Boat questions, no shit!
 

http://www.flickr.com/photos/deserttraveler/

Three pics here. One is of a cleat like thing that I would assume is to
guide a mooring line to keep it in place. What's it called, and what's it
used for.

Second pic, of the configuration of my bow reel. I think it would be better
if the vee landing would be below the d ring, as when I come in, I'm usually
floating higher than the rubber pulley. Total reconfiguration and location,
but not a problem. Should the bow eye on the boat be below or above the
receiving vee?

Last thing, oxidized aluminum. How to treat? Sand it off, and repaint with
what, and seal with Sharkhide, I would ass-u-me.

Thanks in advance, and sorry to take you all away from your politics.

Steve

Boat questions, no shit!
 

On Sun, 8 Nov 2009 16:16:19 -0700, "SteveB"
wrote:

http://www.flickr.com/photos/deserttraveler/

Three pics here. One is of a cleat like thing that I would assume is to
guide a mooring line to keep it in place. What's it called, and what's it
used for.

Second pic, of the configuration of my bow reel. I think it would be better
if the vee landing would be below the d ring, as when I come in, I'm usually
floating higher than the rubber pulley. Total reconfiguration and location,
but not a problem. Should the bow eye on the boat be below or above the
receiving vee?

Last thing, oxidized aluminum. How to treat? Sand it off, and repaint with
what, and seal with Sharkhide, I would ass-u-me.

Thanks in advance, and sorry to take you all away from your politics.

Steve

May also want to give Steve some tips on spray painting.

Nice scrub land. Wonder where the nearest water is...

Boat questions, no shit!
 

On Sun, 8 Nov 2009 16:16:19 -0700, "SteveB"
wrote:

http://www.flickr.com/photos/deserttraveler/

Three pics here. One is of a cleat like thing that I would assume is to
guide a mooring line to keep it in place. What's it called, and what's it
used for.

It's called a chock and it's used as a lead fairway for dock lines or
fenders.

Second pic, of the configuration of my bow reel. I think it would be better
if the vee landing would be below the d ring, as when I come in, I'm usually
floating higher than the rubber pulley. Total reconfiguration and location,
but not a problem. Should the bow eye on the boat be below or above the
receiving vee?

Below - that's a fairly standard configration as your want the reel
and line to be as straight as possible to the bow. From the picture,
it's perfect at it is.

Last thing, oxidized aluminum. How to treat? Sand it off, and repaint with
what, and seal with Sharkhide, I would ass-u-me.

That's a tough one. I'd suggest just a quick sand, prime and paint.
I'm not sure that's even a real problem other than being a minor
annoyance in terms of cosmetics.

Boat questions, no shit!
 

On Nov 8, 3:16�pm, "SteveB" wrote:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/deserttraveler/

Three pics here. �One is of a cleat like thing that I would assume is to
guide a �mooring line to keep it in place. �What's it called, and what's it
used for.

Second pic, of the configuration of my bow reel. �I think it would be better
if the vee landing would be below the d ring, as when I come in, I'm usually
floating higher than the rubber pulley. �Total reconfiguration and location,
but not a problem. �Should the bow eye on the boat be below or above the
receiving vee?

Last thing, oxidized aluminum. �How to treat? �Sand it off, and repaint with
what, and seal with Sharkhide, I would ass-u-me.

Thanks in advance, and sorry to take you all away from your politics.

Steve

Steve, I'd suggest that you invest about $40.00 in a copy of "Chapman
Piloting & Seamanship 66th Edition (Chapman Piloting, Seamanship and
Small Boat Handling)". It may not tell you about painting but it will
answer any number of boating questions, some of which you may not have
even thought of yet! Welcome to the never-ending education about
boats! Learn all you can while ashore, you won't have time for
research on the water!

Mike

Boat questions, no shit!
 

"SteveB" wrote in message
...
http://www.flickr.com/photos/deserttraveler/

Three pics here. One is of a cleat like thing that I would assume is to
guide a mooring line to keep it in place. What's it called, and what's
it used for.

Second pic, of the configuration of my bow reel. I think it would be
better if the vee landing would be below the d ring, as when I come in,
I'm usually floating higher than the rubber pulley. Total reconfiguration
and location, but not a problem. Should the bow eye on the boat be below
or above the receiving vee?

Last thing, oxidized aluminum. How to treat? Sand it off, and repaint
with what, and seal with Sharkhide, I would ass-u-me.

Thanks in advance, and sorry to take you all away from your politics.

Steve


Leave the aluminum painted. I like the bow eye below the roller. Then you
have a litte extra protection of the boat coming forward in a hard stop.
Just do not back the trailer in as far and the boat will not be floating at
the roller.

Boat questions, no shit!
 

"jps" wrote in message
...
On Sun, 8 Nov 2009 16:16:19 -0700, "SteveB"
wrote:

http://www.flickr.com/photos/deserttraveler/

Three pics here. One is of a cleat like thing that I would assume is to
guide a mooring line to keep it in place. What's it called, and what's
it
used for.

Second pic, of the configuration of my bow reel. I think it would be
better
if the vee landing would be below the d ring, as when I come in, I'm
usually
floating higher than the rubber pulley. Total reconfiguration and
location,
but not a problem. Should the bow eye on the boat be below or above the
receiving vee?

Last thing, oxidized aluminum. How to treat? Sand it off, and repaint
with
what, and seal with Sharkhide, I would ass-u-me.

Thanks in advance, and sorry to take you all away from your politics.

Steve

May also want to give Steve some tips on spray painting.

Nice scrub land. Wonder where the nearest water is...

Lots of water in Southern Utah. Rivers and very large lakes. Mead, Powell,
and probably a few smaller lakes.

Boat questions, no shit!
 

"Mike" wrote in message
...
On Nov 8, 3:16?pm, "SteveB" wrote:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/deserttraveler/

Three pics here. ?One is of a cleat like thing that I would assume is to
guide a ?mooring line to keep it in place. ?What's it called, and what's
it
used for.

Second pic, of the configuration of my bow reel. ?I think it would be
better
if the vee landing would be below the d ring, as when I come in, I'm
usually
floating higher than the rubber pulley. ?Total reconfiguration and
location,
but not a problem. ?Should the bow eye on the boat be below or above the
receiving vee?

Last thing, oxidized aluminum. ?How to treat? ?Sand it off, and repaint
with
what, and seal with Sharkhide, I would ass-u-me.

Thanks in advance, and sorry to take you all away from your politics.

Steve

Steve, I'd suggest that you invest about $40.00 in a copy of "Chapman
Piloting & Seamanship 66th Edition (Chapman Piloting, Seamanship and
Small Boat Handling)". It may not tell you about painting but it will
answer any number of boating questions, some of which you may not have
even thought of yet! Welcome to the never-ending education about
boats! Learn all you can while ashore, you won't have time for
research on the water!

Mike

I spent about seven years on the Gulf of Mexico as a diver and crane
operator. We worked with some hefty stuff, but this small stuff has me
baffled half the time. Now, if you want an eye splice in a five in hawser,
that I can do.

Steve

Boat questions, no shit!
 

"Bill McKee" wrote in message
m...

"jps" wrote in message
...
On Sun, 8 Nov 2009 16:16:19 -0700, "SteveB"
wrote:

http://www.flickr.com/photos/deserttraveler/

Three pics here. One is of a cleat like thing that I would assume is to
guide a mooring line to keep it in place. What's it called, and what's
it
used for.

Second pic, of the configuration of my bow reel. I think it would be
better
if the vee landing would be below the d ring, as when I come in, I'm
usually
floating higher than the rubber pulley. Total reconfiguration and
location,
but not a problem. Should the bow eye on the boat be below or above the
receiving vee?

Last thing, oxidized aluminum. How to treat? Sand it off, and repaint
with
what, and seal with Sharkhide, I would ass-u-me.

Thanks in advance, and sorry to take you all away from your politics.

Steve

May also want to give Steve some tips on spray painting.

Nice scrub land. Wonder where the nearest water is...

Lots of water in Southern Utah. Rivers and very large lakes. Mead,
Powell, and probably a few smaller lakes.

Quail Hollow Lake is about six miles from my house. The state largemouth
and crappie records were from there, last I heard. Both keepers and catch
and release. I caught a limit of trout in half an hour yesterday afternoon.
The trip before that, I caught a 20" and two 18"ers in about an hour.

Mead sucks. I grew up in Henderson, Nevada. Lake Mead used to be
largemouth bass and crappie heaven. In the old days, the bass limit was 10
fish or 50#. Crappie were caught by the ice chest full. Then they put in
the stripers. To me, a striper is one step above a carp.

Then in 1984, the lake overflowed into the Colorado River system below
Hoover Dam, and the stripers ate all the trout.

Lake Powell ................... eh. I'd rather go up to some small mountain
lake or set of lakes and go float tubing or kayaking, or stream fishing
instead of going down there and listening to a bunch of drunks play hip hop
at loud levels, or buzz you with their PWC while you're trying to troll
motor fish along the bank.

Mead used to get 250,000 people on 4th of July. Not my idea of getting away
from it all for a few days.

Steve

Boat questions, no shit!
 

"Bill McKee" wrote

Leave the aluminum painted. I like the bow eye below the roller. Then
you have a litte extra protection of the boat coming forward in a hard
stop. Just do not back the trailer in as far and the boat will not be
floating at the roller.

Thought of that as I was in the middle of retrieval last evening. For
years, I would launch and recover my own boat, and had a system. This time,
with wifey, it is very different. I can see that I am going to have to redo
under the boat and put some carpeted boards, and a couple of more guides and
stops up frontward, where I can put the trailer minimally in the water, then
power up and slide up. Lock on the eye hook to keep it from rolling off
during pullout, then winching it all the way up once I'm at the top of the
ramp and stopped. A foot long safety chain with a snap eye on the bow eye
bolt just in case the strap breaks.

The two side carpeted board guides are perfect, but the rollers under the
boat need some reworking and replacing, and I have always liked long boards
under there to evenly support the weight. Time to work on a lot of things
now the weather is cooler.

I like your idea about the bow eye for protection against a hard stop. I
think my problem was having the trailer too deep in the water on retrieval.

Steve

Boat questions, no shit!
 

On Sun, 8 Nov 2009 20:34:01 -0800, "Bill McKee"
wrote:


"jps" wrote in message
.. .
On Sun, 8 Nov 2009 16:16:19 -0700, "SteveB"
wrote:

http://www.flickr.com/photos/deserttraveler/

Three pics here. One is of a cleat like thing that I would assume is to
guide a mooring line to keep it in place. What's it called, and what's
it
used for.

Second pic, of the configuration of my bow reel. I think it would be
better
if the vee landing would be below the d ring, as when I come in, I'm
usually
floating higher than the rubber pulley. Total reconfiguration and
location,
but not a problem. Should the bow eye on the boat be below or above the
receiving vee?

Last thing, oxidized aluminum. How to treat? Sand it off, and repaint
with
what, and seal with Sharkhide, I would ass-u-me.

Thanks in advance, and sorry to take you all away from your politics.

Steve

May also want to give Steve some tips on spray painting.

Nice scrub land. Wonder where the nearest water is...

Lots of water in Southern Utah. Rivers and very large lakes. Mead, Powell,
and probably a few smaller lakes.

Isn't Mead a pond now?

Boat questions, no shit!
 

"SteveB" wrote in message
...
http://www.flickr.com/photos/deserttraveler/

Three pics here. One is of a cleat like thing that I would assume is to
guide a mooring line to keep it in place. What's it called, and what's
it used for.

Second pic, of the configuration of my bow reel. I think it would be
better if the vee landing would be below the d ring, as when I come in,
I'm usually floating higher than the rubber pulley. Total reconfiguration
and location, but not a problem. Should the bow eye on the boat be below
or above the receiving vee?

Last thing, oxidized aluminum. How to treat? Sand it off, and repaint
with what, and seal with Sharkhide, I would ass-u-me.

Thanks in advance, and sorry to take you all away from your politics.

Steve

Apparently Bill is the only responder that knows Jack. Or you hurt the
others feeling by butting into the political bullsh*t fest.
The first pic is a chock thru which a mooring line is led to a nearby cleat.
The second looks to be paint oxidation. I'd wax it and see how that works
out. Oxidation on bare aluminum will seal it with a white powder and won't
harm anything. I think products like Sharkhide are for bare aluminum so I'd
go with a decent car wax.
I agree with Bill on the roller. If you float the boat onto the trailer, the
angle of the boat in relation to the trailer on the ramp probably has the
roller hitting somewhat higher on the stem than in the pic? If so and the
eye was was higher or the roller lower it would get hung up.
Looks like a good boat Got any full shots?

Boat questions, no shit!
 

On Mon, 9 Nov 2009 08:52:29 -0500, "mmc" wrote:

Apparently Bill is the only responder that knows Jack. Or you hurt the
others feeling by butting into the political bullsh*t fest.

Um..hello? :)

Boat questions, no shit!
 

"mmc" wrote

Looks like a good boat Got any full shots?

Will post some. I love the layout of this boat, and it is a very restorable
boat that won't cost an arm and a leg. It has tons of level walk around
room, the kind that four people can go fishing in safely in our lakes, and
not get in each other's ways. It's a deep vee, and very stable in the
water. High gunnels. All the lighting works, came with a good fish finder,
1.5 hp troll motor, 40 hp Merc, lots of stuff in the storage cabinets.

It's a little ragged right now, but my list of honeydo projects is getting
shorter, and the boat is ratcheting up. I can do upholstery, so a couple of
new padded benches are in the pipeline. If I have a windfall, I may even
get a tilt replacement for the missing one. But even as is, it is a decent
boat for $1500. I could use it forever and not change a thing, and it would
be good. I'll take a couple of pics next time it's in the water.

Steve

Boat questions, no shit!
 

On Nov 9, 10:48*am, Tom Francis - SWSports
wrote:
On Mon, 9 Nov 2009 08:52:29 -0500, "mmc" wrote:
Apparently Bill is the only responder that knows Jack. Or you hurt the
others feeling by butting into the political bullsh*t fest.

Um..hello? *:)

I don't know Bill. Bill doesn't know me. Therefore...

Oh, nevermind. :-)

Boat questions, no shit!
 

"jps" wrote in message
...
On Sun, 8 Nov 2009 20:34:01 -0800, "Bill McKee"
wrote:


"jps" wrote in message
. ..
On Sun, 8 Nov 2009 16:16:19 -0700, "SteveB"
wrote:

http://www.flickr.com/photos/deserttraveler/

Three pics here. One is of a cleat like thing that I would assume is to
guide a mooring line to keep it in place. What's it called, and what's
it
used for.

Second pic, of the configuration of my bow reel. I think it would be
better
if the vee landing would be below the d ring, as when I come in, I'm
usually
floating higher than the rubber pulley. Total reconfiguration and
location,
but not a problem. Should the bow eye on the boat be below or above the
receiving vee?

Last thing, oxidized aluminum. How to treat? Sand it off, and repaint
with
what, and seal with Sharkhide, I would ass-u-me.

Thanks in advance, and sorry to take you all away from your politics.

Steve

May also want to give Steve some tips on spray painting.

Nice scrub land. Wonder where the nearest water is...

Lots of water in Southern Utah. Rivers and very large lakes. Mead,
Powell,
and probably a few smaller lakes.

Isn't Mead a pond now?

A really big pond.

Boat questions, no shit!
 

"Tom Francis - SWSports" wrote in
message ...
On Mon, 9 Nov 2009 08:52:29 -0500, "mmc" wrote:

Apparently Bill is the only responder that knows Jack. Or you hurt the
others feeling by butting into the political bullsh*t fest.

Um..hello? :)

You don't count. ;)

Boat questions, no shit!
 

"John H." wrote in message
...
On Sun, 8 Nov 2009 23:13:47 -0700, "SteveB"
wrote:


"Bill McKee" wrote

Leave the aluminum painted. I like the bow eye below the roller. Then
you have a litte extra protection of the boat coming forward in a hard
stop. Just do not back the trailer in as far and the boat will not be
floating at the roller.

Thought of that as I was in the middle of retrieval last evening. For
years, I would launch and recover my own boat, and had a system. This
time,
with wifey, it is very different. I can see that I am going to have to
redo
under the boat and put some carpeted boards, and a couple of more guides
and
stops up frontward, where I can put the trailer minimally in the water,
then
power up and slide up. Lock on the eye hook to keep it from rolling off
during pullout, then winching it all the way up once I'm at the top of the
ramp and stopped. A foot long safety chain with a snap eye on the bow eye
bolt just in case the strap breaks.

The two side carpeted board guides are perfect, but the rollers under the
boat need some reworking and replacing, and I have always liked long
boards
under there to evenly support the weight. Time to work on a lot of things
now the weather is cooler.

I like your idea about the bow eye for protection against a hard stop. I
think my problem was having the trailer too deep in the water on
retrieval.

Steve


'Powering up' to get your boat on the trailer wreaks havoc with the
launch ramp. The boat should be put on the trailer without using the
engine. Using the winch is good exercise anyway.
--
John H



Tell them to build your ramps properly and the power loading will not hurt
it. Most of our western lakes rise and fall so much that the ramps are
really long and may have another 100-200' under water at times.

Boat questions, no shit!
 

"Bill McKee" wrote in message
m...

"jps" wrote in message
...
On Sun, 8 Nov 2009 20:34:01 -0800, "Bill McKee"
wrote:


"jps" wrote in message
...
On Sun, 8 Nov 2009 16:16:19 -0700, "SteveB"
wrote:

http://www.flickr.com/photos/deserttraveler/

Three pics here. One is of a cleat like thing that I would assume is
to
guide a mooring line to keep it in place. What's it called, and
what's
it
used for.

Second pic, of the configuration of my bow reel. I think it would be
better
if the vee landing would be below the d ring, as when I come in, I'm
usually
floating higher than the rubber pulley. Total reconfiguration and
location,
but not a problem. Should the bow eye on the boat be below or above
the
receiving vee?

Last thing, oxidized aluminum. How to treat? Sand it off, and repaint
with
what, and seal with Sharkhide, I would ass-u-me.

Thanks in advance, and sorry to take you all away from your politics.

Steve

May also want to give Steve some tips on spray painting.

Nice scrub land. Wonder where the nearest water is...

Lots of water in Southern Utah. Rivers and very large lakes. Mead,
Powell,
and probably a few smaller lakes.

Isn't Mead a pond now?

A really big pond.

I haven't been down there in a long time, but I'd like to. I have memories
going back to the 50's regarding beaches and water lines, and "stuff".

Steve

Boat questions, no shit!
 

"Bill McKee" wrote
Tell them to build your ramps properly and the power loading will not hurt
it. Most of our western lakes rise and fall so much that the ramps are
really long and may have another 100-200' under water at times.

Our ramp was built when the dam breached, and therefore, it could be built
as deep as it could be down to the bottom of the original creek. Still,
yesterday, when launching and recovering, we were ten feet past the end of
the concrete, so apparently they did not think the levels would fall past
that. Most ramps can only be built at the lowest of water levels, and if
the impoundment/lake/whatever can't be mechanically lowered, they just wait
until the lowest water level, then add on. But it sits underwater and
deteriorates, and when finally is low enough to use, is usually in bad
shape.

Steve

Boat questions, no shit!
 

"SteveB" wrote in message
...

"Bill McKee" wrote
Tell them to build your ramps properly and the power loading will not
hurt it. Most of our western lakes rise and fall so much that the ramps
are really long and may have another 100-200' under water at times.

Our ramp was built when the dam breached, and therefore, it could be built
as deep as it could be down to the bottom of the original creek. Still,
yesterday, when launching and recovering, we were ten feet past the end of
the concrete, so apparently they did not think the levels would fall past
that. Most ramps can only be built at the lowest of water levels, and if
the impoundment/lake/whatever can't be mechanically lowered, they just
wait until the lowest water level, then add on. But it sits underwater
and deteriorates, and when finally is low enough to use, is usually in bad
shape.

Steve


They built most of the ramps on the lakes before the lakes were filled.
Lake Oroville has to be down about 150' before the main ramp is above the
waterline.

Boat questions, no shit!
 

"Bill McKee" wrote

They built most of the ramps on the lakes before the lakes were filled.
Lake Oroville has to be down about 150' before the main ramp is above the
waterline.

I've seen lots of landings, and it ranges from, "Boy, that's good" to "WTF
were they thinking?" I remember a tilt trailer I had on a boat in
Louisiana, and when you got to the end of the concrete, it dropped off, and
that was the only way to launch or recover. And even then, you had to be
spot on.

Steve

Boat questions, no shit!
 

Isn't Mead a pond now?

A really big pond.

I was on the lake a few weeks ago. The lake is down significantly, at 42%
of capacity. Even at that level, the lake is holding 11 million acre-feet
of water. Really big pond, indeed.

Boat questions, no shit!
 

"RG" wrote in message
...

Isn't Mead a pond now?

A really big pond.

I was on the lake a few weeks ago. The lake is down significantly, at 42%
of capacity. Even at that level, the lake is holding 11 million acre-feet
of water. Really big pond, indeed.

Yes, it still is a big pond. Yet, I'd like to go down to Vegas Wash, and
look at swallow's nests that we used to drive up in a boat and touch, and
see them. Wait, you have to hike 100 yards now and look up with binoculars.
There is a huge canyon there where the original Colorado River still holds a
lot of water. But it isn't what it used to be. Lake Powell took a lot of
water away, only to lose it to absorption through the sandstone strata the
lake was made on, or additional evaporation. It's all a testimony to
politics and man's idea that they can control nature. With the Hoover Dam
project, and subsequent dams, Davis, Parker, and Topock Slough, they did a
good job. They controlled the Colorado and provided agricultural water to
California and points south of Hoover Dam. A good thing. Then they decided
to put a big plug upstream at Lake Powell, probably because of pork and
idiocy.

Yah gotta love politics.

Reality. Nature's way of keeping things straight.

Fast forward 1,000 years on "Life after Man".

Steve

Boat questions, no shit!
 

Yes, it still is a big pond. Yet, I'd like to go down to Vegas Wash, and
look at swallow's nests that we used to drive up in a boat and touch, and
see them. Wait, you have to hike 100 yards now and look up with
binoculars. There is a huge canyon there where the original Colorado River
still holds a lot of water. But it isn't what it used to be. Lake Powell
took a lot of water away, only to lose it to absorption through the
sandstone strata the lake was made on, or additional evaporation. It's
all a testimony to politics and man's idea that they can control nature.
With the Hoover Dam project, and subsequent dams, Davis, Parker, and
Topock Slough, they did a good job. They controlled the Colorado and
provided agricultural water to California and points south of Hoover Dam.
A good thing. Then they decided to put a big plug upstream at Lake
Powell, probably because of pork and idiocy.


The issue of Glen Canyon Dam has been debated to death. In the end, there
are two views. Yours and the other one. I subscribe to the other one.

Boat questions, no shit!
 

'Powering up' to get your boat on the trailer wreaks havoc with the
launch ramp. The boat should be put on the trailer without using the
engine. Using the winch is good exercise anyway.
--

Obviously, you've never had to put a 12,000 pound cruiser on a trailer. In
that case, the winch is there merely to take up any slack in the bow strap.
You certainly don't drag the boat across the bunks using the silly winch.
Ain't gonna happen. And if you've got the trailer deep enough in the water
to float the boat all the way on to the trailer, then you've got other
problems when you pull the trailer out of the water. The boat will always
settle back away from the bow stop in that situation, and you ain't gonna
winch it back. The only solution is to power the boat to the bow stop with
adequate friction on the bunks due to not submerging the trailer too deep..
At least that's how we do it in the west. I've had various boats in dry
storage at any number of lakes out here, which always involves using their
launch and retrieve service. The marina guy in the truck, me in the boat.
These guys launch boats all day every day, and they know what they're doing.
They call the shots, and without fail, it's always a power-on scenario at
their call

Russ

Boat questions, no shit!
 

SteveB wrote:
wrote

Looks like a good boat Got any full shots?

Will post some. I love the layout of this boat, and it is a very restorable
boat that won't cost an arm and a leg. It has tons of level walk around
room, the kind that four people can go fishing in safely in our lakes, and
not get in each other's ways. It's a deep vee, and very stable in the
water. High gunnels. All the lighting works, came with a good fish finder,
1.5 hp troll motor, 40 hp Merc, lots of stuff in the storage cabinets.

It's a little ragged right now, but my list of honeydo projects is getting
shorter, and the boat is ratcheting up. I can do upholstery, so a couple of
new padded benches are in the pipeline. If I have a windfall, I may even
get a tilt replacement for the missing one. But even as is, it is a decent
boat for $1500. I could use it forever and not change a thing, and it would
be good. I'll take a couple of pics next time it's in the water.

Steve



$1500 wouldn't buy the OB motor. That's a great deal!

Rob

Boat questions, no shit!
 

On Nov 9, 3:23�pm, Gene wrote:
On Mon, 9 Nov 2009 08:52:29 -0500, "mmc" wrote:
The second looks to be paint oxidation. I'd wax it and see how that works
out. Oxidation on bare aluminum will seal it with a white powder and won't
harm anything.

That is one of the most entirely incorrect things I have ever read.

Remove the paint with an appropriate stripper and aluminum wool (NOT
steel wool), alodine the affected area, prime with zinc chromate
primer, and paint with an appropriate paint.

The oxidation that protects aluminum is not visible. If you can see
corrosion, that is the beginning of "metal decay."

Probably more than you ever wanted to know, but......http://rgl.faa.gov/Regulatory_and_Gu...visoryCircular...
--
It is usually futile to try to talk facts and analysis to people who are
enjoying a sense of moral superiority in their ignorance.
�-Thomas Sowell

Grady-White Gulfstream, out of Oak Island, NC.

Homepage
�http://pamandgene.tranquilrefuge.net/boating/the_boat/my_boat.htm

Fort� Agent 5.00 Build 1171

Good call on the corrosion issue...if you can see it it isn't good!
Take care, as winter is coming...not that it amounts to much here in
S.Calif!
Mike

Boat questions, no shit!
 

"RG" wrote in message
...

Yes, it still is a big pond. Yet, I'd like to go down to Vegas Wash, and
look at swallow's nests that we used to drive up in a boat and touch, and
see them. Wait, you have to hike 100 yards now and look up with
binoculars. There is a huge canyon there where the original Colorado
River still holds a lot of water. But it isn't what it used to be. Lake
Powell took a lot of water away, only to lose it to absorption through
the sandstone strata the lake was made on, or additional evaporation.
It's all a testimony to politics and man's idea that they can control
nature. With the Hoover Dam project, and subsequent dams, Davis, Parker,
and Topock Slough, they did a good job. They controlled the Colorado and
provided agricultural water to California and points south of Hoover Dam.
A good thing. Then they decided to put a big plug upstream at Lake
Powell, probably because of pork and idiocy.


The issue of Glen Canyon Dam has been debated to death. In the end, there
are two views. Yours and the other one. I subscribe to the other one.

Yeah. I'm sure the low levels at Lake Mead are due to the carbon dioxide
levels caused by industrial pollution. Like everything else. And the FACT
that 25% of the water never ever reaches Lake Mead, but goes directly into
the earth by absorption. But, hey, you don't want to deal in facts, so
believe whatever you want.

Watch out. There's a bogeyman behind you!

Steve

Boat questions, no shit!
 

"Rob" wrote in message
...
SteveB wrote:
wrote

Looks like a good boat Got any full shots?

Will post some. I love the layout of this boat, and it is a very
restorable
boat that won't cost an arm and a leg. It has tons of level walk around
room, the kind that four people can go fishing in safely in our lakes,
and
not get in each other's ways. It's a deep vee, and very stable in the
water. High gunnels. All the lighting works, came with a good fish
finder,
1.5 hp troll motor, 40 hp Merc, lots of stuff in the storage cabinets.

It's a little ragged right now, but my list of honeydo projects is
getting
shorter, and the boat is ratcheting up. I can do upholstery, so a couple
of
new padded benches are in the pipeline. If I have a windfall, I may even
get a tilt replacement for the missing one. But even as is, it is a
decent
boat for $1500. I could use it forever and not change a thing, and it
would
be good. I'll take a couple of pics next time it's in the water.

Steve



$1500 wouldn't buy the OB motor. That's a great deal!

Rob

I was happy. Still am. Leaves me with a few bucks to dress up the old gal.

Steve

Boat questions, no shit!
 

"SteveB" wrote in message
...

"mmc" wrote

Looks like a good boat Got any full shots?

Will post some. I love the layout of this boat, and it is a very
restorable boat that won't cost an arm and a leg. It has tons of level
walk around room, the kind that four people can go fishing in safely in
our lakes, and not get in each other's ways. It's a deep vee, and very
stable in the water. High gunnels. All the lighting works, came with a
good fish finder, 1.5 hp troll motor, 40 hp Merc, lots of stuff in the
storage cabinets.

It's a little ragged right now, but my list of honeydo projects is getting
shorter, and the boat is ratcheting up. I can do upholstery, so a couple
of new padded benches are in the pipeline. If I have a windfall, I may
even get a tilt replacement for the missing one. But even as is, it is a
decent boat for $1500. I could use it forever and not change a thing, and
it would be good. I'll take a couple of pics next time it's in the water.

Steve

Steve,
Sounds like a good boat! Not only will it get you on the water but you also
have something to mess with/improve on.
When the T/T crapped out on my Force 50, I did a lot of research and found
"leadersmarine2" on ebay and they had the unit for $659 which was $300 below
what my local shop wanted for the unit. I also fond some used ones on ebay
but shied away since it would/could be such a PITA to get my money back if
the thing didn't work.
I ended up going to a local used parts shop "Funtime Boats" on Merrit
Island, FL and got a used one for $350. I was comfortable with this since I
could see it myself and the owner hooked it to a battery and showed me that
it worked fine.

Boat questions, no shit!
 

"Gene" wrote in message
...
On Mon, 9 Nov 2009 08:52:29 -0500, "mmc" wrote:

The second looks to be paint oxidation. I'd wax it and see how that works
out. Oxidation on bare aluminum will seal it with a white powder and won't
harm anything.

That is one of the most entirely incorrect things I have ever read.

Damn, that's saying a lot!
Now that you mention it and I take time to reflect I remember seeing the
powder on pitted aluminum.
I'll flog myself after work ok?.