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J W August 10th 03 02:18 AM

Outfitting a poly boat?
 
Heyas,

I just got an entry-level Mainstream "Riptide" kayak (9'4" long, 29.5"
beam). It's all poly, and there don't seem to be any attachment points for
things like hold-downs or side lines. About all it came with was the boat
itself, a flip-down seat back (adjustable), and a pair of grab handles. No
foot-braces.

All in all, I'm happy with it; I'm pretty much a fla****er / easy river
sort, for the time being. It's a vast improvement over the inflatable
Sevylor canoe/kayak I bought last year.

Any recommendations on how I can outfit it? I'd like some sort of foot
braces at the very least. I don't really need a lot of outside storage,
considering how much room there is inside (I can put a gallon water jug in
between the seat and hull on either side; I won't be dehydrated ;)

Thanks in advance,

--
J W

*sig has expired. Go to alt.hacker and ask for a crack for it.*


Brian Nystrom August 10th 03 02:52 PM

Outfitting a poly boat?
 
You can get padeyes, cord, bungee and stainless screws/washers/nuts at most
marine suppliers. Yakima footrests are available as an aftermarket item. All
attachments will need to be done via drilling holes in the boat and installing
the parts with screws or stainless pop rivets, since you cannot easily glue
anything structural to polyethylene.

Another important concern is floatation. You should install float bags front
and rear. Without them, there is no way you'll be able to self rescue in the
event of a capsize.

--
Regards

Brian



J W August 11th 03 06:18 AM

Outfitting a poly boat?
 
Brian Nystrom wrote in
:

You can get padeyes, cord, bungee and stainless screws/washers/nuts at
most marine suppliers. Yakima footrests are available as an
aftermarket item. All attachments will need to be done via drilling
holes in the boat and installing the parts with screws or stainless
pop rivets, since you cannot easily glue anything structural to
polyethylene.

Another important concern is floatation. You should install float bags
front and rear. Without them, there is no way you'll be able to self
rescue in the event of a capsize.


It's got foam blocks in each end; they're Styrofoam, though, and over the
winter/fall I intend to pull them out and replace them with closed-cell
stuff. If I do add tie-downs and braces, it'll have to happen then, too.
I'm having too much fun to go _working_ on it right now!

Thanks for the info.

--
J W

*sig has expired. Go to alt.hacker and ask for a crack for it.*


John Fereira August 12th 03 08:16 PM

Outfitting a poly boat?
 
J W wrote in
:

Brian Nystrom wrote in
:

You can get padeyes, cord, bungee and stainless screws/washers/nuts at
most marine suppliers. Yakima footrests are available as an
aftermarket item. All attachments will need to be done via drilling
holes in the boat and installing the parts with screws or stainless
pop rivets, since you cannot easily glue anything structural to
polyethylene.

Another important concern is floatation. You should install float bags
front and rear. Without them, there is no way you'll be able to self
rescue in the event of a capsize.


It's got foam blocks in each end; they're Styrofoam, though, and over
the winter/fall I intend to pull them out and replace them with
closed-cell stuff. If I do add tie-downs and braces, it'll have to
happen then, too. I'm having too much fun to go _working_ on it right
now!


Replacing the foam blocks with closed cell foam will be useless unless you
fill up an area much larger than is taken up now. All those foam block do
is keep the boat from sinking entirely should it fill up with water.

Here's something for you to try.

On a warm day, take your boat out about 20' from shore and tip over. Slowly
tip it back upright so that the cockpit starts to fill with water. Now try
to get it back to shore and empty it out. If you *do* manage to climb back
into the cockpit you won't be able to paddle it because it will be so
unstable that it will just slip back over with each stroke and the bow or
stern will likely slip completely under. You can try getting out and
swimming it to shore instead. It should only take you about 10-15 minutes.
Once you're on shore try emptying out the water.

When I tried this little exercise with someone that claimed that she didn't
need float bags because the hull had a foam core and wouldn't sink, it took
three people to drag the boat onto a shallow beach and turn the boat over.

Now imagine the same scenario but you're 200' from shore and the water is 50
degrees.

Get some float bags for your boat and practice tipping it over and getting
back into in deep water.


J W August 14th 03 02:00 AM

Outfitting a poly boat?
 
Brian Nystrom wrote in
:



J W wrote:

Brian Nystrom wrote in
:

You can get padeyes, cord, bungee and stainless screws/washers/nuts
at most marine suppliers. Yakima footrests are available as an
aftermarket item. All attachments will need to be done via drilling
holes in the boat and installing the parts with screws or stainless
pop rivets, since you cannot easily glue anything structural to
polyethylene.

Another important concern is floatation. You should install float
bags front and rear. Without them, there is no way you'll be able
to self rescue in the event of a capsize.


It's got foam blocks in each end; they're Styrofoam, though, and over
the winter/fall I intend to pull them out and replace them with
closed-cell stuff.


Foam blocks (I assume that they're pillars) are not enough, You still
need float bags. There are split bag sets made specifically for going
on either side of foam pillars.


I don't know what a pillar is, in this context. The blocks are large pieces
of foam formed roughly like the inside of the bow and stern areas. Each one
is about 12" long, maybe 8" to 10" wide and high.


If I do add tie-downs and braces, it'll have to happen then, too.
I'm having too much fun to go _working_ on it right now!


You may want to reconsider that. Now - when you're using the boat the
most - is the time you need to have it properly outfitted, since now
is the most likely time for a mishap. The water won't reward you for
good intentions.


Most of what I carry (aside from me and my PFD) is tethered to the seat
posts inside the boat.

--
J W

*sig has expired. Go to alt.hacker and ask for a crack for it.*


Brian Nystrom August 14th 03 10:43 AM

Outfitting a poly boat?
 


J W wrote:

Brian Nystrom wrote in
:



J W wrote:

Brian Nystrom wrote in
:

You can get padeyes, cord, bungee and stainless screws/washers/nuts
at most marine suppliers. Yakima footrests are available as an
aftermarket item. All attachments will need to be done via drilling
holes in the boat and installing the parts with screws or stainless
pop rivets, since you cannot easily glue anything structural to
polyethylene.

Another important concern is floatation. You should install float
bags front and rear. Without them, there is no way you'll be able
to self rescue in the event of a capsize.

It's got foam blocks in each end; they're Styrofoam, though, and over
the winter/fall I intend to pull them out and replace them with
closed-cell stuff.


Foam blocks (I assume that they're pillars) are not enough, You still
need float bags. There are split bag sets made specifically for going
on either side of foam pillars.


I don't know what a pillar is, in this context. The blocks are large pieces
of foam formed roughly like the inside of the bow and stern areas. Each one
is about 12" long, maybe 8" to 10" wide and high.


They don't sound like pillars, which are typically 3-4" wide pieces of foam set
vertically to prevent the deck from collapsing. What you have is still not
adequate floatation.

If I do add tie-downs and braces, it'll have to happen then, too.
I'm having too much fun to go _working_ on it right now!


You may want to reconsider that. Now - when you're using the boat the
most - is the time you need to have it properly outfitted, since now
is the most likely time for a mishap. The water won't reward you for
good intentions.


Most of what I carry (aside from me and my PFD) is tethered to the seat
posts inside the boat.


The issue is not gear retention, it's floatation, as John pointed out.

--
Regards

Brian




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