 1:32 PM, Poquito Loco wrote: I want to buy one of those code scanners. Anyone have any experience with them, recommendations, etc. My check engine light is on, and I've had it scanned, but it seems like one of those scanners might be a worthwhile investment. Don't know if you can do it on yours, but my old Chevys would let you jump the prongs on the connector under the dash (they acutally made a tool for it that went on your keyring) and you would see the code flashed on the check engine light. That was the original GM system not the OBDII I know I need a scanner for my Ford truck and my Honda. There is no jumper trick that I can find documented anywhere. I have not really played with the bluetooh dongle much. The last time I had a light, I went to Autozone for a free scan. You need a scanner? Are you having a lot of car problems? You never have car problems, except maybe for burning and abandoning your POS's. |
OBDii scanner
True North wrote:
My #2 son gave me one a couple Christmas ago. I've had no use for it driving reliable new Toyotas, but he used it a number of times on his Dodge Charger and one of his buddies vehicles. Believe he has to take the error code from the reader and use his smartphone to access a Site where he enters the code and gets the details. You get check engine lights on Toyota's also. |
OBDii scanner
wrote:
On Monday, June 30, 2014 1:32:09 PM UTC-4, John H. wrote: I want to buy one of those code scanners. Anyone have any experience with them, recommendations, etc. My check engine light is on, and I've had it scanned, but it seems like one of those scanners might be a worthwhile investment. I have an Actron that works just fine. As Greg said, they won't read the manufacturer extended codes (chassis, special controllers, etc.), but they will read the basic engine codes. I have an indy mechanic that has the Chevy specific tool. He read the codes on the 'vette when the brake and traction control module went out. It was still under warranty, so he sent me off to the dealer and didn't charge me a dime. The 'vette is now gone and an Audi A6 has taken it's place. It has the same issue as all new vehicles in that the reader only pulls the most basic codes. The aftermarket reader for it is a $350 software and cable package you run on a laptop. It allows you access to a ton of features and settings that only the dealer can see. Stuff like turning on the window up/down from your keyfob, internal and external lighting settings, playing DVDs on the screen while moving, etc. And many service modes, too. With the 100k mile warranty, I doubt I'll pop for it, though. I have an Innova 3030. Reads and resets codes and has a connection for a PC and a CD. Never used the connection. Works great. I bought it when the truck went into limp mode, and the dealer could not find a problem. Reset code and 40 miles later in Sacramento, limp mode again. Bought the reader and went to McD's for free WIFI and found out there was a bad connector on number 7 injector. Even a fix for the bad connection. Well worth owning one. |
OBDii scanner
I haven't seen one in four years with the RAV4 and 15.5 months with the Highlander.
|
OBDii scanner
On 7/8/2014 7:57 PM, BAR wrote:
In article , says... On Mon, 07 Jul 2014 18:45:56 -0400, Poquito Loco wrote: I *really* don't trust auto dealers, especially after our local Chevy dealer said I needed to flush my transmission. He'd obviously not read the book. Dealer service departments have become a profit center for dealers, perhaps a bigger part of their bottom line than the sale of cars. The service writers are on commission and the mechanics are rated on production. They have a great incentive to sell services that return a lot of profit. (fast and expensive) I imagine the dealer has one of those transmission flush machines and just like a hospital with an MRI machine, it is not making money if they are not using it so everyone "needs" it.. That's why we go to George's Auto Hospital. The thing about small places is they have to actually find out what's wrong, unlike a dealer who just sends some trained monkey to the parts dept and changes stuff till it fixes it:) |
OBDii scanner
True North wrote:
I haven't seen one in four years with the RAV4 and 15.5 months with the Highlander. And you may both be lucky, and not put a lot of miles on. And you are paying premium for that Toyota. My wife's Venza has a broken tail light lens. $201 for the tail light housing, as the lens is not separate and probably 2 hours to change! Has a small hole in the lens, probably a thrown rock. Or grocery cart. How can some car company justify having to change the whole assembly for a tail light broken lens? Tail lights have always gotten broken. |
OBDii scanner
On Tue, 08 Jul 2014 21:01:33 -0500, Califbill
wrote: True North wrote: I haven't seen one in four years with the RAV4 and 15.5 months with the Highlander. And you may both be lucky, and not put a lot of miles on. And you are paying premium for that Toyota. My wife's Venza has a broken tail light lens. $201 for the tail light housing, as the lens is not separate and probably 2 hours to change! Has a small hole in the lens, probably a thrown rock. Or grocery cart. How can some car company justify having to change the whole assembly for a tail light broken lens? Tail lights have always gotten broken. === Unfortunately it's fairly common these days. Sometimes you can get after market parts for less at NAPA, Autozone, etc. |
OBDii scanner
On 7/8/2014 5:53 PM, True North wrote:
I haven't seen one in four years with the RAV4 and 15.5 months with the Highlander. Illegal in Canuckistan? -- "I predict future happiness for Americans if they can prevent the government from wasting the labors of the people under the pretense of taking care of them". Thomas Jefferson |
OBDii scanner
Wayne.B wrote:
On Tue, 08 Jul 2014 21:01:33 -0500, Califbill wrote: True North wrote: I haven't seen one in four years with the RAV4 and 15.5 months with the Highlander. And you may both be lucky, and not put a lot of miles on. And you are paying premium for that Toyota. My wife's Venza has a broken tail light lens. $201 for the tail light housing, as the lens is not separate and probably 2 hours to change! Has a small hole in the lens, probably a thrown rock. Or grocery cart. How can some car company justify having to change the whole assembly for a tail light broken lens? Tail lights have always gotten broken. === Unfortunately it's fairly common these days. Sometimes you can get after market parts for less at NAPA, Autozone, etc. $201 dealer, $64 Amazon. |
OBDii scanner
On Tue, 08 Jul 2014 21:01:33 -0500, Califbill wrote:
True North wrote: I haven't seen one in four years with the RAV4 and 15.5 months with the Highlander. And you may both be lucky, and not put a lot of miles on. And you are paying premium for that Toyota. My wife's Venza has a broken tail light lens. $201 for the tail light housing, as the lens is not separate and probably 2 hours to change! Has a small hole in the lens, probably a thrown rock. Or grocery cart. How can some car company justify having to change the whole assembly for a tail light broken lens? Tail lights have always gotten broken. Call some junk yards. I had a hole in my taillight and got one at a junkyard for about a third of the dealer cost. It was even new in the box. |
| All times are GMT +1. The time now is 05:51 PM. |
Powered by vBulletin® Copyright ©2000 - 2025, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Copyright ©2004 - 2014 BoatBanter.com