Paddle problem time
 

Please help! It's like this: I finally go to a bent shaft (an AT4 River)
design after 6+ years of using straight shaft kayak paddles and find myself on
Virginia's Whitetop Laurel (a personal first 'D'!) after extensive rains last
Saturday. Somewhere about halfway through the 13-mile run--a fine choice for
an inaugural run with my new paddle, I might add, or so I thought--I began
feeling a pronounced pain in my right (power side) elbow, concentrating towards
the outside of it. Next morning the pain was so intense I had to lay off of
paddling--ARGGGHH! Vitamin "I" didn't even help, and {unfortunately} there
were no more potent pharmaceticals available. Day after, I paddled the
Nolichucky and by the time I took off my elbow had swollen to about the size of
a tennis ball! I THOUGHT I was gripping it correctly, basically where the
shaft enters the first arm of the "V"...is this wrong? Didn't run into any
trouble on either rivers, didn't hit it on any rocks--what gives? It's a 200cm
paddle but I am 6'4" with fairly long arms...could the paddle still be too
long? Over the years I've actually been steadily shortening my paddle lengths,
I started up around 206cm!! Maybe it's time to go with a 196 or 198?? Any
suggestions are appreciated (and DON'T say "give up paddling", pleeeze!)

Jeff Oxley
Recovering aqua-holic--and relapsing again (full time)
Editor, Blue Ridge River Runners (part time)

Paddle problem time
 

Whilst it may not answer your particular problem may I suggest that you
visit the link below. Whilst the information is aimed at parents there
are some guidelines on choosing the right paddle put together by the
GB national coaches which does give some info on adult paddles.
The Lightning is a scaled down K1 racing boat which was designed to
introduce young people into the sport. Tomorrow ( Sunday ) I will be
at a regatta with 60/70 youngsters aged 7 to 12 who are competing in a
national competition introduced three years ago - many have graduated
into youth competition - the future international competitors will come
from this. The enthusiasm has to be experienced - our problem is that we
have more youngsters coming through than we cope with.

http://www.lightnings.co.uk/

Frank Healy


--
Posted via Mailgate.ORG Server - http://www.Mailgate.ORG

Paddle problem time
 

Thanks Frank for the attempt...not much help to me here on this side of the big
pond, though, I'm afraid. Brasca? Lettmann? Not familiar with those brands
over here, and I'm unlikely to make the effort to purchase one...would rather
find out what it is I'm doing wrong witht the AT4 I already have! Anyone have
any other possibilities for solutions? I remember a time when technical
inquiries on RBP were answered with a plethora of (often differing) viewpoints
that the inquiree (that's me) could select or reject as valid or not...anybody
else listening?


Jeff Oxley
Recovering aqua-holic--and relapsing again (full time)
Editor, Blue Ridge River Runners (part time)

Paddle problem time
 

See ATs website
www.atpaddles.com

At 6'2", according to their sizing chart, you are betwix and between a
197 and 200 cm for the AT4 River.

Some possibilities:
1) grip is in the wrong place
2) grip is too hard
3) blade angle / grip angle not right / unaccustomed for you.

The grip area is not right where the shaft goes into the paddle... it
is up on the deflected bit - in between the blade neck and the main
straight part of the paddle.

I have found with some AT paddles that the shaft is kind of slick -
waxing up the grip area with some surfboard wax helps make the grip
tackier - which means that you don't have to grip it so hard. The
forearm is what pumps out when you grip too tightly.

And, it could be that, for your anatomy, AT's bent shaft design just
isn't right for you. Bent shafts are basically designed to allieviate
stress in the wrists - if you don't have any kind of history of RSI
type pain in the wrists - then there isn't much reason to go with an
ergo paddle.

I notice with an ergo paddle that some braces (skulling low, can't
recall if it is on the control or the off side) is actually harder to
do with an ergo paddle than with a straight shaft paddle.

The blade area could possibly be getting to you... the AT4 River has a
large blade (800 cm2). the largest (along with the ATX series) of all
of their blades. Sometimes blade area can cause joint stress, esp.
with a fairly stiff (carbon) shaft.

good luck... try the wax as a cheap mitigation attempt.

Ted

On 02 Jul 2004 19:32:41 GMT, (WILDH2PRO) wrote:

Please help! It's like this: I finally go to a bent shaft (an AT4 River)
design after 6+ years of using straight shaft kayak paddles and find myself on
Virginia's Whitetop Laurel (a personal first 'D'!) after extensive rains last
Saturday. Somewhere about halfway through the 13-mile run--a fine choice for
an inaugural run with my new paddle, I might add, or so I thought--I began
feeling a pronounced pain in my right (power side) elbow, concentrating towards
the outside of it. Next morning the pain was so intense I had to lay off of
paddling--ARGGGHH! Vitamin "I" didn't even help, and {unfortunately} there
were no more potent pharmaceticals available. Day after, I paddled the
Nolichucky and by the time I took off my elbow had swollen to about the size of
a tennis ball! I THOUGHT I was gripping it correctly, basically where the
shaft enters the first arm of the "V"...is this wrong? Didn't run into any
trouble on either rivers, didn't hit it on any rocks--what gives? It's a 200cm
paddle but I am 6'4" with fairly long arms...could the paddle still be too
long? Over the years I've actually been steadily shortening my paddle lengths,
I started up around 206cm!! Maybe it's time to go with a 196 or 198?? Any
suggestions are appreciated (and DON'T say "give up paddling", pleeeze!)

Jeff Oxley
Recovering aqua-holic--and relapsing again (full time)
Editor, Blue Ridge River Runners (part time)

Paddle problem time
 

Sorry it did not help - it was published to assist the youngsters who
attended a coaching day at a regatta last year. One of the GB coaches
gave a talk to parents and when the website was set up earlier this
year the information was published for their benefit. All the kids
who have access to email subscribe and get a regular newsletter.
May get some results if you put the same query on UK rec boats site.
I suspect that one problem is that you have gone straight in with them.
I have tonight purchased a new set of paddles for my grandaughter and
she will spend several sessions getting used to them before she races.
This will entail sessions with one of our coaching team working with her
and the others who have purchased them. One point that was made at the
coaching day was that many people paddle with what they are given and
that is why so many have difficulties. There is a science to picking
the correct paddle. Will do some research and post a link if I find
anything that may be of help. Meantime I would suggest you revert back
to your old ones for now and enjoy your paddling.

Frank Healy




--
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Paddle problem time
 

Thanks for the replies, Frank and Theodore. Until I figure out what's going on
I've gone back to my straight shaft Werner Freestyle--only prob is, it's
cracked about half way around the circumference, which relegates me to only the
relatively easier rivers (wouldn't want to have my paddle break on a class 4-5
wilderness run!). Thanks again!

Jeff Oxley
Recovering aqua-holic--and relapsing again (full time)
Editor, Blue Ridge River Runners (part time)

Paddle problem time
 

(ORIGINAL POST AT BOTTOM)

Another possibility: I visited AT's web site and read with horror Jimmy
Blakeney's product revue of the AT2--in the last paragraph he states:

"So, the two biggest reasons I like this paddle are its comfort/grip (combined
w/the known benefit of a bentshaft) and its smooth feel in the water and quick
stroke rate. It feels very balanced from the moment you pick it up, just make
sure your holding it the right way (low volume part of blade on the bottom). As

I've said before, any decent paddle will work, but the differences are in the
details, sometimes very important details."

So, according to that (very credible) source, I've been using the paddle upside
down?! I've been paddling with the higher area half of the blade (assuming the
ridge where the shaft combines with the blade is the dividing point between the
two) facing down, just like my last paddle, a similarly asymetric Werner
Freestyle! Granted, the review is for the AT2, not the AT4, but I would have
to imagine the designs are similar enough to employ the same paddling style.

Any of you AT paddlers out ther care to weigh in on which side of the blade
goes down? Haven't paddled for a week, and even so, whatever I'd done to my
elbow doesn't seem to be getting any better. No paddling for me for a while, it
looks like...waaaaa!

ORIGINAL POST:
Please help! It's like this: I finally go to a bent shaft (an AT4 River)
design after 6+ years of using straight shaft kayak paddles and find myself on
Virginia's Whitetop Laurel (a personal first 'D'!) after extensive rains last
Saturday. Somewhere about halfway through the 13-mile run--a fine choice for
an inaugural run with my new paddle, I might add, or so I thought--I began
feeling a pronounced pain in my right (power side) elbow, concentrating towards
the outside of it. Next morning the pain was so intense I had to lay off of
paddling--ARGGGHH! Vitamin "I" didn't even help, and {unfortunately} there
were no more potent pharmaceticals available. Day after, I paddled the
Nolichucky and by the time I took off my elbow had swollen to about the size of
a tennis ball! I THOUGHT I was gripping it correctly, basically where the
shaft enters the first arm of the "V"...is this wrong? Didn't run into any
trouble on either rivers, didn't hit it on any rocks--what gives? It's a 200cm
paddle but I am 6'4" with fairly long arms...could the paddle still be too
long? Over the years I've actually been steadily shortening my paddle lengths,
I started up around 206cm!! Maybe it's time to go with a 196 or 198?? Any
suggestions are appreciated (and DON'T say "give up paddling", pleeeze!)


Jeff Oxley
Recovering aqua-holic--and relapsing again (full time)
Editor, Blue Ridge River Runners (part time)

Paddle problem time
 

WILDH2PRO wrote:
(ORIGINAL POST AT BOTTOM)

....stuff deleted

So, according to that (very credible) source, I've been using the paddle upside
down?! I've been paddling with the higher area half of the blade (assuming the
ridge where the shaft combines with the blade is the dividing point between the
two) facing down, just like my last paddle, a similarly asymetric Werner
Freestyle! Granted, the review is for the AT2, not the AT4, but I would have
to imagine the designs are similar enough to employ the same paddling style.

Any of you AT paddlers out ther care to weigh in on which side of the blade
goes down? Haven't paddled for a week, and even so, whatever I'd done to my
elbow doesn't seem to be getting any better. No paddling for me for a while, it
looks like...waaaaa!

....stuff deleted

Most paddles I've seen are to be used with the smallest blade surface
down. The reason for this is that you don't need a lot of paddle in the
water to propel a boat. I'm still using the original paddles I purchased
years ago and I find that I put no more than 1/2 the blade in the water
at a time and could easily go to a paddle that uses considerably less
blade. Swimmers (world class freestylers), for example, propel
themselves at close to 5 MPH using a paddle the size of, oh my, your
hand. When training with paddles on their hands, they tend to get
tendonitis due to the excess stress.

Now a boat is considerably larger, but WW paddlers routinely roll their
boat using their hands as well. How much blade is necessary is probably
considerably less than what most of us think. I have taken my son's
shorter, narrower, blade out and found that I liked the response. I tire
less quickly, use less muscle, and have greater turnover (more
revolutions per minute). This is consistent with what is observed in
similar power sports (such as cycling) where a faster cadence and lower
gearing results in a more satisfying and comfortable expenditure of
energy, even though it seems less efficient. Cyclists used to recommend
an RPM of 60-80, but modern thinking puts a comfortable cadence between
80-100, with 120 seen in some individuals. I prefer a cadence of 90-95
and find that I am working too hard at lower cadences.

The end result, however, is the same. It takes X amount of energy to
move a particular hull 1 mile. You can do this with a fat, long paddle,
or a short, skinny one. The number of calories expended is virtually
identical. It comes down to which is more comfortable for the paddler
and which leads to a reduction of stresses on the anatomy.

Rick

Paddle problem time
 

Rick wrote:

WILDH2PRO wrote:

...stuff deleted

So, according to that (very credible) source, I've been using the
paddle upside down?! I've been paddling with the higher area half
of the blade (assuming the ridge where the shaft combines with the
blade is the dividing point between the two) facing down, just like
my last paddle, a similarly asymetric Werner Freestyle! Granted,
the review is for the AT2, not the AT4, but I would have to imagine
the designs are similar enough to employ the same paddling style.

...stuff deleted

Most paddles I've seen are to be used with the smallest blade surface
down.

That's true, but...

The reason for this is that you don't need a lot of paddle in
the water to propel a boat.

....that's not the reason. If the issue were simply size, then why not
just use a smaller blade? The reason asymmetic paddles are asymmetric is
the the paddle is usually inserted at some diagonal angle to the water.
If the paddle is symmetric around the shaft line, you have more paddle
in the water below and less above, causing twist. The asymmetry tries to
compensate for that. If you use an asymm paddle upside down (ie, the
longer edge of the blade down), you create more, not less, twist,
thereby requiring a tighter grip on the paddle, thereby mucking up your
tendons.

Didn't you think it was odd that the AT logos were upside down? Or maybe
it didn't have any. Look at the images on the AT site to see proper
orientation. http://www.atpaddle.com/WhitewaterGateway.html

Hope your arms get well soon. Don't rush it.

--
Steve Cramer
Athens, GA

Paddle problem time
 

....stuff deleted

That's true, but...

The reason for this is that you don't need a lot of paddle in
the water to propel a boat.

...that's not the reason. If the issue were simply size, then why not
just use a smaller blade? The reason asymmetic paddles are asymmetric is
the the paddle is usually inserted at some diagonal angle to the water.
If the paddle is symmetric around the shaft line, you have more paddle
in the water below and less above, causing twist. The asymmetry tries to
compensate for that. If you use an asymm paddle upside down (ie, the
longer edge of the blade down), you create more, not less, twist,
thereby requiring a tighter grip on the paddle, thereby mucking up your
tendons.


I was not commenting on whether asymmetry will, as you say, reduce
turbulance, vibration, and cavitation. What I was saying was that you
don't need a lot of blade to propel a boat and that placing the wider
edge into the water will tend to result in excess work and stress for
the paddler (the blade, be it small or large, will only move a few
fractions of an inch when pulled against). Since we were discussing the
injury here, I was pointing out that the load of an inverted paddle may
result in undue stress on the paddler.

Rick

Paddle problem time
 

Rick wrote:
...stuff deleted

That's true, but...

The reason for this is that you don't need a lot of paddle in
the water to propel a boat.

...that's not the reason. If the issue were simply size, then why not
just use a smaller blade? The reason asymmetic paddles are asymmetric
is the the paddle is usually inserted at some diagonal angle to the
water. If the paddle is symmetric around the shaft line, you have more
paddle in the water below and less above, causing twist. The asymmetry
tries to compensate for that. If you use an asymm paddle upside down
(ie, the longer edge of the blade down), you create more, not less,
twist, thereby requiring a tighter grip on the paddle, thereby mucking
up your tendons.

I was not commenting on whether asymmetry will, as you say, reduce
turbulance, vibration, and cavitation. What I was saying was that you
don't need a lot of blade to propel a boat and that placing the wider
edge into the water will tend to result in excess work and stress for
the paddler (the blade, be it small or large, will only move a few
fractions of an inch when pulled against). Since we were discussing the
injury here, I was pointing out that the load of an inverted paddle may
result in undue stress on the paddler.

I said nothing about "turbulance, vibration, and cavitation", just
torque (i.e., twist). BTW, paddles don't cavitate, they ventilate,
(http://www.guillemot-kayaks.com/Design/Paddlework.html), but that's not
the point here. Yes, you don't need a wide blade to propel a boat. The
Greenlanders proved that over 2000 years ago. But I still don't follow
your point. Would you say it isn't good to totally immerse the blade? Or
that everyone should use narrow blades?

Perhaps you've never heard the arguments in favor of asymm paddles. Have
a look here for a nice explanation:
http://www.getoutcanoeing.co.uk/acat...ategory&page=1

--
Steve Cramer
Athens, GA

Paddle problem time
 

Steve Cramer wrote:
....stuff deleted

I was not commenting on whether asymmetry will, as you say, reduce
turbulance, vibration, and cavitation. What I was saying was that you
don't need a lot of blade to propel a boat and that placing the wider
edge into the water will tend to result in excess work and stress for
the paddler (the blade, be it small or large, will only move a few
fractions of an inch when pulled against). Since we were discussing
the injury here, I was pointing out that the load of an inverted
paddle may result in undue stress on the paddler.


I said nothing about "turbulance, vibration, and cavitation", just
torque (i.e., twist). BTW, paddles don't cavitate, they ventilate,
(http://www.guillemot-kayaks.com/Design/Paddlework.html), but that's not
the point here. Yes, you don't need a wide blade to propel a boat. The
Greenlanders proved that over 2000 years ago. But I still don't follow
your point. Would you say it isn't good to totally immerse the blade? Or
that everyone should use narrow blades?

What is written on the site in reference to cavitation vs. ventilation
is as follows:
"Neither is any good, but what your average kayaker creates is ventilation."

My paddle cavitates when I pull hard. It goes in clean, takes no air
down with it, and it generates air bubbles on the low pressure side of
the blade, which is, by definition, cavitation (cavitation is not
limited to propeller blades, but occurs much more frequently due to the
intense pressures the blade places on the water). If I pull really hard,
the vortices on the blade will suck air down toward the paddle, creating
ventilation. This is tremendously inefficient and causes "slippage," as
referred to on the website you cited.

But that, again, isn't the point. Torque isn't the issue here. Paddles
do not generally twist in use. While there may be unbalanced pressure on
various points of the blade, the shaft should not torque on a
well-designed blade, regardless of symmetry.

What I am discussing has little to do with the symmetry of the paddle,
but upon the stresses which cause injury to paddlers. Too much blade
can, and does, cause injury. Using an asymmetric blade upside down puts
the more blade into the water, thus putting more pressure on the
paddler. Whether or not this causes injury is a function of how tightly
the paddler holds the blade and how much stress the lever (paddle)
directs to the joints where tendons meet bone.


Perhaps you've never heard the arguments in favor of asymm paddles. Have
a look here for a nice explanation:
http://www.getoutcanoeing.co.uk/acat...ategory&page=1



I use an asymmetrical paddle and know why. We are discussing two
different things here. More blade = more stress on paddler. Longer shaft
also translates to more stress on paddler, but there are points of
diminishing returns on that. A shorter shaft with a higher cadence
produces fewer injuries than a long shaft. If the shaft is too short,
however, a great amount of efficiency is lost.

A large blade combined with a long shaft can cause injury more quickly
than a narrow blade (though my understanding is that the shaft length is
the bigger issue).

Rick

Paddle problem time
 

Rick wrote:
Steve Cramer wrote:
...stuff deleted

I was not commenting on whether asymmetry will, as you say, reduce
turbulance, vibration, and cavitation. What I was saying was that you
don't need a lot of blade to propel a boat and that placing the wider
edge into the water will tend to result in excess work and stress for
the paddler (the blade, be it small or large, will only move a few
fractions of an inch when pulled against). Since we were discussing
the injury here, I was pointing out that the load of an inverted
paddle may result in undue stress on the paddler.

I said nothing about "turbulance, vibration, and cavitation", just
torque (i.e., twist). BTW, paddles don't cavitate, they ventilate,
(http://www.guillemot-kayaks.com/Design/Paddlework.html), but that's
not the point here. Yes, you don't need a wide blade to propel a boat.
The Greenlanders proved that over 2000 years ago. But I still don't
follow your point. Would you say it isn't good to totally immerse the
blade? Or that everyone should use narrow blades?

What is written on the site in reference to cavitation vs. ventilation
is as follows:
"Neither is any good, but what your average kayaker creates is
ventilation."

My paddle cavitates when I pull hard. It goes in clean, takes no air
down with it, and it generates air bubbles on the low pressure side of
the blade, which is, by definition, cavitation (cavitation is not
limited to propeller blades, but occurs much more frequently due to the
intense pressures the blade places on the water). If I pull really hard,
the vortices on the blade will suck air down toward the paddle, creating
ventilation. This is tremendously inefficient and causes "slippage," as
referred to on the website you cited.

Never seen you paddle, but I'm betting you don't generate enough power
to lower the pressure on the back side of the paddle to the point that
water turns to vapor. That's cavitation. Air has nothing to do with it.
Kayak paddles ventilate.

But that, again, isn't the point. Torque isn't the issue here. Paddles
do not generally twist in use.

Except, perhaps, asymm blades used upside down.

While there may be unbalanced pressure on
various points of the blade, the shaft should not torque on a
well-designed blade, regardless of symmetry.

Huh? Unbalanced pressure causes torque. Push harder on one side of the
blade, and it will twist around the shaft.

What I am discussing has little to do with the symmetry of the paddle,
but upon the stresses which cause injury to paddlers. Too much blade
can, and does, cause injury. Using an asymmetric blade upside down puts
the more blade into the water, thus putting more pressure on the
paddler. Whether or not this causes injury is a function of how tightly
the paddler holds the blade and how much stress the lever (paddle)
directs to the joints where tendons meet bone.

Perhaps you've never heard the arguments in favor of asymm paddles.
Have a look here for a nice explanation:
http://www.getoutcanoeing.co.uk/acat...ategory&page=1

I use an asymmetrical paddle and know why. We are discussing two
different things here.

Indeed. I keep trying to discuss the poor guy who messed up his arms
using an asymm AT paddle upside down. You seem to be talking about
somehting else. Go get your own thread.

More blade = more stress on paddler. Longer shaft
also translates to more stress on paddler, but there are points of
diminishing returns on that. A shorter shaft with a higher cadence
produces fewer injuries than a long shaft. If the shaft is too short,
however, a great amount of efficiency is lost.

A large blade combined with a long shaft can cause injury more quickly
than a narrow blade (though my understanding is that the shaft length is
the bigger issue).

Well, yes, but we have no idea how big or small the OP's paddle blades
and shaft length were, do we?

OK, Rick, you've obviously convinced yourself, so if you say so...

Meantime, let's use our asymm blades right side up, OK?

--
Steve Cramer
Athens, GA

Paddle problem time
 

On 11-Jul-2004, Rick wrote:

My paddle cavitates when I pull hard. It goes in clean, takes no air
down with it, and it generates air bubbles on the low pressure side of
the blade, which is, by definition, cavitation (cavitation is not
limited to propeller blades, but occurs much more frequently due to the
intense pressures the blade places on the water).

Intense pressures? If you can cause a paddle blade to cavitate, you're
the most powerful paddler the world has ever seen. BTW - cavitation bubbles
are not air - they are water vapour. And they collapse almost immediately.
Check the damage on your blade. The collapse will cause severe pitting.

A paddle has an area of 80-120 sq in, typically, with some bigger still.
If yours is, say, 100 sq in and you generate an average of 0.5 psi on the
back side, that's a total force of 50 lb. It takes most fast sea kayaks
less than 14 lb to hit hull speed.

Please provide a reasonable pressure profile that will generate a peak
of 15psi and an average of less than 0.15 psi (that's a 100:1 spread).

Paddles ventilate. End of story.

Mike

Paddle problem time
 

Frank Healy wrote:

http://www.lightnings.co.uk/ Adults Paddles Guidelines PDF

Sorry it did not help - it was published to assist the youngsters who
attended a coaching day at a regatta last year. One of the GB coaches
gave a talk to parents and when the website was set up earlier this
year the information was published for their benefit...

Frank, do you (or the kids) use bent shafts in competition?

What are your opinions about feather angle? Do competitors
decide for themselves? What is the most common choice?

Paddle problem time
 

Steve Cramer wrote:

http://www.atpaddle.com/WhitewaterGateway.html

The AT3 and AT4 paddle blades look very poorly designed to me.
In any asymmetric paddle, the surface area on one side of the axis
should be equal to the surface area on the other side of the axis,
to help prevent flutter when the paddle shaft is loosely held.
Preventint flutter also helps avoid too-tight gripping.

I can't quite discern axis in the AT2 picture, but the AT3 Edge
and to a lesser extent the AT4 Play seem to have more surface area
on the upper half. The ATX and Zen blades look more equalized.

Paddle problem time
 

"Bill Tuthill" wrote in message




Frank, do you (or the kids) use bent shafts in competition?

What are your opinions about feather angle? Do competitors
decide for themselves? What is the most common choice?


No bent shafts are not used in sprint - at least I have never seen
anyone use them. I have just purchased a new paddle for my grandaughter
which is being set at 65deg against the standard 90deg - many of the
problems asociated with injury are due to incorrect paddling action. If
you study any sprint/marathon competition videos then you will see
people paddling in a style that has a great deal of scientific research
behind it. When you are competing for Olympic Gold you ensure that you
are using the most effective stroke. At present one of our coaching team
is working with the youngsters to ensure that they paddle correctly.
This will reduce the risk of injury. When I moved into racing I needed
to relearn much that I had been taught, it took a while to perfect my
paddling technique but I found that I could paddle faster and further
with less effort at the end. With regard to how much of the blade goes
in the water this is a red herring. If you only need half the blade size
why not reduce the size of the blade? - The answer is to get decent
coaching and you will then get the maximum benefit. The problem with
being taught by people who have picked it up with no formal teaching is
they teach their bad habits.

Frank Healy


--
Posted via Mailgate.ORG Server - http://www.Mailgate.ORG

Paddle problem time
 

On 12-Jul-2004, "Frank Healy" wrote:

The problem with
being taught by people who have picked it up with no formal teaching is
they teach their bad habits.

But what about those _with_ formal training that teach bad habits?

I've met folks both with and without formal training and they can have
both good and bad technique. Add to this that paddling technique has
been in a state of flux, to some extent, recently and you get all sorts
of techniques being taught with no clear idea (for the student) of what
is right.

Another problem is that most racing is short distance (i.e. Olympic
C and K) and those techniques are inappropriate for long distance
or for recreation.

Mike

Paddle problem time
 

The less blade surface area the higher your cadence will be thus requiring
less effort. The more surface area the slower your cadence yet more
powerful the stroke. That's why it feels like you're going faster with a
smaller blade. This works great for some people but not everyone as it
depends on their own personal strength and paddle style along with what type
of water they paddle.

Courtney

"Frank Healy" wrote in message
news:391c5cc48d9ae45ce88d1e75f21feac0.8098@mygate. mailgate.org...
"Bill Tuthill" wrote in message




Frank, do you (or the kids) use bent shafts in competition?

What are your opinions about feather angle? Do competitors
decide for themselves? What is the most common choice?


No bent shafts are not used in sprint - at least I have never seen
anyone use them. I have just purchased a new paddle for my grandaughter
which is being set at 65deg against the standard 90deg - many of the
problems asociated with injury are due to incorrect paddling action. If
you study any sprint/marathon competition videos then you will see
people paddling in a style that has a great deal of scientific research
behind it. When you are competing for Olympic Gold you ensure that you
are using the most effective stroke. At present one of our coaching team
is working with the youngsters to ensure that they paddle correctly.
This will reduce the risk of injury. When I moved into racing I needed
to relearn much that I had been taught, it took a while to perfect my
paddling technique but I found that I could paddle faster and further
with less effort at the end. With regard to how much of the blade goes
in the water this is a red herring. If you only need half the blade size
why not reduce the size of the blade? - The answer is to get decent
coaching and you will then get the maximum benefit. The problem with
being taught by people who have picked it up with no formal teaching is
they teach their bad habits.

Frank Healy


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Paddle problem time
 

Michael Daly wrote:

I've met folks both with and without formal training and they can have
both good and bad technique. Add to this that paddling technique has
been in a state of flux, to some extent, recently and you get all sorts
of techniques being taught with no clear idea (for the student) of what
is right.

Another problem is that most racing is short distance (Olympic C and K)
and those techniques are inappropriate for long distance or recreation.

Exactly. Frank Healy mentioned 90 degree feather as being standard,
but for long distance and recreational paddling, it was long ago decided
that this extreme angle exacerbates RSI (repetitive stress injuries)
so feather angles moved to 75, then 60, and now 45 or less. A worthwhile
tradeoff of increased wind resistance for less likelihood of RSI.

For whitewater sometimes you need a big blade to get in a quick stroke
to stay on-line. Also in whitewater, some blade designs perform better
for backpaddling than others, a trait racers needn't worry about.

It's an interesting datapoint that racers are NOT using bent shaft...

Paddle problem time
 

On 13-Jul-2004, Bill Tuthill wrote:

It's an interesting datapoint that racers are NOT using bent shaft...

Anymore. Bill, the bent shaft moved from the racing community to the
recreational over the years. Then the racers stopped using them. While
the hypothesis that the bent shaft improves performance sounds good, in
practice it doesn't really add a benefit.

I use a bent shaft Euro paddle (Lendal Archipelago) and have often advised
folks, on this forum and others, that it's only useful if you have a real
problem with your wrist/arm. It doesn't help for RSI, or more specifically
for carpal tunnel, since that is more greatly affected by feather angle.
However, if your joints aren't quite right (like most of mine) then using
a bent shaft to reduce wrist misalignment problems helps. Otherwise, save
your money and get a straight shaft.

I also use a Greenland-style paddle and it is easier on my arms. Slightly
worse on my muscles though, as it is less efficient and therefore more
tiring. The ease on the joints is due to the fact that I control the
paddle more with my fingers than my wrists and that the technique uses a
closer hand position than does a Euro paddle (hence straighter wrists).

Mike

Paddle problem time
 

I was diagnosed with carpel tunnel some years ago which was affecting me day
and night. I switched to a bent shaft and over a period of 3 to 6 months my
carpel tunnel subsided completely. Several years after that I switched from
a 45 degree paddle to a 30 degree only because I felt it worked better for
me play boating. I've known of other paddlers that have benefited from bent
shafts for their carpel tunnel as well.

Another thing that can contribute to trouble with the wrists and elbows is
over gripping the paddle shaft. If a paddler has small hands and is having
some pain, a thought might be to switch to a small shafted paddle.

Courtney

"Michael Daly" wrote in message
...
On 13-Jul-2004, Bill Tuthill wrote:

It's an interesting datapoint that racers are NOT using bent shaft...

Anymore. Bill, the bent shaft moved from the racing community to the
recreational over the years. Then the racers stopped using them. While
the hypothesis that the bent shaft improves performance sounds good, in
practice it doesn't really add a benefit.

I use a bent shaft Euro paddle (Lendal Archipelago) and have often advised
folks, on this forum and others, that it's only useful if you have a real
problem with your wrist/arm. It doesn't help for RSI, or more
specifically
for carpal tunnel, since that is more greatly affected by feather angle.
However, if your joints aren't quite right (like most of mine) then using
a bent shaft to reduce wrist misalignment problems helps. Otherwise, save
your money and get a straight shaft.

I also use a Greenland-style paddle and it is easier on my arms. Slightly
worse on my muscles though, as it is less efficient and therefore more
tiring. The ease on the joints is due to the fact that I control the
paddle more with my fingers than my wrists and that the technique uses a
closer hand position than does a Euro paddle (hence straighter wrists).

Mike

Paddle problem time
 

On 13-Jul-2004, "Courtney" wrote:

I was diagnosed with carpel tunnel some years ago which was affecting me day
and night. I switched to a bent shaft and over a period of 3 to 6 months my
carpel tunnel subsided completely. Several years after that I switched from
a 45 degree paddle to a 30 degree only because I felt it worked better for
me play boating. I've known of other paddlers that have benefited from bent
shafts for their carpel tunnel as well.

I should have said "doesn't help _as_much_ for carpal tunnel" compared to
fixing the feather. If your wrists aren't flexing and you aren't gripping too
tightly, straightening the wrist has less effect. If you have too much or
too little feather, then straightening the wrist will help reduce the stress,
but fixing the feather gives the most gain.

My advice would be to fix the feather angle first and if there's still a problem,
try the bent shaft.

Mike