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2-cycle outbaord power bands.
I'm familiar with two cycle motorcycles, and they're power band. Some
are really finicky and doggy untill you hit a certain rpm, then can be almost uncontrolable. (Motocross) while some have less power yet a wider range of usable torque.(Streetbikes) and some have the tuning at the absolute bottom of the rpm ranges (trials bikes) But concerning a v-4 johnson/evinrude etc. Is there a powerband where you run a set range rpm for maximum efficiency? too little rpm labors the engine, and too much gaines little except sucks more fuel? |
2-cycle outbaord power bands.
On Apr 10, 6:36*am, W1TEF wrote:
On Fri, 9 Apr 2010 15:43:56 -0700 (PDT), Tim wrote: Is there a powerband ? Angra, Avantasia, Blind Guardian, Dark Moor, Dragonland, Elvenking, Firewind, Heavenly, Helloween, Kamelot, Nocturnal Rites, Pyramaze, Rhapsody Of Fire, Sabaton, Sonata Arctica, Stratovarius - tons of power bands. Um....wait - Never mind... Hey, I got about 2000 watts of Ampeg and SWR equipment, and a BC Rich Mockingbird NJ bass. Gimme a gig! |
2-cycle outbaord power bands.
"Tim" wrote in message ... I'm familiar with two cycle motorcycles, and they're power band. Some are really finicky and doggy untill you hit a certain rpm, then can be almost uncontrolable. (Motocross) while some have less power yet a wider range of usable torque.(Streetbikes) and some have the tuning at the absolute bottom of the rpm ranges (trials bikes) But concerning a v-4 johnson/evinrude etc. Is there a powerband where you run a set range rpm for maximum efficiency? too little rpm labors the engine, and too much gaines little except sucks more fuel? Well, my experience is that just enough throttle to keep a boat on plane is the most efficient (get somewhere) setting but this doesn't work for a normal, round tube pontoon boat. |
2-cycle outbaord power bands.
On Apr 10, 9:37*am, "mmc" wrote:
"Tim" wrote in message ... I'm familiar with two cycle motorcycles, and they're power band. Some are really finicky and doggy untill you hit a certain rpm, then can be almost uncontrolable. (Motocross) while some have less power yet a wider range of usable torque.(Streetbikes) *and some have the tuning at the absolute bottom of the rpm ranges (trials bikes) But concerning a v-4 johnson/evinrude etc. Is there a powerband where you run a set range *rpm for maximum efficiency? too little rpm labors the engine, and too much gaines little except sucks more fuel? Well, my experience is that just enough throttle to keep a boat on plane is the most efficient (get somewhere) setting but this doesn't work for a normal, round tube pontoon boat. Yes, this is going to be a bit of a learning experience, fo' sho' |
2-cycle outbaord power bands.
On Apr 10, 11:48*am, wrote:
On Sat, 10 Apr 2010 10:37:13 -0400, "mmc" wrote: "Tim" wrote in message .... I'm familiar with two cycle motorcycles, and they're power band. Some are really finicky and doggy untill you hit a certain rpm, then can be almost uncontrolable. (Motocross) while some have less power yet a wider range of usable torque.(Streetbikes) *and some have the tuning at the absolute bottom of the rpm ranges (trials bikes) But concerning a v-4 johnson/evinrude etc. Is there a powerband where you run a set range *rpm for maximum efficiency? too little rpm labors the engine, and too much gaines little except sucks more fuel? Well, my experience is that just enough throttle to keep a boat on plane is the most efficient (get somewhere) setting but this doesn't work for a normal, round tube pontoon boat. A pontoon still has a step where the hulls level out a bit higher in the water than pure displacement. More speed generally raises that up a little but at a pretty good increase in fuel consumption. If the motor and boat are well matched it will be up on the step and leveled out at 3200 - 3400 RPM. Bumping that up to around 4000 RPM gives you a good cruise speed and a healthy RPM for a 2 stroke engine. .- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - Thanks Greg. That's worthy of consideration. |
2-cycle outbaord power bands.
On Sat, 10 Apr 2010 05:03:44 -0700 (PDT), Tim
wrote: Hey, I got about 2000 watts of Ampeg and SWR equipment, and a BC Rich Mockingbird NJ bass. Gimme a gig! What kind of alternator do you need for that? :-) |
2-cycle outbaord power bands.
wrote in message ... On Sat, 10 Apr 2010 10:37:13 -0400, "mmc" wrote: "Tim" wrote in message ... I'm familiar with two cycle motorcycles, and they're power band. Some are really finicky and doggy untill you hit a certain rpm, then can be almost uncontrolable. (Motocross) while some have less power yet a wider range of usable torque.(Streetbikes) and some have the tuning at the absolute bottom of the rpm ranges (trials bikes) But concerning a v-4 johnson/evinrude etc. Is there a powerband where you run a set range rpm for maximum efficiency? too little rpm labors the engine, and too much gaines little except sucks more fuel? Well, my experience is that just enough throttle to keep a boat on plane is the most efficient (get somewhere) setting but this doesn't work for a normal, round tube pontoon boat. A pontoon still has a step where the hulls level out a bit higher in the water than pure displacement. More speed generally raises that up a little but at a pretty good increase in fuel consumption. If the motor and boat are well matched it will be up on the step and leveled out at 3200 - 3400 RPM. Bumping that up to around 4000 RPM gives you a good cruise speed and a healthy RPM for a 2 stroke engine. . I'm just happy to keep my prop deep enough in the water to keep the cavitation down. When cruising around the Banana or Indian Rivers, any chop at all will cause it to cavitate at 3,000-3,800 RPMs and if almost can't run at over 4k at all. It's a long shaft 50 Force and the cavitation plate is just under the surface. Should I move the motor lower? Probably involve a either one of those brackets used to move an OB out from the transome (name escapes me this morning) or chopping the crap out of my outboard mount, something I'd really like to avoid. |
2-cycle outbaord power bands.
wrote in message ... On Sun, 11 Apr 2010 12:02:30 -0400, "mmc" wrote: A pontoon still has a step where the hulls level out a bit higher in the water than pure displacement. More speed generally raises that up a little but at a pretty good increase in fuel consumption. If the motor and boat are well matched it will be up on the step and leveled out at 3200 - 3400 RPM. Bumping that up to around 4000 RPM gives you a good cruise speed and a healthy RPM for a 2 stroke engine. . I'm just happy to keep my prop deep enough in the water to keep the cavitation down. When cruising around the Banana or Indian Rivers, any chop at all will cause it to cavitate at 3,000-3,800 RPMs and if almost can't run at over 4k at all. It's a long shaft 50 Force and the cavitation plate is just under the surface. Should I move the motor lower? Probably involve a either one of those brackets used to move an OB out from the transome (name escapes me this morning) or chopping the crap out of my outboard mount, something I'd really like to avoid. That sounds high. The cavitation plate should be below water going at any speed. If it is barely underwater at rest it will be lifting out. Where is it in relation to the skid on the motor bracket?That was what I used as a guide on mine. It sits about an inch below the bottom of a straight edge, laid on the skid plate. Sorry about the bad resolution, it is the only picture I could find http://gfretwell.com/ftp/engine%20mounting.jpg I can see it fine. Also, I can see where the prop is in relation to the pontoons. Thanks and I'll compare it to mine. Or compare mine to yours. Boats that is. Ha! |
2-cycle outbaord power bands.
On Apr 10, 11:53*am, Wayne.B wrote:
On Sat, 10 Apr 2010 05:03:44 -0700 (PDT), Tim wrote: Hey, I got about 2000 watts of Ampeg and SWR equipment, and a BC Rich Mockingbird NJ bass. Gimme a gig! What kind of alternator do you need for that? * *:-) LOL!.. One that works, Wayne! |
2-cycle outbaord power bands.
wrote in message ... On Sun, 11 Apr 2010 18:52:39 -0400, "mmc" wrote: wrote in message . .. On Sun, 11 Apr 2010 12:02:30 -0400, "mmc" wrote: A pontoon still has a step where the hulls level out a bit higher in the water than pure displacement. More speed generally raises that up a little but at a pretty good increase in fuel consumption. If the motor and boat are well matched it will be up on the step and leveled out at 3200 - 3400 RPM. Bumping that up to around 4000 RPM gives you a good cruise speed and a healthy RPM for a 2 stroke engine. . I'm just happy to keep my prop deep enough in the water to keep the cavitation down. When cruising around the Banana or Indian Rivers, any chop at all will cause it to cavitate at 3,000-3,800 RPMs and if almost can't run at over 4k at all. It's a long shaft 50 Force and the cavitation plate is just under the surface. Should I move the motor lower? Probably involve a either one of those brackets used to move an OB out from the transome (name escapes me this morning) or chopping the crap out of my outboard mount, something I'd really like to avoid. That sounds high. The cavitation plate should be below water going at any speed. If it is barely underwater at rest it will be lifting out. Where is it in relation to the skid on the motor bracket?That was what I used as a guide on mine. It sits about an inch below the bottom of a straight edge, laid on the skid plate. Sorry about the bad resolution, it is the only picture I could find http://gfretwell.com/ftp/engine%20mounting.jpg I can see it fine. Also, I can see where the prop is in relation to the pontoons. Thanks and I'll compare it to mine. Or compare mine to yours. Boats that is. Ha! Bear in mind this is 4" above the stock location and the prop does blow out on a hard turn at speed. My goal was shallow running Thanks, I'm just trying to run down what my problem is and this will help I think. How deep was your cav plate in the stock position? We're shallow in the IR Lagoon too but I still have a good couple feet whereever I want to go. |
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