Is draining the block enough to keep it from cracking....?
 

Is draining the block in an I/O enough to keep it from cracking, or could there
still be water pockets in it that could be enough to crack it? It seems they
should be designed so that can't happen, but are they? This particular one is a
140 hp straight four cylinder Mercury 1976-1979 model.

Is draining the block enough to keep it from cracking....?
 

On Jan 16, 2:32*pm, [email protected] wrote:
Is draining the block in an I/O enough to keep it from cracking, or could there
still be water pockets in it that could be enough to crack it? It seems they
should be designed so that can't happen, but are they? This particular one is a
140 hp straight four cylinder Mercury 1976-1979 model.

On my 140, U drain the petcocks, and pull the hose from the lower leg
to the manifold, and pour RV (pink stuff) anti-freeze down the hose
till it's running well out the lower end, and while leaving the
petcocks open on the manifold and the engine block, I pour the same
anti-freeze in the water pump hoses until it's running out all the
drain petcocks. I've had good success with doing that as well.

I've known of people who have taken the prop off the lower and put it
in a large vat (55 gal drum cut in half) , put the lower in it an run
the engine which gives the engine a total flush of water, but that
takes a lot of antifreeze and storing is a problem and it's a messy
set up.... but it works.

Is draining the block enough to keep it from cracking....?
 

On Wed, 16 Jan 2013 15:12:01 -0800 (PST), Tim
wrote:

I've known of people who have taken the prop off the lower and put it
in a large vat (55 gal drum cut in half) , put the lower in it an run
the engine which gives the engine a total flush of water, but that
takes a lot of antifreeze and storing is a problem and it's a messy
set up.... but it works.

===

You can do it with a lot less antifreeze by using a set of "muffs" to
gravity feed right into the intake holes on the I/O leg. You just
need to rig up a jerry jug and some hoses.

Is draining the block enough to keep it from cracking....?
 

On Jan 16, 7:11*pm, Wayne.B wrote:
On Wed, 16 Jan 2013 15:12:01 -0800 (PST), Tim
wrote:

I've known of people who have taken the prop off the lower and put it
in a large vat (55 gal drum cut in half) , put the lower in it an run
the engine which gives the engine a total flush of water, *but that
takes a lot of antifreeze and storing is a problem and it's a messy
set up.... but it works.

===

You can do it with a lot less antifreeze by using a set of "muffs" to
gravity feed right into the intake holes on the I/O leg. * You just
need to rig up a jerry jug and some hoses.

I've tried that and didn't have the best of results. Then again, I
didn't really have a good set of muffs.

Is draining the block enough to keep it from cracking....?
 

On Wed, 16 Jan 2013 20:11:56 -0500, Wayne.B wrote:

On Wed, 16 Jan 2013 15:12:01 -0800 (PST), Tim
wrote:

I've known of people who have taken the prop off the lower and put it
in a large vat (55 gal drum cut in half) , put the lower in it an run
the engine which gives the engine a total flush of water, but that
takes a lot of antifreeze and storing is a problem and it's a messy
set up.... but it works.

===

You can do it with a lot less antifreeze by using a set of "muffs" to
gravity feed right into the intake holes on the I/O leg. You just
need to rig up a jerry jug and some hoses.

I've done it with the muffs and the kit provided by West Marine.

http://tinyurl.com/a7u6kax

Worked like a champ. But, as Tim suggested, the muffs must provide a decent fit to the intakes.


Salmonbait

--

'Name-calling'...the liberals' answer to a lost argument!

Is draining the block enough to keep it from cracking....?
 

On 1/17/2013 10:40 AM, Salmonbait wrote:
On Wed, 16 Jan 2013 20:11:56 -0500, Wayne.B wrote:

On Wed, 16 Jan 2013 15:12:01 -0800 (PST), Tim
wrote:

I've known of people who have taken the prop off the lower and put it
in a large vat (55 gal drum cut in half) , put the lower in it an run
the engine which gives the engine a total flush of water, but that
takes a lot of antifreeze and storing is a problem and it's a messy
set up.... but it works.

===

You can do it with a lot less antifreeze by using a set of "muffs" to
gravity feed right into the intake holes on the I/O leg. You just
need to rig up a jerry jug and some hoses.

I've done it with the muffs and the kit provided by West Marine.

http://tinyurl.com/a7u6kax

Worked like a champ. But, as Tim suggested, the muffs must provide a decent fit to the intakes.


Salmonbait

--

'Name-calling'...the liberals' answer to a lost argument!

What about fogging the engine? I'd rather do that first then drain all
the water out, disconnect the top of the big water pump hose and pour
your antifreeze into the hose until it starts coming out the thermostat
housing. It couldn't be easier than that. The manifolds and risers might
need to be done separately.

Is draining the block enough to keep it from cracking....?
 

On Thu, 17 Jan 2013 10:53:58 -0500, Meyer wrote:

What about fogging the engine?

===

That's usually done as the last bit of antifreeze is going in.

Is draining the block enough to keep it from cracking....?
 

On 1/17/2013 11:48 AM, Wayne.B wrote:
On Thu, 17 Jan 2013 10:53:58 -0500, Meyer wrote:

What about fogging the engine?

===

That's usually done as the last bit of antifreeze is going in.


The timing of stalling the engine just as the anti freeze runs out is
extremely tricky.

Is draining the block enough to keep it from cracking....?
 

On Thu, 17 Jan 2013 11:56:41 -0500, Meyer wrote:

On 1/17/2013 11:48 AM, Wayne.B wrote:
On Thu, 17 Jan 2013 10:53:58 -0500, Meyer wrote:

What about fogging the engine?

===

That's usually done as the last bit of antifreeze is going in.


The timing of stalling the engine just as the anti freeze runs out is
extremely tricky.

Anti-freeze is not expensive. It's best to have more than you absolutely need so that a few extra
seconds of anti-freeze coming out the exhaust is possible.


Salmonbait

--

'Name-calling'...the liberals' answer to a lost argument!

Is draining the block enough to keep it from cracking....?
 

On Thu, 17 Jan 2013 12:44:39 -0500, Salmonbait
wrote:

On Thu, 17 Jan 2013 11:56:41 -0500, Meyer wrote:

On 1/17/2013 11:48 AM, Wayne.B wrote:
On Thu, 17 Jan 2013 10:53:58 -0500, Meyer wrote:

What about fogging the engine?

===

That's usually done as the last bit of antifreeze is going in.


The timing of stalling the engine just as the anti freeze runs out is
extremely tricky.

Anti-freeze is not expensive. It's best to have more than you absolutely need so that a few extra
seconds of anti-freeze coming out the exhaust is possible.



====

Yes.